I have installed thousands of these systems in the 90's and injectors, chemical dispensers, iron filters, water softeners, UV filters and a ton of other systems!
4:42: one thing you don't comment about the rubber tape... stretch it a bit, and it self-sticks and helps seal better to keep out moisture. I used it for sealing connectors up a tower, but as rubber tape is UV sensitive... needed to cover it with electrical.
Great video, most good techs are not afraid of giving out expert instructions because they sell their craftsmanship and most importantly the customer trusts them. Any tech who can explain what they’re doing they’ll usually get my business and I will not look for someone else.
Thank you for the time you put into these videos. It is amazing to me how many people use pump pliers backwards... This guy uses them properly everytime. 😀
Great video. Would love to see some more closeups of your plumbing connections and wiring once finished. But I'm loving the channel. Lots of good stuff here. Thanks.
I believe this will end up more of a question than a comment. I have somewhat of a unique situation compared to most of your well/shallow well videos I have watched. And thank you very much for putting out such practical DIY (some/most) videos, I know some situations require professional help. My situation is this, I live on a small river lake in South Central Texas. I have an above ground 3/4hp pump running our 9 zone yard irrigation system that was professionally designed and install by me and a couple friends over 30 yrs ago and has run flawlessly for 30+ yrs. But for that last 6 months or so my above ground pump started leaking at a gasket in the pump. I was given a used operating (Goulds 10EJ15412) 1&1/2hp submersible pump that was replaced in a deep well where my son-in-las worked that I now want to replace the above ground pump with. It will sit about 4-5' below the lake water surface level to prevent sucking any air when boat waves come by and pump up through pump shed and pressure tank then uphill about 25' rise at a 45 degree angle 200' up the length of our yard feeding the 9 zones and 4 sporadic faucets. It is not an option to change any of the 1 1/2" piping, some of it goes through concrete seawall. Since the 1 1/2hp submersible pump has what looks like a 1" or 1 1/4" threaded output, - will I loose much pressure and/or volume plumbing this pump to an irrigation system that has all main lines are 1 1/2"? Right now the above ground pump will easily run 1 zone and 4 hoses with sprinklers watering the edges and areas the irrigation system do not get. At the zones the pvc drops to 1" and then to 3/4" and finally 1/2" usually at the last sprinkler head. Basically leaving the pump at it's 1" or 1 1/4" output then immediately transitioning back up to 1&1/2" prior to the pressure tank and cutoff switch (which will be located in the pump shed). - there is an external foot valve on the pump I was given, do I need an external foot valve for this type application where I will be able to easily pull/service the pump at any time? I saw on one of your videos you recommend this but I believe you said only on a deep well installation. - I am hoping my application will allow the pump to run constantly while the irrigation and/or faucets are running and not cycle the pump on and off, any ideas? Are those cutoff switches adjustable to keep the pump running when needed? Thanks for taking the time to put out your videos, I have found them packed full of knowledge and very useful. Paul in Texas
A topic I never hear you mention is the size of the storage tank. In instances where there is space and the well produces enough water, I understand it is better to use a larger tank versus the small blue and white tanks. From what I read, the benefit is less startup on the pump. That means less stress on the pump (longer life), and less instances of needing startup current.
Always a good videos from Phil, with his videos, I was able to replace all components of my deep well and now have a running well! He even replied To my question when my new install did not work, diagnosed it was a broken wire, replaced the wire and it started working. Keep the videos coming Phil.
@@h2omechanic wait so since my well is only 50' i can use a smaller pump like this then? 37' to water 47' to the bottom. im just gonna use for irrigation in garden nothing crazy
Love the channel. You are spot on with your information and explanations. I have learned a lot, and it's helped me troubleshoot wells. I am an electrician with 28 years of experience. When you twist the stranded wire to wrap the ground screw. If you twist it counterclockwise and wrap clockwise, it will tighten better. Thought maybe it might help.
Always interesting to watch your video`s Our wellman in this area of Pa puts tank in ground its fiberglass with bladder inside and puts the switch with gauge inside the well above the pitiless adapter. So no freezing here in the North
I always use a pipe coupler and then an elbow or a tee with on side plugged on top so the pipe will hang straight down. I noticed that one is cocked some. On a well like a 100 ft or less I use a 120 volt pump. It is much easier to hook to a generator and some generators don't even have 240 volts. But you will need around a 3000 wat generator to handle the current surge when the pump starts unless it's one of the high priced soft start pumps.
