Dave is an appliance guru! His knowledge, experience, and kindness helped me DIY-repair my 1950s Westinghouse fridge this week! I watched this video, left a comment below, got a prompt response with his diagnosis, did some messaging, ordered the R081 external start relay, followed his detailed instructions, spliced the wires, turned the thermostat dial, and watched my compressor start right up! I believe my Westinghouse will be chilling food for decades to come thanks to this amazing man!
Just like many other fields of repair that are going extinct, vintage appliance repair should be saved. These refrigerators were made to last decades and be simple to repair when needed. Today's designs are made not to last and be junked when the electronics fail (usually within 5 yrs). Great skilled service. Good job.
Hi David, Perfect instruction video! Searched exactly for this video (for a Westinghouse OD8). - Overload protection is dead (open, and seams to be already repaired, with some solder inside) - I will replace them. But replacement to find is not easy - and not cheap (Supco OV34) especially for shipping to Europe ;-), so I will try with a 250W or 375W replacement. - Start relay stuck - same as in your video - I will repair them. - Most of the cables are crumbled - I will replace them. - Compressor is running! And most important: Fridge is cooling (with manual compressor connections and manual starting) - and ready for a cold beer this evening ;-) You saved my day! Thanks a lot!
Thank you. It is very sad how few people in today's world are able to troubleshoot things. Very disappointing actually. When I went to school, much of what we discussed was troubleshooting based on what you could see, and here, and feel, and test with instrumentation. That was the basis of the technical education I received. It should still be that way, however, it seems the current generation of technicians are different in some ways.
This video is great. I recently bought a vintage westinghouse freezer of this same vintage, same problem of not starting. Tries, but then the overload kicks in. Paid almost nothing for it. Tonight I pulled the thermostat/start relay assembly out and sure enough, that little relay piece was stuck just like the one in this video... Well, not quite as bad because I didn't need to drive it out with a punch. But it wasn't moving and making the start circuit connection. Cleaned it up, going to town tomorrow for some #4 screws or rivets. I'm pretty confident that this is going to bring this beautiful old freezer back to life. Thanks!
You're welcome! The Westinghouse start-relay thermostat design was unique in the industry. There are many forum posts and comments asking how it works. This video was a good opportunity to show and explain how it is supposed to operate. The only issue is how Westinghouse didn't protect the plunger's iron core from rust; and the mounted it in the cabinet insulation where moisture could get to it.
(Tom again.) You should have your own repair service on UA-cam. You will get a lot of traffic on it, l bet. Thank you for preserving these old, classic Ice-Boxes!!!! You are a true American, and a heck-a-va repairman on these classic machines.
I love your videos David. Very instructional. This is invaluable information.Definitely like the longer start to finish format. Looking forward to your new projects! -Rich
I feel like repairing things is becoming a lost art these days with everything disposable. It's a real shame too! As far as environmental concerns go, if the cooling system was flat on charge, recharging with R152a is actually better for then environment due to R152a being non-ozone depleting and having a GWP of 124 which is under the Paris Agreement's GWP of 150 limit and safer than R290. Good job on getting her running again!
Thank you very much for this video, it was a great help. I am in the process of restoring a similar Westinghouse fridge from the 1950s and the refrigerating unit seems to be identical to the one in your video. The fridge has stood unused for several decades, but I could start it up allright. The compressor ran quite smoothly and the tubing round the freezer box got cold. The compressor and cooling rack were a bit rusty and it took some time to clean them up and remove the rust. When I was just about done, I noticed that a very narrow tubing coming out of the end of the filter (or whatever it is) behind the compressor was broken. The compressor took a bit of shaking during the cleaning and I guess that is what broke the tubing. It may have been close to breaking at the beginning, since when I turned the compressor on before I started the cleaning for real, I noticed white vapour coming up intermittedly from behind the compressor, where the filter is. Be that as it may, the tube is broken and the cooling medium has in all likelihood been contaminated. I would greatly appreciate any advice about how to proceed. Apart from repairing the tube, I guess I have to completely recharge the system.
Fascinating. You obviously have years of experience with these old Gems. God Bless You for repairing and restoring these ageless machines. Built when things were meant to last, I was astounded to see that old compressor fire up. I wish I was still as functional as it is. I'm 62 and that compressor is older than I am. They truly did build things to last back then. The best part is that while it still does the job it was designed to do, it will never try to remind you that your vehicle needs an oil change or try to tell you what time it is in Tokyo.
Sometimes mechanical contacts like the door switch will not properly switch low voltages. So if you measure resistance with a low test voltage(like a normal multimeter does) the contacts may appear open because of small oxide layers. However this layer will easily break down with higher voltages. This is why gold plated contacts are advised for low voltage circuits. This may explain the resistance measurement with the light bulb.
Yep, that's true; especially when these have been sitting a long time in a high humidity environment. I don't have a chance to re-watch the video at the moment but I think maybe in this fridge, there was an LED bulb in the socket which was causing a high resistance measurement, as well. With antique refrigerator light switches in particular, they are often extremely worn. There is no 'snap-action,' plus with the switch mounted at the hinge side of the door, the plunger moves slowly. This maximizes arc time during switching off and on. Many of the better ones are equipped with silver alloy contacts. These are very prone to oxide layers and poor measurements at low voltages; but they 'wear like pig's nose' during normal use and almost last forever.
