I'm finishing up my first building project. It looks like I have a talent for design that I didn't know I had because my project is quite stunning and unique. I too chose not to sand the pine wood because that's the look I wanted for certain portions of my project. The information in your video was quite helpful and will be useful for future projects. Thank you for taking the time to share your work and comments. The mahogany stain does look very nice on your shelves.
I work for a paint store and I just have to say thanks a million. This video was helpful! Now if anybody asks about staining pine I can get them the right things for the job.
Thanks. This video was very helpful to see the comparison between the conditioned and unconditioned pine wood. I'm about to stain some pine doors and a picture is worth a thousand words.
I've just stained a pine coat rack that i have built then used a water based walnut Saturn stainer and its came out great with no blotches? This was one of my first projects, first time using a strainer too. Now im worried about my next project? Redwood pine i believe.
Great video! I have a quick question: I'm building a wagon for my daughter which will mostly be used outdoors, what type of finish do you recommend for that type of project? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated :)
I have some leftover stain with a little linseed oil mixed into it. For the moment, I just kept the leftover in a plastic container with a lid on top (the contain I used to mix and apply with). Is this ok? Not sure what other container to keep this leftover in, as I don't want to pour it back into my original stain can without contaminating it. And I don't have any extra tin can to use.
I tried staining some old pine I got from an antique door with oil-based penetrating stain. After sanding the paint off I followed the directions on the can. Brushed it on and let it sit 15 minutes before wiping. The wood turned mostly black but the grain lines turned the actual color of the stain. It looked like a film negative of wood. I wish I had watched this video before. I would have pre-treated and wiped the stain off right away.
What is in the pre-stain. In Finland i can't anything like it anywhere - would just turpentine/spirits/thinner do the same thing ? Staining spruce is terrible without it ...
good video, thanks for sharing. Couple questions. I just installed my own southern yellow pine T&G flooring and i'm looking to stain it, but I don't have a sander. I don't want to sand it. Do i have to sand it? the boards were run through the mill when they put the tongue and groove on them and they are pretty smooth, can I just install the conditioner and then apply the stain? Next question, how long did you wait for the sealer / conditioner to dry before installing the stain?
***** Hi Robert, Firstly thanks for watching! For the sanding, that's really up to you. The sanding is only a texture and a safety thing. It's a floor, so you will be walking on it barefoot eventually. if it's rough and has splinters sticking out then that's no fun. so it's up to you. As for the conditioner, you don't let it dry, you apply, wipe it off then wait a couple of minute (like 2-5) and then apply the stain. TBA
I did use the wood conditioner, but blotches showed up where stainable wood filler was used. Cleaned up and sanded thoroughly before staining. Wood is pine. What can I do?
So question, Does the conditioner stuff help the stain cover up glue that might still be on the product? That's always what gets me is not sanding off glued spots enough and the stain doesn't adhere to it.
no, nothing can help with that. once glue is in there it needs to be sanded off. couple tricks though, if you get glue beads when gluing two pieces, don't touch it! don't wipe it off. just let the bead dry and then shave it off with a chisel. it will eliminate 90% of staining problems. most people try to wipe off glue and just spread the problem across the whole surface.
What color is the wood finish? I used a golden peacan color or something but there is not much difference from the original pine.. I tried second coat it and still difference in color is little. Thanks..
Do you not sand it first? Can I do this "recipe" for a small 5x6' front porch, with 3 steps? It's mostly pressure treated 2x6's and couple 2x4's from box type store. And cover finished job with poly or something else that clear. Like for protection from walking on it. Just trying to keep the color sort of the natural with some semi type stain. Thanks!
Sanding always makes a better job. this was just for a shelve for toys. didnt really care. as for a Deck. dont bother with this. just slap on whatever hardware store stain they give you and go at it based on it's instructions. Decks are spruce, not pine.
+Dave Hi Dave, wood filler is really easy to use. Just open the package and spread on like peanut butter. Dont worry about excess as you just sand it off once dried. Then use what ever finish you want. If you want to try color matching the filler with the wood you are using, you can mix the filler with a bit of saw dust from the wood you are repairing. The filler will take on the hue of the wood. I hope this answers your question! Denis
+Dave I just used the wood filler by elmers www.amazon.com/Elmers-Stainable-Wood-Filler-Pt/dp/B00DOB78DY on a project and it worked great. It has wood fibers in it and takes stain pretty well.
