Paraffin / kerosene / petrole heater: E4 Error (E0-E4) - Easy Fix
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- Опубліковано 14 січ 2017
- NEW VERSION WITH SUBTITLES: • Paraffin kerosene petr...
Update on results: After cleaning the flame rod, my heater burns better.
Easy servicing and correcting E4 (also E0, E1, E2, E3, errors) on liquid fuel burning heaters - of type: mobile or portable indoor stove, paraffin heater, kerosene heater, chauffage à pétrole, poêle à pétrole électronique, radiateur, BPE 367, Squall, Japanese heater, Stove, corona, senseair, 2000xx_5, error codes, e0, e1, e2, e3, e4, e5, e6, e7, e8, e9, Inverter heater, 3001, 3002, 3003, 3004, 3005, 3006, 3007, 3008, 3009, 4001, 4002, 4003, 4004, 4005, 4006, 4007, 4008, 4009, 5001, 5002, 5003, 5004, 5005, 5006, 5007, 5008, 5009, 6001, 6002, 6003, 6004, 6005, 6006, 6007, 6008, 6009, 7001, 7002, 7003, 7004, 7005, 7006, 7007, 7008, 7009, 8001, 8002, 8003, 8004, 8005, 8006, 8007, 8008, 8009, 9001, 9002, 9003, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007, 9008, 9009, - Наука та технологія
Thanks for posting this vid. A friend gave me his 'broken' (E4 problem) heater yesterday as it was going to the déchetterie. Took me 10 mins to take apart, 2 mins to clean the flame rod and fix a small split in the rubber air pipe, then 10 mins to put back together. The machine now works perfectly. Thanks again.
Great story jj.
Thanks for sharing :D
One thing is for sure... a visit to the déchetterie can be like 'free shopping'.
I recently visited my local déchetterie to dump some stuff.
My reward was an air compressor, that required an €11 spend.
I know, I know... we shouldn't pull stuff out of the skip.
But it was just there... I couldn't resist the temptation.
... and, by repairing it... this is the best recyclage :)
Thank you very much!, it has been a great help, the error e4 has finally disappeared
That's good news Hernán.
Thanks for the feedback :)
Brilliant followed all your instructions and worked brilliantly well done.
Just fixed the battery powered one as well get in there
Haha ... great news ... get in there Tony!
:)
Your explanation was absolutely fantastic! You've helped me a ton, thank you
Thanks for the kind feedback :)
Very good video. I fixed this method my E4 error. Big thanks
Wonderful news... just as the cold weather is coming :)
Great videos,i have inverter 5086 UK,3200 W,standart.Just clean from back ventilator all dirt.Working.i hope problem sorted
muchas gracias funciono 100% gracias
Excellent work.. you should be a teacher👍🏽
Very good video big thanks
You are very welcome Nedal.
Thanks for commenting and subscribing :)
great very useful thanks
big thanks
You are very welcome.
Stay warm :)
Thank you for posting this and other videos, they're extremely helpful. I've just bought a used Tayosan and given it a quick strip down and clean (no fault codes) with your guidance. I've noticed with mine that there's an electrical humming noise from within the machine even when switched off on the control panel. Obviously unplugging it deals with the noise but I'm curious to know if you experience this humming noise on your version of the heater? All the best to you :)
Ah yes ... the modern ON/OFF switch (which isn't)
It is so ubiquitous, that we all can easily forget that the devices are still powered ON.
The best option is to use the socket switch, or pull the plug.
Otherwise, the power is feeding the transformer - which reduces the voltage down to whatever the circuit board requires - typically for consumer products ranging from 12V down to 3.5V.
In some cases we get lucky, and the sound of a humming transformer alerts us to the hole in our pocket.
