I HATE trying to remove the old stuck on paper gaskets, especially when the previous owner used a tube load of RTV! Maybe its because I suck horribly at it no matter how much practice I get lol I usually use some gasket removal spray, spray it on & let it soak in for 10-15 minutes and it makes the job much easier. Fantastic as usual Eric! Stop making me wait for part 2 of these videos! Such a tease lol
Eric you are the mechanic next door I never had. I started taking out the fan shroud, and before I knew it, the pump was laying in the trunk of my car. It went that fast. I going into town tomorrow to get a new one. You're a good man, sir!
Eric the cool thing about your videos is that not only do they show how jobs are done but they also show people who think badly of mechanics what we have to go through sometimes. And why some jobs cost more to be done
thank you for these videos, i got a 98 tahoe as well, just noticed a small leak on the water pump today, this video was a great refresher.. thank you again very much.. gonna have my son help, he just got his license last week and got himself a 2000 impala saturday.
hey, Eric , with the help of your vid I changed my water pump but just like kirk I had nothing coming from the weep holes, but what led me to believe it was the pump was coolant was flowing from the center/front of the motor also the temp gauge was fluctuating back and forth with cold air coming from the vents. I have spent 13yrs in the army 11B until I had a good part of my leg taken off by an IED. now I work at the toughest prison in OHIO Lucasville I have done pretty much everything, now with your help I have changed I water pump. my family is shocked and im stoked thanks
Replace hose clamps with screws down type... Replace hoses if old....MarkMannM2. Good video... Oh, take a picture of your surpenteen belt before you remove it.
Excellent job as usual Eric. Thanks so much for sharing. Sometimes when I encounter the problem of aligning the water pump to the block I will temporarily use studs threaded into the block along with 2 original bolts (with their threads coated in RTV). Once the pump has been situated properly, I will remove the temporary studs and install the remaining 2 bolts (again, with the lead threads coated in RTV). I believe I learned this trick from you in one of your older tutorials. Again, superb.
This next video was a big help, too! Thanks for taking time to show how to prep the surfaces. Getting those bolts started was probably the most difficult task in the whole process. In the end, I used a very small amount of clear RTV.
I noticed that 12 people did not like this video , it shows you that they are on the wrong channel , I do appreciate all your Videos Eric and thank you so much for it , I have learned a great deal just looking at your videos , like today I greased all my drive shaft and the U joints on my 05 Toyota 4 runner and next I will do the transfer case and front and rear differentials all by myself thanks to the video that you Posted a while back , Again thank You so Much
I am barely learning to DIY on my car that got passed onto me and it has lots of problems such as leaks from the crank seal and motor mount. So anything that can help, it doesnt have to be that exact thing to fix but if you have a that car or any car with a similar setup to work on, that would be great! And much appreciated! Thanks for your time!
Dont listen to him, we are here for the great work you do and not for your video editing skills. I believe im not the only one here that think you do us a great service with your videos and runs to your channel whenever in doubt on how to fix something. keep up the great work!
I got a 99 Chevy Suburban with the 5.7 and 177,00 miles on it. Changed idle pulley last week and now water pump this coming weekend. Very confident in doing so, thanks to your very awesome detailed video, except I will be taking advantage of Autozone's loaner tool program for the fan nut :) Thanks again, God bless!
Great videos Eric, I really approve of these....! Why you ask? Because I don't own a Subaru or a Honda! I own trucks! lol.... I actually performed this service on my 1991 Chevy C1500 1/2 ton 2 WD With the 350 TBI. It was a snap... took about an hour maybe a little over because I cleaned everything up along the way. My engine looks like it did when the truck was new! No grease, gunk or the usual stuff... and it's such a pleasure to work on! Could you possibly do a steering gearbox swap too?
Thank you for a great video and instructions. You helped show and explain things that others do not do to make things understandable and prepare for the unexpected.
The last time I used gasket tack spray I had the same experience that you did. I thought I must have done something wrong, maybe not waiting long enough. But at that stage of the repair, you don't have much else to do. Maybe spray it on before you clean the old surfaces. Nice review, Eric. Too bad this style of cooling fan is fast becoming obsolete.
Do you follow the bleeding procedure shown in the video or do you just top it off and put the cap on? If you're just putting the cap on that's not enough. You need to bleed the air out manually. Having a bleeder does make filling the system easier that's for sure but it doesn't guarantee that you'll get all the air out.