Hi Denis! Had some problems with staining one of the pine doors that I have here. Id did not use the conditioner just the stain and the result was horrible. I watched your video yesterday and then went ahead and bought "Varathene Wood Conditioner" and applied it but unfortunately, the results are not so great. It looks like conditioner did not make any difference. Now, I'm just wondering if I should have used Minwax instead? Would that have made any difference?
George Barg I am sorry to hear that your project didnt turn out as planned. The reason stain "stains" is that wood porous and absorbs the product. The stain once dried seals most of the wood pores. So applying conditioner on top of a stained surface, will not accomplish anything. The conditioner, applied on a non-finished surface, semi seals the pores helping them absorb the stain more evenly. So at this point you only have two options to save your doors. You can sand down to unfinished wood (crazy amount of work) or you can paint over the stain. I cant think of any other option at this point. but maybe one of our great subscribers will have another option for you. Good Luck! TBA
Shouldn't you do the ends of the boards also? Or not. Thanks for the video. I just bought an Amish pine gliding rocker & plan to use Thompson's water seal & stain on it. I should still use a conditioner, correct?
+Altair Ramar Hi, Altair, Haha yes you would do the ends of the boards as well. As for Thompson's water seal and stain; I would not know. Every product is different. If it was my chair that I paid good money for, I would find a spot on the chair that was not visible or not easily visible(somewhere underneath). I would put the product on with and without the condition side by side. and see which I liked better. Or you could simply put the product on, and see if you like the finish. that way, if you dont need to condition, you wont find yourself with an odd patch. Good Luck!
+The Apprentice Thanks for the help. I talked to friend on mine who does woodworking, and he said being that the chair I have is made of pressure treated pine, I don't need a conditioner. Just put the Thompson's on, wait till dry, maybe sand with 220, and if needed, another coat.
Riz Hamsik I use pine for most any furniture, shelves, etc... The only thing about Pine is that it's very soft, so if you are building something that will see hard use then you might want to go for hardwood. For a dinning table I would definitely not go with pine. oak, maple, cherry, ash, walnut would all do great but really any hardwood would work. TBA
Thank you for sharing this. I am going to be staining ceiling, floor and walls for my son - all pine - and this really helped me! I really loved the color of the stain you used. What was it called?
+michelle staunton You could try staining the color tint you like. Let it dry. Then apply a house hold bleach to it. The bleach should leech out most of the color leaving a faded look. I would look for a brown-grey color to start with. Then you can apply a finish to protect it. Since it's a table I would not suggest shellac since you will surely have alcohol on your table at some point and it will desolve the finish. several coats of varnish or polyurethane will do. Hope this helps. Good luck! please send pics of the results! Denis
So sad I did NOT look a bit more, and you video, i just finish couple days ago, a tv stand, and looks horrible, is pine, they did not MENTION to use pre stain, and looks exactly loke the little piece, so sad only if i have see you video , Thank you for THE tip
Now the longer you let the stain stay on the board the darker it will get. I see you were using a dark stain and you wiped it off quick. Would it have gotten darker with the wood conditioner on it?
no prestain is the stains actual color.... If you want true color you need to not wipe off so fast (3 minutes) & reapply 2nd coat after drys an hour or 2
Thank you for a very informative video. I am trying to make pine match color with teak, and was looking for finishing tips. You have yourself a new subscriber. If you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and show some support. Cheers.
i liked the unprotected result. I want to use that for my violin. I sanded down my whole violin and want the same result as in your video the unprotected piece of wood.
you all who watched this and then critiquing him must all be experts!! Otherwise why comment!! Because he did say TOYS was going to be placed on these shelves!!!!! IDIOTS!!!!
Anyone that stumbles upon this as a DIYer should take a look at Charles Neils videos on staining pine. He has an amazing pre-color conditioner that works like no other. This minwax conditioner is terrible, and still leaves a lot of blotchiness. It took me a long time to stumble upon Charles Neils stuff, but the guy is a magician at finishing. I'm in no way affiliated with any of his stuff, but this really isn't the most effective video on the subject. I hope it helps someone else out there.
