How to Build a Rain Barrel (v2) -- An Elegant Solution?
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- I finally made time to install my first rain barrel. I watched many other videos on UA-cam for ideas and this is the solution I came up with to meet my needs.
This uses a standard 55 gallon plastic barrel that I bought from a local car wash for $10. There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding the threads for the bungs on these barrels. I discovered that not all barrels are created equal. This barrel has one bung which uses a standard 2-inch NPT threads; however, the other bung uses a very coarse 2-inch thread. I picked up other barrels from a soda plant and both bungs on these use the coarse 2-inch thread, no NPT. I wonder if there is a barrel where both bungs are 2" NPT?
If anyone is interested in building something similar and you can not identify all of the components, let me know and I can put up a parts illustration.
As a bonus, starting at 8:08 is a brief demonstration of my new Hitachi CC14SFS 14-Inch 15-Amp Portable Chop Saw being used to cut 3" PVC pipe.
P.S. Thanks to WranglerStar, who through his series of wonderful videos, encouraged me to come out of the closet and document some of my projects.
my setup is similar. despite 3/4 overflow it works. Least amount of barrel damage and also thismaximizes the amount the 55 gallon barrels hold. Sistering barrels I use the hose bib to hose bib with a Y hose adapter; this also give your more pressure coming out. When sistering barrels leave a elevated breather vent in non drain overflow barrel.
James Campbell James, could you provide a picture or more detail about how you use two barrels? I'm in the process of designing mine and I want to limit the barrel damage and maximize the quantity.
Tom Petersen sure; just got them hooked up - I'll take some pictures this weekend.
Thank you. I just built this and it work amazing. I am going to make my own video to also share.
FYI: The bung with the course thread is called a Buttress thread. You can find PVC thread adapters, Drum Buttress x 2" FPT, fairly easy.
To gain access to the inside of the barrel all you need to do is look down from the top of the barrel at its narrowest point, approx 2"" and cut around the barrel using a jig or fret saw, clean up the edges with a file then flip over the lid and it will slot nicely onto the rim, drill 3 holes then put either screws or galvanised nails in for easy removal, also the top can be removed for easy cleaning, I have 11 barrels fed by 2 downpipes and link them approx 3" from the top using garden hose, most houses in the UK have water meters and it's a good way to save money, thanks for the video....
John Gatland q
Use a "t" fitting on the intake, and your overflow will be as large as your intake. And if you add more barrels you can use that to connect to it, and it will also act as a vent for the air displacement.
Great looking work ! That first 180 degree turn off the down spout would be a great clean-out,or first dirt trap
Those threads you can't match are called "buttress threads" I believe. Hit some water tote supply sites and you can get a fitting that will match and allow you to screw in standard pvc pipe to it.. Also, get a bulkhead fitting that has inside threads on the nut, use a string to drop down the threaded part to the drain hole, pull the threads through and tighten the nut on the outside and you won't need silicone, which will leach chemicals in the water if in contact long enough.
For the coarse threads on those bungs i just used the same 2" fine threaded adapter as the other and just cross threaded it using a large sized channel lock pliers set to crank it down tight. It can be a bit of a pain to get them started, and they won't sit square like the other, but the top of the barrels are flexible enough that you can run a 2" pipe to the next barrel or the over flow on the end barrel. I've done this on all 5 barrels on my array and have had no problems with any leaking from any of them. You'll find that having them connected with 2" or larger will totally speed up the fill time compared to 3/4" or 1", especially on the run from the diverter to the first barrels inlet. On my 2 barrel array which has 2" pipe from diverter to inlet, it will take less than an hour to fill both barrels. Originally i had a 1" tube there and it would take all day to fill them, if we got enough rain that is. San Diego doesn't get that much, so use the water to wash our vehicles. I just have a inline water pump on a 100 foot hose, and its on a remote controlled switch so i can turn on/off as needed and still get the pressure i need.
hope this helps.
The course thread in the barrel is called Buttress thread.....2" buttress most 55 gal. barrels
A Very very good job done , hats off to you m8..
You can use a "t" fitting like you have on the first flush diverter and put it on the inlet for your overflow, which will give you a larger overflow outlet.
That’s what I would do. No need to worry about the second bung adapter. It would also allow more barrels to be added to the system. Each new barrel connecting to the overflow side of the tee on the previous barrel’s inlet.
What is that unsettling constant water noise? Good clear depiction of the capture system.
I like the look of it and it does look very nice. However, if you had the pipe connection above the drum, you wouldn't need so many additional connections just so water can go inside the drum.
I'd love to get an overall update about how all this worked out. I've got access to my barrels via a simple hinged hatch I cut and rigged in the top. I guess that wouldn't really work for you since your overflow depends on an airtight system.
Thank You.
Algae will grow in the white barrel if you don't paint them.
I wonder if we paint them white if itll still grow? Anyone try that yet? Does the white paint still allow sunlight in?
I had the same type barrel but I found the light that penetrates the barrel will grow algae in no time! Without a wide hatch on the top you have no effective way to clean out the barrel. Solution is to paint the barrel with a flat black paint and add a top hatch. But before you do run a strip of 1" painters tape from the top to the bottom on the side that doesn't get direct sunlight. After it's painted remove the tape and now you have a sight window to check the water level in the tank!
Just made my own system with solar powered pump. Let me know your thoughts on the overview video I just posted!
That tread on the course side is S56x4 there is adapters on eBay
What is the reason for making the 2" takeoff so low
I didn't hear you mention what happens to the debris in the gutter that floats?
nice one. sorry for ignorance, so the main downpipe from the roof is capped at bottom and collects the debris. then clean water rises to the barrel ?
gazza listermint ...It suppose to be a "first flush system". It's a little more than just capping the end. Look it up on UA-cam. There's many diy but I found it cheaper and easier to just by the system.
KCy cheers will do. !
Cool!
Nice video.
Is that a Lionel caboose in the background of the chop saw section of your video?
Bulkhead isn't hard to put in those would be better
My version of installing a bulk head fitting (please note it will work on sealed barrels as long as the fitting will fit through the hole): ua-cam.com/video/N3_eK5tHyqA/v-deo.html
You're gonna have an algae problem with a white barrel.
uniseals nuff said
For bung adapters
www.usplastic.com/mobile/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24467&catid=543