@@byeboy00 You create that path by cutting the channel all the way around first. It literally guides the sawblade. Give it a try before you laugh too hard. :)
Same thing goes for almost anything. Reason you will cut yourself on a dull kitchen knife more than a sharp one, sharp goes where you want it, dull one where it's least resistance...same goes with people.😊
unsolicited tips from someone who learned the hard way (practice, not tips or tricks or with guides, jigs, etc): One thing that really helped me learn how to use handsaws properly was to do a 10-ish minute warm-up every time I would begin work in my shop. I would hand cut a single dovetail joint into a couple of cutoff scraps; First with scoring/dragging a kerf all the way around, then with pencil marks, then just small ticks, eventually eyballed. When they started to fit (almost) perfectly on the first try with only light marks, without sawing close (leaving the line) and finishing with a chisel, I knew I was ready to START to learn how to handsaw half-decent dovetail joints... Gotta learn to use all kinds of different saws, too. (try using a trad western saw for one part of a dovetail, and a pull saw for the mating piece!) Trad cabinetry saws at @20 tpi seem to get the best results, even though they're slightly slower than Japanese saws with their thin kerf and minimal set. (also, practicing on different hardwoods at different angles helps too- even trying to just go fast through new Doug Fir 2x4s paid off.) I still do it once in awhile to stay sharp (pun intended... if your saw walks, check the set angle and consistency, sharpening angle, rake, etc, and remember, your body position matters a lot (our joints are most accurate when moving at right (or just consistent) angles. Cheers! (I have my great-great-great-grandfather's tool chest- his journeyman's piece- and the dovetails in its box, trays and drawers are so dead-nuts tight and square and consistent that it still blows my mind. we're losing such skills and need to perpetuate them...
Small suggestion. Explain why the small cut around helps keeps the blade aligned. Additionally also explain why a saw wonders from a line. Possibly all a bit much for a short. Thanks for sharing. as always it’s great stuff.
Saw teeth are lazy like us. They tend to follow the easier way to get into the wood. A small cut guide the teeth cause it offer less resistance that the non cut wood on each side. Now if your saw tend to follow its own path check your hand and arm position, check the geometry of it's teeth. Finaly always check wood grain before a cut especialy along the grain, softer veins are easier to cut that harder veins and your lazy saw teeth don't wanna work hard. properly spoken english might be more understandable but I do what I can. ;-)
@@vincentroux1510 perfectly understandable as you have it there. Thanks for sharing. I was thinking of it as material for Rex to create. Cutting straight is an aspiration many of us have but think it’s out of reach. And possibly we think it takes more practice than we think feasible. However, even us amateurs and DIYers, knowing what is happening and being slightly conscious of it during each saw stroke, will dramatically improve things.
Pull saws are amazing but they do take a little getting used to, especially if you have been raised withb the standard western stiff backed saw. 2 tips I picked up: don't hold the saw with too firm of a grip, as that often throws off your line, and don't try to rush the cut, just allow the saw to go the speed it wants to. Obvious really, but its surprising how many people struggle with those basic concepts.
On reflection, many of the times I've had this happen to me were times I was trying to muscle my way through a time consuming cut with muscle. Great information! Thanks
Indeed. I love my Ryoba and hardly ever use any Western saw nowadays, but always let the tool do the work, don't force the pace or apply too much effort. There are pull saws available that have stiffer blades and a bit of a spine. I have no trouble getting straight cuts.
I’ve always heard “No matter the blade, let the *SAW* do the work.” But it is surprising how often people wanna manhandle the saw and just tear through stock like a band saw
That perfectly describes my own situation too. I’d decided (rightly or wrongly) that while initially feeling deceptively easy, they might actually be harder to get consistent results with than Western saws, while the Western ones might be a case of “harder to learn, easier to master”.
Get a few hundred cuts in on it, and you'll be golden. Did this with my dozuki, I chucked a piece of oak in the vise and made like 200 cuts in one sitting, getting them as squared as possible, as close as possible. Helps out a looot
@apmeehan neither is better than the other, but I do prefer my ryoba for most cross cuts/rough carpentry, but I've got a custom handle tenon saw that I use for most of my small rip cuts. Really just depends, but the little 6" dozuki is invaluable. Tldr, I love both equally, and for bushcraft especially though, Japanese saws are the way to go. They're smaller, lighter, sharper, etc.
