Dodge Dart engine bay wire clean up/ new electrical panel and build update
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- Опубліковано 6 сер 2024
- Been doing lots of re/wiring on my 1968 Dodge Dart. Made a new panel for under the dash for the MSD ignition box, the MSD coil, the starter relay and a new MSD 2step box! The engine bay on my Dodge Dart looks really sharp for my small block mopar 360 now!
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Wire cleanup looks great. It’s amazing how much goes away when you boil it down to necessities for racing. Heater box? Delete!
Really cleaning up the engine bay nicely ! Love it , a guy just forgets how pristine and real your Dart is then here is a complete run down and details ! 👍 Thanks for the inspiration keep up the great vids!
Thanks a lot bro! Glad you like the vids. I always try to make a vid that I would watch. Thanks again for watching.
Looks great! Glad to see it's coming along just fine. Can't wait till you start racing this year!
No doubt! Can’t wait. Thanks again for watching
Great work as always mate. Looking kills buddy. Love your work and always waiting for your informative videos.
Thanks again for watching!
NICE....👀 looking sweet..!!
Just love the attention to detail🤟🏼
Thanks bro and thanks for watching
Nice job mate, looking great!
👍🏻 thanks bro!
Lookin' nice and clean under the hood! I would spray that ground strap body color so it will blend in and not jump out at ya. Just a suggestion. Keep up the great work!
HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
Ya that’s a good idea. I think I will send a black 4 gauge down to frame tho. Thanks for watching
Nice clean install
Thanks bro!
Nice job on that! Getting rid of the ballast resistor with the msd 6 was one of my highlights wiring it up as well. I had an msd quit and now I'm wondering if keeping it cool in the cab instead of the firewall would have kept it working
Looking good! 👍👍
Nice work buddy
Thanks bro!
Hey great job
Thanks bud
Really nice job with the wiring. I did the same with my Chrysler 340, except I decided to mount my MSD Blaster coil on the firewall using the rubber feet supplied. I was surprised that you didn't use better insulation than just a grommet for the coil HT output lead to the distributor. That baby kicks out more than 40K volts! If I had gone down that route, I would have used an MSD 8211 Firewall Feed Thru ($20 from Summit). I would send you my unused one, but the postage from Australia is ridiculous! With my installation, the engine was not running well - missing etc, so I turned off all the lights in my garage (it was night -time), ran the engine, and sure enough there was the blue corona effect on my HT coil lead to the distributor - I had routed it too close to the firewall. I moved it further away - problem solved!
I really love the Dart and watching the videos you have posted. The car is a huge credit to you. Cheers!
Oh man. Didn’t even know about that product. Would have looked into that for sure. I’ll keep an eye on it for sure, the grommet I used was quite think insulated rubber so should be ok but thanks for the tip. Thanks for watching the vids glad you enjoy them!
Excelente trabajo amigo tu auto esta impecable
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Looking good! I put my new wiring panel behind the backseat. Fuel pump relays,msd,nos controller, ect. Not a good idea. Why I asked you about pulling out your backseat with a cage. More wiring
Ahhhhh ya that would be difficult for working on.
Loooks great, I still have a heater box not sure where I would mount a panel similar to yours ..
Some guys put the msd in the glove box. Thanks for watching
I really enjoy watching your . I like the upper radiator hose. Who makes it and where can I get it? Is the lower hose the same?
Check out my video on it! I made it. Lower hose is stock type. Thanks for watching
I always thought thought those cool msd boxes looked great under the hood . But mine is the globe box. it's just better in the high and dry , a little common sense is sometimes better than my small ego
Ya fun to show off but dry and cool under dash is the best place for it. Thanks for watching
Do have 4 wheel disk brakes? If so how is it for daily driving with a stock master cylinder ? Thanks for every video 👍🏻
Nope. Disks in front and drums in back. It is a street car but not a daily driver. Thanks for watching
Hey Joe, nice job on the wiring! Really like it. Off topic question, are those tti headers? If so how’s the fit to the chassis? Good ground clearance?
Yo bro yes tti. For is great. Ground clearance no problem. But straight up have to remove engine to get in and out. Have even had heads still can’t get them out. But would buy again.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop
Sweet thanks for the reply, I’ve got a set to put on was just curious ahead of time. Winter sucks....
Ya winter is lame! Good time for projects tho! Thanks for watching bro! And good luck on the project
How much of your under dash harness is original? Did you bypass the ammeter?
I'm a bit late to the video, but nice work!