+Michael Allen Thanks for the heads up Michael. Ill take a look at his technique. I am always looking for better ways of doing things. This is just the way that I stain my pine. But no, this is not terrible. I get great results on a weekly basis. perhaps your not doing it right?
I'm not trying to offend anyone I'm just trying to offer suggestions of better ways I believe are out there, but I think that the piece on this video looks blotchy compared to what it could be. If you think it looks good then that's all that matters at the end of the day, I just think you could get a better result. Probably the perfectionist in me always looking for better. Thanks for the video.
Michael Allen You didnt offend me. I watched his video. He explains many techniques and great information on Pine. He showed Gel stains, dies and stains and conditioning. He talks about his own conditioner works the best but does not explain how he makes it (unless I missed it)
+The Apprentice I don't think he does but I think he talks about how it's different than the others out there and how he stumbled upon it. Might be in a different video of his specifically on it.
Look how blochy it gets where you don't apply stain with the grain. I know you're just trying to get it done quick, but going brushing with the grain matters big time. Good job of showing the beauty of wood conditioner, ps.
I've never seen anyone stain correctly. Do edges first the apply stain in the feild going with the grain from side to the other to prevent areas from getting overly dark...40 years+ of experience talking here.
David Ward cool thanks for the tip! But this was not about perfect staining technique. Cause im an amateur. It was about sharing an easy product that allows for consistent coverage on pine. But again! I appreciate you lending your experience!
Great video and very useful tips! Thanks a lot for sharing this with the world! Keep them videos coming!! Best regards from California!
I'm finishing up my first building project. It looks like I have a talent for design that I didn't know I had because my project is quite stunning and unique. I too chose not to sand the pine wood because that's the look I wanted for certain portions of my project. The information in your video was quite helpful and will be useful for future projects. Thank you for taking the time to share your work and comments. The mahogany stain does look very nice on your shelves.
Thanks for showing the difference between conditioning the wood vs not. Great video!
I work for a paint store and I just have to say thanks a million. This video was helpful! Now if anybody asks about staining pine I can get them the right things for the job.
hey Kelly! that's great! I'm glad you liked the video!
Wished I had known about wood conditioner for pine long ago.You made a good point in Your demonstration.
Thanks. This video was very helpful to see the comparison between the conditioned and unconditioned pine wood. I'm about to stain some pine doors and a picture is worth a thousand words.
Kim Weil and a video a million
cool thank you! .. I searched for a video on staining pine and didn't even know you were supposed to use a conditioner. much obliged.
Thanks for the demonstration and tips!! Great news.
Great video! Love all your tips! Thanks for posting this!
glad you liked the video! denis
You just "saved' the picture frame I made with the suggestion to precondition. Thanks!!
I am making a Harry Potter broom stick, (nimbus 2000) and I was wondering if I could use polish after i stain it and clear coat it. Should I?
What kind of varnish would you recommend for pine?
WATCH OUT !!! you get a much better result if you let the wood soak some minutes after staining and than wipe it off
I've just stained a pine coat rack that i have built then used a water based walnut Saturn stainer and its came out great with no blotches? This was one of my first projects, first time using a strainer too. Now im worried about my next project? Redwood pine i believe.
Great video! I have a quick question: I'm building a wagon for my daughter which will mostly be used outdoors, what type of finish do you recommend for that type of project? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated :)
I have some leftover stain with a little linseed oil mixed into it. For the moment, I just kept the leftover in a plastic container with a lid on top (the contain I used to mix and apply with). Is this ok? Not sure what other container to keep this leftover in, as I don't want to pour it back into my original stain can without contaminating it. And I don't have any extra tin can to use.
I tried staining some old pine I got from an antique door with oil-based penetrating stain. After sanding the paint off I followed the directions on the can. Brushed it on and let it sit 15 minutes before wiping. The wood turned mostly black but the grain lines turned the actual color of the stain. It looked like a film negative of wood. I wish I had watched this video before. I would have pre-treated and wiped the stain off right away.
What is in the pre-stain. In Finland i can't anything like it anywhere - would just turpentine/spirits/thinner do the same thing ? Staining spruce is terrible without it ...
What color of stain did you use???
Good information Dude , thanks
What color stain are you using
Trying to sand and stain my stairs after ripping out old carpeting. Appreciate the tips!
How did it go?