I'm a Ford guy, but to give credit where credit is due, the Chevy 350 is a fantastic engine. Anyone who works on cars needs to know about this engine, because they're so ubiquitous. And the reason they're so ubiquitous is the fact that they're really great engines. Glad to see ETCG working on one, instead of a Honda or a Subaru. :-)
Hey there, love your videos. One thing to add, I would have installed the upper radiator shroud after starting the car, getting it hot and pressureed and checking for leaks. Also let the RTV cure prior to starting.
really nice that your customers give you there vehicle to you with a full gas tank! In the garage I work, often you see that it's running on the reserve. So you really need to tank it up a little to take a test drive..
nicely done, Eric. I haven't fired up the Yuke yet but confident, with your good guidance, including dropping stuff, that we're going to be good to go.
What have found lately that seems to work really good on those hose clamps is using a vise grip. No fighting once you get it locked in keeping it tight.
Eric I've got a 1990 Chevy Silverado. I was driving it today and it was making a lot of noise in the engine bay. I had a loud pulley earlier this week but it sounded like it was coming from the top. Maybe the air conditioner. I don't know. But I let it sit overnight came out the next morning to go to school no issues. Sound went away. But today it got really really really loud. Pulled into my cousins driveway and they were screaming to cut it off as I was opening my hood. I did. And low and behold there's what looks like oil absolutely everywhere. The wheel wells, the hood, my battery, just everywhere. Thought it was oil (because oil is black.) it didn't smell like oil it ended up being antifreeze. Checked my radiator. Empty. I was told replacing the the water pump would fix it. But the pulley in front of the water pump shakes really really violently. What do I do? Please help.
A good rule of thumb is 6L and below is a small block. Above 6L would be a big block. The US used to put some massive engines in their cars at one point. Those were the days.
I'm just talking about common modern truck displacements. From that Tahoe's generation and up. But you're right about the varying (insignificantly different in many cases) displacements in cubic inches.
When doing my own I always paint the new pump the day before, can't stand having a rusty water pump on an otherwise all painted engine. I also would have replaced those heater hoses simply to save having to replace them a year or 2 later when it's harder to do. But for a customer you can't go to the extra time and expense unless the hoses really are bad or they ask you to paint it (and I never had that happen). 😉 Great video Eric, two thumbs up.
Thanks a whole lot for a great video series. I love your editorializing that complements your thorough and detailed explanations that not only cover whats and whys, but also how you're doing it, with possible alternative scenarios. And, even though I have an old Mercedes diesel, I like that you always tell us what wrench and its size that you are using. It just helps me to get a fuller picture of the task in my own mind, by feeling more connected to what's going on. When do we get the diesel channel?
Upon mounting the water pump, I use two wooden dowels instead of the bolts to guide the water pump up in. It holds the gaskets in place. Start screwing the bottom bolts and then pull the wooden dowels out and screw in the top bolts.
Hey guys I've got a handy tip for keeping your gaskets in place while installing the pump/letting the adhesive cure. Take 4 long thin screwdrivers and place them in each of the bolt holes and into the block. Remove one and thread the bolt into the block, then repeat until all bolts are tightened. This will keep the gaskets in place and prevent you from having to manhandle the pump around while tightening them. You can use screw drivers, punches, whatever is handy. It makes life a bit easier especially when doing this on a car where there is even less room.
I'm doing a GMC Jimmy with a 4.3 v6 I made two alignment pins for the bottom bolt holes because I couldn't hold it up and get the bolts started I jacked two gaskets trying plus I cut the extra tabs off
Ahahah, wow. Stumbled on your channel a few minutes ago, and I thought the thumbnail for this video looked familiar. I replaced the water pump on a 5.7 a couple months ago. It's very reassuring to know I wasn't the only one dropping the screws and gaskets! Still, I am impressed. This channel in general looks very informative. Keep it up! C:
Thanks for this vid! Love how the gasket starts to slide at 2:31... Might want to let it set up a bit longer and use a bit less spray or maybe put the bolts thru to keep it stationary. Smart move to remove the idler pulley. I'm about to do this on a 99 Yukon.
Great video Eric!...I was having a heck of a time trying to remove the fan clutch. U gave me a great idea. Dexcool is garbage. it did look like your coolant wasn't pre- mix...therefore u were pouring in concentrated coolant? I know it has to be half/half water and coolant.
