Thanks for the video. I had a very badly worn pillar tap seat about 5 years ago from decades of dripping, had worn a deep channel. Turning the grinder by hand almost no effect. So had to attach it to a DRILL! After about 10 minutes of intermittent grinding at last ground out the channel and cured the problem. It had a VERY hard tap seat. More recently I tried doing the same with a much more modern pillar tap- stupidly attached it to the drill when I should have tried by hand first. This tap seat metal was MUCH softer and the grinder attached to the drill ground out a lot of the tap seat in almost no time! And partially melted the plastic of the grinding tool. The tap seat looked a bit lop sided now and I reassembled the tap thinking I had probably dmaaged the tap seat beyond repair. But fortunately enough of the tap seat left for the washer to tighten onto with no drips. But only goes to show some (older) tap seats metal much harder than newer ones and will have to be be more careful in future. Thanks again for the useful video.
Wickes sell an identical one to that in the video. £8 I have one, but old taps usually need a lot more grinding, test for nicks with you finger tip! Gring until smooth
Brilliant I looked online and found some guy selling this tool for £22 on eBay, so I popped along to Screwfix and picked one up for £9.99. Did the job perfick. Lovely Jubbly
Had a problem with an intermittent leak. Replaced washer. Had a drip cold immediately after replacing. After several attempts to seat the washer, the drips stopped. Then cold started to drip again. Changed washers again; same intermittent problem w/cold water. Thought the seats were worn (non-removable seats on a 100yr old bath tub faucet). I took the valves out again and was prepared to re-seat with a grinder. Then I noticed a small piece of something in the body. Thought it was teflon tape. Turned out it was a piece of hard plastic, likely from the dip tube in the HWT that was getting caught between the washer & seat (hence, the intermittent drips). It did not wash out through spout because of the shower diverter. Lesson to be learned: check all possibilities before re-seating...and grind ever so slightly one step at a time. There is no such thing as rebuilding a seat.
Great video. I have a drip on one of my bath taps. It's over forty years old, but still in good nick otherwise. It has a screw on the side, but when I loosen it, the top doesn't come off. Any suggestions on how to get it off? I don't want to force it and break it, if I'm missing a vital step!
Great video, very informative. My problem is that the head gear on the cold tap is completely worn. It's so badly rounded off and over tightened that I had to file it flat in order to get a spanner or mole grips on it. Even then it's so tight that, it just won't turn /undo. I'll try your toilet roll cardboard tube and socket method to hold it but it's so tight, I'm worried I'll break the tap. Whoever tried to fix it before me made a right royal mess of it. It's a mixer tap with the hot on the left, cold on the right, the spout neck rises up from between the taps. Any ideas. Prefer not to have to use a blow torch as the tap is so close to a wooden panel wall. thanks.
Yes,tried WD40 and still won't budge. Whoever over tightened it completely wore away/ rounded off the nut part on the head gear. The hot tap head gear on the other side was simple and straightforward to replace.
I think replacing the entire tap is the only option, I wouldn't be surprised if the overtightened head gear has damaged the thread in the tap. Thanks for all your help & advice, cheers, David.
I think my bath tap needs re-seating. It was dripping so I changed the washer. Now the tap head won't go back in the hole properly and sits about half a centimetre above the other one. It will turn off, but sometimes this is difficult. When off, it drips. Any ideas, please.
@@ultimatehandyman Oh I found one that plumbers said were good on Amazon for £22 and it seems to have done the trick ( everything crossed ) thank you !
Normally that happens if the tap washer has perished and water trickles slowly down the spout and down the tap, or it can leak from the tap head gear. You need to determine where the water is coming from first, sometimes tying a piece of tissue around the neck of the spout can indicate if the water is leaking from the spout etc.
Not really, as there is no seat to grind in a cartridge tap- unless it is a traditional tap with a 1/4 turn cartridge- even then I'm not sure if it would help 🤔 Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for the video. I had a very badly worn pillar tap seat about 5 years ago from decades of dripping, had worn a deep channel. Turning the grinder by hand almost no effect. So had to attach it to a DRILL! After about 10 minutes of intermittent grinding at last ground out the channel and cured the problem. It had a VERY hard tap seat. More recently I tried doing the same with a much more modern pillar tap- stupidly attached it to the drill when I should have tried by hand first. This tap seat metal was MUCH softer and the grinder attached to the drill ground out a lot of the tap seat in almost no time! And partially melted the plastic of the grinding tool. The tap seat looked a bit lop sided now and I reassembled the tap thinking I had probably dmaaged the tap seat beyond repair. But fortunately enough of the tap seat left for the washer to tighten onto with no drips. But only goes to show some (older) tap seats metal much harder than newer ones and will have to be be more careful in future.
Thanks again for the useful video.
Thanks for the comment
I have to do this tomorrow and at least now I know what to do once I have purchased the tool. Many thanks!
