Can someone please explain to me the benefit of adding solder to a crimp joint? A gas-tight crimp connection is the best mechanical and electrical connection possible. So what does solder bring to the connection?!
The benefit is that you don't have to have the correct crimp tool. And you don't have to worry that your incorrect crimp might result in the wire coming loose. EDIT: Apparently, empirical testing suggests that these terminals have lower resistance when soldered: ua-cam.com/video/TSzUA0T1YD4/v-deo.html The disadvantage of using solder is that your terminals have a higher resistance, and your wires are more brittle since you have solder wicking up into the wire. I have a cheap hydraulic crimper which is OK. You have to use the right dies, which gets a bit tedious. I also have a hammer crimper which I've only used once or twice. I think I may go back to trying it again. The crimps that it produces don't look at pretty. But, it doesn't require choosing exactly the correct size die. Choosing the correct die sounds easy, but it's not as easy as it sounds. The cheap crimper I have is rated in mm2. My wire is rated in AWG. And I often use ultra-flexible cable, which is actually a bit physically larger at the same AWG. And, crimp terminals can have different wall thicknesses. So, really, if you want to be correct you should be matching your dies and crimp terminals to be from the same manufacturer. Which gets $$$. Indentation crimpers have a range of terminal sizes they work with, so, less concern about precision.
@unclefakbloke687 yes a mechanical crimp if done right, is a a cold weld. The metal you are crimping and the cable strands become one solid metal object, I'm sure you seen pictures. If you're doing this for a hobby on any regular basis anyone worth their salt has a good quality crimper on hand. Tools for the job! 101 stuff!
appreciate the video, i just picked up a pair and a 300amp breaker for my 12.8v 300ah lifepo battery that stays in my vehicle, that feeds a 3.5kw psw inverter, that powers a microwave and small portable freezer/fridge, since i work on the road. i want to be able to quickly disconnect the battery and bring it into the house to charge in the winter. summer time charging is done by a small solar panel. i wont be soldering mine, i will be using a hand held hydrolic press. it smashes the metal strands into one chunk of copper
I know this is an older video but why would my winch work intermittently when powered by my Anderson quick disconnect? Quick disconnect comes from the battery out to the back of the truck. 12k harbor freight winch
Check for any fouling where the terminals make contact. They generally clean themselves fairly well, but if frequently connected/disconnected under load it wouldn't hurt to clean them and see if that helps.
you can go over current from time to time, depends on the application. if its going to be used all the time, i would opt for bigger cables. a little bit of loss here and there is no big deal, but if you try to push 300amps through a cable rated for 175, their will be huge losses in the form of heat and could even lead to a fire.
I purchased the Anderson 175 amp connectors as they looked like yours. (ooooops!). So now I have my truck running front and rear with AWG 1/0 Copper welding cable off aux battery to run my HF Apex 12,000 winch and also a plug-in 3,500Watt 12VDC to 120VAC inverter (run them separately). My winch seems to work OK. Do I need to cut off my 175 amp Andersons and replace them with the much larger 350 amp Andersons like you have demonstrated here??
Your winch should have a chart in the manual that shows max power draw under load. The max ampacity of both cable and connectors needs to meet or exceed the max amp draw of the winch.
@@christianjensen3182 Thank you for the reply as that makes a ton of sense (pun intended). How did you determine the circuit breaker is 150amp? That would mean all the folks using larger than 175amp connectors are wasting their money and I just got lucky. Thanks again as I am out of my wheelhouse with electrical stuff.
Where can i buy the 350 amp ones ? I am from europe and really need a set for making my amplifier and subs a quick disconnect type deal or do you reckon the smaller version would be fine ?
You'll have to do the math on your particular application and figure out which type of connectors and cable gauge are required: there's no way to safely skip that. I usually get mine off eBay, and personally always buy the genuine Anderson housings to make sure they will always mate without issues.
@@jordivandermeiren4043 Right but the connector you put on the ends of the wires has an amperage rating, so it's not just the cable gauge that matters but also not exceeding the rating of the connector metal. Just take the max amps you'll need and get the connectors and housings the next closest size up. If you want to buy from Powerwerx (I'm not affiliated but have used them) they will help you find the right type.
@@jordivandermeiren4043 It all depends on the cable size. The connector is rated upto the max amps the cable can handle for the max size that fits into that connector. Using it on an audio system, you won't be drawing the power 100% of the time, so you can get by with burst loading the connector. If you look at the pulse current graph you can see how long and what size cable it can handle. Note that a 350 connector cannot handle 350amps if you use something smaller than 350mcm cable. www.nooutage.com/pdf/Andeerson-SB350.pdf
@@dr.leespoorlifechoices1701 I was watching a video from 3M on cable splicing. They had specific techniques for how to handle electrical tape. If I recall - keeping it under tension while wrapping it, and overlapping 50% was what they said to do. I've been much happier with my electrical tape when I stretch it while applying it.