I have a damaged wist and find it near impossible to cut straight with a conventional push saw. Its different with a pull saw. I start on the junction of the narrow and wide side of the board and cut a deep kerf into both of them. Then I cut straight across the narrow side keeping the blade in the deep part of the kerf. Once I reach the other side i cut down that corner and once a deep kerf is set on both sides I can cut straight down no problems.
I used a pull saw for the first year that I was woodworking. They do cut quickly, but I more or less gave up and switched to a back saw for this exact reason. Still a very good and cheap option to start out with!
I use a Japanese marking knife (one with one side dead flat) to do the first cut groove. Then do the starting saw cuts. I think the extra step works for me because I"m left handed (ha ha). Nice tip.
That technique isn't "trust but verify." It's more like basic market manipulation. You have to prime the market before you can liquidate it. Score the cut before you rip it.
Just got a flexible pull saw and I haven’t veered off the line yet. Ripped a 4 ft board perfectly on my first cut with it. I won’t touch a push saw again
I’m not a woodworker. But I worked that out through common sense before you even said it. I used to be a stonemasons apprentice and we do similar things to help with fractures and breaks. If you don’t know what’s going to happen on the other side, turn it over and secure a path (with wood that would be scoring a cut line all the way around similar to with a stone you use a scribe to make your line then give it some taps with a boaster around that line, back and forth all the way around, you make a tiny little fracture through tye stone and you don’t want it to follow natural faults, so you make your own on the other side, going back and forth until your confident it will do what you want it too, give a few hard hits and it should pop off with a nice clean line around the edge and a rough face that you can dress later. (With granite at least, worked with sandstone, granite and marble. Sandstone has its own grain which granite and marble do not, you can crack layers off of sandstone if you know how to read the tea leaves and follow it’s grain)
For me personally it's way easier to cut perfectly on the line with Japanese pull saws. Starting the cut you have to be a little more careful, but once you get going its very easy
Never had this problem using my Japanese style saws, but reading the comments, it seems the tip helped a lot of people. I wonder why... I never learned Western style saw techniques before going to the Japanese ones, which I did learn properly. Maybe that's the deal? Well, idk, just a theory
Also cutting all the way around doesnt really force a push saw into the outlined cut plane, but a pull saw is much better at being controlled that way so for me, much better results than push saw.
I have multiple shops, a garage, and a huge back yard but I just had to make his apartment balcony bench a few years back because Rex is just that awsome.
A similar approach, but a bit quicker, which I use for rip and resewing. Mark front, top and back, cut with handle down at 45 degrees, joining the lines. Then flip to back and cut down again, joining the lines, but going down to the bottom of the kerf on the back and flip round again until done.
It works, but still it takes lots of practice, and you can't still be very sure if your blade may wander off in the back. Cutting around all four sides does help.
I discovered once you’ve squared your cut it helps to keep the saw level and hold it lightly. Sawing from below/at an angle allows the flexible saw to change direction(useful to bring it back on course), but if I hold it level the saw plate keeps it straight on course.
All other carpentry content makers pretend this problem doesn't exist; they can't fess up to being mastered by their swanky hipster tools. Rex is the real deal. Always finds solutions and work-arounds. And he doesn't fast-forward to fudge results. A fan, me.
Orrrr... you could learn to saw straight. ...though I suppose it is tricky to switch from sawing on the push stroke to the pull. Kinda... unsolicited tip follows: One thing that really helped me learn how to use handsaws properly was to do a 10-ish minute warm-up every time I would work in my shop. I would hand cut a single dovetail joint into a couple cutoff scrap. First with scoring/dragging a kerf all the way around, than with pencil marks, then just small;ticks. Wen they started to fit perfectly on the first try with only light marks, without sawing nearly close (leaving the line) and finishing with a chisel, I knew I was ready to START to learn how to handsaw half-decent dovetail joints... gotta learn to use all kinds of different saws, too. Trad cabinetry saws at @25 tpi seem to get the best results, even though they're slightly slower than Japanese saws with a thin kerf and a minimal set. (also, practice on different hardwoods at different angles helps too- even trying to just go fast through new Doug Fir 2x4s paid off.) I still do it once in awhile to stay sharp (pun intended... if your saw walks, check the set angle and consistency, sharpening angle, rake, etc, and remember, your body position (our.joints are most accurate when moving at right (or just consistent) angles.