You got lucky, Ross :D
To reduce the hum, ensure that it is well mounted ... think about the heater resonating in tune with the transformer, and work against it :)
@@EngineTuning much appreciated Sir, I'll follow you advice and simply unplug or switch it off at the socket. I have it sat on a piece of thick pile carpet so it's as quiet as it's gonna get I reckon. Thanks again pal :)
I thank you for this information. In general terms I would say this kind of heater need a yearly maintenance and also the most important to filtrate the kerosene through a funnel listed by UL and/or EU norms. I use a Mr. Funnel unit with good results.
Kind regards
Santiago de Chile the southern capital of the world
Thanks Dario for sharing your thoughts and experience :)
@@EngineTuning I also use a Mister Funnel with my 5006 Inverter Heater. I have used the Mister Funnel from the beginning - I have now been heating my downstairs rooms for four years. I use what is known in the UK as Kerosene, or twenty-eight second heating oil, the use of which invalidates the guarantee. I have never had a moment's trouble with this fuel, and have saved considerably on the cost of Grade One Paraffin.
@@davidmaddaford930 Yes, it will burn, and it's great that you have had no problems.
However, the kerosene is less refined, and therefore as a matter of chemistry, the fumes contain higher levels of toxic elements.
Hence why it is designated as an oil for burning with a vented flue.
To ameliorate this, you can add 1% acetone to the fuel ... it will clean up the combustion, and burn slightly hotter.
A hotter burn eliminates more of the toxicity.
(I use it with the high grade paraffin to get an even higher boost) ;)
Personally,
@@EngineTuning Thanks for the reply and thanks for the instructions on how to clean and service these heaters. I feel more confident about servicing it myself after watching your video. I have had it serviced once previously at the dealer from whom I purchased it, but with the unprecedented conditions which continue to prevail I think that I shall have to do a self-service.
@@davidmaddaford930 Go for it :D
What can I say didn’t think a bit off wire wool would sort my E4 shutting down problem
Got quoted £80 for a service but after watching your video I took the plunge and got the screwdriver out
Thank you very much
That's a great inspirational story Tom.
Thanks for sharing :)
Hi there. Really good video, very well explained.
I had the e03 error (no flame) and after exploring every posible scenario, we realized that the problem was the sparker: it doesn't work. The paraffin gets heated normally, turns into gas, but that's it, it doesn't get lit. We tried throwing a lit matchstick into the heater when the gas started flowing out and it worked wonderfully. So yeah, the problem is the sparker.
Don't really want to open the spark generator so we'll buy a new one and install it. I'm just wondering if any AC220v spark generator would work or if it needs certain specifications. Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything about the KSP152 my KERONA heater uses.
Any help or commentary would be greatly appreciated.
Good error report Javier :)
It is difficult to diagnose such a problem.
I would first clean and remake all the wiring connections, and clean the sparker rod and grill.
If a component has failed, the choice is clear...
Repair the component; buy the correct replacement; or launch into a development project, and add your own spark generator.
Good luck with this :)
@@EngineTuning We did clean the sparker rod and the flame rod, just in case.
We checked the electronic board and the connector that goes to the spark generator does supply 225vac, no problem. We also verified the generator's ground is connected to mass, so the problem has to be the generator.
We'll see if we can find an affordable replacement or something (will see about making one). The winter is coming in a couple of months here in Chile, so we gotta be prepared.
If and when we get it fixed I'll comment an update on this.
Anyway, thanks for the help, the video was a good starting point to find the fault.
Hello, I bought one of these heaters a few years ago, as a back up heater. Then decided to use it now because of recent gas price increases. I thought I would be the clever one, by only using "Ultra Low Sulphur" paraffin. I got one trouble free winter use out of it, now it has died in the second winter with E0 and E04 errors. Probably because I used the heater on minimum heat for a while. I now believe that these heaters must be cleaned and serviced every year, regardless of the fuel used. Something they don't tell you when you buy one.
I'm surprised that you only got one season out of it, but I agree with your conclusion re the setting to minimum heat.
Add 0.5% acetone to each refill.
This should help ensure a clean blue burn, whilst set to minimum.