My dad taught me everything I know. But UA-cam is what made me realize how good I was at teaching. I teach In the same way I am able to learn (having Adhd) seems like most can connect better with my methods of teaching. Plus I enjoy it. I treat the camera as if I was training an employee
Hi sir, I have some questions regarding drilling, grouting, developing and completing a well: 1. When do you grout the well casing annulus? Is it done after you found a producing zone? 2. If grouting after you reach a producing zone, will the grout not affect or cover the producing zone? 3. Do you always do open hole completion or with slotted liners? 4. Is it not proper to drill up to solid formation and set casing then grout the annulus before proceeding during to find production zone? I like all the youtube videos you posted and admire your knowledge, talent and drive in this kind of business. Hope to get answers from my questions. Thank you for the knowledge you imparted to us.
I wish you coulda tried it, it woulda be really REALLY NICE TO FIRE IT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME. ALSO YOU MUST BE IN A HOT WARM TEMPURATURE STATE, UNLIKE HERE IN SD, NEBR, COLO, KANSAS, MONTANA, ALL OF OUR SUBMURSABLES AND 80 GALLON TANKS ARE IN A 6' OR 8' TRENCH UNDERGROUND COVERED UP, IT FREEZES HERE ALL THE TIME 🥶🥶🥶🥶😳🤯😵😱🥶🥶🥶 GREAT JOB!! 😉👍
I guess it really depends on the area, but I would think even for a temporary setup I would run conduit from the well into the pressure switch and use SOOW for the power pigtail and plug with water tight glands on all connections. A way of doing it without the conduit would be using the appropriate gland on the three wire zip cord from the pump. I don't know if there are pressure limit switches that are also water tight or whether that's needed but just something I would personally feel comfortable using.
Can you make another video with how to open and close the season with this kind of setup? I live Canada where pipes freeze....so I can't have any water in pipes or pressure tank ...
Have you guys ever used marine epoxy lined heat shrink? I prefer that heat shrink, but you do such a damn thorough job with that tape I bet you never have an issue out of it. I prefer epoxy heat shrink just because it looks cleaner.
I've watched many of your videos, enjoyed them all. Why not put the wire spool at the other end and pull the wire back towards the pump? Then it will never be short.
I enjoy the videos it's guy stuff and I like it. They are never the same always new obstacles to over come. Keep them coming cause I enjoy everyone of them.
Thank you for sharing these videos. I enjoy watching you work, very professional. I am wondering why you don't use any UNIONS in your piping? I have used them in many applications. When having to make any repairs, like because of broken pipes or whatever it makes disassembly easier and I don't have to cut out a lot of good pipe. For instance, if I had to change the bladder tank as you have it installed, I could disconnect at the union.
Greetings from New Zealand .... Totally on the Other Side of the World ...... :-) :-) :-) I just love All of your vidclip .... But Every Time I am just so dissapointed .... You go thru' the Whole Thing, but we NEVER see the result and see the WATER gushing out.... :-) :-) :-) This is in MOST of your vidclips .... The whole point of you doing ALL that Work is to give the customer water and we would Also like a taste of it too ..... :-) :-) :-) .... Best to You, Yours and All others, Cheers from ChCh, NZ
I looked for but missed any others asking this, but I am curious about: A) Check Valve? I didn't see one installed. Necessary? Maybe built-in to the pump and not needed on shallow well? B) Did you set the pump directly on the bottom of the bore? The casing was 80ft deep and I thought I saw you drop the pump to 80ft. Will sediment be a problem over time causing turbidity?
I have worked with 230V motors in the past and know I can change the rotation direction of the motor by switching 2 of the wires. Is motor rotation a concern for well pumps?
Doubtful. Someone in n.c. named there company Mike Hens.. well drillin Very similar to our business name He travels 4 states. We stick to va/nc & only 70mile radius
I am not sure if you answered this in another video but I would love to see a simple wiring schematic/explanation for what wire goes where when you connect the three pump wires to the yellow submersible wire and then connections topside. Do different pumps (more or less horsepower) require different wire gauges? I assume you run underground feeder to the connections topside of the well? Thanks man, you are putting out great content.