Amazing videos! Very helpful in so many ways. Would you ever do a video on installing and wiring off roading lights? I want to install some on my Jeep, I'd rather not pay someone to do it.
thermostat allows the engine to warm up to operating temp as quick as possible by not letting coolant from the block circulate to the radiator when at around 90 degrees but it changes car to car it opens allowing the water to go around the radiator and get cooled by the air rushing through it the thermostat opens and closes using a wax core if you wanted to know ad can be found in Haynes manuals but usually placed at the end of the top hose
The fuel filter is in the tank as a part of an assembly in the 8th gen civic. You need to remove the rear seat cushion to get at it. You supposedly need a 'special tool' to remove the lockring that secures the assembly. Look at the 'hondaautomotiveparts' website and enter your vehicle info, then select 'Fuel tank'. You'll then see the illustration of the filter.
In reference to 19:40 in the video. You should do a video on replacing the blend door actuator. And maybe fixing the gas gauge thats on crack if it has that issue.
Thread tape is not for sealing. It's a lubricant used to create a friction weld to make for better sealing. Not the thing I want to do going into an engine block.
a little off topic but i have been researching and i can not seem to find if my 2010 honda civic has a fuel filter or is just an intank filter. any help would be appreciated, great vids by the way keep them coming
can you tell us what is the average mileage for a water pump, before changing it or do you have to just wait till it starts leaking Thanks Eric, Great video
I've read that it depends on the outside block dimensions, not on its displacement per se. So if good engineering will, a small block can have 7 liters and a big block can have 6.3 liters of displacement. And on older engines people say a small block has its distributor cap at the back top of between the cyl heads and the big block has it sitting at the front top of between it. Which i don't know. But Block classification refers to its outside dimensions. Greetings from Germany.
i find your clips pretty educating and more than helpful,, but i kind of hopeing if you calp me with the wqay of changing the peston rings, from A to Z,, i have a mercedes w123 1978, wich i love the most but it needs the rings to be changed,, i need know how to manage that and what tools i need,, i came to your door coz you do make alot of effoert in your clips and explain every thing even piggners can understand what you are talking about,, and thank you for all your work.. regards..
I had the same problem with the gaskets when I did the water pump on my 92 k1500. I used a tiny bit of rtv to hold them in place because the gasket adhesive wouldn't hold.
I've had so many of those bolts break on removal due to corrosion. And yes it is a very bad day. What happens is the water leaks past the threads and corrodes the bolts to the water pump. Ford is even worse because they also go through the timing cover. So you either waste time drilling the bolts or save time and just break the timing cover. Best way to do it is cut off the water pump and timing cover from around the bolts. After that grab the bolts close to the block and they usually come out fairly easy.
if you leave the belt on while you remove the WP pulley bolts it is a lot easier. and i have learned from experience to get the WP in and the hoses connected and fill it with coolant before you go to the trouble of putting the pulleys and belt back on.if you dont see any leaks you go ahead and put the pulley, belt on and fan clutch. then the shroud and whatever wires clipped back. the shroud ba
I've done 3 external GM water pumps and I have what I consider the best method for installing the new pump. Love the video, but saw the gasket fumbling so here's a tip the recipe: take 1 of the pump bolts up to the hardware store get 4 that match the thread and are twice as long cut the heads off of the those new bolts HAND thread them into the bolt holes slide the gaskets on - i don't use sealant crap now slide the new pump on one at a time replace the headless bolts with the factory pump bolts Never had a leak with this method, no need try and hold up the pump and align gaskets while installing I have pics, but not sure I can post them here. Bob in Little Canada
gpawbb I always wandered why we don't just use studs rather than bolts that stretch and can strip seems odd I may arp stud those thanks for the knowledge I know this is a old comment but still helpful
Just did mine right now, I used an adjustable wrench that barely fit over the fan clutch nut, a couple taps and it came loose no problem. I was glad i didn't have to resort to bang on it lol
There are 2 basic GM V8 engine block designs: the Small Block and the Big Block. The Small Block V8 has 5.0, 5.3, 5.7, and 6.2l displacements from the factory, whereas the Big Block V8 has displacements from 6.5l up. Both are quite large, but the Big Block is much larger than the Small Block.
Great videos Eric, I was looking for some basic mechanics classes, but it's kinda hard to find, your videos are just fine for learning how to do things on a car, thank you for the effort you put, you are really helping me! =)
Hello Eric! First off i love your videos i was hoping you could help me out with anything on a 1998 nissan sentra gxe. I know its specific but anything that would resemble on DIY stuff for that car. If anything can you tell me any cars that similar to it that you made videos of. Maybe changing the spark plugs, where or if it even has a cabin air filter, brakes, etc. Just asking for anything on that car or a similar car with the same setup.
