Added rear mudflaps today. You definitely need to do a video about fitting these especially the round captive rivet nuts in the hexagonal holes of the rear cross member.
While you have the splined end removed it's worth pulling the small rubber seal forwards and getting some oil or grease onto the spindle where it fits through the wiper wheel box , replace the seal and the splined end, can make a decent improvement. 👍
I wonder if you could get the chequer plate either removed completely or powder coated black to match the rest of the trim, the shiny aluminium look doesn’t suit it!
It's definately on the list. We're working with Mantec on possibly doing some new wing top plates. That's the only reason we haven't changed them yet. Coming soon...
You could have play in the wheel boxes. Your finished set-up would annoy me, maybe worth dropping the drivers side arm down one spline (or even the passenger side up one). Always better to test with water as you could end up with the blades dropping off the end of the screen. Sorry my lifetime in engineering won't let go!
Get better soon! Thanks for another good video. Just a quick one re the Optimill fuel cap. The original LR lanyard/securing tether doesn’t fit the Optimill cap. Does anyone make a lanyard that would fit? One drop of the Optimill fuel cap on the forecourt would make it look terrible…
Some good mods here, I have ordered the front flap seal kit in the hope that it will stop me getting wet feet! I wish my rear door strut kit was a easy to close as your one, I notice that you can close the door with just one hand! We have 35 des here and it is still a 2 hand and body weight job to close, I wonder what it will be like in winter? And yes, it is fitted correctly, I have yet to weld on a 3rd bolt position to stop the flex on the door bracket, I can only assume mine came with an extra strong strut. Get well soon! Chris B.
Thanks Chris. It's strange your strut is performing differently. Its a shame you're so far away as I'd suggest sending it to me to check and possibly replace.
@@LRLiveUK Well! The flap seals arrived today, so that is something positive, the strut I am sure is a strut strength problem, it really is not worth returning it now we have the brexit problem, the cost would make it not viable, I will fit my extra welded on outrigger device and will have to put on a bit more weight to overcome the strut. Get well soon! Chris B.
Hope you're better. Your thumbnail pic shows a hi-lift jack fitted to the spare wheel. Do you sell an adapter for such install? I had to return a FR hi-lift chassis adapter I bought from LR due to my swing out spare wheel carrier preventing install 😩
Is it possible to do an episode on the best radio head unit and back up camera? I have a 1999 130 truck and am searching for the best options. Thank you.
Could you do a video on fitting an additional fuse box, to run lights to Carling switches on the dash. Currently have a mud light swith housing on my Puma lights work but the small lights that come on with sidelights aren't working as can't find a switched live. I changed my cig lighter for a double USB so can't see where switched live is I have tried radio white with green trace but again no luck. Need an additional fuse box as my battery compartment is a bit of a mess with winch, dual battery wiring (second battery in pick up bed) three light harnesses with fuses and relays and feeds for compressor.
Sounds like you'eve got a lot going on in there. I will be putting an additional fuse box in, in the future. And building a portable split charge power pack. Cheers
Have sorted out the lights on the switches with a fuse tap but now trying to pre wire for a roof led light bar with a position marker light so that's a headache wiring a contura switch having now sussed out the basic on and off version.
That bonnet gap is a disaster - you are kidding yourself if you think that is acceptable - how does it latch at the front?. Obviously they are not fit for purpose and the originals looked much better.
Actually that's an improvement on factory. The buffers allow a lot of movement, so if the shut lines are too close the panels will rub and contact - especially off road.
Added rear mudflaps today. You definitely need to do a video about fitting these especially the round captive rivet nuts in the hexagonal holes of the rear cross member.
While you have the splined end removed it's worth pulling the small rubber seal forwards and getting some oil or grease onto the spindle where it fits through the wiper wheel box , replace the seal and the splined end, can make a decent improvement. 👍
Cheers Fraser - useful stuff. Get well soon. S.
Thanks 👍
I wonder if you could get the chequer plate either removed completely or powder coated black to match the rest of the trim, the shiny aluminium look doesn’t suit it!
It's definately on the list. We're working with Mantec on possibly doing some new wing top plates. That's the only reason we haven't changed them yet. Coming soon...
You could have play in the wheel boxes. Your finished set-up would annoy me, maybe worth dropping the drivers side arm down one spline (or even the passenger side up one). Always better to test with water as you could end up with the blades dropping off the end of the screen. Sorry my lifetime in engineering won't let go!
You're right. I need to go back to them and perfect the resting point!
Get better soon! Thanks for another good video. Just a quick one re the Optimill fuel cap. The original LR lanyard/securing tether doesn’t fit the Optimill cap. Does anyone make a lanyard that would fit? One drop of the Optimill fuel cap on the forecourt would make it look terrible…
Thats a good point. I'm going to have to be super careful!
Some good mods here, I have ordered the front flap seal kit in the hope that it will stop me getting wet feet! I wish my rear door strut kit was a easy to close as your one, I notice that you can close the door with just one hand! We have 35 des here and it is still a 2 hand and body weight job to close, I wonder what it will be like in winter? And yes, it is fitted correctly, I have yet to weld on a 3rd bolt position to stop the flex on the door bracket, I can only assume mine came with an extra strong strut. Get well soon! Chris B.
Thanks Chris. It's strange your strut is performing differently. Its a shame you're so far away as I'd suggest sending it to me to check and possibly replace.
@@LRLiveUK Well! The flap seals arrived today, so that is something positive, the strut I am sure is a strut strength problem, it really is not worth returning it now we have the brexit problem, the cost would make it not viable, I will fit my extra welded on outrigger device and will have to put on a bit more weight to overcome the strut. Get well soon! Chris B.
Lol, wipers coming to a rest. Mine rest where they stop when I turn them off 😂
Hope you're better. Your thumbnail pic shows a hi-lift jack fitted to the spare wheel. Do you sell an adapter for such install? I had to return a FR hi-lift chassis adapter I bought from LR due to my swing out spare wheel carrier preventing install 😩
I don't think we do one - I can't recall where that was from now sorry.
Do you have the part number for the left hand drive LRC2525? I really liked the Bosch version.
www.lrparts.net/lrc2526-wiper-arm-adaptor-and-blade-kit-for-land-rover-defender-left-hand-drive-fits-vehicles-1984-2001-standard-or-bosch-blade-option-oem-equipment-part.html
Is it possible to do an episode on the best radio head unit and back up camera? I have a 1999 130 truck and am searching for the best options. Thank you.
Yep, this is something we'll be doing in the next few weeks.
Could you do a video on fitting an additional fuse box, to run lights to Carling switches on the dash. Currently have a mud light swith housing on my Puma lights work but the small lights that come on with sidelights aren't working as can't find a switched live. I changed my cig lighter for a double USB so can't see where switched live is I have tried radio white with green trace but again no luck. Need an additional fuse box as my battery compartment is a bit of a mess with winch, dual battery wiring (second battery in pick up bed) three light harnesses with fuses and relays and feeds for compressor.
Sounds like you'eve got a lot going on in there. I will be putting an additional fuse box in, in the future. And building a portable split charge power pack. Cheers
Have sorted out the lights on the switches with a fuse tap but now trying to pre wire for a roof led light bar with a position marker light so that's a headache wiring a contura switch having now sussed out the basic on and off version.
That bonnet gap is a disaster - you are kidding yourself if you think that is acceptable - how does it latch at the front?. Obviously they are not fit for purpose and the originals looked much better.
Actually that's an improvement on factory. The buffers allow a lot of movement, so if the shut lines are too close the panels will rub and contact - especially off road.