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1999 Chevy Tahoe Rear Shoe Replacement (Part 2) - EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2012
- 1999 Chevy Tahoe Rear Shoe Replacement (Part 2) - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: www.ericthecarguy.com/
See part 1: • 1999 Chevy Tahoe Rear ...
As you've probably figured out by now this is part 2 of the 2 part series on this Tahoe brake job, it pretty much involves reassembly and a few tricks of how to get the best brake adjustment possible. Rear shoe replacement can be daunting but with a little time and the right tools it can be overcome.
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ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Its just funny how even when I’m working on some rat eaten old farm truck its Eric who’s guiding me through the process once again. Thanks so much man!
This is by FAR the BEST video i ve seen on you tube.Everything shown you can ACTUALLY see.Even right down to the torn glove.Thank YOU>
This video is EXACTLY what I needed which is for 11-inch brakes! Thanks! 11" and 10" drum brakes are totally different on these vehicles. The RPO code in the glove box for 11" brakes is JB6...
Well presented and great detail.
Thanks a lot man.
Thumbs up for part1 and 2...
I’m ashamed I’m watching this 10 years later..😅 you are the man
Great video helped me finish a project I didn't start , well shown.. I had watched a different channel and was worse off. The way you laid them out made all difference. Thanks
Hey Eric awesome . You made my day I always have a lot of issues with the springs . Thank you.
I really like the emphasis you put on the final adjustment, and the explanation of how that star wheel works for automatic adjustment later. There are so many moving parts with drum brakes, I'm surprised the model has remained all these years.
The tape on the shoes, brilliant! I have always been insane about keeping the shoes clean during re-assembly. This will help me relax a little during my installs.
Great video bud. You reiterate what I tell my sons about proper tools for proper jobs. As you said, drum brakes don't have to be screwed with much at all and this is a good refresher for old guys but best of all..a how to for the young guys coming up. 1 I have a temper and 2 hearing from someone other than dad seems to matter. Even though they've seen me build race motors and cars from the ground up...I get "I know dad" or "I don't think that's right". Kinda like a baseball coach telling them the same crap you've been telling them and all of a sudden it makes sense. I know, maybe it's my approach. Basically, good job on the videos. BTW, nice tip on taping the pads.
Thank you Eric, silly enough you helped me with my second drum brake in my eleven years of fixing cars.
Same here!
Thanks Erick, just on time for the break job this weekend on my chevy suburban
Thank you for such a informative video you explained it so well . Just finished doing the rear brakes on my 98 Chevy Tahoe following your instructions worked out perfectly.
Boy Eric I hope you never quit doing what you’re doing, I learned so much from your teaching and have done repair jobs I’ve never thought I could do on my own, thanks.
Thanks
Nice video, as usual Eric!
It bears mentioning that if you jack up the entire rear of the vehicle, instead of one side at a time, the front wheels MUST be chocked for safety as the rear wheel drive vehicle can easily roll forward or backwards if both rear wheels of the vehicle are lifted!
Also, if the truck has a posi-track rear axle, both rear wheels need to be lifted and securely supported or you won"t be able to turn the drum to check for proper shoe fitment.
Cheers!
Thank you for making this video, I'm about to change my 97 chev rear break, God bless you brother!!
Excellent tutorial for doing this job and service! Thanks Eric
Have a Great Memorial day weekend Eric.
You probably won't see this comment, but this video was excellent, Eric. Your other drum brake videos were great (and taught me how to deal with drum brakes), but this one is on another level. The quality, clarity, and approachability of your explanations were fantastic.
Followed your advice, got the $12 brake tool kit from HF, made the job so much easier. Those springs do pack a wallop.
Excellent job of explaining this procedure. Thanks.
Well after watching this, I conquered the job! Mine was slightly different but your tips were great and helped me immensely! I think if you get the drum back on, your're ok. but I must admit, keeping the shoes aligned was tricky. And replacing the springs is much tougher than people think! Alas, I used regular tools so it took me over 2 hours. My adjuster works perfectly. I forget the strut piece and had to go back in and loosen my tension on one side but that was easy to resolve. One thing folks, be careful with your adjuster! My cap came off and I was going crazy trying to figure out how it got re-installed on the long spring side. Both sides have a groove that fits each shoe. Good job with all your points Eric!
Once again, you SAVE me. I am one of those girls you mentioned.
The reason that most folks watch the "back brake" videos is that drum brake component replacement will prolly be the most involved thing that the average DYI guy wants. He wants: windshield wiper change; front brake pads and rotor change; oil and air filter change; rear drum and brake shoes assembly change. There are also tricks to getting these components off and cleaning them. After this is an intermediate level.
Hey mane you really really helped me replaced the break shoe but I'm still havin break problems
great video and job it help me in lot I didn't know how to work on my Tahoe 1997 thanks again hopping the you make more videos
Thank you man. Your videos are the best.