All good bro! Thanks for watching
Hey I just bought a project 71 Valiant that has a 440/727. I was wondering if you had any suggestions on how I should approach the restoration? The car needs a lot of work in the interior, the paint and body is shot, the suspension needs work, the electrical wiring is a bit of a mess
Also I'm curious what you did for a coolant overflow tank on your car? I went and picked up a universal Dorman tank but it looks like you have a pretty stealth setup
Ya just a universal one off summit racing. Well as where to start, make it run and drive decent and go from there. All depend on what you want. But a running rolling project is the best. Then you can enjoy while you up grade. Have fun!
One question Joe. With the added length of heavy gauge wire going to the battery, do you lose much voltage from the alternator?
No loss that I can see. I am running a 10 g to panel under dash and then a 6g straight to battery now. Thanks for watching
Very nice. Installed 2 step my self in fall. No issues for me. Not quite sure where you went wrong as you did not give a lot of details or show where your wiring went except for a button on wheel.
Ya I thought about that after. But red to key on power, black ground, grey into tack line with msd and the blue I wired to the button and the other side of button was key on power as well. That how they showed. The light on the box is on all the time and dosnt stop the rpm limit no matter where you set it. Even unplugged th power from the button and the light is still always lit.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop is the button you are using normally closed? I have my blue wire connected to the wire on the line lock and the switch is normally open. When pushed it opens the current to the 2 step and activates. I also have my power wire run to a switch so I can turn off and on the 2 step so it doesn’t run when on street or when I am in a burn out box.
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Simpsons Speed Shop so I was wondering about your 12v switched wire from the MSD box you said you hooked to the "old coil wire" . So with Dodge, does that wire have 12v when the key is in on position and engine running? Im asking because originally my 70 Cougar from factory would only boost the coil with a 12v charge to help the points start engine quicker but after the engine was running that same wire would reduce to 6-7 volts. You need that 12v "switched" wire to be on a 12v circuit that has a constant 12v only with key on. Like I said, not sure how Dodge did their coil wire. I have mine hooked to a Painless Wiring 7 circuit auxiliary fuse block part number 70207. Maybe this is why your 2 step is not working correctly.
So did you just keep the battery cut off switch after I told you how to wire your alternator like mine? Just remember one thing, wiring the switch to the alternator with it on the battery side dose cut off the engine but even with the switch in the off position the alternator power wire is still always hot.
I haven’t checked that key in coil wire after car is running and no sure what the difference between Ford and Mopar would be, but it didn’t have any thing to do with the 2step, they were not cone fed in any way, although the problem with the 2step was it was not get a full 12 volts. Got that sorted now. Yes wire for alternator is now always hot but works great!
Nice work! What are thee dimensions of your panel please?
Panel ended up being 20x10 with a small return bend on bottom. Just give it a bit of stability. Thanks for watching
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop Last question: I am dealing with an aluminum block, How did you ground your panel? Thanks again for responding.
The body is grounded and the plate is bolted to firewall so grounded thru the car. When I relocated the batterie I move ground directly to frame.
No brake booster? Drum brakes front? Does that stop?
Disk in front. Stops ok. Will upgrade eventually. Thanks for watching
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop 340 is best engine what the mopar make. That why I look. Mopar men can't get to heaven they already live in heaven. ;)
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So your car was originally B7 blue?
Ya dunno if b7 but it was originally blue
Before and after pic????????
Watch some old vids or check out my Instagram. Thanks for watching
Just a side note, but why is a 360 so much louder than a comparable 340, or is it my imagination? I go to the drags on a regular basis and I've noticed this phenomena!
No , your right my 340 has long tube headers and flowmasters but probably half the cam and compression ! Might also be tired !
@@mikesr3407 I've owned 2 different cars with 340s and all 360s I've noticed are louder...something's different!
Well there's 20 more cubes , should know but might be stroke ! Plus 30 yrs difference in build ! My 340 has factory x heads and equal length headers pro-form Holley m 1 style dual plane intake rest I will find out next winter, can't afford it this year!
@@mikesr3407 may be the stroke difference
@@mikesr3407 The thing is, I've heard 273s that sound the exact same as a 340s, but not 360s...just an observation
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The rust over sprayed brake line coming out the master cylinder tho 🤮
Haha that has been addressed.
You still have power steering? Man ditch that heavy power robbing beast!
Power steering will stay, for now. Still a street car
Oh yeah. Do you love me? 😍💋 💝💖❤️
Ummmm. No.
@@SimpsonsSpeedShop 😂😂😂😂😂