(Obviously, this raises the heat output) ;)
I buy Paraffin Extra online from a company that sells the Corona heaters, as it is about the same price delivered, as buying local standard paraffin. Last winter I burnt 64 litres. This year I managed 48 litres. Then for a week or so, I was getting the E4 error code on start up, but it would burn if I did an immediate restart. I cleaned the filter which did not look dirty. No difference. So I ran the last 4 litres at full power to see if that would clear it. Then I refilled it again. I am now getting a mix of E0 and E4 codes when I light it. If it does start after a couple of tries, it only runs for a 10 minutes, and stops with an E0 or E4 code. @@EngineTuning
@@corringhamdepot4434
You could try it with acetone first.
Maybe the flame rod would clean up.
Otherwise you will need to manually clean the flame rod.
With the front grill off; let the heater get to full temp, and look at the flame ... there should be no yellow flames.
Then lower the temp, checking the flame colour as you go.
*Update on results: After cleaning the flame rod, my heater burns better* (read more)
Easy Servicing and correcting E4 (typical E errors) on liquid fuel burning heaters - of type: stove, paraffin heater, kerosene heater, chauffage à pétrole, poêle à pétrole électronique, BPE 367, Squall, Japanese heater.
My heater did not have an E error, when making this video.
However, you will see me clean up the flame rod, and brush out the gasifier.
Previously if I set the temperature to 14... it would raise the temperature to 15
I guessed that it was burning at the minimum setting.
However, after assembly, the heater ran perfectly at 14 degrees, when set to 14, and no fumes at all.
The actual room temperature is probably 16 but the heater is in a fireplace under a chimney, so the temperature sensor is more exposed to the cold fresh air being pulled through the heater.
Obviously, it could get the workshop cooking, but with normal winter clothing, I don't want it hot.
Having it on a very low setting, means that the fuel lasts much longer.
So if your heater struggles at it's low settings.... this fix is likely to sort that problem.
:)
How often need do service on those heaters?Before cuts off?.Thanks in adventure.
It depends upon the fuel that you are using.
If you are using high grade (C1) fuel, that is specifically sold for portable indoor heaters, they may function fine for multiple seasons, without a serious service.
This can be improved by adding 1% acetone to fuel.
This will cause the burn to be cleaner, and deliver more heat.
What you should do, at the end of each season, is remove the fuel, and cover the heater in some old cotton sheets, to stabilise humidity.
If you are using heating oil or kerosene, designed for vented systems; you must add acetone, and you may need to service the heater each season.
Check out this video discussing the different fuels:
ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html
Whats about hh error ?
Hi and thanks for posting the video it is excellent. My question to you is have you ever had a problem with it beeping and the oil light coming on then shortly after shuts down. Now I know this is when it is running out of fuel, but mine does it when there is plenty of fuel left in, and it won't start again because it must think the fuel has run out even though its not. I have fiddled with the float in the tank but no luck it still won't run. Have you any advice or help you could share with me please. Thank you and I look forward to your response.
Hi Gaz, that's a new one on me.
It is most likely going to be the float switch, or the cable connections between it and the board
@@EngineTuning
Hi and thank you for your reply. I have checked the float switch and all the cables and they seem fine. I have noticed when you lift the fuel tank in and out you can hear a bubbling noise and after about 5 or 6 times the oil light goes out and the heater works again for a couple of hours. Could it be the fuel tank lid as I have noticed some corrosion in the fuel tank, my thoughts are maybe a blocked breather in the lid. What are your thoughts on this.
@@gaztomm5741 That's first class analytical thinking Gaz.
Yes, a vacuum could be the cause of the problem.
Somehow I doubt it, but the thinking is correct.
The bubbling noise is typical to these heaters, and it means that the fuel is entering the fixed reservoir.
When you checked the switch, did you meter it, to confirm that the circuit goes open and closed.
When the float is up, note whether the circuit is open or closed.
Obv when the float is down, it will be the opposite.
Meter this on/off movement a few times to confirm switch stability.