Where did you get your receiver hitch winch mount? I thought I was going to have to make that myself until I saw yours. Great information and presentation!
I will suggest everyone place this one with your front bumper is more worth than . My case my Nissan Micra stuck battery dead nothing open I tried to breached in but fail if I have by pass I just go .
Thank you for the video but I'll add my 2 cents. First slow down, you are speaking so fast and moving the camera around like you are in a race. Chill man! Next up, the age old argument of soldering vs crimping. Personally I would say soldering this way is the WRONG way to go about such connections especially if you push a lot of amps and create a lot of heat, heat impacts solder... Soldering them in is personally for me the lazy man's way of doing it and/or cheap way of doing it. If you have a high quality set of crimpers for heavy gauge wire that will cold weld the connector and the copper wire into one peice. I'm sure you've seen people who have cut down a properly crimped connector. It looks like a solid block of metal. Plus on anderson's you are doing 2 crimps so that thing isn't going anywhere! Now if you don't own a good crimper ok I guess, but at LEAST clean up the wires, and some high quality heat shrink around the exposed metal post soldering. I don't belive in the argument of "well I may screw up the crimp connection since its not a normal ring terminal. Ok lets say you do screw up. Cut it off, buy another connector for a whopping few bucks and do it again. Its not hard. Temco crimpers are awsome, they are not that expensive, can handle a wide range of wire sizes and always produce a perfect cold weld you'll never pull off with your hands if done correctly. Resistance, oh people love their resistance. If you are pushing serious amperage like this whatever the delta in resistance is between soldering and proper crimping will be minimal and make no difference. Your battery life wont be impacted by such a small thing, other factors in your DIY build likely would cause more resistance issues. Whatever you all choose be safe and don't cut corners. This stuff is usually bulletproof but if something does go wrong you don't want it being something dumb that you had the ability to avoid! Keep DIYing!!!
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Can someone please explain to me the benefit of adding solder to a crimp joint?
A gas-tight crimp connection is the best mechanical and electrical connection possible. So what does solder bring to the connection?!
The benefit is that you don't have to have the correct crimp tool. And you don't have to worry that your incorrect crimp might result in the wire coming loose.
EDIT: Apparently, empirical testing suggests that these terminals have lower resistance when soldered: ua-cam.com/video/TSzUA0T1YD4/v-deo.html
The disadvantage of using solder is that your terminals have a higher resistance, and your wires are more brittle since you have solder wicking up into the wire.
I have a cheap hydraulic crimper which is OK. You have to use the right dies, which gets a bit tedious.
I also have a hammer crimper which I've only used once or twice. I think I may go back to trying it again. The crimps that it produces don't look at pretty. But, it doesn't require choosing exactly the correct size die.
Choosing the correct die sounds easy, but it's not as easy as it sounds. The cheap crimper I have is rated in mm2. My wire is rated in AWG. And I often use ultra-flexible cable, which is actually a bit physically larger at the same AWG. And, crimp terminals can have different wall thicknesses. So, really, if you want to be correct you should be matching your dies and crimp terminals to be from the same manufacturer. Which gets $$$. Indentation crimpers have a range of terminal sizes they work with, so, less concern about precision.
@unclefakbloke687 yes a mechanical crimp if done right, is a a cold weld. The metal you are crimping and the cable strands become one solid metal object, I'm sure you seen pictures. If you're doing this for a hobby on any regular basis anyone worth their salt has a good quality crimper on hand. Tools for the job! 101 stuff!
appreciate the video, i just picked up a pair and a 300amp breaker for my 12.8v 300ah lifepo battery that stays in my vehicle, that feeds a 3.5kw psw inverter, that powers a microwave and small portable freezer/fridge, since i work on the road. i want to be able to quickly disconnect the battery and bring it into the house to charge in the winter. summer time charging is done by a small solar panel.
i wont be soldering mine, i will be using a hand held hydrolic press. it smashes the metal strands into one chunk of copper
You should buy crimping tool for 350amp connector and heatshrink tube with glue. They are not meant to be soldered.
I know this is an older video but why would my winch work intermittently when powered by my Anderson quick disconnect? Quick disconnect comes from the battery out to the back of the truck. 12k harbor freight winch
Check for any fouling where the terminals make contact. They generally clean themselves fairly well, but if frequently connected/disconnected under load it wouldn't hurt to clean them and see if that helps.
Is the 175 amps enough for a jump cable?
you can go over current from time to time, depends on the application. if its going to be used all the time, i would opt for bigger cables. a little bit of loss here and there is no big deal, but if you try to push 300amps through a cable rated for 175, their will be huge losses in the form of heat and could even lead to a fire.
