At last! - my teenage daughter has been struggling with saddle discomfort for months and we've invested hundreds of $ on saddles. This video is the first I've seen that explains the issues - well done and Thank you for making this!
I have been searching for detail information on saddle and hand discomfort for some time. This is by far the best explanation I have seen! Excellent job! Your video is extremely helpful. I will continue to watch your other videos on this subject to help me determine how to resolve my issues. Thanks again.
Thanks for the tips. Today I adjusted my handlebars because I’ve been sliding down the seat and having serious butt pain. Raising the bars helped a lot. A simple idea that was worth a lot for me.
This is a good generalized video. That said its not necessarily useful for people like myself who need to ride in a more upright position because of age-related neck or upper back issues. Because I am more upright with an endurance geometry bike and raised handlebars, I finally discovered that tilting the seat back in the same direction as my body worked wonders. I discovered this after being through 2 different bike fits and swapping out several saddles. It wasn't the saddles, it was the saddle angle which had to be set about 5 degrees off of level. .
Finally got into road cycling and been fighting to adjust. Went to flat pedals, tried rotating bars slightly, saddle positions/heights. After watching a few of your videos and some others I decided before buying a new saddle I needed to invest in a new stem. Stock my bike had a 140mm, so I dropped down to a 110. High speed seems unaffected, handling is much more stable when riding around at slower speeds as it's much more maneuverable.... BUT!!!!!! my butt... I'm now sitting back on the saddle more, like I should. So I think my saddle is fine. I was sliding off the front of it before, I'd get pain just forward of my sit bones where I'd normally get sore after long days on my mtb, pressure on my hands was killing me and I was blaming my gloves and bar tape, and my neck and shoulders would hurt so bad after rides 2 hours or more that I'd have to take almost a week off the road bike. Think I need a chiropractor to get my neck/shoulders corrected (after this covid blows over) but I can function now, and all because of a stem length change. Thanks for putting out such thorough and well thought out content.
I want to say that point 4 about foot problems is spot on. I've been plagued by foot numbness for a long time. I ended up solving it because I loaned my bike to a buddy's brother for one ride when he came in from out of town. We adjusted the saddle to fit him (raised it) and when he brought it back, I attempted to get it back to my normal setting. I ended up missing by about 2mm. It was a bit higher and BAM, foot trouble over! It made it possible to enjoy riding again. So my advice is tweak by 1 to 2mm until it goes away. This works.
#5: I would also recommend, a lot of seat problems are caused due to a fungus like that of athletes foot. Using a good anti fungal cream every couple days will stop that. Also keeping a 5 gallon bucket near the shower to rinse the shorts off at least every two rides will reduce the fungal build ups and allowing the water to sit for a day before rinsing your shorts will reduce the fabric damage of your shorts due to the chlorine in the water. #6. Fit of the shoe. Getting your foot positioned on the pedal has less to do with the length of your foot as it does to the arch position of the foot. Take for example: Your foot has a length of a size 45. So you buy a 45 and it feels tight and you find you get numb toes and your body just isn't comfortable on the bike because you look down and the ball of your foot is way behind the center of the axle of the peddle. You go in to a local SHOE STORE and ask them to measure the arch of your foot. The sales person should automatically know that you are being very specific as to the fit for your foot. They will probably pay more attention to you. So, let's say you have a 45 (10) measure length and you're arch is a 48 (13). All that means is you're like most men (women are usually the same (7 and 7) which means you have shorter toes in relation to the arch of your foot Get a shoe for a 48. It will make it wider in the front and from my experience, most to not all, come in only a C width. This will open the front up stopping the numb toes and it will the ball of you foot is exactly over the center of the axle of the pedal. Note: The number on the box of the shoes DOES NOT TELL YOU THE LENGTH. It tells you where the arch position is built IN to the shoe. Thus the ball of your foot will be over the axle of the pedal correctly. Do not listen to anyone telling you that a shoe needs to be tight or it will stretch and get better. The shoe should feel good enough for you to wear everywhere (except if you have road shoes where the cleats impede the gate).
In regards to no. 5 I never understood the popularity of padded shorts or inlays, they will start to stink at some point no matter what. I prefer the padding to be part of the saddle, much easier to clean that surface.
I was sitting too far forward on the saddle so I moved it all the way forward and now I sit on it perfectly but I still get super sore after anything over 10 miles so I bought a new saddle
@@TONOCLAY listening to all these advices on the web you will spend all kinds of money trying to solve the impossible. I have tried everything in the book, so let's be honest here for once, there is no such a thing as comfort in biking. Everyone's anatomy is different. Some will sore up at 10 miles, others much more than that. Some people will have saddle discomfort no matter what they do! There is nothing comfortable about riding a bike. Let's admit a fact for once.
I do disagree with some things he says, but in general, he's right on the money. Lots of incorrect bike fit info on the internet. One important factor that's not mentioned (crank length) get this wrong for your limb lengths & hip mobility & no saddle or position can be made to fit you comfortably ... start with shoes / pedals / cleat position, then work on saddle height / position / Tilt ... 40 yrs & many thousands of miles of racing / setting up my bikes & other riders.
My saddle tilt before is 0 degrees.. Made me had to stretched my arms to reach the hood.. I’ve changed my saddle tilt nose down little bit, and its made me comfort riding the bike and get easily on aero position..
Well if I have to chose between buying a new saddle or adopting a grandpa position on the bike I'll go for the new saddle. Sure, saddle discomfort can be solved by changing the fit. But lets face it, if you have a race bike you want to go fast. Which means you want to have a somewhat aero position, and then you will have to have a long + low reach and a bit of a forward angle on the saddle. A saddle with a grippy surface will stop you sliding about, a saddle with a hole in the nose will reduce numbness and perineum pressure, a proper positioning of the bars and grips will eliminate hand numbness, and training core strength will also help a lot for all of these.