Looks like somewhere between 1996 and 1998 they changed the fan from metal to plastic and the tensioner to hydraulic. Only difference I noticed really. What was the CEL on for?
Eric, the worst part of the water pump job is those damn gaskets. The adhesive is a good idea but I went and got myself some threaded rod same size as bolts and I screw them in the bottom two holes to use for support and also allow you to start your top bolts and adjust the gaskets if necessary
EricTheCarGuy i just watched your video while doing this repair but forgot to bleed the system. Driven it around for a couple days probably almost fifty miles or so and was wondering if sometimes it just doesnt need it or if it can naturally bleed itself?
How come you didn't show us how you replaced the thermostat and what it's main purpose is? Where to find the thermostat, removal and install. Thanks, Marc
Thank you very much i just do it by myself it's pretty good :) but not yet fill up the water i hope it will not leak because i had a mess with the RTV ..
replaced a thermostat last year, used harbor freight tools torque wrench. Set it for 19 lsbs broke a bolt and it didnt start leaking until this winter, now thats fixed and now water pump needs replacement. DON'T TORQUE ANY BOLTS MORE THAN 30 FOOT LBS like Erik says, it will be a bad day.
Why was that coolant so "thick", it looked undiluted or high 60% concentration, did you add water afterwards or is it because of the below freezing winter?
Eric, i feel the ding is a little too long, especially when it cuts over to the next clip, may i suggest cutting the audio clip to make it shorter, then adding in a fade out? this will give it the same effect, but wont drag it out as long
I hear ya. I'm doing an old Mercedes diesel, but in one sense, a water pump is a water pump is a water pump. And Eric explains it well. I get a whole lot out of his videos and this series is actually some of his best.
The term big block refers to the deck height of the block not the displacement. For example Chevrolet back in the late 60's early 70s had a 396 cubic inch big block and a 400 cubic inch small block. Chrysler had the 426 cubic inch Hemi, which was called the Elephant engine for very good reason. And now a days Chevy has the LS7 which is 427 cubic inches which is still a small block engine. More than a little confusing I know, especially if you're from Europe...
Its hard to believe you did not replace the bypass hose to the intake or the 90 degree heater hose, those look old and are known to split from heat. A little anti-seize on the clutch threads does wonders to prevent rust. I almost fell over when Eric got out a pipe wrench in part-1
I have a 1998 silverado 5.7 that needs the power steering pump relaxed, do you have a video or link on getting the pump off..I have all the front bolts off and one in the back, but it's still stuck, don't know if it's another bolt or nut that I'm missing.
why not use pipe/thread sealant on those bolts, thats what GM recommends, either way i guess. did you make sure those bolts on the rear cover of the new water pump were tight, have seen those leak, and it actually says in the instructions in the box to do that, not that we ever look at that stuff, lol.
I HATE trying to remove the old stuck on paper gaskets, especially when the previous owner used a tube load of RTV! Maybe its because I suck horribly at it no matter how much practice I get lol
I usually use some gasket removal spray, spray it on & let it soak in for 10-15 minutes and it makes the job much easier.
Fantastic as usual Eric!
Stop making me wait for part 2 of these videos! Such a tease lol
Eric you are the mechanic next door I never had. I started taking out the fan shroud, and before I knew it, the pump was laying in the trunk of my car. It went that fast. I going into town tomorrow to get a new one. You're a good man, sir!
Eric the cool thing about your videos is that not only do they show how jobs are done but they also show people who think badly of mechanics what we have to go through sometimes. And why some jobs cost more to be done
thank you for these videos, i got a 98 tahoe as well, just noticed a small leak on the water pump today, this video was a great refresher.. thank you again very much.. gonna have my son help, he just got his license last week and got himself a 2000 impala saturday.
hey, Eric , with the help of your vid I changed my water pump but just like kirk I had nothing coming from the weep holes, but what led me to believe it was the pump was coolant was flowing from the center/front of the motor also the temp gauge was fluctuating back and forth with cold air coming from the vents. I have spent 13yrs in the army 11B until I had a good part of my leg taken off by an IED. now I work at the toughest prison in OHIO Lucasville I have done pretty much everything, now with your help I have changed I water pump. my family is shocked and im stoked thanks
This just helped me change the water pump on my 1997 Yukon. Thanks...
Replace hose clamps with screws down type... Replace hoses if old....MarkMannM2. Good video... Oh, take a picture of your surpenteen belt before you remove it.