I want to make a junction box outlet like you have for the Kill-a-Watt and toggle switch. I'm thinking it is a three gang box, with two outlet/one toggle plate. But how did you wire it to read the Kill-a-Watt meter without something plugged into the female outlet of the Kill-a-Watt? Also, did you wire all of the outlets to the toggle?
Hi there and thank you for the comment. I have been planning to make a video on building a test box like this. It has a double pole switch to break the neutral and the life for safety when working on things. The meter is modified slightly. There is an additional neutral wire coming out the back of the meter. That neutral wire allows the meter to measure and meter the current going to the outlet on the box. The outlet on the box is switched, but the outlet on the Kill-A-Watt meter is not. This allows to meter to stay in whatever mode is selected even when power is turned off to the device under test. There is a certain delay in switching to current mode on power up. That delay is too long in my opinion to not know how much current is flowing.
The world parts shortage is an indicator that we need to step backwards and bring manufacturing home. Appliances coming from Asian manufacturers aren't durable, not by any stretch.
Hello! Hoping you can help, rebuilding almost exactly the same fridge, maybe even a little niftier inside! Can you provide identifiers for the circut breaker used on this compressor. Like this one mine was cracked and not working at all. I bypassed for the short term to check compressor and it works great, but want the circut breaker before running long term.
Great job David. You might try Free All to loosen parts instead of P.B. Blaster or WD-40 ~ I found out about this spray from another UA-cam Channel and now I swear by it!
@@davida1hiwaaynet Hi David: I have seen Free All used on several channels but the one that I think you would enjoy watching is ua-cam.com/users/farnhamassoc . Mike's channel is mostly vintage Volkswagen repair (not restoration). He does some fairly impressive work.
Thanks for the video, Dave. I’ve got a nearly identical Westinghouse refrigerator to the one you’re working on. My refrigerator turns on and gets super cold…too cold in fact. I believe the thermostat needs to be rebuilt. I wish you would have shown a bit more detail on how you removed the thermostat. I’m trying very hard not to break anything during disassembly.
A wonderful repair and restoration David. Well done. I’m wondering if you can help me diagnose my 1950s Westinghouse? It’s nearly identical with a half-freezer being on the top right and slightly different shelf/drawer configuration. I got it in great condition from a local bank 11 years ago, thoroughly enjoyed it for 10 faithful years, and then we moved out of state. It unfortunately sat under a tarp for the last year, I set it up in my new yurt location this week, but when I went to plug it in, the compressor won’t start. I have power with a grounded plug, the light comes on, and when I turn the control knob at the top, something makes an obvious click, the light dims, and then it clicks again maybe 30 seconds later and the light brightens, but the compressor never turns on. If I leave the control knob on, it tries again a few minutes later. I watched your video, and simply don’t have the mechanical nor electrical understanding you do, so I don’t think I can do what you did as far as a full repair, but where would you recommend I start? I’m in a yurt and it’s my only fridge, so I’m currently keeping my food in there and swapping frozen ice jugs every other day. I would greatly appreciate your knowledgeable diagnosis and advice. Thank you. Zachary
Hi Zachary. I apologize that your comment got put in the held for review pile. I can help you get this going very easily. The start-relay is stuck because of moisture during sitting. You can add an external start-relay to the system and get it going for about $10. I looked at your channel and found your Facebook link, but it didn't work for me. I will need to send you a wiring diagram. Could you look me up on Facebook, or send me an e-mail at the address on my channel about page? That will ensure we can communicate.
Hey David, I also have a Westinghouse 8156 fridge. I was wondering where you can obtain parts for it? Looks like you installed a new over pressure safety cut out switch on yours. Nice, informative video on this. Very helpful. Thanks!
Hi Kelly. Thanks for the comment! There are no new parts available specifically for these refrigerators. You have to adapt parts for modern fridges, use universal parts, or fabricate parts as necessary. There actually aren't any pressure switches on these systems. There is only really one safety device. It is the compressor overload breaker. This can be obtained by ordering a Supco RO81 start-overload device, and taking it apart to get the circuit breaker out of it. You can order the overload alone, under part number Supco OV34 however fewer places stock that one versus the RO81 assembly containing the same overload.
great explanations, only part that is confusing is at the end when you do the circuit breaker stall test. I briefly googled it and looks like it is to check if there is still a live circuit. I'm guessing the danger if that is the case is it heats up and could cause a fire. Overall good show though.
