Wonder if I anyone has tried to 3D print a bushing sleeve to go around the bearing? Or depending on how thick that tape was someone with a lathe (me) could turn down a bushing to fit snuggly in there...
Yes, I bought a 3D printer right after this video - I’ve been trying a lot of designs (either small plastic inserts by Beezer on ED forums). You can definitely make it full metal - inner diameter is 6mm, outer (for a tight fit) of 12.9-12.8mm. The cavity for the force sensor is more of a oval shape so that was the main issue with my 3D printed parts. PLA was good for same results as tape minus the wear out, it eliminated the force sensor dead zone and effectively made the stick immobile. I tried designing in cavities and springs to return some of the movement whilst retaining no force sensor deadzone however those failed. I am currently testing a very promising one however, oval shape to snugly fit the cavity, slightly oversized and printed out of 96A TPU and I think this is the way. I will most likely make a follow up to check how the parts behave after some use.
@@Destarn Very cool. Interested to follow along on your progress. I recently 3D Printed a side stick mount for my Next Level Racing Pit. Gotta love 3D printing.
I just goot the orion 2 hotas and it seems they sent me a faulty base. They told me to open it up and reseat the cables and im noticing that the inside of my base looks nothing like urs.
They sell two different ORION 2 bases, regular one with cams and springs and the MFSSB (mine), they’re about 140 euro apart in price, MFSSB being more expensive
Sure you could, but that’s as low cost of a solution as you can get, I will probably be looking into 3D printing or getting a larger bearing down the line if the tape wears out fast enough to inconvenience me
Thanks for sharing the tip!
Wonder if I anyone has tried to 3D print a bushing sleeve to go around the bearing? Or depending on how thick that tape was someone with a lathe (me) could turn down a bushing to fit snuggly in there...
Yes, I bought a 3D printer right after this video - I’ve been trying a lot of designs (either small plastic inserts by Beezer on ED forums). You can definitely make it full metal - inner diameter is 6mm, outer (for a tight fit) of 12.9-12.8mm.
The cavity for the force sensor is more of a oval shape so that was the main issue with my 3D printed parts.
PLA was good for same results as tape minus the wear out, it eliminated the force sensor dead zone and effectively made the stick immobile.
I tried designing in cavities and springs to return some of the movement whilst retaining no force sensor deadzone however those failed.
I am currently testing a very promising one however, oval shape to snugly fit the cavity, slightly oversized and printed out of 96A TPU and I think this is the way. I will most likely make a follow up to check how the parts behave after some use.
@@Destarn Very cool. Interested to follow along on your progress. I recently 3D Printed a side stick mount for my Next Level Racing Pit. Gotta love 3D printing.
Yes I use 3d printed bushings and they work very well. Tried FDM printed ones but in the end as you need quite thin wall thikness printed in SLA
i just got this stick and I hate the idea of having to take a base apart to modify it because Winwing had poor design choice
Yeah it’s a shame, though I can say it’s at least very nice to use now
I just goot the orion 2 hotas and it seems they sent me a faulty base. They told me to open it up and reseat the cables and im noticing that the inside of my base looks nothing like urs.
They sell two different ORION 2 bases, regular one with cams and springs and the MFSSB (mine), they’re about 140 euro apart in price, MFSSB being more expensive
Can you not just measure the taped bearing an get a bearing that size?
Sure you could, but that’s as low cost of a solution as you can get, I will probably be looking into 3D printing or getting a larger bearing down the line if the tape wears out fast enough to inconvenience me
Feet cam next time pls, I mean pedal cam
Blyat