Thanks for the info Handyman. As a mature student at college learning plumbing this has come in very usefull.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
perfect explanation, and just what ive been looking for, cheers mate.
+BRIAN fields You are welcomeThanks for the comment
Wickes sell an identical one to that in the video. £8
I have one, but old taps usually need a lot more grinding, test for nicks with you finger tip!
Gring until smooth
Brilliant
I looked online and found some guy selling this tool for £22 on eBay, so I popped along to Screwfix and picked one up for £9.99. Did the job perfick. Lovely Jubbly
Thanks for the comment
Had a problem with an intermittent leak. Replaced washer. Had a drip cold immediately after replacing. After several attempts to seat the washer, the drips stopped. Then cold started to drip again. Changed washers again; same intermittent problem w/cold water. Thought the seats were worn (non-removable seats on a 100yr old bath tub faucet). I took the valves out again and was prepared to re-seat with a grinder. Then I noticed a small piece of something in the body. Thought it was teflon tape. Turned out it was a piece of hard plastic, likely from the dip tube in the HWT that was getting caught between the washer & seat (hence, the intermittent drips). It did not wash out through spout because of the shower diverter. Lesson to be learned: check all possibilities before re-seating...and grind ever so slightly one step at a time. There is no such thing as rebuilding a seat.
Brilliant, easy to do job with this very well demonstrated video.
Clear concise.
Good video.
Hope you do a lot more
Great video. I have a drip on one of my bath taps. It's over forty years old, but still in good nick otherwise. It has a screw on the side, but when I loosen it, the top doesn't come off. Any suggestions on how to get it off? I don't want to force it and break it, if I'm missing a vital step!
Great video, very informative. My problem is that the head gear on the cold tap is completely worn. It's so badly rounded off and over tightened that I had to file it flat in order to get a spanner or mole grips on it. Even then it's so tight that, it just won't turn /undo. I'll try your toilet roll cardboard tube and socket method to hold it but it's so tight, I'm worried I'll break the tap. Whoever tried to fix it before me made a right royal mess of it. It's a mixer tap with the hot on the left, cold on the right, the spout neck rises up from between the taps. Any ideas. Prefer not to have to use a blow torch as the tap is so close to a wooden panel wall. thanks.
+David Novak Have you tried spraying it with spray penetrant, such as WD40?That can sometimes help.
Yes,tried WD40 and still won't budge. Whoever over tightened it completely wore away/ rounded off the nut part on the head gear. The hot tap head gear on the other side was simple and straightforward to replace.
+David Novak
You might get it by using a large pair of water pump pliers or Stilsons, or replacing the whole tap might be the only option!
I think replacing the entire tap is the only option, I wouldn't be surprised if the overtightened head gear has damaged the thread in the tap. Thanks for all your help & advice, cheers, David.
+David Novak
You are welcome.
Good luck with it ;-)
Excellent explanation! Many thanks!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
very good video,could you please tell me where you got the TAP RESEATING TOOL from and how much was it....
Awesome! Thanks ultimate handy man.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
I think my bath tap needs re-seating. It was dripping so I changed the washer. Now the tap head won't go back in the hole properly and sits about half a centimetre above the other one. It will turn off, but sometimes this is difficult. When off, it drips. Any ideas, please.
Brilliant stuff
Thanks for the comment
Another Fantastic video
Thanks for the comment
Have you got the make and model of the tap reseating tool you use please
I can’t remember the make, sorry! But it is identical to this one (apart from the colour) - fave.co/3KHVnrd
@@ultimatehandyman Oh I found one that plumbers said were good on Amazon for £22 and it seems to have done the trick ( everything crossed ) thank you !
What is confusing me is they sell imperial and metric, how do I know which to buy for basin and bath taps? many thanks Ian
Most taps in the UK use imperial sized threads.
Basin taps are normally 1/2" and bath taps or normally 3/4"
thanks
cheers for that, veyr useful. what a nice man to be making such helpful videos. you deserve a good day off and a naughty packet of chocolate hobnobs.
Thank you so much for your help
+Maryannmay
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
The seat of my tap is grooved circles, will this still work?
Not sure, have you tried replacing the tap washer?
Thanks for the comment 👍
i have a old pillar tap, and the water is leaking out around the base of the tap, what could this be, and how can i fix it
Normally that happens if the tap washer has perished and water trickles slowly down the spout and down the tap, or it can leak from the tap head gear. You need to determine where the water is coming from first, sometimes tying a piece of tissue around the neck of the spout can indicate if the water is leaking from the spout etc.
Good tip, thanks!
would this work for cartridge taps also or not really?
Not really, as there is no seat to grind in a cartridge tap- unless it is a traditional tap with a 1/4 turn cartridge- even then I'm not sure if it would help 🤔
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ya did 13 turns not about 6 call yaself a plumber tut tut