Good work Ben! I'll have you know that instead of trusting my anecdotal experience with other water spotted cars, I happened to trust your in person judgement and experience that it does indeed appear to be paint failure in progress ;) . I actually think you would really really enjoy the Chem-X line in the ways it can be used and versatility it provides. I basically get a gallon of each of their touchless soaps they use as the two step touchless system, and I dilute the gallons 1-4 into their own 5 gallon container so it's ready to go when I need it. For touchless basically get two cannons ready, Foam low pH step1 first and don't rinse, then foam high pH step2 on top of the low pH step1 working quick in smaller sections, and rinse with high pressure bottom to top so you can see visually that you've adequately rinsed. When you foam step2 on top of step1 it neutralizes quick and the resulting rapid change in pH actually works to release the static bond of the grime from the car. Plus you get the benefits of the soaps used in each step being very effective with the tiny bit of dwell time they get before neutralizing each other out. All together you've got a wildly effective touchless solution that's dead simple to use and quick when you need it. But the real value I find as somebody working on SUV's, Pickup truck's, and car's mostly, comes from the other two products I grab from them: a Gallon each of their "Foam" mitt wash, and a gallon of their foamable sealant "Snake Oil". I dilute the foam mitt wash 1-4 into a 5 gallon container so I can use it as my regular go to high foaming pH neutral pure soap (not a wash and wax or anything) and that's what I use for my contact wash or light maintenance washes 95% of the time. However the next part is where I really start to love this system: Say I've got a car that's come in and it's absolutely caked in road salt or mineral buildup, and I've gotta do a contact wash because a touchless isn't going to get it all. Well in that case I'll fill my foam cannon up with about 2/3-3/4 of the foam mitt wash, and then fill that final 1/3-1/4 of the cannon with the low pH soap from step 1 of the touchless wash, and that gives it a little more acidic bite without being too crazy and let's me clear all the mineral buildup and surface water spotting with ease. Also applies to coated cars with mineral buildup clogging it, I'm pretty much able to make my own car pro descale equivalent on the fly. Now say that I've got another car I'm working on and there's a thick layer of traffic film and greasy dirty buildup from the roads. Well in that case I do the same thing but I'll spike my mitt wash with the high pH step2 of the touchless wash and now I have a great soap for traffic film and oily type stuff, that's not going to be so crazy alkaline it'll harm anything. And again it also helps with coated cars when the buildup is less mineral based. So now with just those 3 products I have the ability to do touchless washes, gentle pH neutral washing, lower pH washes for mineral buildup and clogged coatings, and a higher pH wash for stubborn traffic film and unclogging coatings with more organic types of contamination instead of minerals. Last but not least I use The snake oil at a dilution of 1-8 (.5 gallons into a 5 gallon container) and then I foam that on and rinse it off as protection. But another reason I like it, is because it sits at a pH between 4-5 neat, so I've found that I can actually use it in a couple ways to attack water spots with it and leave protection behind. Just foaming it on and rinsing it off with a quick dry takes care of some really light stuff, but I've also been able to put some in a small bottle around a dilution of 1-4, spot spray, and work it over gently with a microfiber applicator or rag to get some stuff out. If it's stubborn but not quite etched in I've been able to dab some on undiluted and work it out with a microfiber applicator. Just rinse and dry afterwards and you're golden.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa As you would know, being the Jedi master that exposed their stuff to me. I feel like a lot of people are unnecessarily apprehensive of their touchless line to an extent because they see the pH levels and think about them in a traditional soap sense. I definitely wouldn't use stars or stripes on its own and just leave it chillin forever and then use the mitt on it. BUT as a touchless system together, or for pushing a traditional neutral soap a little higher or lower down the pH scale based on the dirt you're dealing with, its versatility can't be beat. Also Martin if you have a glass shower I've got an amazing pro-tip. Clean the glass up, then throw some diluted Snake Oil in a pump foamer, hit the shower doors with it, and then lightly work it into the door with a microfiber towel starting at top. Once you're at the bottom rinse it off, dry/buff it and enjoy the crystal clear spot free glass as it sheets everything off for months and months (at least at our house).