Thank you. It was very informative. After I saw this video some week ago. I dropped my saddle about a cm and moved also aft too by a cm, got more comfortable, then I dropped it another 4 mm and I got faster and I can now ride while holding from hoods too.. And also I can ride hands off from handlebar now.. Don't get tired so much after long ride also. Most comfortable I feel now when I'm on drops. I still feel like I need to push my own rear end back to the rear end of saddle time to time.. Seems I'm sliding forward.. But I'm sure I will figure out what causes it by my own.. someday. Currently I did not have saddle discomfort, but I always felt that the reach is too far.. It was confusing, because when I bought the bike. I bought one size smaller than sizechart recommended. But I made a lot of research to figure out how long top-tube and/or reach would fit me. I believe I got correct size. But one thing that bugged me, did not make any sense, but was still throwing some doubts to me. Was that some websites said that wen between 2 sizes: measure ape-index. And if it's positive: take the bigger frame. I do have positive ape index, but I did not follow that advice, because it did not make sense. The bigger frame would have also longer head tube - higher stack. Initially I had set saddle according of equations and heels on pedal method and so on.. Also had measured knee and whatever angles.. But I don't have indoor trainer, so I just dropped chain. Sat on bike while leaning against wall.. aligned my rear part on saddle to a position where I usually sit on while riding and filmed from side.. with as long lens as I could use in my small space, then measured the angles with protractor against computer screen... Seems I could not do it well like that, since it was not good. I remember I lowered it last autumn about a cm or even 1.5. too. That time I moved it partially because of saddle discomfort.. Felt like pinching pain under perineum.. like someone pulling from hairs there, or something similar pinching. Thought that it's the fault of bike pants. But by fluke I discovered it was because of too high saddle.. I think all saddles are designed to be horizontal. If I set nose even little downwards I may get numbness.. Even though It does not look like I'm sliding too much forward that way. When I was kid I liked to tilt nose upward. I guess, I was just stupid.. or maybe I was a sado masochist. It was definitely not too comfortable to ride like that, but I still set it that way. I always had it also so high as possible, and also moved it as far aft too I think, because I thought that this way I can use more muscles more efficiently. Also calf muscles and hand muscles. But I don't say that I did wrong. It was still worth of trying.. It has been interesting path to travel. To experience and learn different things. But it's also interesting to learn from others, even if they are smarter than I am. It's still pleasant to get know more. ;D This was one of the best video tutorial about bikefiting that I have seen. Now I just have to figure out what is the things that you kept to yourself and did not mention here. And then I will be as smart as you are and even surpass you in my big greatness. :P
great informative video. i didn't know a saddle too low could cause all these issues. i thought a low saddle just made the pedal stroke inefficient. didn't think it could cause these issues. i might have to raise my saddle
this one really outlines my problems and give advice on how to solve them! was searching for this info for a long time and never found, but thanks to bikefit lessons now I know what's wrong with my toes.
So saddle might be too high or low. Handlebars might be too high or low. Reach might be too much or too little. So in other words...it could be anything! Thanks for that brilliant advice
Another great video - lots of little bits of information that I have seen elsewhere all together in one place. I will be experimenting over the next few weeks, mainly with bar height and reach.
Wow!! It makes sense now! Your videos are so much helpful. I’ve suscribe thank you so much! I have a question where do you get your biking shorts from? Or what website you use to buy new biking shorts
Thank you. Good information especially regarding toe numbness and tingling. Any info regarding cramp in leg muscles would be spot on. Again Good video.
Wow you are here for me I'm not sure how I found u but you are my answer to my problems of riding fantastic video, thank you my rides will be more enjoyable from here on out 🐸 Dean
I need to buy my first Chamois because I went cycling and my bum was destroyed for 3 days. Any advice on which Chamois has the most cushion/protection?
i just got my fixed gear bike and the bikeshop set the saddle height lower as I requested. However my hands hurts so bad when I ride, it seems all my weight are going into my hands. Since hands are also handles balancing and steering it hurts even riding 15-30mins. I set the saddle all the way down and now I ride more comfortably. Since I ride fixed gear my legs are doing all the work in pedals then backpedaling however it's now easier and I enjoy riding my bike.
All good points. UCI now allows higher variance in saddle angle. Pros are now, per a recent GCN video, 'slamming' their saddle. My concern, people will want to emulate this. Perhaps it would be a good future video topic, especially as issues like poor bike handling, hand/wrist problems start to show-up in the pro peloton.
Great info. From another source I've just been advised to raise my saddle 1cm and bring my cleats 5mm nearer my heel. Right now I'm experiencing some 'saddle' issues so hopefully these things will fix it.
Thank you! I'm glad to report that the small changes made (as outlined previously) have worked very well and I did a 120km ride last week without saddle issues bothering me at all. I also now think that some of my 'saddle area issues' may be more related to the pad/chamois in my shorts rather than the saddle per se.
I am building a Trek Boone cx bike after I sold my Emonda due to a broken C5&6 vertebrae fracture. on my current Crockett build I get a little numbness in the hands on the thumb side. 54 cm frame with a 100 mm 10 upward degree bend. the shifters are flat as is the saddle. I reckon I need a shorter stem on the Boone to relieve this pressure.
MANNNN !!! Just discovered your channel VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO !!! Great tips, advices for any level for a cyclist. KEEP ON THE VIDEOS :-) PS. Can you do a video about how to shift gears to make your ride for comfortable ( Steep hill, descending or flat road ) ??? THANKS !!!!
The general idea is conservation of energy. Gradually trade off speed for cadence up a hill (usually within the first third to halfway point of the incline, depending on how fast you approach it and how long the incline is). Once you're at the top of the hill, start trading cadence for speed one gear at a time.
Have someone ride behind you to watch your pedal stroke. If it's too high you will be rocking side to side. I see this a lot when doing club rides. If you do decide to start moving your saddle, mark your starting spot so you have a reference point to always go back too.
Hi! Thanks so much for the great videos! they have helped a lot as I have only been riding for 4 months and loving it! 'm 6'3ft and 250 lbs at 15% bf. (just to give an idea of build to frame question) - My sit bone width is 138cm - I am told this is very wide for a guy. People have recommended at least 10cm of clearance on either side of each sit bone for saddle sizing. however, Previously the most I could find would achieve 5.5mm on each side with a 149 gm saddle. I have now found a 155 from seller royal. I'm hoping this will help solve the problems I'm having of pain and saddle sores. The saddles I have run just don't feel like I have enough area to plat my si bones, I often feel like I need to move and reposition. DO you think that 10cm each side is a reasonable clearance as a starting point for a better bike fit? thanks again!!
I recently found your channel and it's given me a new appreciation for the science of bike fitting. Sadly I was given a poor fit when I started cycling a couple of years ago and developed significant back issues as a result (overly tight QL muscle on one side, neck & mid-back strains). For now I've given up cycling but if I can fully recover I'll definitely be more informed for the next time I get a fit done.
Thanks for the video. My sitting bones always hurt after every ride, 2-3 hours ride, sometimes 4. But I don't have any issues with the four signs you mention, like arms hurting or knees hurting. Does this mean it's a saddle issue? Thanks.
Would have appreciated more info on achieving correct saddle and hand bar position . I know full well something is wrong. Naming it doesn't help me at all.
Like he says at the end of the video, try making some small changes and try to find what works. Also check out GCN videos, they have great content and are somewhat comical. Good luck and have fun with the adventure.