A typical 2 wire pump is simple to wire. Connect the green ground wire first, & the other wire can go any which way. A 3 wire pump is the same, except you must hook up the Yellow starter wire to the yellow in the control box. A few other install videos go over wiring ect. They are the longer videos
@@h2omechanic I find that going over the "small details" even for a avid watcher is OK. for instance wire size is dependent on pump size and distance of run!!!! even why a 2 wire pump is used, even why do you call it a 2 wire when there are three. whats the difference? for instance i used a 4 wire due to me wanting the "capacitor" in my home as that in my belief is the most common failure point. why in this video do you not use "brass fittings"? the grey fittings "the elbow" are the cheapest weakest things in my local hardware store!!!! now if that is a different "schedule" fitting then please comment on that. thanks for you vids though I do enjoy them. I feel sorry for these guys spending what they do for so little water though. I have a flowing well and the pump puts out a stream 15 ft vertically. (red lion 12gpm, 1/2hp.)and I believe 62gpm,108 ft deep
I'm curious about the white silicone looking material used to seal the wire where it enters the well. It appears oddly supple, just screams of quality, is it some 3M product?
I like to learn from your videos, very good information! I have a question, I'm remodeling an old cabin for my neighbors and it has a well by the house so I checked it out and put a pump in. It's 120 ft to water and 24ft to the bottom of the water or whatever I hit. I put a half hp pump in at 140 ft and connected the wire to plug in directly to the generator, when I start the generator it pumped about 15 gallons of water then quit,I did it again a couple hours later,same thing, I let it sit overnight tried again this morning, same thing. Any suggestions?
How accurate is the well tag? Specifically you state that you want to keep the pump inside the casing, the tag says the casing is at 80 feet and you indicated you were going to put the pump 'at 80 feet'. If there is any inaccuracy in your measurement (on the long side) or their measurement (on the short side) then the pump will be outside the casing. Would it not be better to set the pump at 75 feet (something close to, but not AT, the end of the casing)? Also - I do not recall seeing you 'shock' this well before inserting the pump whereas I've seen that done in another video, was that not required for 'this' setup or was it done prior to the start of the video?
Do you have a Franklin Aid document on 2-wire motors and generator use and effects to the Franklin BIAC switch? Its not in the AIM manual. The Franklin AID is an old monthly doc, Franklin published in the past.
Recently found your channel and did subscribe. Great content! On one of your previous videos the subject was the PVC pump sleeve to protect the pump motor. When I replaced my shallow well submergible , about 6 months ago, I found on Franklin's site their advising using these PVC sleeves particularly on larger diameter wells to insure pump motor cooling. I have a 85 foot 24" curbed well and it had gone through 3 pumps in 15 years, due to motor failure. I am convinced that had I installed the PVC sleeve on pump number one, I would still be using pump number one. Was wondering why you did not include the PVC sleeve on this 10" shallow well?
Because this pump is set at 80ft. Water enters the well Below the motor, thus cold water will pass by the motor to cool it. A sleeve will help every pump. Bur there are situations that need them more than others
The casing is 80' and that's how far you lowered the pump to, but how deep is the actual well drilled? I'm guessing it's deeper than the casing itself. If you don't know exactly how deep your casing goes, how far off the bottom of your well do you place your submersible pump to, generally?
A couple questions. Don't shoot the messenger. #1. Should the well have been shocked by chlorine. #2. Should the well have been bonded.#6 wire.(grounding rod) Since the well is not steel, A PERSON doesn't want a lightening bolt to Fry the pump. #3 should a disconnect switch have been installed at pump, maybe screwed to a wood stake, near the well. #4. How would a person release the water, back down into the well, if there was a chance of freezing temperatures, to prevent the pvc from cracking. Now the patch cord was only 10 feet or so. The owner was also powering a camper and The patch cord could be changed to 75 feet long next to camper. We all know that temporary sometimes stretch a little bit. I'm just
Thank you for this video. Speaks right into my situation. My off grid well produces 10gpm. I have a 23gpm submersible pump. Is there a way for the two to work together without running the water dry? Thanks in advance!
You can also add a ball valve in the line before the tank and switch to throttle the output of the pump. A Dole valve would also do this but costs more and isn't adjustable.