This method also helps with reducing the chance of the wood splintering on the pull side of the cut, or breaking off and tearing a part of the lumber with it. The only downside is that it takes so long
I've decided to just stick with western saws. The thinness and flexibility of my pull saws is just too much fuss to wrangle with. Good for flush cutting though.
I just cut into my line on the thinner part of the board, starting from the back edge. Start slow and then start dropping the saw towards me and continue down the wide face. Comes out straight and square. Most people get loads of drift due to gripping too tightly, incorrect body position and forcing the saw. Putting a little kerf all the way around has some advantages. As for tearout......don't get that with my Ryoba at all.
You're working around the fact that you're using the wrong tool for the job? I'm sure that saw is wonderful for something, but cross cutting 2x4s aren't it.
I'm looking to get back into woodworking with hand tools (no power tools). I need to put together a set of tools for the purpose. I was considering a set of Japanese saws instead of Western style saws, but I've never used Japanese saws before. Truth be told I've always been bad with freehand cuts, so I'm not sure if they are the best place to start.
Get whichever one is easier to get your hands on. Neither is better than the other, it is completely about preference. They operate differently and have different advantages and disadvantages but none of that matters if the decision paralysis stops you from cutting wood in the first place. Get a saw, any saw, then after a while find a saw you like
Can't understand the main message of that video - is it saw comparision? Or the advise how to make straight cut with specific type of saw? Western regular handsaw usualy make same results, that's why Tennon saw come as western saw, and Dozuki as Japanese saw for more straight cuts. And usually enough to turn two sides and check 2 lines - as you start correctly, and check both long cuts - last cutted side will be ok as well (counting geometry of board and quality of other cuts).
It is not a saw comparison because he only featured one type of saw and didn’t even mention any other type of saw. There’s nothing to be confused about here.
I see, so it's a common problem. I thought it was because I bought a pull saw from Harbor Freight, and they shipped it to me literally bent into a bow to fit into a box with a bunch of other, heavier tools.
Or you could just use a traditional hard back saw. There’s a reason they have set teeth. Apart from creating less friction and clearing sawdust the wider set also allows you to make fine adjustments during the cut. I honestly can’t understand the current fetish for Japanese pull saws. Would you throw away all your knives and forks to replace them with chopsticks ?
@@jaredlancaster4137 Yes, they have a very slight set, but depend more on fleam to clear the cut. It's very hard to correct mid cut if they start to stray. They're also nay impossible to sharpen with regular files.
@@MarksElectricLife Interesting. All of those attributes are shared by my cheap hardware store Stanley crosscut saws. I don't know what that says about cheap saws or about Japanese saws, but it's interesting.
I've watched Destiny for years. This was SO out-of-pocket for him. He's constantly opposed political violence, long lamented the harming of innocent people, and always asserted that no one should ever be harmed for their beliefs.
Love your content, but this is unnecessary. Its about technique and willingness to learn it. Same way as if a beginner strugles with tuning a handplane to take a fine shaving, you can easily get assembly ready joinery straight off with a ryoba, but you need to put the reps in. Cut with both hands, cut the first triangle you can se, and then finnish the rest by just plunging the saw, no need for cutting kerfs around to board or flipping it whatsoever.
Trust but verify, one of my favorite phrases. Good stuff Rex. I too struggle keeping a line with my pull saw, this will help.
Very heavily used in my line of work.
Mr ronald reagen.
Made my day
The blade follows the path of least resistance. Someone taught me this a long time ago and it is a super helpful tip for cutting pretty much anything.
And how are you supposed to know the path of least resistance in a piece of wood 😅
@@byeboy00 You create that path by cutting the channel all the way around first. It literally guides the sawblade. Give it a try before you laugh too hard. :)
@@danielmiller2886 I'm glad I didn't have to say something about that, I would have been mean😂😂
Same thing goes for almost anything. Reason you will cut yourself on a dull kitchen knife more than a sharp one, sharp goes where you want it, dull one where it's least resistance...same goes with people.😊
@@ouroboros_on_the_orangethanks! Great wisdom here!