I am a fairly novice rider who is trying to train up to ride to work. The saddle that came with my bike really jarred the base of my spine after rides of 10+ miles. But I had no other problems with fit. And so 3 weeks ago I had a new saddle put on, but did not ride until I started vacation this week. With the new saddle my hands are numb and I keep slipping forward. Aldi I keep falling off when I try and get off the bike. According to the 109% seat fit guideline, the seat is ~1.5 inches too high. Does this sound reasonable? ,
Good information, but looking at those spacers hurts. You are modifying a race frame to be a sportive/endurance frame. With that many spacers and a raised stem, you should really consider a different frame that has a different stack height. I think that is part of bike buying a lot of people ignore, people buy the bike they wish they could ride, not the bike they ride. A big part of the issues you point out relates to core strength (another drastically overlooked issue). Balance and weight placement on the bike have a lot to do with how much or little people support themselves with their core. With a weak core, people tend to shift their weight to the saddle (or handlebars if improperly fitted), rotating their hips back into a more upright position. This is fine, but it does place a lot more stress on your sit-bones and reduces your potential power output. By strengthening your core you can rotate forward (you should always be able to let go of the bars in your riding position and easily support yourself) making your back and core like a springboard that absorbs road vibration and impact.
This is a endurance bike "willier triestina gtr team 2016". I have one. The problem i think, its a incorrect size for him. To small. Seattube and head tube to short. So if the most important top tube is the correct for him, i agree this is a wrong bike.
@@eduardobinotto4818 It could be the right size, but due to being a race frame, it has too low of a stack height. It may be best to buy a custom frame to raise it to your preference/dimensions - if spacers really bother someone. In my opinion, spacers do not matter so much (nor stack height) as much as frame angles and weight distribution between the wheels.
Thanks for the video. My problem with the saddle is a little strange. I keep bouncing on it. I ride a diverge expert carbon size 54 and I keep bouncing of the saddle when I'm trying to accelerate. However when I ride my brothers bike which is a a diverge Base carbon size 54 I don't have that problem. Both the bikes have the same Geometry but different group sets. Different tires. What could the problem be?
Hello! Great video, very helpful ! I have a question regarding saddle tilt. Can a saddle nose tilted too much down cause lower back pain? I have done this to relief discomfort on the pelvis, which it did. But created sore lower back on the 3 rides i tried this set up. Thanks!
I bought a used bike a couple weeks ago. I was finding that my hands were going numb and I was constantly sliding forward, plus my feet were feeling sloppy on the pedals. No spd pedals yet, just regular. So I slid my seat foward and also raised it an inch. My hands no longer go numb, my feet no longer wander on my pedals, BUT I am still having to constantly slide my butt back. So should I be raising my handlebars instead of moving my seat forward and up? I have been riding 25 miles 3 times a week. At about mile 14 (1 hour) I have to get off my bike, and take a couple minute break because my butt hurts so bad. I am early 60s and have had both hips replaced. I am probably 50 pounds UNDERTALL. Thanks for your help.
So sliding forward is either the bars are too high, or too low, or the saddle is too high, or too low? It would be more helpful if you described when/why it would be either direction.
I changed my saddle and my pelvis pain went away also my arm numness went as well I did have to adjust my handlebars to bring them closer to me good tips
Get a saddle that is void of material in the taint area. SMP, specialized power series, Selle anatomica, Brooks carved etc. or maybe you just have a fat taint and you need to buy some rollerblades.
@@cameronpack6908 funny. I've tried a lot and it's a serious issue. I'd like to do more than just mountain biking but after about 20 minutes my fucking taint feels bruised for days after
I guess the choice is being super comfortable on the bike or being aero. Getting more puts one in awkward positions. I work on training my body to be able to adjust to aero position
Hi John, thanks for the informative video. I hope my bike fit is correct as I have just spent a great deal of our UK pounds in a hand made bespoke bike following a 2.5 hour Retul bike fit. The saddle is a Fizik Antares & I am OK for about 2 hours. After that much pain & discomfort ensue. Recently rode a charity sportive, over 6 hrs., nearly cried with pain! I am an old boy of 74 & only started serious riding two years ago. I went through 6 saddles on my Hybrid, finally settling on the US, Selle Anatomica. what is your opinion of that design? I may have to change to another SA, even if heavier for my lightweight, however worried that the drop bar cycle will not be the same as the flat bar Hybrid. Advice please.
I don't slip forward in the saddle, but I find myself wanting to shift myself further back than the saddle goes. Does it need to be higher, or do I need an offset seat post? My frame is larger than the experts have recommended for me, so my reach is not too short. Surprisingly, that sliver of a road bike seat is less painful than my bigger mountain bike seat.
Great Video. I often feel that i'm sliding forward, but kops is correct and I van's figure out why. I'm 177cm 84,5cm inseam and 61,5cm torso. I ride at 74cm from the BB and 67,5cm, center saddle to handlebars (53 from saddle nose). These measures don't seem me so out, but I can't stop sliding
Without being able to see you first hand, it's difficult to vet the measurements in a meaningful way. But one thing I wold address is the idea of KOPS. KOPS, or knee over pedal spindle is a good starting point for most people but it's by no means a hard and fast rule. (Plus, there is little consensus on where the plumb line should be dropped from the knee in KOPS -- from the front of the patella? from the patellar tendon? from the tibial tuberosity? from the center of rotation at the knee? Make sure that your saddle is far back enough, perhaps bytrying it a little further back as a test. Also, make sure that your saddle is level - even when you sit on it. Best of luck.
I've tried an Aliante R5 and i've stopped to slide forward: seems that a shaped profile suits me better than SLR flow before. Same measurements. I hope that i've found my saddle
I can confirm that chainging SLR to Aliante has resolved my sliding issues, i've also made some minor adjustments like 1mm of more reach and 1mm of lower saddle, but the saddle itself has made a HUGE difference!
Any advice for women with pain in the girly parts? I've had several bike fits, tried numerous saddles, even spent 6 months in physical therapy to address back lourdosis issues, and still it seems that I have a choice between pain in the sit bones or pain in the girly parts (tilt pelvis back, you get pain in the sit bones, tilt it forward and the girly parts get numb and painful). I even tried Specialized's new "mimic" saddle - it was so horrible that I'm still sore 3 days later! Would appreciate any thoughts anyone might have.
Sounds good, but why do you wear cushioned bike shorts if it can be adjusted to be comfortable? So many people stop riding their bikes because of the discomfort they have. No doubt it can be decreased but never entirely.