How could a guy get a hold of you as I have a few questions about my water system in my home. I have a 400gal fresh water holding tank, that runs to a 1/2hp non submersible pump with a flotec tank. I have set everything up the way you have shown in previous videos on your channel but I'm still encountering an issue. If I could shoot you an email that would be sweet! Happy holidays to you and your family! Thank you for the wonderful / educational content you put out!
Thankyou for having this channel! Ive never had to hook up a well before, but I now am in the process and I’m learning. Trying to learn from reading online and watching your videos. I just got a well drilled to hook up to my mobile home. The well is 100ft, 15 gpm, 8ft static water level. Should I be concerned that the static level is so high?
Only necessary if its a Irrigation well for a sprinkler system. For residential use, it keeps the pump under full load at all times . You may get 70psi in the home, but the pump would be under 150-170psi of load (depending on the pump size) While it's better for the electric motor, the pump stack/impellers & bearings and seeing unnecessary abuse.
Typically heavy rain fall will cause a well to get muddy water. (This should not happen) if yours is muddy after heavy rains, then you need to look into "Well Liners" . Your Casing is not deep enough, or your first water vein is connected to surface water, the liner installation will block out that upper vein from mixing in muddy water with the deep water veins that are clean/clear water. I have Vids on liners.
How far away from the well can the home be? When it is piped with pvc. Could it pump 200-300 feet and give adequate volume and pressure for a small house?
Is there any reason you don't use a ratcheting crimper? A ratcheting one makes sure the connectors are all a uniform compression level, to make sure a good contact is made.
test your well water often . I have a koi pond and test it often . That made me think back in 2006 that I should be testing my well water also .You never know until you test . I would guess shalow wells it would be more important to test . I have farms around me horse and cow and my well is over 400 feet deep but both farms are below my property front and back . So guessing maybe at my 200 ft range on my well
I only see that happen if the filter traps the pipe dope & all the water runs thru it. Customers need to replace the first filter after 5 days of use, then it'll be fine. Rare occurrence
I have installed thousands of these systems in the 90's and injectors, chemical dispensers, iron filters, water softeners, UV filters and a ton of other systems!
4:42: one thing you don't comment about the rubber tape... stretch it a bit, and it self-sticks and helps seal better to keep out moisture. I used it for sealing connectors up a tower, but as rubber tape is UV sensitive... needed to cover it with electrical.
Great video, most good techs are not afraid of giving out expert instructions because they sell their craftsmanship and most importantly the customer trusts them. Any tech who can explain what they’re doing they’ll usually get my business and I will not look for someone else.
Thank you for the time you put into these videos. It is amazing to me how many people use pump pliers backwards... This guy uses them properly everytime. 😀
Great video. Would love to see some more closeups of your plumbing connections and wiring once finished. But I'm loving the channel. Lots of good stuff here. Thanks.
I believe this will end up more of a question than a comment. I have somewhat of a unique situation compared to most of your well/shallow well videos I have watched. And thank you very much for putting out such practical DIY (some/most) videos, I know some situations require professional help.
My situation is this, I live on a small river lake in South Central Texas. I have an above ground 3/4hp pump running our 9 zone yard irrigation system that was professionally designed and install by me and a couple friends over 30 yrs ago and has run flawlessly for 30+ yrs. But for that last 6 months or so my above ground pump started leaking at a gasket in the pump. I was given a used operating (Goulds 10EJ15412) 1&1/2hp submersible pump that was replaced in a deep well where my son-in-las worked that I now want to replace the above ground pump with. It will sit about 4-5' below the lake water surface level to prevent sucking any air when boat waves come by and pump up through pump shed and pressure tank then uphill about 25' rise at a 45 degree angle 200' up the length of our yard feeding the 9 zones and 4 sporadic faucets. It is not an option to change any of the 1 1/2" piping, some of it goes through concrete seawall.
Since the 1 1/2hp submersible pump has what looks like a 1" or 1 1/4" threaded output,
- will I loose much pressure and/or volume plumbing this pump to an irrigation system that has all main lines are 1 1/2"? Right now the above ground pump will easily run 1 zone and 4 hoses with sprinklers watering the edges and areas the irrigation system do not get. At the zones the pvc drops to 1" and then to 3/4" and finally 1/2" usually at the last sprinkler head. Basically leaving the pump at it's 1" or 1 1/4" output then immediately transitioning back up to 1&1/2" prior to the pressure tank and cutoff switch (which will be located in the pump shed).