I thought I just sucked at sawing straight. It's encouraging to hear I'm not alone with this problem.
unsolicited tips from someone who learned the hard way (practice, not tips or tricks or with guides, jigs, etc):
One thing that really helped me learn how to use handsaws properly was to do a 10-ish minute warm-up every time I would begin work in my shop. I would hand cut a single dovetail joint into a couple of cutoff scraps; First with scoring/dragging a kerf all the way around, then with pencil marks, then just small ticks, eventually eyballed. When they started to fit (almost) perfectly on the first try with only light marks, without sawing close (leaving the line) and finishing with a chisel, I knew I was ready to START to learn how to handsaw half-decent dovetail joints...
Gotta learn to use all kinds of different saws, too. (try using a trad western saw for one part of a dovetail, and a pull saw for the mating piece!)
Trad cabinetry saws at @20 tpi seem to get the best results, even though they're slightly slower than Japanese saws with their thin kerf and minimal set. (also, practicing on different hardwoods at different angles helps too- even trying to just go fast through new Doug Fir 2x4s paid off.)
I still do it once in awhile to stay sharp (pun intended... if your saw walks, check the set angle and consistency, sharpening angle, rake, etc, and remember, your body position matters a lot (our joints are most accurate when moving at right (or just consistent) angles.
Cheers!
(I have my great-great-great-grandfather's tool chest- his journeyman's piece- and the dovetails in its box, trays and drawers are so dead-nuts tight and square and consistent that it still blows my mind. we're losing such skills and need to perpetuate them...
Small suggestion. Explain why the small cut around helps keeps the blade aligned. Additionally also explain why a saw wonders from a line. Possibly all a bit much for a short.
Thanks for sharing. as always it’s great stuff.
Saw teeth are lazy like us. They tend to follow the easier way to get into the wood. A small cut guide the teeth cause it offer less resistance that the non cut wood on each side.
Now if your saw tend to follow its own path check your hand and arm position, check the geometry of it's teeth. Finaly always check wood grain before a cut especialy along the grain, softer veins are easier to cut that harder veins and your lazy saw teeth don't wanna work hard.
properly spoken english might be more understandable but I do what I can. ;-)
@@vincentroux1510 perfectly understandable as you have it there. Thanks for sharing.
I was thinking of it as material for Rex to create. Cutting straight is an aspiration many of us have but think it’s out of reach. And possibly we think it takes more practice than we think feasible. However, even us amateurs and DIYers, knowing what is happening and being slightly conscious of it during each saw stroke, will dramatically improve things.
The other benefit of 'circumcising' your board even if you use a crosscut 'push saw' is that it greatly reduces tear-out.
Pull saws are amazing but they do take a little getting used to, especially if you have been raised withb the standard western stiff backed saw.
2 tips I picked up: don't hold the saw with too firm of a grip, as that often throws off your line, and don't try to rush the cut, just allow the saw to go the speed it wants to.
Obvious really, but its surprising how many people struggle with those basic concepts.
On reflection, many of the times I've had this happen to me were times I was trying to muscle my way through a time consuming cut with muscle. Great information! Thanks
Indeed. I love my Ryoba and hardly ever use any Western saw nowadays, but always let the tool do the work, don't force the pace or apply too much effort. There are pull saws available that have stiffer blades and a bit of a spine. I have no trouble getting straight cuts.
I’ve always heard “No matter the blade, let the *SAW* do the work.” But it is surprising how often people wanna manhandle the saw and just tear through stock like a band saw
@@megaman992 if I could exorcism the deep, chemical longing for instant gratification from my dopamine addled psyche I would.
Cutting with the *entire* length is also necessary; making small strokes is even more inefficient with pull saws
I think the real secret of a pull saw is not to think too hard about it.
That's a really good tip. I'd written mine off as a flush cutter, but I'll give this a try because it looks promising. Thanks.
That perfectly describes my own situation too. I’d decided (rightly or wrongly) that while initially feeling deceptively easy, they might actually be harder to get consistent results with than Western saws, while the Western ones might be a case of “harder to learn, easier to master”.
Get a few hundred cuts in on it, and you'll be golden. Did this with my dozuki, I chucked a piece of oak in the vise and made like 200 cuts in one sitting, getting them as squared as possible, as close as possible. Helps out a looot
@@connorhart7597 Ah cool, cheers for the tip! So would you say you prefer pull saws over push saws overall now?
@apmeehan neither is better than the other, but I do prefer my ryoba for most cross cuts/rough carpentry, but I've got a custom handle tenon saw that I use for most of my small rip cuts. Really just depends, but the little 6" dozuki is invaluable. Tldr, I love both equally, and for bushcraft especially though, Japanese saws are the way to go. They're smaller, lighter, sharper, etc.