@@floridagirl9064 A lot of work, but they look so much better!!! Thank you.
@@deemccauley9903 very nice! Getting ready to do myself so good to hear
thank you! You just save me $$$$!
What color is thissssss
did you sand it first? what grit did you use? plan to make some flower boxes for my mason jars, thinking to use pine. thanks
no I don't sand finished pine.
good video, thanks for sharing. Couple questions. I just installed my own southern yellow pine T&G flooring and i'm looking to stain it, but I don't have a sander. I don't want to sand it. Do i have to sand it? the boards were run through the mill when they put the tongue and groove on them and they are pretty smooth, can I just install the conditioner and then apply the stain? Next question, how long did you wait for the sealer / conditioner to dry before installing the stain?
***** Hi Robert, Firstly thanks for watching! For the sanding, that's really up to you. The sanding is only a texture and a safety thing. It's a floor, so you will be walking on it barefoot eventually. if it's rough and has splinters sticking out then that's no fun. so it's up to you.
As for the conditioner, you don't let it dry, you apply, wipe it off then wait a couple of minute (like 2-5) and then apply the stain. TBA
Wow, can’t believe he didn’t see “The Drip” 😳
thanks for your tips, i really like the stain color you used can you tell me which stain you used?
the company is minwax - color was mahogany I think
I did use the wood conditioner, but blotches showed up where stainable wood filler was used. Cleaned up and sanded thoroughly before staining. Wood is pine. What can I do?
once sanded, just reapply the conditioner, then stain again. should come out fine.
So question, Does the conditioner stuff help the stain cover up glue that might still be on the product? That's always what gets me is not sanding off glued spots enough and the stain doesn't adhere to it.
no, nothing can help with that. once glue is in there it needs to be sanded off. couple tricks though, if you get glue beads when gluing two pieces, don't touch it! don't wipe it off. just let the bead dry and then shave it off with a chisel. it will eliminate 90% of staining problems. most people try to wipe off glue and just spread the problem across the whole surface.
The Apprentice That's a pretty good idea. Maybe we should invent a tpe of conditioner that makes glue spots go away and then we can be Millionaires.
What color is the wood finish? I used a golden peacan color or something but there is not much difference from the original pine.. I tried second coat it and still difference in color is little. Thanks..
you have to go twice as dark as you need as there is much less color absorbed into the wood. this was something like red mahogany
Do you not sand it first? Can I do this "recipe" for a small 5x6' front porch, with 3 steps? It's mostly pressure treated 2x6's and couple 2x4's from box type store. And cover finished job with poly or something else that clear. Like for protection from walking on it. Just trying to keep the color sort of the natural with some semi type stain. Thanks!
Sanding always makes a better job. this was just for a shelve for toys. didnt really care.
as for a Deck. dont bother with this. just slap on whatever hardware store stain they give you and go at it based on it's instructions.
Decks are spruce, not pine.
I was going to build a desk top out of pine, I shall not be now after watching this video, thanks for the tips.
best thing I have found is hardwood plywood. oak or maple . it's solid and really nice. just finish the edges with hardwood
Did you ever price the lumber for your desk top?
Curious what you came up with
I ended up putting together ikea products, just didnt have the time to build a top from scratch.
Mineral spirits work well as a conditioning agent when using an oil stain.
Thank you for the info... can I leave the stain on longer for a darker color or keep applying then wiping until the desired color?
Jay Worm yes you even should
Vanquisher 3001 wtf kind of a response was that?
Do not leave it more than suggested time. I did and ended up with a sticky mess. Had to sand down and start over.
What about wood filler how do you do that? I bought some pine and it has a few spots that need fixed with wood putty/filler. What do you suggest?
+Dave Hi Dave, wood filler is really easy to use. Just open the package and spread on like peanut butter. Dont worry about excess as you just sand it off once dried. Then use what ever finish you want. If you want to try color matching the filler with the wood you are using, you can mix the filler with a bit of saw dust from the wood you are repairing. The filler will take on the hue of the wood. I hope this answers your question! Denis
+Dave I just used the wood filler by elmers www.amazon.com/Elmers-Stainable-Wood-Filler-Pt/dp/B00DOB78DY on a project and it worked great. It has wood fibers in it and takes stain pretty well.