Is there a optimal range of position the hip should be behind the feet? I've read that the GT in line with the seat tube is a good way of setting seat setback. Could you do a video of this topic perhaps? Pretty please
how can you test on yourself. If my seat hight is too low i will have problem because then I can lift my leg over to get off. also i am 68 and having problem with the seat pushing to much in to wrong area. and making it sore. I was looking at getting a wider seat but dont know if i should try to reposition the seat
An individual with lumbar spinal degenerative disk disease, (decreased disk space in lumbar spine) can also result in low back and buttocks pains. I'm a Chiropractor and rider that spent about a thousand dollars on various seats and fittings before I had an xray taken of my own back, with such a finding, lol.
numbness is caused by compression on the perineum area. if you are getting numbness i would first try lowering my saddle slightly and also making sure my saddle was dead level, or tilting a 1-2 degrees down. if that still doesn’t work i’d invest in a saddle with a cutout/a short nose which is designed to place bodyweight on the sit bones not the soft tissue. if you still get numbness get a professional bike fit. apparently numbness can lead to fairly serious problems ‘downstairs’ so it’s worth sorting out!
Heres my situation. Every time i get back into cycling i get pain in saddle area of my body. This goes away after a short period of time however it is painful making me to stop often. Almost like building a callous. Had major spine surgery from racing motorcycles many decades ago. Besides love to ride I'm also building my strength. It's a slow process as i bought a week ago Specialized Sirrus Pro Elite Carbon Fiber bike and simply love it. Any suggestions or advice appreciated. Well Made Presentation 🚲👍
Is that a Claris set.?I tend to lower my nose so I as to avoid sitting on my perinium.thus the forwrd slide.I tweak this by adjusting my saddle frwrf/aft position
This made me chuckle. My butt hurts like hell when I ride so I watched this video. My knees and wrists hurt too, and my outer three toes go numb after a while. Soooo I need halp!
I feel very comfortable on the saddle but recently having issues with shoulders. Don't know if increasing reach will solve it since I'm always riding on the very top of the hoods
Whats weird for me is that my saddle trouble(discomfort in groin area) began when or after I put my bike(2015 cannondale synapse ultegra) on a trainer(tacx neo 2t)...I'm gonna get a bike fit first and see where that takes me...
Hi John just came back into watching this after few weeks started cycling, and I just noticed that in 6:57 your plumb line looks like drop behind the pedal centre as advised by many bike fit videos and it kinda confuse me on what should I achieve first, correct plumb line, perfect reach or saddle comfort? Because now since I follow bike fit tips, I have three problem, hand numb issue, sore butt, and numb right toe. Before I try to find saddle comfort first by putting the saddle centre right on top of the seat post, what I believe made the force pointed not at the sitting bone, but it looks like my plumb line dropped behind the advised one. But it's comfortable. Thank you for your advise. Pardon my english.
Hey Dede, the plumb line method places the knee over the pedal spindle and is now not followed by many cyclists, when setting saddle position. Some well known bike fitters say your body should stay balanced if you lean forward, when riding without hands, if you have the position of your saddle correct. For me I set foot position on pedals first, cleats if you ride clipless, then saddle height, then reach and then adjust for the most comfortable balanced position. Check this out: ua-cam.com/video/gbFrz5FsIow/v-deo.html
Dede Firmansyah, hey again and one more thing. There is lots of advice on the Internet, but everything is just a starting point. Listen to your body and find out what works for you. You want to be a pain free and efficient cyclist.
You covered my pain symptoms in #4, BUT I was having the symptoms described BEFORE I got on a bike for the first time in about 32 years. That was 2 weeks ago. Doctors are not listening to me, can't explain why I no longer depend on cane to walk/have decreased pan in hip. Can anyone suggest a video that might explain?
HELP Both of my legs go numb with no feeling in them when riding my bike & when I get off my bike I temporarily can't stand or walk without falling down.
@@tomfu6210 not everybody has a car or can afford one. I don't have one & can't afford one. I had my bike seat lowered & that solved my problem & now no more numb legs
After 15 years of working in a bike shop thats in the top .05 percent of stack height that i have seen on a road bike. Spacers for days and flipped stem. Looks either too small or a bike for a 70 year old. That amount of spacers would be way over the maximum 40mm my frame allows.
At last! - my teenage daughter has been struggling with saddle discomfort for months and we've invested hundreds of $ on saddles. This video is the first I've seen that explains the issues - well done and Thank you for making this!
nigel brown thanks for watching and hope this helps!
nigel brown change local bike shop too!
Did you buy her a schwinn noseless saddle? Try that with thudbuster and she'll be riding all day even if she has a huge backside.
I have been searching for detail information on saddle and hand discomfort for some time. This is by far the best explanation I have seen! Excellent job! Your video is extremely helpful. I will continue to watch your other videos on this subject to help me determine how to resolve my issues. Thanks again.
this was spot on. adjusted my sattle today and comfort was immediately noticeable. thanks!
Did you raise it or lower it?
Thanks for the tips. Today I adjusted my handlebars because I’ve been sliding down the seat and having serious butt pain. Raising the bars helped a lot. A simple idea that was worth a lot for me.
This is a good generalized video. That said its not necessarily useful for people like myself who need to ride in a more upright position because of age-related neck or upper back issues. Because I am more upright with an endurance geometry bike and raised handlebars, I finally discovered that tilting the seat back in the same direction as my body worked wonders. I discovered this after being through 2 different bike fits and swapping out several saddles. It wasn't the saddles, it was the saddle angle which had to be set about 5 degrees off of level.
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The best bike fit videos on UA-cam.
Finally got into road cycling and been fighting to adjust. Went to flat pedals, tried rotating bars slightly, saddle positions/heights. After watching a few of your videos and some others I decided before buying a new saddle I needed to invest in a new stem. Stock my bike had a 140mm, so I dropped down to a 110. High speed seems unaffected, handling is much more stable when riding around at slower speeds as it's much more maneuverable.... BUT!!!!!! my butt... I'm now sitting back on the saddle more, like I should. So I think my saddle is fine. I was sliding off the front of it before, I'd get pain just forward of my sit bones where I'd normally get sore after long days on my mtb, pressure on my hands was killing me and I was blaming my gloves and bar tape, and my neck and shoulders would hurt so bad after rides 2 hours or more that I'd have to take almost a week off the road bike. Think I need a chiropractor to get my neck/shoulders corrected (after this covid blows over) but I can function now, and all because of a stem length change. Thanks for putting out such thorough and well thought out content.
Thank you.. one of the best videos. Please do more Bicycle riding tips videos.