Wow, amazing write up and comment. I’ve definitely heard of the products and seen many channels like BLAS play with them. I appreciate the knowledge. I’d love to use them but don’t really have a circumstance for them. Snake Oil might be on my list though.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa yeah I can understand the apprehension at first, it's just odd that there still seems to be a lot of people that won't accept it as safe no matter what info is given or what they're shown. Sometimes I feel like I'm saying Voldemort or something when I say Alkaline. Haha
I highly recommend Griot's Garage 3 in 1 as a topper every 3 months or so. Its a hybrid wax/ ceramic based detailer. It sits on top of you ceramic coating and works with it enhancing shine, slickness and prevents etching because of the wax element. Use this once you've washed and dried the car and simply spray and buff to a shine. It's adds beading and a bit of UV protection too. I use CQuartz UK 3.0 AND S.I.C combined, this every now and then to top everything off. I've not had to use my Carpro Descale wash yet or Spotless.
Great video as usual! I’ve been looking to “super clean” my ceramic coating and will likely be using Descale. I’m wondering if you’d also recommend Carpro Lift to work on the “alkaline” side of the pH scale. Or would Descale + Reset suffice just fine? Wasn’t sure if I needed to take care of all aspects of the pH scale for a more “complete” decon wash. Thanks so much
Hey there, great video as always! I find your videos very instructive and useful! Do you think a rinseless solution would neutralise the acid brought by spotless 2.0? I'm asking cause this would allow me to try it in my garage where I do not have a hose. I was also wondering whether iron remover and tar remover could be washed with a rinseless or waterless solution instead of a pressure washer...
Well, I it should as it’s the same as washing with soap and water. Maybe a little higher Ph Rinseless like ADG WIPEOUT would be a good choice as it’s a PH of 9.
@@DetailingBreakdown thank you! I've only got ONR, duragloss 931 and echo2 at the moment, I think I'll go maybe with a higher concentration while prewashing to be safer
Yessir! It’s paint is failing but also has water spots on the railing paint. Lol, it’s a mess. He got it like that so it’s not his fault. Still a cool car.
Hello ! Had the same issues on my car due to ceramic coating : it rained a lot then was very hot on a sunny day with the water beading still on the car. The water spot was so dep into the clearcoat that I had to wetsand some parts ! I'll never use ceramic coating again, never had a single problem with carnauba wax or sealant. They are some thread only speaking about this.
Deep etched water spots are never coming of with a water spot remover. The type of strength required for that would cause too much damage to the clear coat in order to remove those spots. That car is also in need of a polish. I would have just do a clayless decon and light polish.
Avi has shown the acidity in a post in the carpro group of descale using a digital tester as he states the tester strips are inaccurate and are in the ballpark but definitely not accurate to the number. It has a ph of 3.5 concentrated and 3.75 diluted. You can checkout the carpro group and search for it to see the video.
@@DetailingBreakdown Good catch. Not the first time I have seen something on sky car care that wasn't quite right. I'll let Corey know so he can update it.
@@DetailingBreakdown Why don't you understand? if you use specific products for certain problems and they don't work as promised in the advertisements, what is that? pure marketing and zero functionality!
Good work Ben!
I'll have you know that instead of trusting my anecdotal experience with other water spotted cars, I happened to trust your in person judgement and experience that it does indeed appear to be paint failure in progress ;) .
I actually think you would really really enjoy the Chem-X line in the ways it can be used and versatility it provides.
I basically get a gallon of each of their touchless soaps they use as the two step touchless system, and I dilute the gallons 1-4 into their own 5 gallon container so it's ready to go when I need it.
For touchless basically get two cannons ready, Foam low pH step1 first and don't rinse, then foam high pH step2 on top of the low pH step1 working quick in smaller sections, and rinse with high pressure bottom to top so you can see visually that you've adequately rinsed. When you foam step2 on top of step1 it neutralizes quick and the resulting rapid change in pH actually works to release the static bond of the grime from the car. Plus you get the benefits of the soaps used in each step being very effective with the tiny bit of dwell time they get before neutralizing each other out. All together you've got a wildly effective touchless solution that's dead simple to use and quick when you need it.