There are Japanese dozuki saw with a spine. I like those better for cross cuts.
I have a damaged wist and find it near impossible to cut straight with a conventional push saw. Its different with a pull saw. I start on the junction of the narrow and wide side of the board and cut a deep kerf into both of them. Then I cut straight across the narrow side keeping the blade in the deep part of the kerf. Once I reach the other side i cut down that corner and once a deep kerf is set on both sides I can cut straight down no problems.
I used a pull saw for the first year that I was woodworking. They do cut quickly, but I more or less gave up and switched to a back saw for this exact reason. Still a very good and cheap option to start out with!
Also this technique reduces tearout too!!
I use a Japanese marking knife (one with one side dead flat) to do the first cut groove. Then do the starting saw cuts. I think the extra step works for me because I"m left handed (ha ha). Nice tip.
That technique isn't "trust but verify." It's more like basic market manipulation. You have to prime the market before you can liquidate it. Score the cut before you rip it.
or cut out all the stupid analogies and just say that a saw follows a line already cut far easier than trying to hold a pencil line.
Just got a flexible pull saw and I haven’t veered off the line yet. Ripped a 4 ft board perfectly on my first cut with it. I won’t touch a push saw again
thank god someone else exists who also like to take an easy cut and do it the hardest way possible.
Thank you for changing my hand saw life in a few seconds 😆👍
I don't care how sophisticated the tool or technique, I can screw it up...
I’m not a woodworker.
But I worked that out through common sense before you even said it. I used to be a stonemasons apprentice and we do similar things to help with fractures and breaks. If you don’t know what’s going to happen on the other side, turn it over and secure a path (with wood that would be scoring a cut line all the way around similar to with a stone you use a scribe to make your line then give it some taps with a boaster around that line, back and forth all the way around, you make a tiny little fracture through tye stone and you don’t want it to follow natural faults, so you make your own on the other side, going back and forth until your confident it will do what you want it too, give a few hard hits and it should pop off with a nice clean line around the edge and a rough face that you can dress later. (With granite at least, worked with sandstone, granite and marble. Sandstone has its own grain which granite and marble do not, you can crack layers off of sandstone if you know how to read the tea leaves and follow it’s grain)
Thanks to you I bought my first pull saw , now I have a full family of them. I use pull saws, western saws and bow saw. Thank you for all your videos.
Love your energy and positivity. I’ve been watching you for way too long. Keep with what you love, brother!
Great video. Roy should be very proud of you. You are spot on. I carry a small Irwin pull saw on every job. Thanks
For me personally it's way easier to cut perfectly on the line with Japanese pull saws. Starting the cut you have to be a little more careful, but once you get going its very easy
Never had this problem using my Japanese style saws, but reading the comments, it seems the tip helped a lot of people. I wonder why... I never learned Western style saw techniques before going to the Japanese ones, which I did learn properly. Maybe that's the deal? Well, idk, just a theory
There are Japanese dozuki saw with a spine. I like those better for cross cuts.
You could also add guiding pieces to the piece (if possible) and use those to guide the sawblade. Or use the clamp as a guide.
Mine cuts straighter than a push saw, ive always had a terrible drift so dragging all the way around has always been my only chance of a straight cut.
Also cutting all the way around doesnt really force a push saw into the outlined cut plane, but a pull saw is much better at being controlled that way so for me, much better results than push saw.
Thank you so much, this has been giving me problems and I am getting sick and tired of pairing up the boards with chisel work after every cut.
I worked out a while ago this was he only way I could handsaw accurately - push or pull. GREAT TIP.
Great tips, as always. Thanks, Rex!
I have multiple shops, a garage, and a huge back yard but I just had to make his apartment balcony bench a few years back because Rex is just that awsome.
A similar approach, but a bit quicker, which I use for rip and resewing. Mark front, top and back, cut with handle down at 45 degrees, joining the lines. Then flip to back and cut down again, joining the lines, but going down to the bottom of the kerf on the back and flip round again until done.
I bet that would helo a first timer with a regular hand sae as well. Nice extra step.
When I was 12, I had the same idea. Works.