I want to say that point 4 about foot problems is spot on. I've been plagued by foot numbness for a long time. I ended up solving it because I loaned my bike to a buddy's brother for one ride when he came in from out of town. We adjusted the saddle to fit him (raised it) and when he brought it back, I attempted to get it back to my normal setting. I ended up missing by about 2mm. It was a bit higher and BAM, foot trouble over! It made it possible to enjoy riding again. So my advice is tweak by 1 to 2mm until it goes away. This works.
#5: I would also recommend, a lot of seat problems are caused due to a fungus like that of athletes foot. Using a good anti fungal cream every couple days will stop that. Also keeping a 5 gallon bucket near the shower to rinse the shorts off at least every two rides will reduce the fungal build ups and allowing the water to sit for a day before rinsing your shorts will reduce the fabric damage of your shorts due to the chlorine in the water.
#6. Fit of the shoe. Getting your foot positioned on the pedal has less to do with the length of your foot as it does to the arch position of the foot. Take for example: Your foot has a length of a size 45. So you buy a 45 and it feels tight and you find you get numb toes and your body just isn't comfortable on the bike because you look down and the ball of your foot is way behind the center of the axle of the peddle. You go in to a local SHOE STORE and ask them to measure the arch of your foot. The sales person should automatically know that you are being very specific as to the fit for your foot. They will probably pay more attention to you. So, let's say you have a 45 (10) measure length and you're arch is a 48 (13). All that means is you're like most men (women are usually the same (7 and 7) which means you have shorter toes in relation to the arch of your foot Get a shoe for a 48. It will make it wider in the front and from my experience, most to not all, come in only a C width. This will open the front up stopping the numb toes and it will the ball of you foot is exactly over the center of the axle of the pedal. Note: The number on the box of the shoes DOES NOT TELL YOU THE LENGTH. It tells you where the arch position is built IN to the shoe. Thus the ball of your foot will be over the axle of the pedal correctly. Do not listen to anyone telling you that a shoe needs to be tight or it will stretch and get better. The shoe should feel good enough for you to wear everywhere (except if you have road shoes where the cleats impede the gate).
In regards to no. 5 I never understood the popularity of padded shorts or inlays, they will start to stink at some point no matter what. I prefer the padding to be part of the saddle, much easier to clean that surface.
Really well presented. Thank you for creating these!
I have had so many discussions with folks on this subject, finally I found someone who shares my thoughts on this😄, great video, thanks 👍🏻
I was sitting too far forward on the saddle so I moved it all the way forward and now I sit on it perfectly but I still get super sore after anything over 10 miles so I bought a new saddle
Haven't installed it yet though I got a brooks
@@TONOCLAY listening to all these advices on the web you will spend all kinds of money trying to solve the impossible. I have tried everything in the book, so let's be honest here for once, there is no such a thing as comfort in biking. Everyone's anatomy is different. Some will sore up at 10 miles, others much more than that. Some people will have saddle discomfort no matter what they do! There is nothing comfortable about riding a bike. Let's admit a fact for once.
I do disagree with some things he says, but in general, he's right on the money.
Lots of incorrect bike fit info on the internet.
One important factor that's not mentioned (crank length) get this wrong for your limb lengths & hip mobility & no saddle or position can be made to fit you comfortably ... start with shoes / pedals / cleat position, then work on saddle height / position / Tilt ... 40 yrs & many thousands of miles of racing / setting up my bikes & other riders.
My saddle tilt before is 0 degrees..
Made me had to stretched my arms to reach the hood..
I’ve changed my saddle tilt nose down little bit, and its made me comfort riding the bike and get easily on aero position..
"Fit issues!"
How do you fix these issues?
"By fixing the fit of the bike!"
Ohhhhkay then.
So you expect an optometrist to tell you how to fix your eyes? That's what he does for a living! And needs expensive equipment to DO IT!
@@davetinoco No u unscrew the stuff and do the adjustments by watching a video.
Great....im sure i wont overthink any of this advice in investigating my hand numbness and saddle discomfort.
I have the same issues!
Wonderful explanation and clarity much appreciated
Well if I have to chose between buying a new saddle or adopting a grandpa position on the bike I'll go for the new saddle. Sure, saddle discomfort can be solved by changing the fit. But lets face it, if you have a race bike you want to go fast. Which means you want to have a somewhat aero position, and then you will have to have a long + low reach and a bit of a forward angle on the saddle. A saddle with a grippy surface will stop you sliding about, a saddle with a hole in the nose will reduce numbness and perineum pressure, a proper positioning of the bars and grips will eliminate hand numbness, and training core strength will also help a lot for all of these.
5:35 nearly crapped my pants
I have trouble with sore bum/hips and knees - and i tried 3 saddles. Yhis was a great video for me (ill be making adjustments)
@05:35 everyone listening to this video using headphones probably signed up for an appointment with their otologist.
Yup
WHAT ?
that part should have been filmed again. ALMOST HAD AN HEART ATTACK!!!!
pussies lol.
Daaaaah!
Yay im your 5500th sub, it was 5.4, subbed and then refreshed, 5.5. im surprised this channel is not bigger, such good content.
+sarethums thank you!
Thanks for your very helpful explanations
Boy, that really clears it up!?????
Very informative video. Confirmed some of my suspicions.
On an unrelated note, I’m a Wilier bike owner and a newly converted bont wearer. Respect!
Thank you. It was very informative.
After I saw this video some week ago. I dropped my saddle about a cm and moved also aft too by a cm, got more comfortable, then I dropped it another 4 mm and I got faster and I can now ride while holding from hoods too.. And also I can ride hands off from handlebar now.. Don't get tired so much after long ride also. Most comfortable I feel now when I'm on drops. I still feel like I need to push my own rear end back to the rear end of saddle time to time.. Seems I'm sliding forward.. But I'm sure I will figure out what causes it by my own.. someday.
Currently I did not have saddle discomfort, but I always felt that the reach is too far.. It was confusing, because when I bought the bike. I bought one size smaller than sizechart recommended. But I made a lot of research to figure out how long top-tube and/or reach would fit me. I believe I got correct size. But one thing that bugged me, did not make any sense, but was still throwing some doubts to me. Was that some websites said that wen between 2 sizes: measure ape-index. And if it's positive: take the bigger frame. I do have positive ape index, but I did not follow that advice, because it did not make sense. The bigger frame would have also longer head tube - higher stack.
Initially I had set saddle according of equations and heels on pedal method and so on.. Also had measured knee and whatever angles.. But I don't have indoor trainer, so I just dropped chain. Sat on bike while leaning against wall.. aligned my rear part on saddle to a position where I usually sit on while riding and filmed from side.. with as long lens as I could use in my small space, then measured the angles with protractor against computer screen... Seems I could not do it well like that, since it was not good. I remember I lowered it last autumn about a cm or even 1.5. too. That time I moved it partially because of saddle discomfort.. Felt like pinching pain under perineum.. like someone pulling from hairs there, or something similar pinching. Thought that it's the fault of bike pants. But by fluke I discovered it was because of too high saddle..