Hi, glad you enjoyed the video! As for the stall test, it is important to understand the reason that the overload breaker is installed into the system in the first place. It doesn't detect a live circuit. The motor winding of the compressor is designed to safely carry about 2 to 3 amps of continuous current. If the current is higher than that level, the winding would eventually overheat and burn out. The winding can take 10 or more amps for "a few seconds" without damage. When the compressor is at rest (powered off) all the moving parts are stopped. When power is first applied to the compressor, it takes more than 2 or 3 amps to get the compressor up to speed. This happens at each start, for a very short period of time, maybe 1/2 second. There are problems which can occur with the system. Certain problems will cause the compressor motor to carry much more than 2 or 3 amps, for an extended time. The function of the overload breaker is to turn off the current when something goes wrong, and a high current is maintained too long. The breaker is configured to turn off power before the motor winding is damaged. Because these new parts are all made in China and are low-cost parts, it is important to prove that they will perform their safety function. This is proven by creating a "problem" which causes the compressor motor to take more amps than normal. Because I am controlling and monitoring the current during the test, I can manually intervene if the current stays on too long (because the overload breaker is defective.) If this happens while I am monitoring the current, I can turn it off before the compressor is damaged. If the overload breaker was defective, but nobody was in the room when a problem happened - the compressor would be burned out. The stall test allows for the compressor overload breaker to perform its function, once, under controlled conditions. This will prove that it is not defective; and that it is capable of protecting the compressor when there is nobody around to monitor it. This compressor is unable to re-start immediately after it is powered off. Therefore, in order to carry out a stall test, the procedure is simple. The stall test is carried out bu running the compressor for 5 minutes or so; and then turning power off and back on after 5 or 10 seconds. That 5 or 10 seconds is not enough time to allow for a re-start. When the power is restored too quickly, the compressor will draw more than 2 or 3 amps (around 10 or 15) and will trip the overload breaker. If I can see that the current does not switch off after 10 or 15 seconds - the test is a failure and I will turn power off manually. If that happens, the overload will need to be replaced. It is either defective, or it might be the wrong part for the application. I hope this explains it for you!
You are very talented! We have a nearly new looking Westinghouse fridge from early 50's. Runs, just doesn't get cold. It literally sat in someones basement for 40 years. It looks new, except for the dust around the compressor and such. What would be your first thing to look for?
Hi Tricia. That is so cool that you found a Westinghouse in such like-new condition. Was it plugged in and running while it was in the basement for 40 years? I ask because if it ran without cooling for a whole long time, it may have some additional damage. Other than that, I would look for oil leaking around the evaporator or compressor area. It may have developed a leak. Look around the interior of the freezer compartment for any evidence of puncture marks.
I have a model just like the one in the video, found it in the house we moved into. when plugged in It hums for 20 seconds, then turns off and will rest for a minute then hum again for 20 seconds, and continues like that. The motor will never turn over though. when checking the resistance on the motor, it appears as though it is 20 ohms, 3 ohms, and 23 ohms, kind of like your model. Do you know what the problem could be?
Hi, I know exactly what is wrong. There is a 99% chance that your start relay is stuck. You can rebuild the start relay as I have showed in these videos, or you can add an external start relay at the compressor which will avoid having to take the cabinet apart. If you decide to go aftermarket relay, you would want to order a Supco RO81 device. If you go that route I can try to explain how to connect it, but it would be easiest if you send me an email.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Wow! I am happy to hear that. I am going to add an external relay, i'll go with the aftermarket, I'll PM you if I have questions. Do you have any videos going this route?
@@davida1hiwaaynet hey i seem to be having the same issue with mine is there any chance you still have the wiring instruction for the aftermarket relay?
I can't ge the sensing bulb out of the cabinet part... It seems to be factory glued in with some black adhesive. Can I just take off the bolt on the back, rebuild, and screw it back in? Your videos are very helpful btw! It's hard to find good info on these online..
Thank you. Now-a-days, common sense it a dying trait. Most people who have lost common sense with technical things now see common sense as a superpower LOL!
I have a westinghouse refrigerator that when plugged in, clicks, makes a humming noise, clicks again and shuts off. The compressor does not kick on at any point. The interior light works. What should I be looking into?
That symptom, not starting and then clicking off, is usually the start-relay. It is possible to add an external start relay located near the compressor, to allow the compressor to run in spite of the start-relay built into the thermostat not working. Another possibility is that the compressor itself is stuck. This is very unlikely. How did this problem appear? Did it happen suddenly, or did you just acquire the refrigerator and found out it is in this condition? That will tell us a lot.
@@frankiebush2604 That makes sense. The start relay gets stuck from moisture and sitting. I'll get some info for you, on the external relay later today. Not at home at the moment.
Wow, what an awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to make it and teach those that are interested in repairing these incredible vintage refrigerators. They truly don't make things like they used to. I have a very similar Westinghouse refrigerator with an issue that I need your expertise. I don't know the terminology, but essentially when you open the freezer portion of the fridge, there are solid chunks of ice in between the metal freezer portion itself and the casing of the refrigerator. Does that make sense? There are a couple of chips on the freezer door and i was wondering if that is contributing to the extreme ice build up? If so, what product would you recommend to repair the freezer door? Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for sharing your Knowlege with us an give the good old Refrigerators a new Life. Nothing compared to the chinese low quality crap nowadays. Greets from Germany.
Hi David, congratulations for your restoration on the refrigerators, I am writing to you from Italy, I also own an old Fiat brand refrigerator that has a thermostat like the one in the video, unfortunately broken, I would need help to be able to repair it ... you would be available? thank you
Yes I think so. So my fridge will keep getting super cold even if I only have the dial turned on to defrost, it’s like the compressor won’t turn off until I eventually unplug it. So I went through your video and when I pulled the start relay out I noticed that the pad & little spring on the thermostat movable arm (that you held back with a zip tie) was loose. So I’m hoping that I’m not getting a disconnect and it’ll work if I get that little snap ring on it!?