- there is an external foot valve on the pump I was given, do I need an external foot valve for this type application where I will be able to easily pull/service the pump at any time? I saw on one of your videos you recommend this but I believe you said only on a deep well installation.
- I am hoping my application will allow the pump to run constantly while the irrigation and/or faucets are running and not cycle the pump on and off, any ideas? Are those cutoff switches adjustable to keep the pump running when needed?
Thanks for taking the time to put out your videos, I have found them packed full of knowledge and very useful.
Paul in Texas
I really like your roller that you use to install. I've done hundreds of these and that one tool would have made life a lot easier
A topic I never hear you mention is the size of the storage tank. In instances where there is space and the well produces enough water, I understand it is better to use a larger tank versus the small blue and white tanks. From what I read, the benefit is less startup on the pump. That means less stress on the pump (longer life), and less instances of needing startup current.
Always a good videos from Phil, with his videos, I was able to replace all components of my deep well and now have a running well! He even replied To my question when my new install did not work, diagnosed it was a broken wire, replaced the wire and it started working.
Keep the videos coming Phil.
Thanks Mr. Williams!
@@h2omechanic wait so since my well is only 50' i can use a smaller pump like this then? 37' to water 47' to the bottom. im just gonna use for irrigation in garden nothing crazy
@@Eastbaypiscesthat's my plan, should be plenty good for my garden.
When using stranded wire under a screw put a left hand twist in it to prevent the wire from being untwisted.
I have a pair of those yellow cutters. Glad you showed me the practical purpose.
For a situation where you want to use a generator with a well, is it worth adding some kind of a soft start circuit to cut down on the starting amps?
Love the channel. You are spot on with your information and explanations. I have learned a lot, and it's helped me troubleshoot wells. I am an electrician with 28 years of experience. When you twist the stranded wire to wrap the ground screw. If you twist it counterclockwise and wrap clockwise, it will tighten better. Thought maybe it might help.
Great video! Wish i could find someone with your skill set and honesty down here in Texas.
Great content as usual, but your background music is distracting.
This video was super helpful for me. Thank you!
Enjoy your teaching us, as for myself tho i cant hear you clearly over the music.
Always interesting to watch your video`s Our wellman in this area of Pa puts tank in ground its fiberglass with bladder inside and puts the switch with gauge inside the well above the pitiless adapter. So no freezing here in the North
excellent narration
I always use a pipe coupler and then an elbow or a tee with on side plugged on top so the pipe will hang straight down. I noticed that one is cocked some. On a well like a 100 ft or less I use a 120 volt pump. It is much easier to hook to a generator and some generators don't even have 240 volts. But you will need around a 3000 wat generator to handle the current surge when the pump starts unless it's one of the high priced soft start pumps.
Wow. Don’t ever come an work in Australia, Franklin would give no warranty on that installation. We need to use rubber cable and double heat shrinks.
Did your dad teach you how to teach people? You are one hell of a good teacher. They cant pay teachers 100's of k that are as good as you. Damn.
My dad taught me everything I know. But UA-cam is what made me realize how good I was at teaching. I teach In the same way I am able to learn (having Adhd) seems like most can connect better with my methods of teaching. Plus I enjoy it. I treat the camera as if I was training an employee
Hi sir, I have some questions regarding drilling, grouting, developing and completing a well:
1. When do you grout the well casing annulus? Is it done after you found a producing zone?
2. If grouting after you reach a producing zone, will the grout not affect or cover the producing zone?
3. Do you always do open hole completion or with slotted liners?
4. Is it not proper to drill up to solid formation and set casing then grout the annulus before proceeding during to find production zone?
I like all the youtube videos you posted and admire your knowledge, talent and drive in this kind of business. Hope to get answers from my questions. Thank you for the knowledge you imparted to us.
Pro top: Never cutt towards yourself, always cutt towards a buddy!
I wish you coulda tried it, it woulda be really REALLY NICE TO FIRE IT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME. ALSO YOU MUST BE IN A HOT WARM TEMPURATURE STATE, UNLIKE HERE IN SD, NEBR, COLO, KANSAS, MONTANA, ALL OF OUR SUBMURSABLES AND 80 GALLON TANKS ARE IN A 6' OR 8' TRENCH UNDERGROUND COVERED UP, IT FREEZES HERE ALL THE TIME 🥶🥶🥶🥶😳🤯😵😱🥶🥶🥶 GREAT JOB!! 😉👍
Yes it's very humid here. & only see about 25⁰ on our cold winter snaps
2023 hope this channel grow more 🦾
Well done Phillip!