I think all saddles are designed to be horizontal. If I set nose even little downwards I may get numbness.. Even though It does not look like I'm sliding too much forward that way. When I was kid I liked to tilt nose upward. I guess, I was just stupid.. or maybe I was a sado masochist. It was definitely not too comfortable to ride like that, but I still set it that way. I always had it also so high as possible, and also moved it as far aft too I think, because I thought that this way I can use more muscles more efficiently. Also calf muscles and hand muscles. But I don't say that I did wrong. It was still worth of trying.. It has been interesting path to travel. To experience and learn different things. But it's also interesting to learn from others, even if they are smarter than I am. It's still pleasant to get know more. ;D
This was one of the best video tutorial about bikefiting that I have seen. Now I just have to figure out what is the things that you kept to yourself and did not mention here. And then I will be as smart as you are and even surpass you in my big greatness. :P
Hardi Erstu thank you! Good luck!
great informative video. i didn't know a saddle too low could cause all these issues. i thought a low saddle just made the pedal stroke inefficient. didn't think it could cause these issues. i might have to raise my saddle
this one really outlines my problems and give advice on how to solve them! was searching for this info for a long time and never found, but thanks to bikefit lessons now I know what's wrong with my toes.
Excellent. Thank you!
Thank you from Pakistan
Love your videos John, you make it sound so logical.
So saddle might be too high or low. Handlebars might be too high or low. Reach might be too much or too little. So in other words...it could be anything! Thanks for that brilliant advice
Haha that's life. Get used to it
@thereignofthezero225 ha ha...you're about two years too late
@H S yes sir. Time flies, eh?
It's not a cake recipe, do I need to draw it? Each person has a different fit.
Another great video - lots of little bits of information that I have seen elsewhere all together in one place. I will be experimenting over the next few weeks, mainly with bar height and reach.
Really appreciate your effort thanks bro
What was that explosion??
I check all these things as soon as I get new bike never had a problem 👍
Wow!! It makes sense now! Your videos are so much helpful. I’ve suscribe thank you so much! I have a question where do you get your biking shorts from? Or what website you use to buy new biking shorts
you explain various possible causes but no tips on how to setup the bike properly?
Not sure what you just watched
So what you adjusting don't get a seat with the pointed part on the seat that will hurt my private area
@@anitabolden5931 did you read what you wrote before posting it?
@@anitabolden5931 ? 😵
Why? Is not the internet full of them or what?
Loved it, thanks
So everything! You need a bike fit!!!
Joking, great channel! Very useful info!
Thank you. Good information especially regarding toe numbness and tingling. Any info regarding cramp in leg muscles would be spot on.
Again Good video.
Thank you so much for an amazing video!
Wow you are here for me I'm not sure how I found u but you are my answer to my problems of riding fantastic video, thank you my rides will be more enjoyable from here on out 🐸 Dean
Great video, thanks
+J B thank you!
great information!
Thank you!
I need to buy my first Chamois because I went cycling and my bum was destroyed for 3 days. Any advice on which Chamois has the most cushion/protection?
i just got my fixed gear bike and the bikeshop set the saddle height lower as I requested. However my hands hurts so bad when I ride, it seems all my weight are going into my hands. Since hands are also handles balancing and steering it hurts even riding 15-30mins. I set the saddle all the way down and now I ride more comfortably. Since I ride fixed gear my legs are doing all the work in pedals then backpedaling however it's now easier and I enjoy riding my bike.
You're just great, love your vids. Very informative.
how too remedy three issues would make a nice addition to this video
balor7 Thanks for the input...I'll work on something
Very good video !
Since I bought a single speed / fixed bike, almost 1,5 months i was adjusting my position up to mms
I am a lady and I'm having problem with the tip of the seat cause me pain
All good points. UCI now allows higher variance in saddle angle. Pros are now, per a recent GCN video, 'slamming' their saddle. My concern, people will want to emulate this. Perhaps it would be a good future video topic, especially as issues like poor bike handling, hand/wrist problems start to show-up in the pro peloton.
your videos are so helpful!!
That's my issue! I just bought a Trek FX and am sliding forward. The bars are too far and Im getting saddle sore.
Great info. From another source I've just been advised to raise my saddle 1cm and bring my cleats 5mm nearer my heel. Right now I'm experiencing some 'saddle' issues so hopefully these things will fix it.
+Hugh Wallace good luck!
Thank you! I'm glad to report that the small changes made (as outlined previously) have worked very well and I did a 120km ride last week without saddle issues bothering me at all. I also now think that some of my 'saddle area issues' may be more related to the pad/chamois in my shorts rather than the saddle per se.
I am building a Trek Boone cx bike after I sold my Emonda due to a broken C5&6 vertebrae fracture. on my current Crockett build I get a little numbness in the hands on the thumb side. 54 cm frame with a 100 mm 10 upward degree bend. the shifters are flat as is the saddle. I reckon I need a shorter stem on the Boone to relieve this pressure.
MANNNN !!! Just discovered your channel VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO !!! Great tips, advices for any level for a cyclist. KEEP ON THE VIDEOS :-) PS. Can you do a video about how to shift gears to make your ride for comfortable ( Steep hill, descending or flat road ) ??? THANKS !!!!
The general idea is conservation of energy. Gradually trade off speed for cadence up a hill (usually within the first third to halfway point of the incline, depending on how fast you approach it and how long the incline is). Once you're at the top of the hill, start trading cadence for speed one gear at a time.
How do you know if your saddle is too high, or too low, when the symptoms can be the same?
Have someone ride behind you to watch your pedal stroke. If it's too high you will be rocking side to side. I see this a lot when doing club rides. If you do decide to start moving your saddle, mark your starting spot so you have a reference point to always go back too.
Hi! Thanks so much for the great videos! they have helped a lot as I have only been riding for 4 months and loving it!
'm 6'3ft and 250 lbs at 15% bf. (just to give an idea of build to frame question) - My sit bone width is 138cm - I am told this is very wide for a guy. People have recommended at least 10cm of clearance on either side of each sit bone for saddle sizing. however, Previously the most I could find would achieve 5.5mm on each side with a 149 gm saddle. I have now found a 155 from seller royal. I'm hoping this will help solve the problems I'm having of pain and saddle sores. The saddles I have run just don't feel like I have enough area to plat my si bones, I often feel like I need to move and reposition. DO you think that 10cm each side is a reasonable clearance as a starting point for a better bike fit? thanks again!!