I saw a video where they lined up the board with its reflection on the saw. Can you do a short trying that out? I don’t remember who it was exactly 😅
It works, but still it takes lots of practice, and you can't still be very sure if your blade may wander off in the back. Cutting around all four sides does help.
this mostly helps with cutting the kerf :P
I discovered once you’ve squared your cut it helps to keep the saw level and hold it lightly. Sawing from below/at an angle allows the flexible saw to change direction(useful to bring it back on course), but if I hold it level the saw plate keeps it straight on course.
yeah it is really useful to be able to use at a diagonal and slightly flex to return to course, on like a rip
Thank you for this tip I'm brand new into wood working. My first project will be the Roman low bench that you have made on your channel
Great tip, its like providing a track for the saw.
All other carpentry content makers pretend this problem doesn't exist; they can't fess up to being mastered by their swanky hipster tools. Rex is the real deal. Always finds solutions and work-arounds. And he doesn't fast-forward to fudge results. A fan, me.
Rex i have had this happen so many times!! This will come in super handy. Thanks dude. Keep up the good work my man
I've noticed that double sided pull saws, if it's a deep cut, will tend to blow out on the other side. One sided is the way to go. 🧐
Great idea Dude! Thanks!
Orrrr... you could learn to saw straight.
...though I suppose it is tricky to switch from sawing on the push stroke to the pull. Kinda... unsolicited tip follows:
One thing that really helped me learn how to use handsaws properly was to do a 10-ish minute warm-up every time I would work in my shop. I would hand cut a single dovetail joint into a couple cutoff scrap. First with scoring/dragging a kerf all the way around, than with pencil marks, then just small;ticks. Wen they started to fit perfectly on the first try with only light marks, without sawing nearly close (leaving the line) and finishing with a chisel, I knew I was ready to START to learn how to handsaw half-decent dovetail joints... gotta learn to use all kinds of different saws, too. Trad cabinetry saws at @25 tpi seem to get the best results, even though they're slightly slower than Japanese saws with a thin kerf and a minimal set. (also, practice on different hardwoods at different angles helps too- even trying to just go fast through new Doug Fir 2x4s paid off.)
I still do it once in awhile to stay sharp (pun intended... if your saw walks, check the set angle and consistency, sharpening angle, rake, etc, and remember, your body position (our.joints are most accurate when moving at right (or just consistent) angles.
This method also helps with reducing the chance of the wood splintering on the pull side of the cut, or breaking off and tearing a part of the lumber with it. The only downside is that it takes so long
Nah, never trust politicians.
I do that already and it always ensures where rhe saw is gonna go
Excellent tip, thanks!
I've decided to just stick with western saws. The thinness and flexibility of my pull saws is just too much fuss to wrangle with. Good for flush cutting though.
Great tip!
omg, this just saved me so much effort and pain I think. I'll try this soon. I've hit this so many freaking times.
Those japanese saws are great. They just take some getting used to. I hardly ever reach for my old western style saws anymore
I just cut into my line on the thinner part of the board, starting from the back edge. Start slow and then start dropping the saw towards me and continue down the wide face. Comes out straight and square. Most people get loads of drift due to gripping too tightly, incorrect body position and forcing the saw. Putting a little kerf all the way around has some advantages. As for tearout......don't get that with my Ryoba at all.
I prefer to be skeptical always and then verify.
This is also the Japanese way of cross cutting, as far as I know
Drink a cup of green tea before each cut
Great tip. It didn't show up as a short video for me for some reason. But it is in the shorts tab.
polish the saw and align the wood in the mirror image of the blade it will cut straight that way
You're working around the fact that you're using the wrong tool for the job? I'm sure that saw is wonderful for something, but cross cutting 2x4s aren't it.
Thank you so much ! I'm a Luthier and love theses saws but have run into this problem . No more thank you
Verification is the highest form of trust.
Seems like a lot of extra hassle.
Or just use a circular saw and use your flexible pull saw for flush cuts
Strange, I’ve not had that problem with my pull saws
Rex, Rex one day, one day you will discover there is a thing called a mitre saw! 😂
Personally I’d just use a mitre saw but to each their own
Just mark round with a knife or pencil, and use your eyes to see where you're cutting, your method won't make it any easier.
The right tool for the job. That's the wrong tool.
I HAVE BEEN DOING THAT VERY SAME THING FOR QUITE A FEW YEARS
I'm looking to get back into woodworking with hand tools (no power tools). I need to put together a set of tools for the purpose. I was considering a set of Japanese saws instead of Western style saws, but I've never used Japanese saws before. Truth be told I've always been bad with freehand cuts, so I'm not sure if they are the best place to start.