Thank you very much that was my first time doing drum brakes and got it done without any real complication thanks for the video man
you explain the process very well thanks. Have you ever thought of using grafite for the self adjusting thread? It won’t collect dust
Man, thanks a bunch! you answers every question I've had
Really well explained. Thanks, good video.
I thank you for this Great Tutorial video,Eric👍🏼
Once again, an excellent video
A real, professional mechanic, wow., thanks !!!
Love your videos!! However I did notice that you never torqued the lug nuts when putting the tire back on.
Great video on breaks!
very informative, thanks Eric!
Oh man thank you for posting this.
Very informative! Thanks for covering it so well! I have an Astro van, Same design as this. So I don't need pics only if I book mark this! Thanks again man! I will say you are one of the few on you tube that actually used the right tools. I can just follow your order point by point. One question, instead of pulling the emergency cable, wouldn't it be better to just push it down and pop it back up 5 times from the lever inside?
Good tutorial ... thanks Eric !
Thank you this videos was a tremendous help 👍
Thank you Eric your video was very helpful
Yes. Turn the adjuster star wheel the other direction, and squeeze the shoes together. You may need to also squeeze the shoes together at the caliper to get the ends of the caliper that push the shoes out, pushed in enough for the drum to clear.
I heard GM brakes were a nightmare but damn that is a complicated brake drum setup. It's like putting pieces of a puzzle together!!! What a pain in the ass!!! But they do last a long time so thats a plus!
This guy definitely knows what he's doing
Enjoyed that, all the drum brake jobs I have done have been because of leaking fluid.
Good stuff- well explained-
A MILLION THANKS!!!
thanks for this video I've never commented on a utube video but this was a huge help so thank u
man you're awesome at these how to vids. oldschool style but in HD :D
Thank you that help the whole lot I don't know how to do it but now I do
nice job...well done....very helpfull...the mecanic rips you of for this job...
thank you for your video very helpful
Awesome video, thank you
Good video. I came here just for the part with the adjuster at the end. I was slightly baffled when it came to how to set that right.
Gracias amigo por el video
Is there any way you could show how to do the lever assembly with the new Spring hardware I could not get it so I just use the old one, rite about 4:13 inbthe video. Thanks
Thanks Eric!!!
Just had the local GM dealer change my brake shoes on my wife's '99 Yukon. The brakes were dragging so much it smelled like the shoes were on fire. I should have done them myself but I wanted them to change the rear axle bearings at the same time. Bottom line was they lost their bearing puller and couldn't do them and I had to take both wheels off to adjust the brakes myself even after taking it back to them. The mechanic told the service manager that even if they were tight they would self adjust in a bit. Couldn't believe it, once the brakes are adjusted too tight the only way they will self adjust is if they wear down and who needs that.
Loverly job eric :-), now i know why the brake shoes are different sizes.
Hope you didnt have a headache just after you put the wheel back on, your blink speed slowed down and some people do that when in pain :-(
As allways a great tutorial, allways appreciated :-)
I've got a 89 Chevy truck with180K that I'm changing the rear breaks on. The inside of the drum looks fine to me. I cleaned it and it is mostly smooth. Can I continue to use the drum or should I replace it? I honestly don't know.
i cant believe you grew a mustache in less than half a hour.
I did shoes several years ago on a Sentra with a flat-head screw driver and a pair of pliers- biggest pain in the ass, and those springs hurt! Listen to Eric; buy the tools and bleed less. ;)
FYI Harbor Freight has a drum brake tool kit for $12: Item#97804
Great vid as always Eric! I watch'em all because even if they don't relate to what I'm doing in the present, each one broadens or confirms the automotive knowledge I have.
8:49 Bwahaha there is sooo much truth to that with my wife LOL She has it made she doesn't have to worry about anything on our cars. Because she knows if anything is wrong it becomes my problem not hers. Oh well I guess this way she has to keep me around ☺☺☺
Great Vid!!
I just burst out laughing @8:43 .You just described what happens after 6hours working on the car
great job as allways eric i allways learn somthing good from you ... i was laffin at ur dirt mustache lol stay dirty
Are the two spring that hook to that very top spring holder that protrudes out at the top not counting the big hook spring.Are the other two springs identical or is one spring shorter?
hi eric,very nice show you have back thare. do you have any video shows how to replace brake fluid? i can't found any
.stay dirty
funs from israel
hello Eric I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999 it is backfiring
awesome thanks great video
Hi, I always buy the better quality friction material because they grip better and last longer, the downfall is the rotors & drums wear out faster from the harder friction material. There is a term called brake horsepower to determine the effective gripping action of the brakes... This is a good question and I would like to see comments from other people.
When choosing brake material (linings) shoes and pads as needed for your vehicle it helps to know what it is you want from your brakes as far as performance needed in the required area.
For instance, on trucks that tow or haul things, you would want softer break linings that will leave more residue, but stop you more quickly.