Ensure that the float is empty, ie. not punctured and containing fuel.
ie. that the float is floating :D
You need to fully understand this circuit, and the mechanical components that impact upon the actuation of the circuit.
I don't know what your board voltage is.
Perhaps 5v, 3v, or 12v.
The board registers a switched condition, when either it sees a voltage at the connector, or it doesn't.
eg.
5v = 1
0v = 0
or vice versa
Meaning, if there is 5v between the connector and ground, the system switches on (there is fuel).
If 0v the system switches off.
Thanks for the effort to make this video's.
After cleaning the air and petrol filters ,i even cleaned the pump(delicate with the small springs inside) i still got e9 error(google tells me this is the pump or filter).
I get fuel from the pump to the burner,but the damn thing burns 2min and stops with the error.
I replaced the burner wick (pasted with special glue) ,but it worked ok for 2 weeks before this problem .Any ideas?
Bad news indeed Sonny.
It's so hard to say, because another fault may cause a fault that gives the error.
A bit like a blocked air filter on an engine could make it run rich... but also if the jet is too large, but also if the choke is stuck on etc.
The flame rod might have failed... but I can't see why.
If you've watched Porky's video... he talks about the flame rod failing, and needing to get new ones.
You are probably gonna have to think outside the box.
What about running it in the open state (like I have it in the video).
You say it runs for two minutes.
That's a major clue.
It means a number of things (potentially).
Fuel not leaving the reservoir... so it runs out of fuel.
The flame rod not in the flame.
A bad wiring connection somewhere.... check all connections.
Stuff like that.
The fact that it will run, means that it works.
Something is telling it to stop working, or it runs out of fuel.
Oh yes.... the big question is... did it work when you put it away last winter?
I had a sensor fail, while it was just sat there (the CO2 sensor vid).
Let's hope that you discover the cause.... then you can tell us.
Good luck, and report back :)
Thanks for the reply.
Well i opened the burner ,to find again lots off carbon buildup around and under the needle that comes in the burner(injector).That was the reason i replaced the wick and cleaned the burner 3 weeks ago.
So asuming this is a pump problem ,if i start it with the injector disconected it drips,dont know if this is normal ,or should there be some pressure to shoot it out of the needle in the middle of the wick? The petrol seems to be collecting under the needle.
I think its time for a new heater ,the burner was already damaged a bit by the carbon after cleaning last time.hate to use this if i am not sure about safety.
Yes, sometimes you have to give up, due to time constraints.
These faults can absorb your entire existence :(
I have a problem in the corona greenhouse and E4-E0 give what solution, please
Hi Zedon :)
Watch the video ... clean the flame rod.
This usually solves the problem ;)
Can these be converted to run on 12v?
I have never thought about a battery as a source.
The key is to monitor the energy requirement during start procedure, when the combustion chamber is being heated.
Fans also kick in, but it will be the heater that draws the most current.
It's an interesting concept, but from a practical point of view, you could easily go down the high tech wick route.
They are not as adjustable as the inverter, but they are reliable, and kick out a shed load of heat ;)
Do keep everybody informed, if you proceed with your project :)
On the last part you took off the well with the 2 holes in the brass coloured gauze(primary grill), do they line up with the burner and igniter? Mine don't line up 100% is what made me ask, Only bit i couldn't see properly, cheers.
You need to tag the time eg. 6:43
The mesh gasifier top, has an arrow to align with the sparker 8:13
@@EngineTuning it's at 9.11 in the primary grill there are lots of smaller holes but 2 larger holes, should they be lined up to igniter and burner or does it mater? if mines don't line up could the burner or igniter be offline, possibly I'm thinking.
@@socrates470BCE I can't see any issues :(
hi great vid however after cleaning flame rod heater runs fine e 4 fault gone until it gets to temperature the e 4 fault again if I raise temp to 30 it will run all day ,could this be faulty flame rod ?
It's a question that probably relates to the heater history.
You need to state if it ran fine last year.
Was this the first start of the year?
Were you starting it with the fuel that was left in the reservoir, from last winter?
