Since both are resins I like the fact that you can call one of them part A and one part b which one is usually the hardener and it's usually the one with a nitrogen atom included in the molecule. I don't like referring to either one as a harder. Because polymerization is an equal process. There is no harder catalyst. Both parts get used up equally fast. This isn't like polyester resin in which a tiny amount of catalysts cross links the molecule without getting used.
Coming along, Some day in my retirement I would like to do s cedar strip, its trying to find the time in retirement that is the problem. Looking forward to November!
You're about a quarter of a way to completing a seal coat that you can sand tomorrow. The extra epoxy squeegeed over the surface might seal the edges and prevent gas bubbles migrating into the and epoxy being sucked away from cloth. He would just be sanding for adhesion and not for removing epoxy. If you do not do an epoxy sealcoat could you include a video of all the bubbles you got?
I liked your vid I am building a grand laker also, and your explanation of the materials, how much and what type of epoxy helped a lot thank you. How much silica did you use to get epoxy the peanut better consistancy? And what else did you get? any cotton? The bungees sound easy, but there are vids of a nice easy jig to hold the strips to the station.
Glad you enjoyed it! I really just eyeballed the addition of silica and cedar flower. once I had the desired thickness and color I went with it. I didn't purchase any cotton. I also purchased some 4 and 5 inch squeegees, couple mixing pots, 6 oz fiberglass and dispensing pumps (which I haven't used because RAKA mixes at such a simple 2:1 ratio). When I spoke with RAKA, they were familiar with Gil's boats and recommended the quantities I needed for my boat. Highly recommend talking to them, incredebly helpful. Good luck on the build! My father built a grand laker ~25yrs ago. Still going strong 💪!
@@MaineOutdoorEnthusiast Let me ask you a few questions nobody talks about on the vids. How perfect are your stations? I used the carbon paper method and I have some slight waves on the curve of the station I've sanded them down as much as I dare, but they are slightly there. My budget doesn't include $700. for the CNC made ones. The stern of the grand laker. How thick should it be and how much should be tapered to be a glue surface? the directions were contradictory. I did a three-inch-thick maple stern and imagined half of that being a glueing surface. to get that much contact with the strips the directions said to adjust the stern on its mount, which could affect the top curve of the boat? thanks for listening.
Excellent questions! My stations are not perfect. I did take my time to get them as good as I could. You can always adjust the imperfections with a little painters tape to build up any valleys and what not. Yeah, I definitely don't think 700$ for machined stations is worth it. Regarding the GL, I haven't built a square stern. I'll ask my father how he managed his. I will say this, try not to get "analysis paralysis". Sometimes we have to jump and just do it...maybe we make a mistake or two, but thats how we learn😉. You got this👍
I like the fact that no inner or outer stem is required. I mean does it really make a lot of sense to spend 4 hours on internet or stems when you can strip the whole boat.
I like the idea of using a larger quantity mixes to get the precision better. First time I've heard this.
😁
Good job man looks great
Well hello Keith! Nice to hear from you! It's coming together!
Looking good. I'll keep an eye out for the next episode.
Thanks! It's been a fun project.
Since both are resins I like the fact that you can call one of them part A and one part b which one is usually the hardener and it's usually the one with a nitrogen atom included in the molecule. I don't like referring to either one as a harder. Because polymerization is an equal process. There is no harder catalyst. Both parts get used up equally fast. This isn't like polyester resin in which a tiny amount of catalysts cross links the molecule without getting used.
Looks great, you are going to have a beautiful canoe.
Regards
Mark
Thanks Mark!
Coming along, Some day in my retirement I would like to do s cedar strip, its trying to find the time in retirement that is the problem. Looking forward to November!
Slowly but surely! It’s going to be a great fall👍
You're about a quarter of a way to completing a seal coat that you can sand tomorrow. The extra epoxy squeegeed over the surface might seal the edges and prevent gas bubbles migrating into the and epoxy being sucked away from cloth. He would just be sanding for adhesion and not for removing epoxy. If you do not do an epoxy sealcoat could you include a video of all the bubbles you got?
The next coat is a seal coat
I liked your vid I am building a grand laker also, and your explanation of the materials, how much and what type of epoxy helped a lot thank you. How much silica did you use to get epoxy the peanut better consistancy? And what else did you get? any cotton?
The bungees sound easy, but there are vids of a nice easy jig to hold the strips to the station.
Glad you enjoyed it! I really just eyeballed the addition of silica and cedar flower. once I had the desired thickness and color I went with it. I didn't purchase any cotton. I also purchased some 4 and 5 inch squeegees, couple mixing pots, 6 oz fiberglass and dispensing pumps (which I haven't used because RAKA mixes at such a simple 2:1 ratio). When I spoke with RAKA, they were familiar with Gil's boats and recommended the quantities I needed for my boat. Highly recommend talking to them, incredebly helpful.
Good luck on the build! My father built a grand laker ~25yrs ago. Still going strong 💪!
@@MaineOutdoorEnthusiast Let me ask you a few questions nobody talks about on the vids.
How perfect are your stations? I used the carbon paper method and I have some slight waves on the curve of the station I've sanded them down as much as I dare, but they are slightly there. My budget doesn't include $700. for the CNC made ones.
The stern of the grand laker. How thick should it be and how much should be tapered to be a glue surface? the directions were contradictory. I did a three-inch-thick maple stern and imagined half of that being a glueing surface. to get that much contact with the strips the directions said to adjust the stern on its mount, which could affect the top curve of the boat? thanks for listening.
Excellent questions! My stations are not perfect. I did take my time to get them as good as I could. You can always adjust the imperfections with a little painters tape to build up any valleys and what not. Yeah, I definitely don't think 700$ for machined stations is worth it.
Regarding the GL, I haven't built a square stern. I'll ask my father how he managed his.
I will say this, try not to get "analysis paralysis". Sometimes we have to jump and just do it...maybe we make a mistake or two, but thats how we learn😉. You got this👍
Hi, how much resin/ hardener includes the 3gal kit from Raka? 2gallons of resin and one of the hardener? Thank you!
Correct! It's mixed in a 2:1 ratio. So its 2 gallons of resin to 1 hardener. You're welcome!
Wow, it’s really coming together nicely.
Thanks!
I like the fact that no inner or outer stem is required. I mean does it really make a lot of sense to spend 4 hours on internet or stems when you can strip the whole boat.