Things that require short burst but intense breaking may require ceramic...
To be sure, you must align your brake lining needs with your rotor requirements...to harsh of a pad will deplete softer metal rotors.
Seek professional advice...and ask plenty of questions...
Most often, oem equipment is what you need unless someone has changed something.
Manufacturers are keen to provide relative hardware to relative hardware.
No one wants to get sued
DID YOU GUYS SEE THE CRAZY ALLIGATOR AD!!! WoW!
when you changed your brake (disc or drum) have you lubricate everything like slider ,friction point and more? if's not maybe your brake got stuck and worn them faster (sorry bad english )
same exact truck, changed rear brakes last night and rear passenger drum will not go back on , is there a way i can back off on the adjustment so the drum will go back on ?
God bless You My Friend
The parking lever kit is sold separate from the hardware kit, there is also a LH & RH parking lever kit.
Its my understanding that some of these Chevy drum systems actually use the emergency/parking brake to self adjust. Our '94 Silverado still has the original shoes from when it was new because the parking brake cable broke soon after we bought it. I always adjusted them and wondered why they always looked new, but we would go through front pads and rotors like crazy. After 200,000mi. Now I know why.
Hey Eric, I really love your videos. I wish you were in Austin, Texas. I have a 1993 Suburban and the fuel gauge is not reading correctly. How can I fix that? I found you last night on Roku and ended up watching about 8 videos until 3am! This morning I watched this video series. I feel smarter already! Thanks.
When You are adjustingthe shoes atthe end are the shoes supposed to touch the drum? or touch slightly? or not at all but close?
what a choice warp rotors or take a chance at warping the car. maybe ceramic pads . If you have shoes in the rear make sure they are adjusted. they don't help much but when they are out of adjustment the fronts take a heat beating.
It depends on what you get. I've bought plenty of stuff that's perfectly adequate (and sometimes awesome) at Harbor Freight. I've bought other stuff that was indeed total crap. The trick is to read the reviews of other people who've already bought what you're looking at.
Sorry my cat jump on me. The pedal goes straight to the floor while the truck is in reverse. I later discovered that the brake line on the right rear has a tare. Could this be the problem? And if so how can I fix it.
Would this be the same for a 2001 tahoe?
Real nice.
Nice video. But I hate people using impact wrench on the lug nuts with no torque stick. I do everything myself, not like I take my cars into shop for any reason other than alignment or tire change, but even then they manage to torque them like hell. If I work on my friends car half of the time I need a pipe on the breaker bar cause some tech used impact on them before.
anti-sieze on brakes adheres that center hub to the drum, when anti-sieze heats up it acts more as a cement than a anti-sieze lubricant
When u go in reverse to make that final adjustment, do u press the E-brake or just the regular brake??? I was told it was the E-brake just trying to clear that out.
Brake pedal!
Hello Eric, I have a 1997 Chevy Tahoe LT 1500 4wd, May2014 I put new brakes on the front, right side I had to replace the rotor and the caliper, about two weeks ago, My brakes locked up, they were hot, and smoking, after they cooled down, I was able to drive, or so I thought, they locked up again. A guy helped me, he blead the brakes, and I was heading home, well they locked up again, I waited for an hour, on the road towards home, tried to stop and nothing, pedal went straight to the floor, I had to use the emergency brakes to stop. If the car is in park its cool, but once I put it in reverse pedal to the floor it still rolls backwards .
I replaced the shoes springs and drum on my tahoe same year. I got the shoes assembled but the drum won't fit. Adjuster is all the way in. Is there a way to compress the brake cylinder in. Or is there a common mistake I made?
+jonnymanjensn900 Hey Brother - Did anyone get to answer you ? I am asking because I am having the EXACT SAME ISSUE on my 1999 Tahoe/ 4WD - "Drum won't fit. Adjuster is all the way in. Is there a way to compress the brake cylinder in. Or is there a common mistake I made? Please Help !!!
I don't know if anybody noticed but the bottom spring for the adjuster is on the outside it has to be on the inside or the adjuster arm on a GM will drag it
Call your wife or GF comment is so true. Lol Great Vid as usual.
Wonder how Eric's subaru is doing .
whenever I see shoes that appear to have been overheated (cracks or loose friction material) I recommend replacing the springs to my customer. Excessive heat will weaken the springs. Just an all around good idea anyway
is it the same for suburbans
I ha to change my truck drum break because they have never been changed since the '99
And now when I break my from brakes are not doin all the job cause I had to change my front brakes twice in within 5 months
Thanks
this one is an excellent video one of your best ,but I've said that too many times . I think I've lost my creditability.
i'm picturing the people on the car lot looking at a dude driving with yellow sun glasses , slamming on the brakes going backwards for no aparent reason... :D
Im subbing
I noticed you didn’t not toque the lug nuts with a toque wrench?