I purchased the Anderson 175 amp connectors as they looked like yours. (ooooops!). So now I have my truck running front and rear with AWG 1/0 Copper welding cable off aux battery to run my HF Apex 12,000 winch and also a plug-in 3,500Watt 12VDC to 120VAC inverter (run them separately). My winch seems to work OK. Do I need to cut off my 175 amp Andersons and replace them with the much larger 350 amp Andersons like you have demonstrated here??
Your winch should have a chart in the manual that shows max power draw under load. The max ampacity of both cable and connectors needs to meet or exceed the max amp draw of the winch.
The HF 12,000lb badlands winch comes with a 150amp circuit breaker on the positive lead, so I guess that would be the maximum current draw.
@@christianjensen3182 Thank you for the reply as that makes a ton of sense (pun intended). How did you determine the circuit breaker is 150amp? That would mean all the folks using larger than 175amp connectors are wasting their money and I just got lucky. Thanks again as I am out of my wheelhouse with electrical stuff.
Where can i buy the 350 amp ones ? I am from europe and really need a set for making my amplifier and subs a quick disconnect type deal or do you reckon the smaller version would be fine ?
You'll have to do the math on your particular application and figure out which type of connectors and cable gauge are required: there's no way to safely skip that. I usually get mine off eBay, and personally always buy the genuine Anderson housings to make sure they will always mate without issues.
@@dr.leespoorlifechoices1701 cable comes in the kit i bought so that's no problem i just need to know how big of a cable in could fit in the housing.
@@jordivandermeiren4043 Right but the connector you put on the ends of the wires has an amperage rating, so it's not just the cable gauge that matters but also not exceeding the rating of the connector metal. Just take the max amps you'll need and get the connectors and housings the next closest size up. If you want to buy from Powerwerx (I'm not affiliated but have used them) they will help you find the right type.
@@dr.leespoorlifechoices1701 all right thank you
@@jordivandermeiren4043 It all depends on the cable size. The connector is rated upto the max amps the cable can handle for the max size that fits into that connector. Using it on an audio system, you won't be drawing the power 100% of the time, so you can get by with burst loading the connector. If you look at the pulse current graph you can see how long and what size cable it can handle. Note that a 350 connector cannot handle 350amps if you use something smaller than 350mcm cable. www.nooutage.com/pdf/Andeerson-SB350.pdf
7:00 you could also rtv or heat shrink that area.
That's a great idea -- will have to try that on the next ones.
@@dr.leespoorlifechoices1701 I was watching a video from 3M on cable splicing. They had specific techniques for how to handle electrical tape. If I recall - keeping it under tension while wrapping it, and overlapping 50% was what they said to do. I've been much happier with my electrical tape when I stretch it while applying it.
Where did you get your receiver hitch winch mount? I thought I was going to have to make that myself until I saw yours. Great information and presentation!
Thanks! The hitch witch mount is also from Harbor Freight. Nothing special.
@@dr.leespoorlifechoices1701 Thank you!
I will suggest everyone place this one with your front bumper is more worth than . My case my Nissan Micra stuck battery dead nothing open I tried to breached in but fail if I have by pass I just go .
You should have shrink wrapped the ends. Would have looked way better and professional.
I saw the channel name and have a feeling he is like me we shall see I have made TONS of bad life choices but im not a doctor
Got it.
Thank you for the video but I'll add my 2 cents. First slow down, you are speaking so fast and moving the camera around like you are in a race. Chill man!
Next up, the age old argument of soldering vs crimping. Personally I would say soldering this way is the WRONG way to go about such connections especially if you push a lot of amps and create a lot of heat, heat impacts solder...
Soldering them in is personally for me the lazy man's way of doing it and/or cheap way of doing it. If you have a high quality set of crimpers for heavy gauge wire that will cold weld the connector and the copper wire into one peice. I'm sure you've seen people who have cut down a properly crimped connector. It looks like a solid block of metal. Plus on anderson's you are doing 2 crimps so that thing isn't going anywhere! Now if you don't own a good crimper ok I guess, but at LEAST clean up the wires, and some high quality heat shrink around the exposed metal post soldering.
I don't belive in the argument of "well I may screw up the crimp connection since its not a normal ring terminal. Ok lets say you do screw up. Cut it off, buy another connector for a whopping few bucks and do it again. Its not hard. Temco crimpers are awsome, they are not that expensive, can handle a wide range of wire sizes and always produce a perfect cold weld you'll never pull off with your hands if done correctly.
Resistance, oh people love their resistance. If you are pushing serious amperage like this whatever the delta in resistance is between soldering and proper crimping will be minimal and make no difference. Your battery life wont be impacted by such a small thing, other factors in your DIY build likely would cause more resistance issues.
Whatever you all choose be safe and don't cut corners. This stuff is usually bulletproof but if something does go wrong you don't want it being something dumb that you had the ability to avoid!
Keep DIYing!!!
the 350 amp are overkill, they are more designed for electric forklifts
No this is not correct