What are those yellow handled wire strippers that you use?
I guess it really depends on the area, but I would think even for a temporary setup I would run conduit from the well into the pressure switch and use SOOW for the power pigtail and plug with water tight glands on all connections. A way of doing it without the conduit would be using the appropriate gland on the three wire zip cord from the pump. I don't know if there are pressure limit switches that are also water tight or whether that's needed but just something I would personally feel comfortable using.
Excellent no nonsense videos… one question…Why do you not use a poly rope safety line?…
Can you make another video with how to open and close the season with this kind of setup? I live Canada where pipes freeze....so I can't have any water in pipes or pressure tank ...
Have you guys ever used marine epoxy lined heat shrink?
I prefer that heat shrink, but you do such a damn thorough job with that tape I bet you never have an issue out of it.
I prefer epoxy heat shrink just because it looks cleaner.
Looks great, but since it is outdoors that wire should be run in flexible conduit.
Great video, yet again! Your videos are always helpful!!
I've watched many of your videos, enjoyed them all. Why not put the wire spool at the other end and pull the wire back towards the pump? Then it will never be short.
I enjoy the videos it's guy stuff and I like it. They are never the same always new obstacles to over come. Keep them coming cause I enjoy everyone of them.
Thank you for sharing these videos. I enjoy watching you work, very professional. I am wondering why you don't use any UNIONS in your piping? I have used them in many applications. When having to make any repairs, like because of broken pipes or whatever it makes disassembly easier and I don't have to cut out a lot of good pipe. For instance, if I had to change the bladder tank as you have it installed, I could disconnect at the union.
Greetings from New Zealand .... Totally on the Other Side of the World ...... :-) :-) :-) I just love All of your vidclip .... But Every Time I am just so dissapointed .... You go thru' the Whole Thing, but we NEVER see the result and see the WATER gushing out.... :-) :-) :-) This is in MOST of your vidclips .... The whole point of you doing ALL that Work is to give the customer water and we would Also like a taste of it too ..... :-) :-) :-) .... Best to You, Yours and All others, Cheers from ChCh, NZ
I looked for but missed any others asking this, but I am curious about:
A) Check Valve? I didn't see one installed. Necessary? Maybe built-in to the pump and not needed on shallow well?
B) Did you set the pump directly on the bottom of the bore? The casing was 80ft deep and I thought I saw you drop the pump to 80ft. Will sediment be a problem over time causing turbidity?
I have worked with 230V motors in the past and know I can change the rotation direction of the motor by switching 2 of the wires. Is motor rotation a concern for well pumps?
Thanks!
How do you keep the line from freezing?
Do you think you could run a well pump off a solar panel system
Been seeing signs for your company around crowders mountain
Doubtful.
Someone in n.c. named there company
Mike Hens.. well drillin
Very similar to our business name
He travels 4 states. We stick to va/nc & only 70mile radius
I am not sure if you answered this in another video but I would love to see a simple wiring schematic/explanation for what wire goes where when you connect the three pump wires to the yellow submersible wire and then connections topside. Do different pumps (more or less horsepower) require different wire gauges? I assume you run underground feeder to the connections topside of the well? Thanks man, you are putting out great content.
A typical 2 wire pump is simple to wire. Connect the green ground wire first, & the other wire can go any which way.
A 3 wire pump is the same, except you must hook up the Yellow starter wire to the yellow in the control box. A few other install videos go over wiring ect. They are the longer videos
@@h2omechanic I find that going over the "small details" even for a avid watcher is OK. for instance wire size is dependent on pump size and distance of run!!!! even why a 2 wire pump is used, even why do you call it a 2 wire when there are three. whats the difference? for instance i used a 4 wire due to me wanting the "capacitor" in my home as that in my belief is the most common failure point.
why in this video do you not use "brass fittings"? the grey fittings "the elbow" are the cheapest weakest things in my local hardware store!!!! now if that is a different "schedule" fitting then please comment on that. thanks for you vids though I do enjoy them. I feel sorry for these guys spending what they do for so little water though. I have a flowing well and the pump puts out a stream 15 ft vertically. (red lion 12gpm, 1/2hp.)and I believe 62gpm,108 ft deep
Very thorough! Thank you.
