Thanks from another Spud (6B). I did pretty much the same routine today on a Grand Design 2670MK. In the past I had used the built-in suction line at the pump to winterize cold/hot water supply lines and fixtures with the pink antifreeze (Propylene Glycol?). This year I switched-over to simply air with PG in the P-traps. The only mod I might suggest is to bypass the water heater _after_ giving it a blast of air in order to clear that lower supply line. I don't know that that's a big deal, though, depending on orientation of said supply line. Also, if there's a black tank flush line, it might be good to give that thing a shot of air with the black tank drain valve open (don't wanna pressurize the poo tank).
Never understood the reasoning behind the low point lines, because if you are pressurizing the lines there shouldn’t be any thing in them. I thought the shower drain had a hole opened up in it for a snake or something. It was just hair. I was waiting for him to grab it and see how long it was. I did that in my bathroom drain in the house one time and that thing just kept coming. Anyway excellent job and video. Thanks for sharing.
😎 Awesome Video! 👍👍👍 🤔 The bottom video link at the end, is not a backing trailer by yourself. It’s a vid of you replacing your truck headlights. 😉 just an FYI.
during this video, and many others i've referenced, it mentioned that the inside water heater needs to be bypassed...couple of things...is this separate from the water heater you emptied on the front of the camper and i'm not sure my small camper even has at all...can anyone provide any help here?
If your purging lines with air, no need to close bypass, just drain the heater and blow the lines. If your filling your lines with antifreeze, drain the heater, then close bypass, then fill the lines. By closing bypass this will prevent wasting antifreeze filling up the heater which should be empty anyway. Bypass should be behind a panel somewhere but varies on model. Mine was panel underneath stove. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@IdahoReloader i did find the panel in an unexpected spot and mine does have the hot/cold and bypass valves...my question then is, in your video i thought you closed the bypass around the 5:40 mark, correct...but are telling me that is an unnecessary step? this is the first time i've tried this after many years of antifreeze being put in at a different location. any tips on getting rid of the sulfur smell in the hot water? that one has been plaguing us for a few years now. regardless, thanks for the info.
It keeps any water from getting blown back into the heater. It wouldn't be enough to cause any worry though, or you can leave the drain plug out of the heater until your done purging.
@@scottbreden4207-search Rotten egg smell in RV and like. You will get a number of excellent videos that explain why it stinks and what to do about it!
This is the only video I have found that shows a heater with only one valve like mine. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped
So simple. Other videos are way to complicated! This will be my first time doing this on my micro minnie winnebago
Thanks from another Spud (6B). I did pretty much the same routine today on a Grand Design 2670MK. In the past I had used the built-in suction line at the pump to winterize cold/hot water supply lines and fixtures with the pink antifreeze (Propylene Glycol?). This year I switched-over to simply air with PG in the P-traps. The only mod I might suggest is to bypass the water heater _after_ giving it a blast of air in order to clear that lower supply line. I don't know that that's a big deal, though, depending on orientation of said supply line. Also, if there's a black tank flush line, it might be good to give that thing a shot of air with the black tank drain valve open (don't wanna pressurize the poo tank).
Never understood the reasoning behind the low point lines, because if you are pressurizing the lines there shouldn’t be any thing in them. I thought the shower drain had a hole opened up in it for a snake or something. It was just hair. I was waiting for him to grab it and see how long it was. I did that in my bathroom drain in the house one time and that thing just kept coming. Anyway excellent job and video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for making this video, very helpful.
Good video, thanks
Thank you! Very helpful!
good to the point no pink stuff needed in lines
😎 Awesome Video! 👍👍👍
🤔 The bottom video link at the end, is not a backing trailer by yourself. It’s a vid of you replacing your truck headlights. 😉 just an FYI.
Cool thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you!
I drain gray tank after blowing out lines then add antifreeze.
What about your black tank cleanout? Some campers have that option.
Those lines don't hold water so no need. Those flushes are worthless anyway. Better off filling the blank tank with fresh water and draining it again.
during this video, and many others i've referenced, it mentioned that the inside water heater needs to be bypassed...couple of things...is this separate from the water heater you emptied on the front of the camper and i'm not sure my small camper even has at all...can anyone provide any help here?
If your purging lines with air, no need to close bypass, just drain the heater and blow the lines. If your filling your lines with antifreeze, drain the heater, then close bypass, then fill the lines. By closing bypass this will prevent wasting antifreeze filling up the heater which should be empty anyway. Bypass should be behind a panel somewhere but varies on model. Mine was panel underneath stove. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@IdahoReloader i did find the panel in an unexpected spot and mine does have the hot/cold and bypass valves...my question then is, in your video i thought you closed the bypass around the 5:40 mark, correct...but are telling me that is an unnecessary step? this is the first time i've tried this after many years of antifreeze being put in at a different location. any tips on getting rid of the sulfur smell in the hot water? that one has been plaguing us for a few years now. regardless, thanks for the info.
It keeps any water from getting blown back into the heater. It wouldn't be enough to cause any worry though, or you can leave the drain plug out of the heater until your done purging.
@@scottbreden4207-search Rotten egg smell in RV and like. You will get a number of excellent videos that explain why it stinks and what to do about it!
You might want to flush your toilet too, to get rid of any water in the flush line.
He did @8:58...
Who wants to see you taking half an hour to drain your water heater!!Bad all the way around!