HELLO DAVID - THANK YOU FOR THESE VIDEOS. YOU MENTIONED IN ONE OF THEM THAT YOU HAD TO REBUILD SOME CONTACT POINTS - DID YOU MAKE A VIDEO OF THAT? IF YOU DID, I’D LIKE TO SEE IT. CAN YOU POINT ME TO IT? THX.
Hi Jim. I haven't made a video showing replacing contacts. It's very tedious working with small items like the points so making a video will be challenging. Some day I will do that.
Dear David I have an old GE that I would like to bring back to life. I live I. Winston Salem NC. Can you help me or at least tell me who would be great at bringing my baby back to life.
my 1947 or 48 fridge died last month . the "modern" (10+years old) replacement that i bought is running almost every time i walk by it . my old one , especially once it got some frost built up , didn't run nearly as much . not looking forward to future power bills .
@@davida1hiwaaynet found oil on floor in morning + household breaker tripped + compressor won't run . leak probably near freezer compartment , as oil dripping out bottom , between inner and outer walls . compressor must be locked up . don't know anyone in my area (central nc) to repair it , but still have hope . started removal of mouldings to at least find leak source . asbestos insulation in these ?
Hi Bill. Did you reach out to me once about this already? I seem to remember a Shelvador having this problem? That comment may have been at a time when I was not responding to any comments due to work obligations. There is zero asbestos anywhere in these refrigerators. It is a high temp insulation, not very good for use in a refrigerator cabinet. Your problem sounds a little bit like maybe wiring shorted out against the tubing and burned a hole in the lines. That would result in a breaker trip, and let oil leak out. Have you made proper electrical tests to the compressor with all the cabinet wiring disconnected to be sure it is where the short circuit is located?
@@davida1hiwaaynet thanks . i mentioned it , but not really expecting reply . i assumed by amount of oil on floor , and tripped breaker , that she's locked . haven't checked w/meter yet . i had defrosted (no sharp objects) w/2 plug in defrosters , left them going longer than intended (compartment got too hot to touch) plugged fridge in and went to bed . wondering if it got hot enough to melt line connections , or built enough pressure to burst a line . i don't believe there is any wiring in the area of the leak , and light still works when door is open .
@@billsmith1770 If this is the type of compressor I am thinking from Crosley; it will have about 2 quarts of oil in it. There can be a huge leak before the compressor loses enough to seize up. I have been working on antique fridges for a while; but haven't seen everything. I can however say that I have never seen overheating an evaporator with defrost heaters cause a broken line. These lines are typically soldered with alloys taking 400°F or more (often a lot more) to melt. Even if the evaporator is overheated, the compressor can only produce a limited amount of pressure, with its capability limited in a way so that it can't cause any lines to burst. The compressor would stall, or reach an equilibrium point before it burst a line. The only exception to this would be if the evaporator its self was corroded thin and burst. But you would have seen the oil as soon as that happened, and it would have been more in the cabinet interior than in the walls. The thermostat is located near the evaporator, and it has wiring connected to it. The wiring isn't designed for high temperatures. It is very likely that the cabinet liner got very hot as well as the evaporator. That could have allowed the wiring insulation to soften so that it failed where the wiring ran across the refrigerant lines. If a breaker tripped, it is likely that the compressor was stopped instantly as soon as the line got a hole in it - if it is a short circuit which caused the leak to appear. You need to measure the resistances of the compressor motor and see what that looks like before thinking about condemning it. It will be interesting seeing what you find. Would you mind sending me an e-mail? If your compressor is indeed bad, I may have a spare.
Surprised he didnt suggest inverter linear….sheesh hopefully he was kidding, not really the point of what we’re into and what your channel is all about. Very nicely done.
Dave is an appliance guru! His knowledge, experience, and kindness helped me DIY-repair my 1950s Westinghouse fridge this week! I watched this video, left a comment below, got a prompt response with his diagnosis, did some messaging, ordered the R081 external start relay, followed his detailed instructions, spliced the wires, turned the thermostat dial, and watched my compressor start right up! I believe my Westinghouse will be chilling food for decades to come thanks to this amazing man!
Hi Zachary! I am so glad that you were able to get your Westinghouse going! Best of luck with your homestead. Happy to have helped you out.
Just like many other fields of repair that are going extinct, vintage appliance repair should be saved. These refrigerators were made to last decades and be simple to repair when needed. Today's designs are made not to last and be junked when the electronics fail (usually within 5 yrs). Great skilled service. Good job.
Hi David,
Perfect instruction video!
Searched exactly for this video (for a Westinghouse OD8).
- Overload protection is dead (open, and seams to be already repaired, with some solder inside) - I will replace them. But replacement to find is not easy - and not cheap (Supco OV34) especially for shipping to Europe ;-), so I will try with a 250W or 375W replacement.
- Start relay stuck - same as in your video - I will repair them.
- Most of the cables are crumbled - I will replace them.
- Compressor is running!
And most important: Fridge is cooling (with manual compressor connections and manual starting) - and ready for a cold beer this evening ;-)
You saved my day! Thanks a lot!
You have excellent troubleshooting skills. Sadly, they are uncommon today in our throw away society.
Thank you. It is very sad how few people in today's world are able to troubleshoot things. Very disappointing actually. When I went to school, much of what we discussed was troubleshooting based on what you could see, and here, and feel, and test with instrumentation. That was the basis of the technical education I received. It should still be that way, however, it seems the current generation of technicians are different in some ways.