But the real value I find as somebody working on SUV's, Pickup truck's, and car's mostly, comes from the other two products I grab from them: a Gallon each of their "Foam" mitt wash, and a gallon of their foamable sealant "Snake Oil".
I dilute the foam mitt wash 1-4 into a 5 gallon container so I can use it as my regular go to high foaming pH neutral pure soap (not a wash and wax or anything) and that's what I use for my contact wash or light maintenance washes 95% of the time.
However the next part is where I really start to love this system:
Say I've got a car that's come in and it's absolutely caked in road salt or mineral buildup, and I've gotta do a contact wash because a touchless isn't going to get it all. Well in that case I'll fill my foam cannon up with about 2/3-3/4 of the foam mitt wash, and then fill that final 1/3-1/4 of the cannon with the low pH soap from step 1 of the touchless wash, and that gives it a little more acidic bite without being too crazy and let's me clear all the mineral buildup and surface water spotting with ease. Also applies to coated cars with mineral buildup clogging it, I'm pretty much able to make my own car pro descale equivalent on the fly.
Now say that I've got another car I'm working on and there's a thick layer of traffic film and greasy dirty buildup from the roads. Well in that case I do the same thing but I'll spike my mitt wash with the high pH step2 of the touchless wash and now I have a great soap for traffic film and oily type stuff, that's not going to be so crazy alkaline it'll harm anything. And again it also helps with coated cars when the buildup is less mineral based.
So now with just those 3 products I have the ability to do touchless washes, gentle pH neutral washing, lower pH washes for mineral buildup and clogged coatings, and a higher pH wash for stubborn traffic film and unclogging coatings with more organic types of contamination instead of minerals.
Last but not least I use The snake oil at a dilution of 1-8 (.5 gallons into a 5 gallon container) and then I foam that on and rinse it off as protection. But another reason I like it, is because it sits at a pH between 4-5 neat, so I've found that I can actually use it in a couple ways to attack water spots with it and leave protection behind. Just foaming it on and rinsing it off with a quick dry takes care of some really light stuff, but I've also been able to put some in a small bottle around a dilution of 1-4, spot spray, and work it over gently with a microfiber applicator or rag to get some stuff out. If it's stubborn but not quite etched in I've been able to dab some on undiluted and work it out with a microfiber applicator. Just rinse and dry afterwards and you're golden.
Chem-X's products are awesome when trying to save time!
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa As you would know, being the Jedi master that exposed their stuff to me.
I feel like a lot of people are unnecessarily apprehensive of their touchless line to an extent because they see the pH levels and think about them in a traditional soap sense. I definitely wouldn't use stars or stripes on its own and just leave it chillin forever and then use the mitt on it. BUT as a touchless system together, or for pushing a traditional neutral soap a little higher or lower down the pH scale based on the dirt you're dealing with, its versatility can't be beat.
Also Martin if you have a glass shower I've got an amazing pro-tip. Clean the glass up, then throw some diluted Snake Oil in a pump foamer, hit the shower doors with it, and then lightly work it into the door with a microfiber towel starting at top. Once you're at the bottom rinse it off, dry/buff it and enjoy the crystal clear spot free glass as it sheets everything off for months and months (at least at our house).
@@muchachogrande2019 I get the apprehension. I am just glad Bob is such an avid UA-camr to show us how easy it is to use his products!
Wow, amazing write up and comment. I’ve definitely heard of the products and seen many channels like BLAS play with them. I appreciate the knowledge. I’d love to use them but don’t really have a circumstance for them. Snake Oil might be on my list though.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa yeah I can understand the apprehension at first, it's just odd that there still seems to be a lot of people that won't accept it as safe no matter what info is given or what they're shown.
Sometimes I feel like I'm saying Voldemort or something when I say Alkaline. Haha
Totally agree with ur choices. The car looks awesome considering what you had 2 work with
Ty
I highly recommend Griot's Garage 3 in 1 as a topper every 3 months or so. Its a hybrid wax/ ceramic based detailer. It sits on top of you ceramic coating and works with it enhancing shine, slickness and prevents etching because of the wax element. Use this once you've washed and dried the car and simply spray and buff to a shine. It's adds beading and a bit of UV protection too. I use CQuartz UK 3.0 AND S.I.C combined, this every now and then to top everything off. I've not had to use my Carpro Descale wash yet or Spotless.