What is the fuel that you are (were) using?
... home heating oil, or high grade portable heater fuel?
Where you live can also help, vis a vis available quality fuel, and altitude.
Well done, for cleaning the flame rod ... but we are now at the analysis phase, and that requires information.
Subscribe to the channel, and click the bell to accept notifications, because I am now preparing some new videos for you (I'm pausing on that task, to answer your question)
:)
Hi thanks for the reply , yes it ran fine last year and it wasn't the first start up of the year ,been running fine for about 8 weeks now, then it started going to e4 .That's when I watched your video and serviced the heater as shown ,put all back together and heater ran fine, no more e4 but when it reaches temperature say 22 it goes to e4 and shuts down .So I raised the temperature to 30 (the room wont get to 30) and heater will run all day fine .heater running on new fuel (kerocine) and filtered through mr funnel .Hope this helps thanks .
Yes, that was definitely the information required to enable a quick analysis.
There may be a slight drift in the sensors, or related equipment.
This might be within tolerance, if the high grade fuel (specifically refined for indoor heaters) was being used.
However, with the lower grade fuel ... it burns at a lower temperature, AND, combustion is less complete.
this causes solid deposits to build up on the flame rod, and combustion chamber.
This is a known fault, as witnessed by multiple reports across this heater series of videos.
By cleaning these components, you eliminated this problem, but the cause still remains.
I have now developed a solution for you.
The vid will be published this week, followed by an in depth explanation.
Anyway, I guess that you will be happy with just the solution.
Buy some acetone.
The more you buy, the cheaper it is.
Last week I restocked and got 5 litres for €15.
At a 1% mix, this will treat 500 litres of fuel.
At 2% - 250 litres.
Therefore, the cost is insignificant.
Try it first at 1%.
IE. 50ml added to the 5 litre reservoir.
Don't worry about this being such a small quantity ... I'll explain everything in the vid.
For easy, and relatively immediate testing:
Clip your siphon tube flat at the end, remove the fuel filter (ua-cam.com/video/tKpzPCLnhuw/v-deo.html)
Pump as much of the fuel as you can, out of the fixed reservoir.
Replace the filter, and the reservoir with the treated fuel.
Remove the cover, and start the heater.
Take it to hottest temp for 20 minutes, from time to time, checking the flame.
Compare this to the flame that you have now.
Also feel the increase in produced heat.
Once you are satisfied that the new mix is burning nicely, you can then lower the temperature by one degree below the stated air temp.
You'll hear the burn process drop.
Check the flame.
If all is well, drop the temp setting substantially.
You should hear a bigger drop in the burning.
Obviously check the flame, and see if it keeps alive.
Take it down to the minimum temp, which is usually below what the heater can drop to.
It should be able to cope with this.
If the flame is not looking good IE too much yellow, you may need to up your mix.
You could take it to 1.5%, and then 2% if needed.
The big gain was in the first 1% ... as you add more, you also gain, but you've already had your big boost.
Please make sure that you report back with your results.
I need kerosene results because I'm using C1 grade paraffin (ua-cam.com/video/dRmrEOBsEDw/v-deo.html)
:)
hi ive followed your advice and added the acetone and im pleaded to report the heater is working perfect again :) ,would you advise I use c1 grade paraffin in the future ?. Thanks for your help .
Thanks Robyne for following my advice, and acting quickly :)
(some people talk, some people 'act' )
Great news, and excellent feedback.
Thanks for taking the time.
While I knew that this solution would work...
Having physical confirmation is very important.
From your response, it is not clear what fuel you used with the Acetone
Please confirm the fuel that you used.
Was it kerosene + Acetone
or
C1 + Acetone
Also confirm the approximate mix of Acetone to fuel (please).
Regarding your question
"would you advise I use C1 grade paraffin in the future" ?
These heaters are designed to burn C1.
'Designed' means that, a metered quantity of fuel is injected, to match the quantity of air that is pushed into the combustion chamber (the fuel/air mixture).