Put a add in the paper. Maybe someone close to you has one.
It feels like competence is getting rarer and rarer these days.
This video is great. I recently bought a vintage westinghouse freezer of this same vintage, same problem of not starting. Tries, but then the overload kicks in. Paid almost nothing for it.
Tonight I pulled the thermostat/start relay assembly out and sure enough, that little relay piece was stuck just like the one in this video... Well, not quite as bad because I didn't need to drive it out with a punch. But it wasn't moving and making the start circuit connection.
Cleaned it up, going to town tomorrow for some #4 screws or rivets. I'm pretty confident that this is going to bring this beautiful old freezer back to life. Thanks!
Excellent! Happy that this has helped you. Hopefully the new fasteners solve all your problems with your Westinghouse freezer!
That was absolutely fantastic... Fixing that relay was just beautiful to see... Thanks so much for sharing!
You're welcome! The Westinghouse start-relay thermostat design was unique in the industry. There are many forum posts and comments asking how it works. This video was a good opportunity to show and explain how it is supposed to operate. The only issue is how Westinghouse didn't protect the plunger's iron core from rust; and the mounted it in the cabinet insulation where moisture could get to it.
(Tom again.)
You should have your own repair service on UA-cam. You will get a lot of traffic on it, l bet. Thank you for preserving these old, classic Ice-Boxes!!!! You are a true American, and a heck-a-va repairman on these classic machines.
I love your videos David. Very instructional. This is invaluable information.Definitely like the longer start to finish format. Looking forward to your new projects!
-Rich
Thanks!
I feel like repairing things is becoming a lost art these days with everything disposable. It's a real shame too! As far as environmental concerns go, if the cooling system was flat on charge, recharging with R152a is actually better for then environment due to R152a being non-ozone depleting and having a GWP of 124 which is under the Paris Agreement's GWP of 150 limit and safer than R290. Good job on getting her running again!
Once one knows the signs of a truly incompetent person... one sees it everywhere. Always enjoy your competent videos :)
Thank you Richie. I really appreciate that!
Love those Westinghouse compressors. Looks great David😎
Beautiful work David...love these videos, Happy Holidays
Thank you!
Thank you very much for this video, it was a great help. I am in the process of restoring a similar Westinghouse fridge from the 1950s and the refrigerating unit seems to be identical to the one in your video. The fridge has stood unused for several decades, but I could start it up allright. The compressor ran quite smoothly and the tubing round the freezer box got cold. The compressor and cooling rack were a bit rusty and it took some time to clean them up and remove the rust. When I was just about done, I noticed that a very narrow tubing coming out of the end of the filter (or whatever it is) behind the compressor was broken. The compressor took a bit of shaking during the cleaning and I guess that is what broke the tubing. It may have been close to breaking at the beginning, since when I turned the compressor on before I started the cleaning for real, I noticed white vapour coming up intermittedly from behind the compressor, where the filter is.
Be that as it may, the tube is broken and the cooling medium has in all likelihood been contaminated. I would greatly appreciate any advice about how to proceed. Apart from repairing the tube, I guess I have to completely recharge the system.
Thank you so much, you saved my old Westinghouse 1952 where the issue was the thermostat and it's the same one.
Fascinating.
You obviously have years of experience with these old Gems.
God Bless You for repairing and restoring these ageless machines.
Built when things were meant to last, I was astounded to see that old compressor fire up.
I wish I was still as functional as it is.
I'm 62 and that compressor is older than I am.
They truly did build things to last back then.
The best part is that while it still does the job it was designed to do, it will never try to remind you that your vehicle needs an oil change or try to tell you what time it is in Tokyo.
Thank you so much for the comment! Yep they did build things to stand the test of time back in the day.
Great job on getting this vintage fridge fixed
Thanks!
Great job, once again! Thank you for sharing this, and Merry Christmas.
Thanks, and Merry Christmas to you as well!
Right to repair and quality so it can be repaired is critical for the world.
Yes! Both very true statements!
Another awesome video David!!
Great works there, happy christmas and time off
Thank you! Same to you - Merry Christmas!
Sometimes mechanical contacts like the door switch will not properly switch low voltages.
So if you measure resistance with a low test voltage(like a normal multimeter does) the contacts may appear open because of small oxide layers.
However this layer will easily break down with higher voltages. This is why gold plated contacts are advised for low voltage circuits.
This may explain the resistance measurement with the light bulb.
Yep, that's true; especially when these have been sitting a long time in a high humidity environment. I don't have a chance to re-watch the video at the moment but I think maybe in this fridge, there was an LED bulb in the socket which was causing a high resistance measurement, as well. With antique refrigerator light switches in particular, they are often extremely worn. There is no 'snap-action,' plus with the switch mounted at the hinge side of the door, the plunger moves slowly. This maximizes arc time during switching off and on. Many of the better ones are equipped with silver alloy contacts. These are very prone to oxide layers and poor measurements at low voltages; but they 'wear like pig's nose' during normal use and almost last forever.