Good video thanks.. But you need a wireless mic, man!
I recently found your channel and it's given me a new appreciation for the science of bike fitting. Sadly I was given a poor fit when I started cycling a couple of years ago and developed significant back issues as a result (overly tight QL muscle on one side, neck & mid-back strains). For now I've given up cycling but if I can fully recover I'll definitely be more informed for the next time I get a fit done.
Thanks for the video. My sitting bones always hurt after every ride, 2-3 hours ride, sometimes 4. But I don't have any issues with the four signs you mention, like arms hurting or knees hurting. Does this mean it's a saddle issue? Thanks.
Yes it definitely is.
Would have appreciated more info on achieving correct saddle and hand bar position . I know full well something is wrong. Naming it doesn't help me at all.
Like he says at the end of the video, try making some small changes and try to find what works. Also check out GCN videos, they have great content and are somewhat comical. Good luck and have fun with the adventure.
I am a fairly novice rider who is trying to train up to ride to work. The saddle that came with my bike really jarred the base of my spine after rides of 10+ miles. But I had no other problems with fit.
And so 3 weeks ago I had a new saddle put on, but did not ride until I started vacation this week.
With the new saddle my hands are numb and I keep slipping forward.
Aldi I keep falling off when I try and get off the bike.
According to the 109% seat fit guideline, the seat is ~1.5 inches too high.
Does this sound reasonable?
,
Good information, but looking at those spacers hurts. You are modifying a race frame to be a sportive/endurance frame. With that many spacers and a raised stem, you should really consider a different frame that has a different stack height. I think that is part of bike buying a lot of people ignore, people buy the bike they wish they could ride, not the bike they ride.
A big part of the issues you point out relates to core strength (another drastically overlooked issue). Balance and weight placement on the bike have a lot to do with how much or little people support themselves with their core. With a weak core, people tend to shift their weight to the saddle (or handlebars if improperly fitted), rotating their hips back into a more upright position. This is fine, but it does place a lot more stress on your sit-bones and reduces your potential power output. By strengthening your core you can rotate forward (you should always be able to let go of the bars in your riding position and easily support yourself) making your back and core like a springboard that absorbs road vibration and impact.
This is a endurance bike "willier triestina gtr team 2016". I have one. The problem i think, its a incorrect size for him. To small. Seattube and head tube to short. So if the most important top tube is the correct for him, i agree this is a wrong bike.
@@eduardobinotto4818 It could be the right size, but due to being a race frame, it has too low of a stack height. It may be best to buy a custom frame to raise it to your preference/dimensions - if spacers really bother someone. In my opinion, spacers do not matter so much (nor stack height) as much as frame angles and weight distribution between the wheels.
Thanks for the video. My problem with the saddle is a little strange. I keep bouncing on it.
I ride a diverge expert carbon size 54 and I keep bouncing of the saddle when I'm trying to accelerate. However when I ride my brothers bike which is a a diverge Base carbon size 54 I don't have that problem. Both the bikes have the same Geometry but different group sets. Different tires. What could the problem be?
Hello! Great video, very helpful ! I have a question regarding saddle tilt. Can a saddle nose tilted too much down cause lower back pain?
I have done this to relief discomfort on the pelvis, which it did. But created sore lower back on the 3 rides i tried this set up. Thanks!
I bought a used bike a couple weeks ago. I was finding that my hands were going numb and I was constantly sliding forward, plus my feet were feeling sloppy on the pedals. No spd pedals yet, just regular.
So I slid my seat foward and also raised it an inch.
My hands no longer go numb, my feet no longer wander on my pedals, BUT I am still having to constantly slide my butt back. So should I be raising my handlebars instead of moving my seat forward and up?
I have been riding 25 miles 3 times a week. At about mile 14 (1 hour) I have to get off my bike, and take a couple minute break because my butt hurts so bad. I am early 60s and have had both hips replaced. I am probably 50 pounds UNDERTALL.
Thanks for your help.
So sliding forward is either the bars are too high, or too low, or the saddle is too high, or too low? It would be more helpful if you described when/why it would be either direction.
Thanks! you're great.
I changed my saddle and my pelvis pain went away also my arm numness went as well I did have to adjust my handlebars to bring them closer to me good tips
What if no matter what the saddle always feels like its crushing your taint?
Yep. I heard that
11 months and no answer? Darn.
Get a saddle that is void of material in the taint area. SMP, specialized power series, Selle anatomica, Brooks carved etc. or maybe you just have a fat taint and you need to buy some rollerblades.
@@cameronpack6908 funny. I've tried a lot and it's a serious issue. I'd like to do more than just mountain biking but after about 20 minutes my fucking taint feels bruised for days after
Instructions unclear. Sat on rollerblades and now it’s worse.
What size and degree stem do you have on the bike please?
I guess the choice is being super comfortable on the bike or being aero. Getting more puts one in awkward positions. I work on training my body to be able to adjust to aero position
Hi John, thanks for the informative video. I hope my bike fit is correct as I have just spent a great deal of our UK pounds in a hand made bespoke bike following a 2.5 hour Retul bike fit. The saddle is a Fizik Antares & I am OK for about 2 hours. After that much pain & discomfort ensue. Recently rode a charity sportive, over 6 hrs., nearly cried with pain! I am an old boy of 74 & only started serious riding two years ago. I went through 6 saddles on my Hybrid, finally settling on the US, Selle Anatomica. what is your opinion of that design? I may have to change to another SA, even if heavier for my lightweight, however worried that the drop bar cycle will not be the same as the flat bar Hybrid. Advice please.
Leptotila wellsi
Mmm llo
I don't slip forward in the saddle, but I find myself wanting to shift myself further back than the saddle goes. Does it need to be higher, or do I need an offset seat post? My frame is larger than the experts have recommended for me, so my reach is not too short. Surprisingly, that sliver of a road bike seat is less painful than my bigger mountain bike seat.
thanks found out my reach is too long. need a shorter stem. thanks
Great Video. I often feel that i'm sliding forward, but kops is correct and I van's figure out why. I'm 177cm 84,5cm inseam and 61,5cm torso. I ride at 74cm from the BB and 67,5cm, center saddle to handlebars (53 from saddle nose). These measures don't seem me so out, but I can't stop sliding
Without being able to see you first hand, it's difficult to vet the measurements in a meaningful way. But one thing I wold address is the idea of KOPS. KOPS, or knee over pedal spindle is a good starting point for most people but it's by no means a hard and fast rule. (Plus, there is little consensus on where the plumb line should be dropped from the knee in KOPS -- from the front of the patella? from the patellar tendon? from the tibial tuberosity? from the center of rotation at the knee? Make sure that your saddle is far back enough, perhaps bytrying it a little further back as a test.