Do believe I can handle this replacement
Excellent job as usual Eric. Thanks so much for sharing.
Sometimes when I encounter the problem of aligning the water pump to the block I will temporarily use studs threaded into the block along with 2 original bolts (with their threads coated in RTV). Once the pump has been situated properly, I will remove the temporary studs and install the remaining 2 bolts (again, with the lead threads coated in RTV).
I believe I learned this trick from you in one of your older tutorials.
Again, superb.
Dude....you're the best DIY instructor on UA-cam...well done!
This next video was a big help, too! Thanks for taking time to show how to prep the surfaces. Getting those bolts started was probably the most difficult task in the whole process. In the end, I used a very small amount of clear RTV.
you do such a good job at actually showing with the camera what you're doing
I noticed that 12 people did not like this video , it shows you that they are on the wrong channel , I do appreciate all your Videos Eric and thank you so much for it , I have learned a great deal just looking at your videos , like today I greased all my drive shaft and the U joints on my 05 Toyota 4 runner and next I will do the transfer case and front and rear differentials all by myself thanks to the video that you Posted a while back , Again thank You so Much
I am barely learning to DIY on my car that got passed onto me and it has lots of problems such as leaks from the crank seal and motor mount. So anything that can help, it doesnt have to be that exact thing to fix but if you have a that car or any car with a similar setup to work on, that would be great! And much appreciated! Thanks for your time!
I TOTALLY dig the way you put our "safety glasses" on!
Thanks for posting this, it was easy to follow and I can appreciate that you're not boring.
Dont listen to him, we are here for the great work you do and not for your video editing skills. I believe im not the only one here that think you do us a great service with your videos and runs to your channel whenever in doubt on how to fix something. keep up the great work!
Just replaced my pump today with your help. Thank you!
Your video editing skills are superb. The best part is the yellow effect when you put on the safety glasses.
Thank you very much for that. I appreciate it very much.
Do you know what the stock mechanical fan fan CFM is gor a 98 gmc k1500 ?
I got a 99 Chevy Suburban with the 5.7 and 177,00 miles on it. Changed idle pulley last week and now water pump this coming weekend. Very confident in doing so, thanks to your very awesome detailed video, except I will be taking advantage of Autozone's loaner tool program for the fan nut :) Thanks again, God bless!
Eric did a fantastic job on this. Thanks. I appreciate the time taken to help us DIY guys.
Great videos Eric, I really approve of these....! Why you ask? Because I don't own a Subaru or a Honda! I own trucks! lol.... I actually performed this service on my 1991 Chevy C1500 1/2 ton 2 WD With the 350 TBI. It was a snap... took about an hour maybe a little over because I cleaned everything up along the way. My engine looks like it did when the truck was new! No grease, gunk or the usual stuff... and it's such a pleasure to work on! Could you possibly do a steering gearbox swap too?
Thank you for a great video and instructions. You helped show and explain things that others do not do to make things understandable and prepare for the unexpected.
The last time I used gasket tack spray I had the same experience that you did. I thought I must have done something wrong, maybe not waiting long enough. But at that stage of the repair, you don't have much else to do. Maybe spray it on before you clean the old surfaces.
Nice review, Eric. Too bad this style of cooling fan is fast becoming obsolete.
best video yet on how to change water pump
Do you follow the bleeding procedure shown in the video or do you just top it off and put the cap on? If you're just putting the cap on that's not enough. You need to bleed the air out manually. Having a bleeder does make filling the system easier that's for sure but it doesn't guarantee that you'll get all the air out.
@EricTheCarGuy im not complaining at all, i have never had a complaint about any of your videos! Just trying to help a fellow youtuber out :-D
I'm a Ford guy, but to give credit where credit is due, the Chevy 350 is a fantastic engine. Anyone who works on cars needs to know about this engine, because they're so ubiquitous. And the reason they're so ubiquitous is the fact that they're really great engines. Glad to see ETCG working on one, instead of a Honda or a Subaru. :-)
LMacNeill agree One of my favorite engines
good job, Eric! I wish all mechanics would be just like You :) Doing repairs with great responsibility and devotion
Hey there, love your videos. One thing to add, I would have installed the upper radiator shroud after starting the car, getting it hot and pressureed and checking for leaks. Also let the RTV cure prior to starting.
really nice that your customers give you there vehicle to you with a full gas tank! In the garage I work, often you see that it's running on the reserve. So you really need to tank it up a little to take a test drive..
nicely done, Eric. I haven't fired up the Yuke yet but confident, with your good guidance, including dropping stuff, that we're going to be good to go.