I want to make a junction box outlet like you have for the Kill-a-Watt and toggle switch. I'm thinking it is a three gang box, with two outlet/one toggle plate. But how did you wire it to read the Kill-a-Watt meter without something plugged into the female outlet of the Kill-a-Watt? Also, did you wire all of the outlets to the toggle?
Hi there and thank you for the comment. I have been planning to make a video on building a test box like this. It has a double pole switch to break the neutral and the life for safety when working on things. The meter is modified slightly. There is an additional neutral wire coming out the back of the meter. That neutral wire allows the meter to measure and meter the current going to the outlet on the box.
The outlet on the box is switched, but the outlet on the Kill-A-Watt meter is not. This allows to meter to stay in whatever mode is selected even when power is turned off to the device under test. There is a certain delay in switching to current mode on power up. That delay is too long in my opinion to not know how much current is flowing.
I learned something today, thanks!
Glad to hear it!
I’d like to know where to get shelving and crisper drawers?
The world parts shortage is an indicator that we need to step backwards and bring manufacturing home. Appliances coming from Asian manufacturers aren't durable, not by any stretch.
Hello! Hoping you can help, rebuilding almost exactly the same fridge, maybe even a little niftier inside! Can you provide identifiers for the circut breaker used on this compressor. Like this one mine was cracked and not working at all. I bypassed for the short term to check compressor and it works great, but want the circut breaker before running long term.
Great job David. You might try Free All to loosen parts instead of P.B. Blaster or WD-40 ~ I found out about this spray from another UA-cam Channel and now I swear by it!
Thanks. I'll look for that. Would you mind sharing a link to the channel you saw it on? I'd like to see their videos, I bet!
@@davida1hiwaaynet Hi David: I have seen Free All used on several channels but the one that I think you would enjoy watching is ua-cam.com/users/farnhamassoc . Mike's channel is mostly vintage Volkswagen repair (not restoration). He does some fairly impressive work.
Thanks! I will look at his videos soon. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the video, Dave.
I’ve got a nearly identical Westinghouse refrigerator to the one you’re working on.
My refrigerator turns on and gets super cold…too cold in fact.
I believe the thermostat needs to be rebuilt.
I wish you would have shown a bit more detail on how you removed the thermostat. I’m trying very hard not to break anything during disassembly.
A wonderful repair and restoration David. Well done.
I’m wondering if you can help me diagnose my 1950s Westinghouse? It’s nearly identical with a half-freezer being on the top right and slightly different shelf/drawer configuration. I got it in great condition from a local bank 11 years ago, thoroughly enjoyed it for 10 faithful years, and then we moved out of state. It unfortunately sat under a tarp for the last year, I set it up in my new yurt location this week, but when I went to plug it in, the compressor won’t start.
I have power with a grounded plug, the light comes on, and when I turn the control knob at the top, something makes an obvious click, the light dims, and then it clicks again maybe 30 seconds later and the light brightens, but the compressor never turns on. If I leave the control knob on, it tries again a few minutes later. I watched your video, and simply don’t have the mechanical nor electrical understanding you do, so I don’t think I can do what you did as far as a full repair, but where would you recommend I start?
I’m in a yurt and it’s my only fridge, so I’m currently keeping my food in there and swapping frozen ice jugs every other day. I would greatly appreciate your knowledgeable diagnosis and advice. Thank you. Zachary
Hi Zachary. I apologize that your comment got put in the held for review pile.
I can help you get this going very easily. The start-relay is stuck because of moisture during sitting.
You can add an external start-relay to the system and get it going for about $10.
I looked at your channel and found your Facebook link, but it didn't work for me. I will need to send you a wiring diagram. Could you look me up on Facebook, or send me an e-mail at the address on my channel about page? That will ensure we can communicate.
Hey David,
I also have a Westinghouse 8156 fridge. I was wondering where you can obtain parts for it? Looks like you installed a new over pressure safety cut out switch on yours.
Nice, informative video on this. Very helpful. Thanks!
Hi Kelly. Thanks for the comment! There are no new parts available specifically for these refrigerators. You have to adapt parts for modern fridges, use universal parts, or fabricate parts as necessary.
There actually aren't any pressure switches on these systems. There is only really one safety device. It is the compressor overload breaker. This can be obtained by ordering a Supco RO81 start-overload device, and taking it apart to get the circuit breaker out of it. You can order the overload alone, under part number Supco OV34 however fewer places stock that one versus the RO81 assembly containing the same overload.
great explanations, only part that is confusing is at the end when you do the circuit breaker stall test. I briefly googled it and looks like it is to check if there is still a live circuit. I'm guessing the danger if that is the case is it heats up and could cause a fire. Overall good show though.
Hi, glad you enjoyed the video!
As for the stall test, it is important to understand the reason that the overload breaker is installed into the system in the first place. It doesn't detect a live circuit.
The motor winding of the compressor is designed to safely carry about 2 to 3 amps of continuous current. If the current is higher than that level, the winding would eventually overheat and burn out.
The winding can take 10 or more amps for "a few seconds" without damage. When the compressor is at rest (powered off) all the moving parts are stopped. When power is first applied to the compressor, it takes more than 2 or 3 amps to get the compressor up to speed. This happens at each start, for a very short period of time, maybe 1/2 second.
There are problems which can occur with the system. Certain problems will cause the compressor motor to carry much more than 2 or 3 amps, for an extended time.
