Parts used in this video: 500A Relay: amzn.to/3UitGLt on/off switch toggle: amzn.to/49iCghN on/off switch rocker: amzn.to/47UUHYM 6 gang switch panel: amzn.to/3SEIGlG Lug Crimper and cable cutter set: amzn.to/3vWBJnf 30 amp Circuit Tester: amzn.to/42jQZXi These are affiliate links to Amazon. Using these links gives Power Addicts a small commission fee, but it costs you NOTHING ZERO NADDA Not a cent more to use these links. It helps Power Addicts create these videos for you. Thank you for your support!!
I know you already fixed it when you put in the new switch box but I was thinking about your switch selection here... That switch you chose is one you flick on every time you turn on your jeep. I also assume it stays on while the jeep is running... Soooo if you got in a collision, then that big wire to the winch would be hot. I know it doesn't matter 'cause you already fixed it, but my brain wanted to get that thought out. And I didn't see how you put that in, so maybe you only need it to power up the starter and then you shut it right off after the jeep is running. Either way, love your content, love the way you solve problems. Really appreciate you sharing all you do here.
Hey one think you need to look into that was a complete game changer for me arrowhead zipties you only need one hole and press the tie in the hole and tie down your wires or what else and looks clead and perfect replacement for the factory ties on the factory wireing harness
I have a problem with the control arms since I bought it from somebody. The control alarms have factory and after market parts near the one have numbers. What do I do to replace them
Hey. Love your videos. Recently I've been watching all your videos about fuel tanks and filler lines. I've been having an issue at the gas station with only being able to put about 10 dollars into the tank before the gas pump starts to click off. My fill line and vent line are not blocked ( took it all apart to check). I had seen your video about removing the plastic insert on the vent side. Was wondering if maybe I removed the insert on the fill side that maybe it would allow better g a s flow to not kick the pump. And help is appreciated. Thank you.
For some weird reason the shape and position of the YJ filler neck causes the pump to trip off. It is a safety thing that the pump handle senses pressure like gas is spraying back up. Turn the gas pump nozzle a little sideways and it should help. You may have to mess around with what position to hold the pump nozzle to figure out where it works at. Also, sometimes going to a different gas station is the cure because some pumps "pressure sensor" isn't as trip happy as others. Hope that helps!
Did ya get it resolved? I know my YJ can't usually handle the pressure when I squeeze the handle enough to put up that little auto-fill tab. I pretty much always hold it by hand with low pressure and have a decent idea of how many gallons it should take based of the gas guage. If it trips early, I just squeeze again
hey man i ran into a serious issue with my yj 4.0 i can revv it to limiter all day long but the second i put it under load and try pulling off it sputters and backfires and jus generally won’t do over 1500 rpm i’ve changed mutiple parts like ignition coil tps fuel pump fuel filter and the distributor and wires was replaced 3 years ago and i did spark plugs over 2-3 months ago im completely stumped i would really appreciate help i posted it on a 4.0 jeep group and didn’t get any feedback please help
Parts used in this video:
500A Relay: amzn.to/3UitGLt
on/off switch toggle: amzn.to/49iCghN
on/off switch rocker: amzn.to/47UUHYM
6 gang switch panel: amzn.to/3SEIGlG
Lug Crimper and cable cutter set: amzn.to/3vWBJnf
30 amp Circuit Tester: amzn.to/42jQZXi
These are affiliate links to Amazon. Using these links gives Power Addicts a small commission fee, but it costs you NOTHING ZERO NADDA Not a cent more to use these links. It helps Power Addicts create these videos for you. Thank you for your support!!
I know you already fixed it when you put in the new switch box but I was thinking about your switch selection here... That switch you chose is one you flick on every time you turn on your jeep. I also assume it stays on while the jeep is running... Soooo if you got in a collision, then that big wire to the winch would be hot. I know it doesn't matter 'cause you already fixed it, but my brain wanted to get that thought out. And I didn't see how you put that in, so maybe you only need it to power up the starter and then you shut it right off after the jeep is running. Either way, love your content, love the way you solve problems. Really appreciate you sharing all you do here.
Hey one think you need to look into that was a complete game changer for me arrowhead zipties you only need one hole and press the tie in the hole and tie down your wires or what else and looks clead and perfect replacement for the factory ties on the factory wireing harness
Thanks man, I totally forgot about them. I just looked them up on Amazon and placing the order. Thanks for leaving an awesome tip!!
I have a problem with the control arms since I bought it from somebody. The control alarms have factory and after market parts near the one have numbers. What do I do to replace them
Without actually seeing what the issue is I cant have any idea what needs to be done.
Hey. Love your videos. Recently I've been watching all your videos about fuel tanks and filler lines. I've been having an issue at the gas station with only being able to put about 10 dollars into the tank before the gas pump starts to click off. My fill line and vent line are not blocked ( took it all apart to check). I had seen your video about removing the plastic insert on the vent side. Was wondering if maybe I removed the insert on the fill side that maybe it would allow better g a s flow to not kick the pump. And help is appreciated. Thank you.
For some weird reason the shape and position of the YJ filler neck causes the pump to trip off. It is a safety thing that the pump handle senses pressure like gas is spraying back up. Turn the gas pump nozzle a little sideways and it should help. You may have to mess around with what position to hold the pump nozzle to figure out where it works at. Also, sometimes going to a different gas station is the cure because some pumps "pressure sensor" isn't as trip happy as others. Hope that helps!
Thank you. I'm gonna give that a shot. If it is still too bad I might relocate the fill location to the side of the tub. Appreciate the help
Did ya get it resolved? I know my YJ can't usually handle the pressure when I squeeze the handle enough to put up that little auto-fill tab. I pretty much always hold it by hand with low pressure and have a decent idea of how many gallons it should take based of the gas guage. If it trips early, I just squeeze again
hey man i ran into a serious issue with my yj 4.0 i can revv it to limiter all day long but the second i put it under load and try pulling off it sputters and backfires and jus generally won’t do over 1500 rpm i’ve changed mutiple parts like ignition coil tps fuel pump fuel filter and the distributor and wires was replaced 3 years ago and i did spark plugs over 2-3 months ago im completely stumped i would really appreciate help i posted it on a 4.0 jeep group and didn’t get any feedback please help
and my fuel psi is at 21 but when i flip my key i get no pressure at all
So it’s a battery isolating relay
Yep, and it works great for this purpose.