What have found lately that seems to work really good on those hose clamps is using a vise grip. No fighting once you get it locked in keeping it tight.
Eric I've got a 1990 Chevy Silverado. I was driving it today and it was making a lot of noise in the engine bay. I had a loud pulley earlier this week but it sounded like it was coming from the top. Maybe the air conditioner. I don't know. But I let it sit overnight came out the next morning to go to school no issues. Sound went away. But today it got really really really loud. Pulled into my cousins driveway and they were screaming to cut it off as I was opening my hood. I did. And low and behold there's what looks like oil absolutely everywhere. The wheel wells, the hood, my battery, just everywhere. Thought it was oil (because oil is black.) it didn't smell like oil it ended up being antifreeze. Checked my radiator. Empty. I was told replacing the the water pump would fix it. But the pulley in front of the water pump shakes really really violently. What do I do? Please help.
The tensioner pulley may be the problem. replace it.
Thanks Eric, this was extremely helpful!
LOVE the domestic vehicle videos. Thank you Eric
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It looks like the radiator cap is not fully screwed on or it maybe the camera angle,great video on pump change.
I can not remember how many cans of gasket adhesive I have used over the years. but I'll tell ya, it's been a god send in soo many situations.
A good rule of thumb is 6L and below is a small block. Above 6L would be a big block. The US used to put some massive engines in their cars at one point. Those were the days.
I did the same job last night on my 96 Sierra, its really not a hard job and once the clutch fan is out the rest is pretty easy.
I'm just talking about common modern truck displacements. From that Tahoe's generation and up. But you're right about the varying (insignificantly different in many cases) displacements in cubic inches.
When doing my own I always paint the new pump the day before, can't stand having a rusty water pump on an otherwise all painted engine. I also would have replaced those heater hoses simply to save having to replace them a year or 2 later when it's harder to do. But for a customer you can't go to the extra time and expense unless the hoses really are bad or they ask you to paint it (and I never had that happen). 😉 Great video Eric, two thumbs up.
Thanks a whole lot for a great video series. I love your editorializing that complements your thorough and detailed explanations that not only cover whats and whys, but also how you're doing it, with possible alternative scenarios. And, even though I have an old Mercedes diesel, I like that you always tell us what wrench and its size that you are using. It just helps me to get a fuller picture of the task in my own mind, by feeling more connected to what's going on.
When do we get the diesel channel?
Upon mounting the water pump, I use two wooden dowels instead of the bolts to guide the water pump up in. It holds the gaskets in place. Start screwing the bottom bolts and then pull the wooden dowels out and screw in the top bolts.
Thanks for the vid Eric! I would of loved to see that engine and car when it rolled out of the factory.
Excellent information sir! Thank you!
Hey guys I've got a handy tip for keeping your gaskets in place while installing the pump/letting the adhesive cure. Take 4 long thin screwdrivers and place them in each of the bolt holes and into the block. Remove one and thread the bolt into the block, then repeat until all bolts are tightened. This will keep the gaskets in place and prevent you from having to manhandle the pump around while tightening them.
You can use screw drivers, punches, whatever is handy. It makes life a bit easier especially when doing this on a car where there is even less room.
I'm doing a GMC Jimmy with a 4.3 v6 I made two alignment pins for the bottom bolt holes because I couldn't hold it up and get the bolts started I jacked two gaskets trying plus I cut the extra tabs off
Thank you so much for this video! I should be able to change my water pump!
Thanks alot for the video. Your video's are great. It looks like I'll be fixing mine this weekend.
Ahahah, wow. Stumbled on your channel a few minutes ago, and I thought the thumbnail for this video looked familiar. I replaced the water pump on a 5.7 a couple months ago. It's very reassuring to know I wasn't the only one dropping the screws and gaskets!
Still, I am impressed. This channel in general looks very informative. Keep it up! C:
Thanks for this vid! Love how the gasket starts to slide at 2:31... Might want to let it set up a bit longer and use a bit less spray or maybe put the bolts thru to keep it stationary.
Smart move to remove the idler pulley.
I'm about to do this on a 99 Yukon.
Great video Eric!...I was having a heck of a time trying to remove the fan clutch. U gave me a great idea. Dexcool is garbage. it did look like your coolant wasn't pre- mix...therefore u were pouring in concentrated coolant? I know it has to be half/half water and coolant.