The function of the overload breaker is to turn off the current when something goes wrong, and a high current is maintained too long. The breaker is configured to turn off power before the motor winding is damaged.
Because these new parts are all made in China and are low-cost parts, it is important to prove that they will perform their safety function. This is proven by creating a "problem" which causes the compressor motor to take more amps than normal. Because I am controlling and monitoring the current during the test, I can manually intervene if the current stays on too long (because the overload breaker is defective.) If this happens while I am monitoring the current, I can turn it off before the compressor is damaged.
If the overload breaker was defective, but nobody was in the room when a problem happened - the compressor would be burned out.
The stall test allows for the compressor overload breaker to perform its function, once, under controlled conditions. This will prove that it is not defective; and that it is capable of protecting the compressor when there is nobody around to monitor it.
This compressor is unable to re-start immediately after it is powered off. Therefore, in order to carry out a stall test, the procedure is simple. The stall test is carried out bu running the compressor for 5 minutes or so; and then turning power off and back on after 5 or 10 seconds. That 5 or 10 seconds is not enough time to allow for a re-start. When the power is restored too quickly, the compressor will draw more than 2 or 3 amps (around 10 or 15) and will trip the overload breaker. If I can see that the current does not switch off after 10 or 15 seconds - the test is a failure and I will turn power off manually. If that happens, the overload will need to be replaced. It is either defective, or it might be the wrong part for the application.
I hope this explains it for you!
@@davida1hiwaaynet Great explanation! Still confused though☹️. Why would it use more amps after it was running for 5-10 min?
@@ellbug89pressure hasnt equalized in the system so it has to start up with the high pressure working against it.
You are very talented! We have a nearly new looking Westinghouse fridge from early 50's. Runs, just doesn't get cold. It literally sat in someones basement for 40 years. It looks new, except for the dust around the compressor and such. What would be your first thing to look for?
Hi Tricia. That is so cool that you found a Westinghouse in such like-new condition.
Was it plugged in and running while it was in the basement for 40 years? I ask because if it ran without cooling for a whole long time, it may have some additional damage.
Other than that, I would look for oil leaking around the evaporator or compressor area. It may have developed a leak. Look around the interior of the freezer compartment for any evidence of puncture marks.
I have a model just like the one in the video, found it in the house we moved into. when plugged in It hums for 20 seconds, then turns off and will rest for a minute then hum again for 20 seconds, and continues like that. The motor will never turn over though. when checking the resistance on the motor, it appears as though it is 20 ohms, 3 ohms, and 23 ohms, kind of like your model. Do you know what the problem could be?
Hi, I know exactly what is wrong. There is a 99% chance that your start relay is stuck. You can rebuild the start relay as I have showed in these videos, or you can add an external start relay at the compressor which will avoid having to take the cabinet apart. If you decide to go aftermarket relay, you would want to order a Supco RO81 device. If you go that route I can try to explain how to connect it, but it would be easiest if you send me an email.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Wow! I am happy to hear that. I am going to add an external relay, i'll go with the aftermarket, I'll PM you if I have questions. Do you have any videos going this route?
@@ellbug89 Sent a detailed e-mail!
@@davida1hiwaaynet hey i seem to be having the same issue with mine is there any chance you still have the wiring instruction for the aftermarket relay?
I can't ge the sensing bulb out of the cabinet part... It seems to be factory glued in with some black adhesive. Can I just take off the bolt on the back, rebuild, and screw it back in? Your videos are very helpful btw! It's hard to find good info on these online..
You know, intelligent people like us are hard to come by.
Thank you. Now-a-days, common sense it a dying trait. Most people who have lost common sense with technical things now see common sense as a superpower LOL!
I have a westinghouse refrigerator that when plugged in, clicks, makes a humming noise, clicks again and shuts off. The compressor does not kick on at any point. The interior light works. What should I be looking into?
That symptom, not starting and then clicking off, is usually the start-relay. It is possible to add an external start relay located near the compressor, to allow the compressor to run in spite of the start-relay built into the thermostat not working.
Another possibility is that the compressor itself is stuck. This is very unlikely. How did this problem appear? Did it happen suddenly, or did you just acquire the refrigerator and found out it is in this condition? That will tell us a lot.
@@davida1hiwaaynet I acquired the fridge this way. To my knowledge it has not been plugged in in a very long time
@@frankiebush2604
That makes sense. The start relay gets stuck from moisture and sitting. I'll get some info for you, on the external relay later today. Not at home at the moment.
@@davida1hiwaaynet thank you that would be great
Wow, what an awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to make it and teach those that are interested in repairing these incredible vintage refrigerators. They truly don't make things like they used to.
I have a very similar Westinghouse refrigerator with an issue that I need your expertise.
I don't know the terminology, but essentially when you open the freezer portion of the fridge, there are solid chunks of ice in between the metal freezer portion itself and the casing of the refrigerator. Does that make sense? There are a couple of chips on the freezer door and i was wondering if that is contributing to the extreme ice build up? If so, what product would you recommend to repair the freezer door? Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for sharing your Knowlege with us an give the good old Refrigerators a new Life. Nothing compared to the chinese low quality crap nowadays. Greets from Germany.