Also, make sure that your saddle is level - even when you sit on it. Best of luck.
I've tried an Aliante R5 and i've stopped to slide forward: seems that a shaped profile suits me better than SLR flow before. Same measurements. I hope that i've found my saddle
I can confirm that chainging SLR to Aliante has resolved my sliding issues, i've also made some minor adjustments like 1mm of more reach and 1mm of lower saddle, but the saddle itself has made a HUGE difference!
Very informative. Thank you.
With a specialized toupe saddle how do you make it level? Where do you put your level to check?
Any advice for women with pain in the girly parts? I've had several bike fits, tried numerous saddles, even spent 6 months in physical therapy to address back lourdosis issues, and still it seems that I have a choice between pain in the sit bones or pain in the girly parts (tilt pelvis back, you get pain in the sit bones, tilt it forward and the girly parts get numb and painful). I even tried Specialized's new "mimic" saddle - it was so horrible that I'm still sore 3 days later! Would appreciate any thoughts anyone might have.
Seats with a hole or cutout in the middle are the best.
@@jbean530 Agreed! I can't imagine riding a saddle without a cutout. But alas, it doesn't seem to be enough to keep the pain at bay. Sigh.
@@theecocatlady7605 Right! Especially when you have a piercing.
@@cinnamongmc5430 Yikes!
Sounds good, but why do you wear cushioned bike shorts if it can be adjusted to be comfortable?
So many people stop riding their bikes because of the discomfort they have.
No doubt it can be decreased but never entirely.
Is there a optimal range of position the hip should be behind the feet? I've read that the GT in line with the seat tube is a good way of setting seat setback. Could you do a video of this topic perhaps? Pretty please
how can you test on yourself. If my seat hight is too low i will have problem because then I can lift my leg over to get off. also i am 68 and having problem with the seat pushing to much in to wrong area. and making it sore. I was looking at getting a wider seat but dont know if i should try to reposition the seat
An individual with lumbar spinal degenerative disk disease, (decreased disk space in lumbar spine) can also result in low back and buttocks pains. I'm a Chiropractor and rider that spent about a thousand dollars on various seats and fittings before I had an xray taken of my own back, with such a finding, lol.
I don’t really notice discomfort, but after about 15 minutes I notice that my boys are asleep and it is quite painful when I get off the bike.
numbness is caused by compression on the perineum area. if you are getting numbness i would first try lowering my saddle slightly and also making sure my saddle was dead level, or tilting a 1-2 degrees down. if that still doesn’t work i’d invest in a saddle with a cutout/a short nose which is designed to place bodyweight on the sit bones not the soft tissue. if you still get numbness get a professional bike fit. apparently numbness can lead to fairly serious problems ‘downstairs’ so it’s worth sorting out!
Heres my situation. Every time i get back into cycling i get pain in saddle area of my body. This goes away after a short period of time however it is painful making me to stop often. Almost like building a callous. Had major spine surgery from racing motorcycles many decades ago. Besides love to ride I'm also building my strength. It's a slow process as i bought a week ago Specialized Sirrus Pro Elite Carbon Fiber bike and simply love it. Any suggestions or advice appreciated. Well Made Presentation 🚲👍
Could just be your butt is not used to the saddle from being off the bike for awhile?
Is that a Claris set.?I tend to lower my nose so I as to avoid sitting on my perinium.thus the forwrd slide.I tweak this by adjusting my saddle frwrf/aft position
Thank you! You're the best!
This made me chuckle. My butt hurts like hell when I ride so I watched this video. My knees and wrists hurt too, and my outer three toes go numb after a while. Soooo I need halp!
U need to stop riding a bike my friend
Can't take a pain LOL
... or i could fix my bike... 🤷♂️
Move the saddle back. You'll be surprised.
Also put the ball of your foot a bit in front of the axle.
I feel very comfortable on the saddle but recently having issues with shoulders. Don't know if increasing reach will solve it since I'm always riding on the very top of the hoods
Whats weird for me is that my saddle trouble(discomfort in groin area) began when or after I put my bike(2015 cannondale synapse ultegra) on a trainer(tacx neo 2t)...I'm gonna get a bike fit first and see where that takes me...
Which shoes are those?
Hi John just came back into watching this after few weeks started cycling, and I just noticed that in 6:57 your plumb line looks like drop behind the pedal centre as advised by many bike fit videos and it kinda confuse me on what should I achieve first, correct plumb line, perfect reach or saddle comfort?
Because now since I follow bike fit tips, I have three problem, hand numb issue, sore butt, and numb right toe.
Before I try to find saddle comfort first by putting the saddle centre right on top of the seat post, what I believe made the force pointed not at the sitting bone, but it looks like my plumb line dropped behind the advised one. But it's comfortable.
Thank you for your advise. Pardon my english.
Hey Dede, the plumb line method places the knee over the pedal spindle and is now not followed by many cyclists, when setting saddle position. Some well known bike fitters say your body should stay balanced if you lean forward, when riding without hands, if you have the position of your saddle correct.
For me I set foot position on pedals first, cleats if you ride clipless, then saddle height, then reach and then adjust for the most comfortable balanced position.
Check this out:
ua-cam.com/video/gbFrz5FsIow/v-deo.html
@@georgeat50plus18 hi george thanks for the tip, I will try this out tonight!
Dede Firmansyah, hey again and one more thing. There is lots of advice on the Internet, but everything is just a starting point. Listen to your body and find out what works for you. You want to be a pain free and efficient cyclist.
You covered my pain symptoms in #4, BUT I was having the symptoms described BEFORE I got on a bike for the first time in about 32 years. That was 2 weeks ago. Doctors are not listening to me, can't explain why I no longer depend on cane to walk/have decreased pan in hip. Can anyone suggest a video that might explain?
I think I may need to tip my seat forward I’ll try that first. Thanks
HELP
Both of my legs go numb with no feeling in them when riding my bike & when I get off my bike I temporarily can't stand or walk without falling down.
Use car. You need much less power for pedalling what reduces your leg stress.
@@tomfu6210 not everybody has a car or can afford one. I don't have one & can't afford one.
I had my bike seat lowered & that solved my problem & now no more numb legs
My best guess is that the way you were seated pinched your sciatic nerves.
After 15 years of working in a bike shop thats in the top .05 percent of stack height that i have seen on a road bike. Spacers for days and flipped stem. Looks either too small or a bike for a 70 year old. That amount of spacers would be way over the maximum 40mm my frame allows.
Hi, how often do we have to cahnge the saddle in a route bike? thank you from Houston, TX
explained well