Amazing videos! Very helpful in so many ways. Would you ever do a video on installing and wiring off roading lights? I want to install some on my Jeep, I'd rather not pay someone to do it.
thermostat allows the engine to warm up to operating temp as quick as possible by not letting coolant from the block circulate to the radiator when at around 90 degrees but it changes car to car it opens allowing the water to go around the radiator and get cooled by the air rushing through it the thermostat opens and closes using a wax core if you wanted to know ad can be found in Haynes manuals but usually placed at the end of the top hose
Great work, thank you Eric!
The fuel filter is in the tank as a part of an assembly in the 8th gen civic. You need to remove the rear seat cushion to get at it. You supposedly need a 'special tool' to remove the lockring that secures the assembly. Look at the 'hondaautomotiveparts' website and enter your vehicle info, then select 'Fuel tank'. You'll then see the illustration of the filter.
In reference to 19:40 in the video. You should do a video on replacing the blend door actuator. And maybe fixing the gas gauge thats on crack if it has that issue.
Thread tape is not for sealing. It's a lubricant used to create a friction weld to make for better sealing. Not the thing I want to do going into an engine block.
a little off topic but i have been researching and i can not seem to find if my 2010 honda civic has a fuel filter or is just an intank filter. any help would be appreciated, great vids by the way keep them coming
I'm falling in love with American cars now
Just 1 more excellent repair video. U really good at what U do. Thank U. Bowzer
Good job. One bit though. The etc on the threads... Would you be better waiting a day before putting fluids back in?
can you tell us what is the average mileage for a water pump, before changing it or do you have to just wait till it starts leaking Thanks Eric, Great video
Thanks for sharing. Appreciate your straight forward approach and the clean job.
I read them.
I've read that it depends on the outside block dimensions, not on its displacement per se. So if good engineering will, a small block can have 7 liters and a big block can have 6.3 liters of displacement. And on older engines people say a small block has its distributor cap at the back top of between the cyl heads and the big block has it sitting at the front top of between it. Which i don't know. But Block classification refers to its outside dimensions. Greetings from Germany.
Kool I have most of those tools..think I'm gonna try it this weekend. Glad you made this vid
Eric, I have a 95 5.7L is it the same fix as this 98? Love the videos thank you for doing this!
i find your clips pretty educating and more than helpful,, but i kind of hopeing if you calp me with the wqay of changing the peston rings, from A to Z,, i have a mercedes w123 1978, wich i love the most but it needs the rings to be changed,, i need know how to manage that and what tools i need,, i came to your door coz you do make alot of effoert in your clips and explain every thing even piggners can understand what you are talking about,, and thank you for all your work.. regards..
I had the same problem with the gaskets when I did the water pump on my 92 k1500. I used a tiny bit of rtv to hold them in place because the gasket adhesive wouldn't hold.
I've had so many of those bolts break on removal due to corrosion. And yes it is a very bad day. What happens is the water leaks past the threads and corrodes the bolts to the water pump. Ford is even worse because they also go through the timing cover. So you either waste time drilling the bolts or save time and just break the timing cover. Best way to do it is cut off the water pump and timing cover from around the bolts. After that grab the bolts close to the block and they usually come out fairly easy.
if you leave the belt on while you remove the WP pulley bolts it is a lot easier. and i have learned from experience to get the WP in and the hoses connected and fill it with coolant before you go to the trouble of putting the pulleys and belt back on.if you dont see any leaks you go ahead and put the pulley, belt on and fan clutch. then the shroud and whatever wires clipped back.
the shroud ba
I've done 3 external GM water pumps and I have what I consider the best method for installing the new pump.
Love the video, but saw the gasket fumbling so here's a tip
the recipe:
take 1 of the pump bolts up to the hardware store
get 4 that match the thread and are twice as long
cut the heads off of the those new bolts
HAND thread them into the bolt holes
slide the gaskets on - i don't use sealant crap
now slide the new pump on
one at a time replace the headless bolts with the factory pump bolts
Never had a leak with this method, no need try and hold up the pump and align gaskets while installing
I have pics, but not sure I can post them here.
Bob in Little Canada
gpawbb I always wandered why we don't just use studs rather than bolts that stretch and can strip seems odd I may arp stud those thanks for the knowledge I know this is a old comment but still helpful
Eric, you have awesome video editing skills!
Thanks, saved some money, now the kids can eat tonight.
Just did mine right now, I used an adjustable wrench that barely fit over the fan clutch nut, a couple taps and it came loose no problem. I was glad i didn't have to resort to bang on it lol
Well done! It gives me courage to do this change myself... :cool:
Eric, if you use countertop adhesive (spray type) as directed those gaskets will not come off.