Ya, I have used the 3in1. Great product. Thanks for the advice
Great video as usual! I’ve been looking to “super clean” my ceramic coating and will likely be using Descale. I’m wondering if you’d also recommend Carpro Lift to work on the “alkaline” side of the pH scale. Or would Descale + Reset suffice just fine? Wasn’t sure if I needed to take care of all aspects of the pH scale for a more “complete” decon wash. Thanks so much
I would just pick one or the other. No need to get crazy and kill that coating. U could also clay and use some iron remover to help.
Hey there, great video as always! I find your videos very instructive and useful!
Do you think a rinseless solution would neutralise the acid brought by spotless 2.0? I'm asking cause this would allow me to try it in my garage where I do not have a hose. I was also wondering whether iron remover and tar remover could be washed with a rinseless or waterless solution instead of a pressure washer...
Well, I it should as it’s the same as washing with soap and water. Maybe a little higher Ph Rinseless like ADG WIPEOUT would be a good choice as it’s a PH of 9.
@@DetailingBreakdown thank you! I've only got ONR, duragloss 931 and echo2 at the moment, I think I'll go maybe with a higher concentration while prewashing to be safer
@@giacomo6281 ya, u should be fine. Just clean well
@@DetailingBreakdown perfect, thank you!
Mark, your RS mk3 deserves a new paint job!
And then good ceramics and maintenance to avoid future hard water spots!
Yessir! It’s paint is failing but also has water spots on the railing paint. Lol, it’s a mess. He got it like that so it’s not his fault. Still a cool car.
Hello ! Had the same issues on my car due to ceramic coating : it rained a lot then was very hot on a sunny day with the water beading still on the car. The water spot was so dep into the clearcoat that I had to wetsand some parts ! I'll never use ceramic coating again, never had a single problem with carnauba wax or sealant. They are some thread only speaking about this.
I wet sanded and compounded and polished this car about 1 month ago. It’s paint failure.
What specific ceramic coating did you use sir?
@@weave4181 when?
@@weave4181 Cquartz uk 3.0
@@mrguillaa6601 had same issue with cquartz UK whole car black paint water spotted.
Were you able to find a solution for that water spots?
Unfortunately, not.
I feel you could get the water spots out with a little paint correction and compound/polish
@@jairincato6159 id have to say, ur feeling are wrong as that was tried and much more
Amigo, isso que você usa depois do spotiless é sabão neutro ?
Awesome video and product review/content good friend
Ty
Deep etched water spots are never coming of with a water spot remover. The type of strength required for that would cause too much damage to the clear coat in order to remove those spots.
That car is also in need of a polish. I would have just do a clayless decon and light polish.
Already did that
@@DetailingBreakdown oh, did that take care of it?
@@DetailingBreakdown oh, did that take care of it?
@@SpartanKyuubi I CLAYED wet sanded, compounded, polishes. It’s paint failure. Nothing can be done
Avi has shown the acidity in a post in the carpro group of descale using a digital tester as he states the tester strips are inaccurate and are in the ballpark but definitely not accurate to the number. It has a ph of 3.5 concentrated and 3.75 diluted. You can checkout the carpro group and search for it to see the video.
I just went by their website. I should be able to trust what they write. But thank u for the help. Products don’t always have accurate descriptions
@@DetailingBreakdown Good catch. Not the first time I have seen something on sky car care that wasn't quite right. I'll let Corey know so he can update it.
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa right on, also says spotless is a 4 and Descale is a 6
@@DetailingBreakdown Makes sense for spotless. Descale def needs to be changed. Iron X foam probably has a ph of 6-6.5ish
@@BelLavoroAutoSpa good to know
I used carpro descale , didnt work for me as well.
It’s ok for weaker situations. Or it’s good for DECON Wash or strip wash.
Kock Chemie and Gyon , the rest is pure marketing .
I don’t understand
@@DetailingBreakdown
Why don't you understand? if you use specific products for certain problems and they don't work as promised in the advertisements, what is that? pure marketing and zero functionality!
@@muriloschutz I agree, but I think these will work in certain situations. Same as other products.