96 Yukon (88-98 OBS Chevy GMC) - Evaporator & Heater WITHOUT dash removal
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- Опубліковано 21 січ 2022
- I want to give a shout and a lot of credit to the UA-camr with the 3-minute video showing that this was possible in the first place. I just wanted to make a longer video explaining what I did and why I did it and exactly what you need to get to to be able to pull the evaporator coil and the heater core on these older trucks. the next generation after this there was a workaround where you
could basically cut an access panel that you had to glue back together. this is cleaner but a little more work on these older ones.
WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE FIREWALL THERE ARE TWO 10 MM BOLTS WITH SILICONE ON THEM. UNDO THOSE SO THAT THE BOX CAN MOVE AROUND A LITTLE BIT FREELY. ALSO WHEN LOOKING ABOVE THE BOX THROUGH THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT TAKE OUT THE TWO 7 MM BOLTS THAT HOLDS THE RELAYS AND LOOSEN THE 10-MM BOLTS ON THE FIREWALL TO ALLOW THAT TOP OF THE BOX TO MOVE AROUND A BIT. I WILL JUST PREPARE YOU GUYS, IF I START GETTING THE COVER OUT WAS DIFFICULT, GETTING IT BACK IN IS A REAL PATIENT TESTER.
Lmao finally someone actually made a video showing where that last rear screw is and HOW they actually did it, instead of just saying it’s possible and showing absolutely nothing lol. Thanks man! I knew I was missing that back screw but didn’t even know where to feel around for it.
I did it an easy way I cut the front of box as they show in later years on my 99 Tahoe the only extra thing you need to cut is the knee pipe behind glove box then once it was done I used 2 pipe connectors and put my the knee pipe back together whole removal and install took just over an hour plus I sealed the plastic cover I cut out with flex seal tape and spray then covered with black gorilla tape looks and works great I wish UA-cam would let me add pictures to the comments
Yep. I did the dash drop on my 2000 Silverado. Broken plastic pieces. Worn out foam insulation. I hope this video is a blessing to future d-I-yers.
I been 3 years now without A/C or Heat in my OBS C3500 because for the Love of..... I cannot get the blasted evap duct work to go back in without breaking that duct panel! Part of it has to slide in between the evaporator and the firewall, but I cannot get it to go that far back without the panel catching on the evap fins and then breaking the plastic panel if I try to force it. What the heck gives???? I'd pay good money to see a video on UA-cam showing a process to get this lower A/C duct panel back in without screwing it up! Arghhhhh!
I'm about to tackle this myself on my '99 Tahoe. After removing the cover, and disconnecting the lines, etc. how difficult was it to actually get the core out? Thanks for this video - makes it WAY less intidimating, and I'm an experienced DIY mechanic (shout out to EricTheCarGuy and ChrisFix) I've done TONS of difficult, advanced work on all of my vehicles. Videos like this are why I've saved thousands of dollars in auto repair.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the correct way to do this is to take the dash out. The reason why is the motors on the mixer doors are notorious for failing. I wouldn't do this job with replacing those as well. My point is clearly this will get the system running, but if the mixer doors fail in a month or two you are right back to square one. If the air is not flowing you may already have a mixer door failure.
Advance to 11 to avoid the maddening repetition
You’ve done enough bro. I told you not to touch the dryer but you didn’t listen
I kinda hope the pre 95 version is the same, you look at the dash wrong and a giant crack will appear
respectfully after doing this job i don’t recommend replacing evaporator core this way !!!!!! my plenum broke in the same exact places and i don’t believe it’s from being old and brittle! i think it’s because to get the plenum out those areas will most likely snap and if you try to JB weld it will only break again trying to get it back in at least on the drivers side area that broke ….on the drivers side of plenum that broke had to stay out ! and around the drain port on passenger side i had to JB weld and it held but i had to shave the outside part of the seal channel right next to the drivers side of the drain port going up for it to slide up and mate and screw holes to align !
SA TX here. 99 suburban. Haven’t had ac in this truck in 4 years and it’s my work truck. Just did this today. Took me between 20-30 minutes to get it out. And I have big ass hands with sausage fingers…so no big deal. Now putting it back in should be as easy … right. Same issue you had. My drier fitting were seized up and I cracked the evaporator core trying to loosen them so can O worms opened. I’ve got everything new here except for the evaporator core so I’ll have a completely new AC system when I’m done 👍. Great video btw. It helped with finding all the screws.
Works well coming out but really sucks putting it back together ended up removing most of the firewall insulation behind the box which made it easier to reinstall plus having a harbor freight cheap inspection camera really helped seeing the back hidden screws but again thanks for making this video
Well ... Thx for this video. Just finished the R&R of AC Evap and Heater Core on my 1999 Tahoe 4x4.
I have a1996 k1500 Z71, locked rotor compressor, decided to replace it all, thank you for showing the screw locations, it helped tremendously! Your video came up first, and had the information that I needed Thanks again!
THANK YOU! I watched 2 others before yours and they showed the dash drop. So, again, thank you for this video, and the advice about how to get to the last screw helped a lot.
HA HA UA-cam videos always make it look easy. I had the same tbl with the accumulator twisted that f'n thing right off. I managed to get all the screws out except one on the left next to the firewall/padding, by the inside top of the blend door. drove the 1/4 inch driver socket into the padding and lost the socket. Had to cut into it and got lucky with my finger and gravity to get it back. Spent 8 hour on that one screw so far, got to get it out! It definitely will not go back in. Once I get it apart I will be able to get the evaporator out and replaced. Yes you could have been more concise and slower on the 7 screw locations, but very happy you showed it could be done and also thanks to the 3 minute UA-camr.
Hey Brother, thanks for the great video! I just did this on my 99 Suburban K2500 7.4L. You were right about that last bolt up against the firewall being a pain to remove. I also had to cut the top connection to the dryer to get it out. Getting the evaporator out wasn't so bad nor was getting the new one in place. Getting the cover back in place was harder, and I cracked the housing in the process, not a big crack. Once that was in place putting in the new heater core and closing it up was a cinch. This process was so much better than removing the dash would have been. Doubt my rig would have been driveable after if I'd I went that route. Side note, I am replacing the interior of my rig, so had removed the carpet, seats, and center console before attempting this. Moved the rear floor air vent out of the way, and all this made getting to that last bolt easier.
wow this was a great help thank you very much! Definitely hard to put back screws back in so for the upper piece that holds the evaporator up and the heater core hangs from, I just a screw through the back wall of the upper piece and into the firewall. The lower piece just closes it all in and nothing is really pushing down on it so not having the back screws doesn't seem like much of an issue. The switches I used for my 97 c1500 extended cab are all santech. The pressure switch mounted on a/c manifold was MT0790. The switch mounted in back of compressor was MT0447. The switch mounted on dryer was MT0205. As of yesterday afternoon I got it charged and it's working well, 55degree coming out of the vent on a 90 degree day without being in max air.
TY…. Replacing evaporator on a 1997 K1500 Z71. Watched this video. Taping two extensions with electrical tape and using the goove in the plastic to find the back bolt resulted in getting it out on my first try. Thanks again!!
Did my 98 Silverado evaporator. Just partially removed the dash, took the entire heater/AC box out. Cleaned and replaced everything, including the actuators, reinstalled everything in just under 3 hrs.