Get whichever one is easier to get your hands on. Neither is better than the other, it is completely about preference. They operate differently and have different advantages and disadvantages but none of that matters if the decision paralysis stops you from cutting wood in the first place. Get a saw, any saw, then after a while find a saw you like
Miter saw entered the chat.
Thank you Sir.🎉
Skil saw
Originally a Russian proverb, but made famous by Reagan during disarmament talks, referring to US-Soviet relations.
If they are so much effort, then i more like to rely on another sawtype
I'll have to give this a shot. This was a big issue for me
well ... with polytics we verify because we do not trust - even then I don't trust them
Can't understand the main message of that video - is it saw comparision? Or the advise how to make straight cut with specific type of saw? Western regular handsaw usualy make same results, that's why Tennon saw come as western saw, and Dozuki as Japanese saw for more straight cuts. And usually enough to turn two sides and check 2 lines - as you start correctly, and check both long cuts - last cutted side will be ok as well (counting geometry of board and quality of other cuts).
It is not a saw comparison because he only featured one type of saw and didn’t even mention any other type of saw. There’s nothing to be confused about here.
Scud missle head..
Love your videos and tips, God Bless!
This is a genuine question why not just use a miter saw
"Pull saws are like politics."
Damn straight.
Only I don't trust so there you go, analogy ruined.
@@andymerrett
“Don’t trust what you can’t see.”
@andymerrett not ruined in any significant way. Just because you don't understand something doesn't make it stupid.
Can you screw a straight piece of wood to the back of your waste bit to guide you cut?
They also work better using them two handed directly in front of you, so your arms naturally tend to keep the saw online
Pull saws are like politics!😅
Best phrase I've heard today.
I see, so it's a common problem. I thought it was because I bought a pull saw from Harbor Freight, and they shipped it to me literally bent into a bow to fit into a box with a bunch of other, heavier tools.
Or you could just use a traditional hard back saw. There’s a reason they have set teeth. Apart from creating less friction and clearing sawdust the wider set also allows you to make fine adjustments during the cut. I honestly can’t understand the current fetish for Japanese pull saws. Would you throw away all your knives and forks to replace them with chopsticks ?
I was pretty sure that Japanese style saws had set teeth too. Is that not the case? Saws with 0 set usually experience really bad binding.
@@jaredlancaster4137 Yes, they have a very slight set, but depend more on fleam to clear the cut. It's very hard to correct mid cut if they start to stray. They're also nay impossible to sharpen with regular files.
@@MarksElectricLife Interesting. All of those attributes are shared by my cheap hardware store Stanley crosscut saws. I don't know what that says about cheap saws or about Japanese saws, but it's interesting.
You have the same problem with a jigsaw, especially if you saw too fast and make sharp turns
Ain't nobody got time for that
Could just use a tenon saw!
Mitre saw my man
Why would I use a saw that takes extra steps to get a straight cut 😂😂
You use too much pressure, its no german saw. 😂
Always cut to the lines. Japanese carpenters will teach you that.
What do you mean by “cut to the lines”?
I bent the hell out of my pull saw a few weeks ago by accident.
How about rip cutting?
As ridiculous as this video is, explaining something so basic, you'd be surprised how useful this information is to people who can barely think
just use a miter box
He's the doctor evil of carpentry 😂 I said what I said
The best part is i technically AM a doctor.
Or buy a chop saw
Es la última chamba de ese vaso
Why not use a regular saw
I've watched Destiny for years. This was SO out-of-pocket for him. He's constantly opposed political violence, long lamented the harming of innocent people, and always asserted that no one should ever be harmed for their beliefs.
Love your content, but this is unnecessary. Its about technique and willingness to learn it. Same way as if a beginner strugles with tuning a handplane to take a fine shaving, you can easily get assembly ready joinery straight off with a ryoba, but you need to put the reps in. Cut with both hands, cut the first triangle you can se, and then finnish the rest by just plunging the saw, no need for cutting kerfs around to board or flipping it whatsoever.
Same as what I do, cut triangles, only cut what you can see and switch to the other side if you need to.
Exactly, and the more you practice the less and less you'll need to switch to other side. @@WalterMelons
Or just grab a skilsaw and zip right through it.