Hi David, congratulations for your restoration on the refrigerators, I am writing to you from Italy, I also own an old Fiat brand refrigerator that has a thermostat like the one in the video, unfortunately broken, I would need help to be able to repair it ...
you would be available?
thank you
Hello David, Please if you can activate the subtitles when you post your videos, can be great 👍. Thank you, Fred from France
I have a 1930 Westinghouse fridge in my shed that still goes, too scared to run it inside as I've heard of sulphur dioxide leaking from the lines.
Hey! That little pad with the spring. How is that held onto that rod? Is there like a snap ring or is it soldered on?
The pad on the spring internal to the thermostat? That is retained by a very small snap ring.
Yes I think so. So my fridge will keep getting super cold even if I only have the dial turned on to defrost, it’s like the compressor won’t turn off until I eventually unplug it. So I went through your video and when I pulled the start relay out I noticed that the pad & little spring on the thermostat movable arm (that you held back with a zip tie) was loose. So I’m hoping that I’m not getting a disconnect and it’ll work if I get that little snap ring on it!?
HELLO DAVID - THANK YOU FOR THESE VIDEOS. YOU MENTIONED IN ONE OF THEM THAT YOU HAD TO REBUILD SOME CONTACT POINTS - DID YOU MAKE A VIDEO OF THAT? IF YOU DID, I’D LIKE TO SEE IT. CAN YOU POINT ME TO IT? THX.
Hi Jim. I haven't made a video showing replacing contacts. It's very tedious working with small items like the points so making a video will be challenging. Some day I will do that.
Dear David I have an old GE that I would like to bring back to life. I live I. Winston Salem NC. Can you help me or at least tell me who would be great at bringing my baby back to life.
Hi Mona. Could you e-mail me? My address is on my channel about page. You'll have to click a button to see it.
my 1947 or 48 fridge died last month . the "modern" (10+years old) replacement that i bought is running almost every time i walk by it . my old one , especially once it got some frost built up , didn't run nearly as much . not looking forward to future power bills .
That's frustrating. Have you tried to investigate what's wrong with the vintage one?
@@davida1hiwaaynet found oil on floor in morning + household breaker tripped + compressor won't run . leak probably near freezer compartment , as oil dripping out bottom , between inner and outer walls . compressor must be locked up . don't know anyone in my area (central nc) to repair it , but still have hope . started removal of mouldings to at least find leak source . asbestos insulation in these ?
Hi Bill. Did you reach out to me once about this already? I seem to remember a Shelvador having this problem? That comment may have been at a time when I was not responding to any comments due to work obligations.
There is zero asbestos anywhere in these refrigerators. It is a high temp insulation, not very good for use in a refrigerator cabinet.
Your problem sounds a little bit like maybe wiring shorted out against the tubing and burned a hole in the lines. That would result in a breaker trip, and let oil leak out.
Have you made proper electrical tests to the compressor with all the cabinet wiring disconnected to be sure it is where the short circuit is located?
@@davida1hiwaaynet thanks . i mentioned it , but not really expecting reply . i assumed by amount of oil on floor , and tripped breaker , that she's locked . haven't checked w/meter yet . i had defrosted (no sharp objects) w/2 plug in defrosters , left them going longer than intended (compartment got too hot to touch) plugged fridge in and went to bed . wondering if it got hot enough to melt line connections , or built enough pressure to burst a line . i don't believe there is any wiring in the area of the leak , and light still works when door is open .
@@billsmith1770
If this is the type of compressor I am thinking from Crosley; it will have about 2 quarts of oil in it. There can be a huge leak before the compressor loses enough to seize up.
I have been working on antique fridges for a while; but haven't seen everything. I can however say that I have never seen overheating an evaporator with defrost heaters cause a broken line. These lines are typically soldered with alloys taking 400°F or more (often a lot more) to melt. Even if the evaporator is overheated, the compressor can only produce a limited amount of pressure, with its capability limited in a way so that it can't cause any lines to burst. The compressor would stall, or reach an equilibrium point before it burst a line.
The only exception to this would be if the evaporator its self was corroded thin and burst. But you would have seen the oil as soon as that happened, and it would have been more in the cabinet interior than in the walls.
The thermostat is located near the evaporator, and it has wiring connected to it. The wiring isn't designed for high temperatures. It is very likely that the cabinet liner got very hot as well as the evaporator. That could have allowed the wiring insulation to soften so that it failed where the wiring ran across the refrigerant lines.
If a breaker tripped, it is likely that the compressor was stopped instantly as soon as the line got a hole in it - if it is a short circuit which caused the leak to appear. You need to measure the resistances of the compressor motor and see what that looks like before thinking about condemning it.
It will be interesting seeing what you find. Would you mind sending me an e-mail? If your compressor is indeed bad, I may have a spare.
Of I send you mine can you repair it for me I have the same Westinghouse fridge 47 year
I can. Please e-mail me davida1@hiwaay.net
There's a possibility it may not even be my relay when I plug in the fridge nothing happened at all no quick no harm no nothing
Replace the compressor with an inverter compressor with low energy consumption and no noise
ROFLMAO!!! Not a chance that throw-away garbage will go in any vintage item I repair.
Surprised he didnt suggest inverter linear….sheesh hopefully he was kidding, not really the point of what we’re into and what your channel is all about. Very nicely done.
@@MrBo-sg6hu Thank you!