What is the best way to clean your engine compartment? Or should you not clean the engine compartment ?
There are 2 basic GM V8 engine block designs: the Small Block and the Big Block. The Small Block V8 has 5.0, 5.3, 5.7, and 6.2l displacements from the factory, whereas the Big Block V8 has displacements from 6.5l up. Both are quite large, but the Big Block is much larger than the Small Block.
Great videos Eric, I was looking for some basic mechanics classes, but it's kinda hard to find, your videos are just fine for learning how to do things on a car, thank you for the effort you put, you are really helping me! =)
Hello Eric! First off i love your videos
i was hoping you could help me out with anything on a 1998 nissan sentra gxe. I know its specific but anything that would resemble on DIY stuff for that car. If anything can you tell me any cars that similar to it that you made videos of. Maybe changing the spark plugs, where or if it even has a cabin air filter, brakes, etc. Just asking for anything on that car or a similar car with the same setup.
Looks like somewhere between 1996 and 1998 they changed the fan from metal to plastic and the tensioner to hydraulic. Only difference I noticed really. What was the CEL on for?
Very good photography!
Eric, the worst part of the water pump job is those damn gaskets. The adhesive is a good idea but I went and got myself some threaded rod same size as bolts and I screw them in the bottom two holes to use for support and also allow you to start your top bolts and adjust the gaskets if necessary
works on every small block powered chevy from 1955-1998, wow
eric, don't be upset, LS engines are very similar to the small block.
EricTheCarGuy i just watched your video while doing this repair but forgot to bleed the system. Driven it around for a couple days probably almost fifty miles or so and was wondering if sometimes it just doesnt need it or if it can naturally bleed itself?
How come you didn't show us how you replaced the thermostat and what it's main purpose is? Where to find the thermostat, removal and install. Thanks, Marc
Thank you very much i just do it by myself it's pretty good :)
but not yet fill up the water i hope it will not leak because i had a mess with the RTV ..
Thanks so much. Part 1 and 2 perfect for a DIY like me.
Had it done in no time and trouble free. Thanks again!
replaced a thermostat last year, used harbor freight tools torque wrench. Set it for 19 lsbs broke a bolt and it didnt start leaking until this winter, now thats fixed and now water pump needs replacement. DON'T TORQUE ANY BOLTS MORE THAN 30 FOOT LBS like Erik says, it will be a bad day.
amazing mechanic, good as edd china from ( wheeler dealer ) ! greeting from all the way from uk. keep it up
Why was that coolant so "thick", it looked undiluted or high 60% concentration, did you add water afterwards or is it because of the below freezing winter?
Eric, i feel the ding is a little too long, especially when it cuts over to the next clip, may i suggest cutting the audio clip to make it shorter, then adding in a fade out? this will give it the same effect, but wont drag it out as long
I don't even have a Tahoe or a vehicle with this engine. But I couldn't help but watch the whole video lol
I hear ya. I'm doing an old Mercedes diesel, but in one sense, a water pump is a water pump is a water pump. And Eric explains it well. I get a whole lot out of his videos and this series is actually some of his best.
The term big block refers to the deck height of the block not the displacement. For example Chevrolet back in the late 60's early 70s had a 396 cubic inch big block and a 400 cubic inch small block. Chrysler had the 426 cubic inch Hemi, which was called the Elephant engine for very good reason. And now a days Chevy has the LS7 which is 427 cubic inches which is still a small block engine. More than a little confusing I know, especially if you're from Europe...
Always great vids!!!!! Thank you Eric!!!
Its hard to believe you did not replace the bypass hose to the intake or the 90 degree heater hose, those look old and are known to split from heat. A little anti-seize on the clutch threads does wonders to prevent rust. I almost fell over when Eric got out a pipe wrench in part-1
I have a 1998 silverado 5.7 that needs the power steering pump relaxed, do you have a video or link on getting the pump off..I have all the front bolts off and one in the back, but it's still stuck, don't know if it's another bolt or nut that I'm missing.
why not use pipe/thread sealant on those bolts, thats what GM recommends, either way i guess. did you make sure those bolts on the rear cover of the new water pump were tight, have seen those leak, and it actually says in the instructions in the box to do that, not that we ever look at that stuff, lol.
I have a 1998 chevy v6 p/u with about the same mileage. You will know when you need new motor mounts when the belt wears a gash in the lower rad hose.