The control system is not highly intelligent - rather, it is 'a bit intelligent'.
It knows that if you ask for a certain temperature ... it must inject a certain amount of fuel, and the fan driven air supply adjusts.
If you ask for a higher temperature, it delivers more fuel, and more air.
(you can hear the fan speed rise or fall, according to temperature request)
If the temperature sensor is functioning correctly, and if the fuel has the specified volatility (C1)...
The fuel and air burns perfectly.
BTW imagine trying to light kerosene with a flame ... compared to petrol (don't try this!)
The kerosene might light ... the petrol will definitely explode ;)
That's volatility!
Now imagine ... instead of C1, the fuel that you are using has a lower volatility (kerosene)
The heater computer doesn't know this.
It injects the fuel quantity, as if it was C1 fuel.
... but it isn't.
The combustion temperature is too low for kerosene (if it is to burn correctly).
So it burns, but the combustion is not complete.
Okay ... the temperature goes up, but the computer sees that, and again, injects the wrong quantity.
This means that the fuel/air mix is never correct.
... and poor combustion results in pollutants and deposits around the combustion chamber.
But ... by adding Acetone, the kerosene can combust easier - it mimics C1 fuel.
Therefore, by adding Acetone, your heater combustion can function correctly, even though you are using a lower grade fuel.
Have I explained that well?
What happens when Acetone is added to C1 ?
The fuel/air mix must also be wrong (yes?)
Ha!
The difference is that this mix is going in the right direction for us.
The combustion is hotter ... we hit our requested temperature quicker
... and the fuel supply is reduced earlier (because we have already hit our required temperature)
Therefore:
- Less fuel is used
- Combustion is more complete (it was already good with C1)
- The combustion chamber remains clean
BINGO!
The kickback is that less fuel is used, and the heater can run at lower temperatures - great for smaller spaces, like my workshop.
It's win, win, win.
The only concerns are:
- Fuel price
- Pollutants
Be aware that kerosene contains more pollutants (normally vented outside the home).
With Acetone, combustion will be improved, but I have no knowledge of the effect on the air borne pollutants.
Logically, the situation will be better, but I cannot state by how much.
My advice is to find the cheapest source of the highest grade of fuel.
However, I do know that in many countries, you have no choice
... or C1 is just ridiculously expensive.
In such cases ... please add Acetone to the fuel (oil).
You will save money, stay warm, keep the heater clean, and possibly (logically) breath cleaner air.
... Report back with confirmation of the fuel you used, and the Acetone mix (please).
:)
Thanks! My inverter 5000 work better !
Great news Julien :)
I'm about to go at my inverter heater 5086 3.2kw tomorrow after being plagued with E4 error last few weeks .
Hope I can fix it .
You can ;)
:)
@@EngineTuning I think I did it :) it works fine even better heat .although the machine was different than the one shown with a bit of patience it was straight forward .
You sir may have saved me buying a new one or paying hundreds to fix it .
Thank you so much for posting this video .
@@conegan630 Nice work Con :)
There are many models - some are exactly the same, whilst others are broadly the same, but with perhaps slightly different programming.
You obviously sussed it.
So you win that sense of achievement.
Nice!
E4 error back again I'm afraid is there a way to get at the pump maybe .
I'm resigned to buying a new heater is say .
400e is a nice hit to the pocket
😭
@@conegan630 Clearly, something isn't right.
However, you did fix the problem.
That fact must anchor your thinking.
Strict logic must be employed!
While we can all accept the existence of Pixies and Elves, playing mischief while we sleep...
We have to question whether they are such a set of twats, that they will undo something that was already 'well tight'?
My thinking is that
a) Something loose made a good connection, when you serviced the heater.
The Pixies simply waggled it a bit, in order for it to loose it's connection.
Such an event has been part of male life since the arrival of complex machinery.
The responses have always been the same:
Hit the system semi-gently with a hammer
OR
Work your way through the system, ensuring that everything is tight, and correct.
b) There was water impurity in the fuel that was perhaps reintroduced, prior to the post-service failure.