Thanks a lot! Very useful!!! Take care
George Barg Your welcome! Glad you liked it! Denis
Hi Denis! Had some problems with staining one of the pine doors that I have here. Id did not use the conditioner just the stain and the result was horrible. I watched your video yesterday and then went ahead and bought "Varathene Wood Conditioner" and applied it but unfortunately, the results are not so great. It looks like conditioner did not make any difference. Now, I'm just wondering if I should have used Minwax instead? Would that have made any difference?
George Barg I am sorry to hear that your project didnt turn out as planned. The reason stain "stains" is that wood porous and absorbs the product. The stain once dried seals most of the wood pores. So applying conditioner on top of a stained surface, will not accomplish anything.
The conditioner, applied on a non-finished surface, semi seals the pores helping them absorb the stain more evenly.
So at this point you only have two options to save your doors. You can sand down to unfinished wood (crazy amount of work) or you can paint over the stain.
I cant think of any other option at this point. but maybe one of our great subscribers will have another option for you.
Good Luck!
TBA
Thank you!
Shouldn't you do the ends of the boards also? Or not. Thanks for the video. I just bought an Amish pine gliding rocker & plan to use Thompson's water seal & stain on it. I should still use a conditioner, correct?
+Altair Ramar Hi, Altair, Haha yes you would do the ends of the boards as well. As for Thompson's water seal and stain; I would not know. Every product is different. If it was my chair that I paid good money for, I would find a spot on the chair that was not visible or not easily visible(somewhere underneath). I would put the product on with and without the condition side by side. and see which I liked better. Or you could simply put the product on, and see if you like the finish. that way, if you dont need to condition, you wont find yourself with an odd patch. Good Luck!
+The Apprentice Thanks for the help. I talked to friend on mine who does woodworking, and he said being that the chair I have is made of pressure treated pine, I don't need a conditioner. Just put the Thompson's on, wait till dry, maybe sand with 220, and if needed, another coat.
+Altair Ramar cool, good to know!
What do you use pine wood for? What kinda wood would you recommend for diy dinning table?
Riz Hamsik I use pine for most any furniture, shelves, etc... The only thing about Pine is that it's very soft, so if you are building something that will see hard use then you might want to go for hardwood. For a dinning table I would definitely not go with pine. oak, maple, cherry, ash, walnut would all do great but really any hardwood would work. TBA
The Bushcraft Apprentice Thanks dude! Going to my local timber to find me one nice hardwood.
Hey buddy what stain were you using here . Looks good . And what would you suggest for a nice dark ( not red ) stain for pine
Looks like gunstock.
He said it was mahogany
Thank you for sharing this. I am going to be staining ceiling, floor and walls for my son - all pine - and this really helped me! I really loved the color of the stain you used. What was it called?
I just saw the name of the color you used from a previous comment - mahogany.
I noticed the conditioned board didn't get as dark. Could I just add more coats and still prevent the blotchiness? Thanks for the video.
Vassni Garcia no just let the stain on longer, wipe it of after 30 minutes and its darker
Do not do 30 minutes. I went past 15 minutes and it became a sticky mess. Had to sand everything down and start all over.
Like the color of reindeers ha ha!
Do you sand in between coats of stain and when you're done? And do you sand in between coats of polyurethane and when you're done?
Can i just use a gel stain after conditioning?
Sure!
LiveLaugh MakeLove hello!
How can I get a soft beach hut washed out look on a old pine coffee table I don't want a thick dense color but a soft brown powdery look
+michelle staunton You could try staining the color tint you like. Let it dry. Then apply a house hold bleach to it. The bleach should leech out most of the color leaving a faded look. I would look for a brown-grey color to start with. Then you can apply a finish to protect it. Since it's a table I would not suggest shellac since you will surely have alcohol on your table at some point and it will desolve the finish. several coats of varnish or polyurethane will do. Hope this helps. Good luck! please send pics of the results! Denis
This fellow is left handed !
So sad I did NOT look a bit more, and you video, i just finish couple days ago, a tv stand, and looks horrible, is pine, they did not MENTION to use pre stain, and looks exactly loke the little piece, so sad only if i have see you video ,
Thank you for THE tip
flavin flavio well now you know what to try next time. Thanks for watching!
thanks
That is some nice ass pine wood
Hi Im dying to know what color stain that was? It matches perfectly with a project Im doing. Thanks in advance!