Thanks for the great videos. When and why are check valves installed on the down pipe sometimes?
Keeps the down pipe from emptying out, meaning you don't end up with a bunch of "air" in the line, if you end up below the vapor pressure of water.
Is there any well pump that will go down a 2 inch casing a 188 feet and supply water well 360 feet 8 gallons per minute
I'm curious about the white silicone looking material used to seal the wire where it enters the well. It appears oddly supple, just screams of quality, is it some 3M product?
I like to learn from your videos, very good information! I have a question, I'm remodeling an old cabin for my neighbors and it has a well by the house so I checked it out and put a pump in. It's 120 ft to water and 24ft to the bottom of the water or whatever I hit. I put a half hp pump in at 140 ft and connected the wire to plug in directly to the generator, when I start the generator it pumped about 15 gallons of water then quit,I did it again a couple hours later,same thing, I let it sit overnight tried again this morning, same thing. Any suggestions?
How accurate is the well tag? Specifically you state that you want to keep the pump inside the casing, the tag says the casing is at 80 feet and you indicated you were going to put the pump 'at 80 feet'. If there is any inaccuracy in your measurement (on the long side) or their measurement (on the short side) then the pump will be outside the casing. Would it not be better to set the pump at 75 feet (something close to, but not AT, the end of the casing)?
Also - I do not recall seeing you 'shock' this well before inserting the pump whereas I've seen that done in another video, was that not required for 'this' setup or was it done prior to the start of the video?
Do you have a Franklin Aid document on 2-wire motors and generator use and effects to the Franklin BIAC switch? Its not in the AIM manual. The Franklin AID is an old monthly doc, Franklin published in the past.
Your videos are great! Could you suggest a water depth meter?
I couldn’t help but notice you didn’t sanitize as well prior to installing the pump. When is that required?
On a irrigation well only 123' deep. Does it matter if the drop pipe is 1" verses 1-1/4". Pump is a 1hp 4" submerged? Thanks
At 9:35 can see the house that`s a fixer upper ,but it`s home .
Can you use solar system instead of generator in this setup! If yes what size? Thanks
Great video and content 👌
Could you give information on the wire you use. Gauge, volt
Awesome video Great work !
Are sure pvc will stand the winter freezing temperature?
No it will no. Everything must be covered up or drained out by winter.
Recently found your channel and did subscribe. Great content!
On one of your previous videos the subject was the PVC pump sleeve to protect the pump motor. When I replaced my shallow well submergible , about 6 months ago, I found on Franklin's site their advising using these PVC sleeves particularly on larger diameter wells to insure pump motor cooling.
I have a 85 foot 24" curbed well and it had gone through 3 pumps in 15 years, due to motor failure. I am convinced that had I installed the PVC sleeve on pump number one, I would still be using pump number one.
Was wondering why you did not include the PVC sleeve on this 10" shallow well?
Because this pump is set at 80ft. Water enters the well Below the motor, thus cold water will pass by the motor to cool it. A sleeve will help every pump.
Bur there are situations that need them more than others
The casing is 80' and that's how far you lowered the pump to, but how deep is the actual well drilled? I'm guessing it's deeper than the casing itself. If you don't know exactly how deep your casing goes, how far off the bottom of your well do you place your submersible pump to, generally?
A couple questions. Don't shoot the messenger.
#1. Should the well have been shocked by chlorine.
#2. Should the well have been bonded.#6 wire.(grounding rod)
Since the well is not steel, A PERSON doesn't want a lightening bolt to Fry the pump.
#3 should a disconnect switch have been installed at pump, maybe screwed to a wood stake, near the well.
#4. How would a person release the water, back down into the well, if there was a chance of freezing temperatures, to prevent the pvc from cracking.
Now the patch cord was only 10 feet or so.
The owner was also powering a camper and
The patch cord could be changed to 75 feet long next to camper.
We all know that temporary sometimes stretch a little bit.
I'm just
Thank You
I got a question when hookin wire to the pump how u kno which colored wire is which
Bro what is black pipe?
Is POP-off valve necessary? Mine is starting to leak can it be removed or needs to be replaced?