Determine precisely what occurred prior to the 2nd failure.
OR there always remained the impurity, waiting for it's chance to take effect.
In such cases, you should seriously consider adding acetone to the fuel, at around 1%.
Don't forget the fixed reservoir.
1% gets the job done, but you can always add a bit to the fixed reservoir as well (it doesn't matter if you add a higher percentage of acetone, it's just that there will be no additional benefit).
Buying a water filter funnel, will help eliminate this potential problem.
:)
Error E-0 where to look for the cause? fuses and switch are operational
I'm guessing that the fuel is not fresh?
... maybe the first start of the season?
:)
I have corona heater
Eroo e 0...
What the problem.. Please help
Bad fuel.
Empty the fixed reservoir.
Restart with fresh new fuel.
@@EngineTuning just like that fixed
Bad fuel....OK thank you
how to fix E9
Your heater has been knocked.
Place it on a flat surface, and cycle through the start procedure, until it starts correctly.
I don't know how many times; maybe 3 to 5 times.
Let us know how many times it took.
:)
I have 2 the same. hear sound but does not light up. The fan doesn't want to spin either. I cleaned everything according to your videos. The other one looks dead but only flashes red when I press a key owzo annoying this
Failure is hard to bear; particularly after substantial effort :(
Are you have Facebook account
Hi, i don't have any message error, but it don't want to get on....
The clock works, and that's it, just don't come on...
What can be the problem?
Thanks for your support.
I don't know, because it could anything ... even the switch. In truth, you need an electronics technician, or a technician that is experienced with these heaters.
Sorry that I can't help
HH error
How I can solve this problem?
Please helpe me to solve HH error
HH error code?
I have not seen this code.
Precisely, what heater do you have?
@@EngineTuning corona heater japan
I don't know what the HH error code indicates.
Perhaps it is EH ?
@@EngineTuning HH AND SOUND BEEEEB
I have not come across this error code.
Consequently, you need to tell me the error circumstances.
Is this the first start of the season?
When was the heater last used?
Are you starting the heater with old fuel?
When does the error occur?
... by this I mean : You plug it in, and press the start button
... what happens next (passage of time)?
*Other than that, you should :*
- Drain the fuel tank into an empty container
- Clean the fuel filter
- Using the tube syphon, pump out as much of the old fuel as possible from the fixed fuel tank (beneath the filter)
- Refill the fuel tank with newly purchased fuel (the correct grade).
.... be careful not to take the water that is often at the bottom of the purchased fuel container.
(It could be that you have water in the heater system)
Make sure that the heater is level.
Try starting the heater repeatedly - start - error -switch off - start etc. (repeat six times)
If it finally starts, you can gradually mix the old fuel with the new, each time it needs a refill.
You can also buy a litre of acetone, and add 50ml of Acetone to 5 Lt of fuel.
This will absorb any water, and the fuel will burn cleaner and hotter (so it pays for itself).
You can also buy a funnel with a water filter.
If these steps don't work, then you will need to service the heater.
See this play list ua-cam.com/play/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa.html
You will need to follow the 'Easy Fix' video.
Good luck ... report back ;)
I get the Error "Ed " code
LOL that's a new one :)
Try searching for a manual for your heater model.
:)
@@EngineTuning There is nothing about that in the manual. Its a Tayosan SRE 3001 and maybe its a Temperature error because outside temperature is 30°C. I will try it again the late afternoon.
@@luckyx3ktm01 If the error code is not mentioned in the owners manual, it will be mentioned in the workshop manual.
These are not always available on line, but you could try searching..
Having said that; you could be correct in your assumption.
If the software sees 30 deg, then there will be no reason to ignite the heater.
To test this; you could cool down the temp sensor, usually located at the back of the heater ;)
Error 6
Giret
Talking very slow and most is rubbish.get to the point. 😢
LOL!
Many people from around the world, watch these heater repair videos.
People whose first language is not English.