Mahogany by minwax! ☺
Now the longer you let the stain stay on the board the darker it will get. I see you were using a dark stain and you wiped it off quick. Would it have gotten darker with the wood conditioner on it?
useful info there, surprised only 88 likes so far, thanks.
thank you!
no prestain is the stains actual color.... If you want true color you need to not wipe off so fast (3 minutes) & reapply 2nd coat after drys an hour or 2
You should definitely wear gloves when using stain.
Whats the color you used?
I cant recall for sure but i think it was mahogany
Thanx ! nice video ! It really helped me
You are most welcome! I am very happy that it helped you!
Thank you for a very informative video. I am trying to make pine match color with teak, and was looking for finishing tips. You have yourself a new subscriber.
If you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and show some support. Cheers.
You can use stodoys instructions to build it in the cheapest way.
Please wear protective gloves, eye protection and protective clothing.
i liked the unprotected result. I want to use that for my violin.
I sanded down my whole violin and want the same result as in your video the unprotected piece of wood.
It’s not protection, it’s conditioner. Serves more as a primer that will allow the wood to take the stain more uniform instead of blotchy.
Bro, how you not gonna wear gloves lmao.
dingo people who do this for a while stop using them, just like you see mechanics not using a gloves, veterans lol
did nobody see the drip? *cringe* 5:29
I did :)
never got to 5:29...he rambled so much at the onset I, I quit watching. Start video, start applying technique...done. Not this video..
if you didnt see that run...you shouldnt be wood working hahahaa
you all who watched this and then critiquing him must all be experts!! Otherwise why comment!! Because he did say TOYS was going to be placed on these shelves!!!!! IDIOTS!!!!
Av8tore71 it’s supposed to be a tutorial. “Here’s how you fuck up some wood!”
Haha
Anyone that stumbles upon this as a DIYer should take a look at Charles Neils videos on staining pine. He has an amazing pre-color conditioner that works like no other. This minwax conditioner is terrible, and still leaves a lot of blotchiness. It took me a long time to stumble upon Charles Neils stuff, but the guy is a magician at finishing. I'm in no way affiliated with any of his stuff, but this really isn't the most effective video on the subject. I hope it helps someone else out there.
+Michael Allen Thanks for the heads up Michael. Ill take a look at his technique. I am always looking for better ways of doing things. This is just the way that I stain my pine. But no, this is not terrible. I get great results on a weekly basis. perhaps your not doing it right?
I'm not trying to offend anyone I'm just trying to offer suggestions of better ways I believe are out there, but I think that the piece on this video looks blotchy compared to what it could be. If you think it looks good then that's all that matters at the end of the day, I just think you could get a better result. Probably the perfectionist in me always looking for better. Thanks for the video.
Michael Allen You didnt offend me. I watched his video. He explains many techniques and great information on Pine. He showed Gel stains, dies and stains and conditioning. He talks about his own conditioner works the best but does not explain how he makes it (unless I missed it)
+The Apprentice I don't think he does but I think he talks about how it's different than the others out there and how he stumbled upon it. Might be in a different video of his specifically on it.
Look how blochy it gets where you don't apply stain with the grain. I know you're just trying to get it done quick, but going brushing with the grain matters big time.
Good job of showing the beauty of wood conditioner, ps.
I've never seen anyone stain correctly. Do edges first the apply stain in the feild going with the grain from side to the other to prevent areas from getting overly dark...40 years+ of experience talking here.
David Ward cool thanks for the tip! But this was not about perfect staining technique. Cause im an amateur. It was about sharing an easy product that allows for consistent coverage on pine. But again! I appreciate you lending your experience!
whaaaat a drrrrrriiiiiiiippp...
you misppeled conditioning :\>
You misspelled misspelled! 😉
I am sure you can still buy handbook with all info you need on Woodprix. Just google it.
I made it by myself. I used Woodprix woodworking plans for that.
No you didn't!
hell the untreated looks better
shawn hogsten same here
Constantinopla have fun being a tool
Love the natural character of pine.
"Isn't that awesome?"
I don't know, you have the video so over compressed I can't see any of the details in the wood.
Check your quality setting. It should be set to 720p. Its nice and clear. I have a better camera since then but this is still clear.
The untreated looks way better😂