Not necessary at all. Only on big systems 2hp+. Remove it and plug it.
do you install well pump
Thank you for this video. Speaks right into my situation. My off grid well produces 10gpm. I have a 23gpm submersible pump. Is there a way for the two to work together without running the water dry? Thanks in advance!
If it ran dry, it mostly like wouldn't hurt it. But yes, you could install a low pressure cut off switch.
@@h2omechanic Thank you! Much appreciated.
You can also add a ball valve in the line before the tank and switch to throttle the output of the pump. A Dole valve would also do this but costs more and isn't adjustable.
How could a guy get a hold of you as I have a few questions about my water system in my home.
I have a 400gal fresh water holding tank, that runs to a 1/2hp non submersible pump with a flotec tank. I have set everything up the way you have shown in previous videos on your channel but I'm still encountering an issue.
If I could shoot you an email that would be sweet!
Happy holidays to you and your family!
Thank you for the wonderful / educational content you put out!
Hwdracing@gmail.com
Good video, but I was disappointed when you got to the end and did not check out the performance using a generator you provided.
H2O how do y’all know how much water a well will make?
5:52 I knew you was gonna talk about zip ties
Thankyou for having this channel! Ive never had to hook up a well before, but I now am in the process and I’m learning. Trying to learn from reading online and watching your videos. I just got a well drilled to hook up to my mobile home. The well is 100ft, 15 gpm, 8ft static water level. Should I be concerned that the static level is so high?
Also, (not being critical at all) just curious why you didn’t install a check valve before the pressure tank.
Wish you would have shown how to wire the pressure switch
I have videos on the pressure switch on my Well Pump Q&A Playlist.
What’s your thoughts on a cycle stop valve?
Only necessary if its a Irrigation well for a sprinkler system. For residential use, it keeps the pump under full load at all times .
You may get 70psi in the home, but the pump would be under 150-170psi of load (depending on the pump size)
While it's better for the electric motor, the pump stack/impellers & bearings and seeing unnecessary abuse.
@@h2omechanic thank you for your reply it was great to get your thoughts on it
Awesome
Won't that freeze in the winter?
Ever considered using pex for the above ground sections?
Got to well over 200 ft deep was clear now just muddy what do you think's wrong
Typically heavy rain fall will cause a well to get muddy water. (This should not happen) if yours is muddy after heavy rains, then you need to look into "Well Liners" .
Your Casing is not deep enough, or your first water vein is connected to surface water, the liner installation will block out that upper vein from mixing in muddy water with the deep water veins that are clean/clear water. I have Vids on liners.
I don't see any primer! Is this a new type of glue that doesn't require primer?
Yes.
Saving penni for a adapter
How far away from the well can the home be? When it is piped with pvc. Could it pump 200-300 feet and give adequate volume and pressure for a small house?
1" line would easily carry that distance.
Is there any reason you don't use a ratcheting crimper? A ratcheting one makes sure the connectors are all a uniform compression level, to make sure a good contact is made.
No torque arrester ?
Are using 1" or 1 1/4" tubing?
Did you replace that blue well seal plug with some type of vent?
you always show putting a bad of shock in the well but not this time is it because it is a shallow well
Is there a reason you use stranded wire on well pumps, and not solid core wire?
So if the well is 50m how meters of the cable and the pipe needed?
It really depends on what level the water is at in the well. But roughly 35-45 meters of pipe would be needed.
do you know whats a good size generator to run does well pump by chance ?
5500watt 240v generator is typically the minimum. Anything smaller can't handle the startup amps
Excellent video and really good music
4:17 Bush hog coming up behind you
test your well water often . I have a koi pond and test it often . That made me think back in 2006 that I should be testing my well water also .You never know until you test . I would guess shalow wells it would be more important to test . I have farms around me horse and cow and my well is over 400 feet deep but both farms are below my property front and back . So guessing maybe at my 200 ft range on my well
👍🙂
Did you forget the glue or is that all in one (Primer & Glue)?
It's all in one
Is it true that if you use too much pipe paste you will be tasting it in the water for a long time?
I only see that happen if the filter traps the pipe dope & all the water runs thru it. Customers need to replace the first filter after 5 days of use, then it'll be fine. Rare occurrence
Can I put a 40/60 pressure switch on a tank that does not have a bladder
Yes.
@@h2omechanic thanks
COST?