We spent a lot of money on a new pump and pipe system (HoseSolutions) and will be installing it in the next week. Great video of how to build your own pull system!!
Great video! I second a previous commenter's suggestion of a junction box just below the well cap. (It may be required, depending on the jurisdiction). A short run to the pump control, like yours, will be OK without a junction box. Longer runs are doable, but can be a P.I.T.A. Best to have the junction box, especially if there will be an inspection. I really like your idea of two layers of adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing over your butt splices. That extra insurance costs almost nothing. Many state codes in the USA require the pressure switch to be located within a given small distance (often, less than 1' or about 30 cm) of the pressure tank. Typically, it is _required_ to be on the _tank tee_ . If the pressure switch is further from the tank, it can set up an oscillation when the pump turns off. If the pressure switch is too far from the pressure tank, the transient change in water pressure when the pump turns off can cause the pressure switch to immediately cycle back on, run the pump, immediately shut the pump off, and the cycle starts over. Lather, rinse, repeat. I have seen this burn up the contacts on the pressure switch. Fortunately, this installation didn't cause worse damage. When I was a young man, I routinely pulled 126' or less, just shy of 40 meters (six sticks, 21' long, a bit less than 7 meters each) of 1", 25 mm, galvanized pipe full of water with a submersible pump hanging on the end. We did this without a gin-pole, but it was definitely a two person job. Any deeper than six sticks was just too much of a safety risk without a gin-pole or other mechanical advantage. I have done deeper wells with a front loader on a tractor. We had an elevator that clamped onto the drop line with a hand screw (like on a C clamp). At the high point of the front loader, clamp a Rigid pipe vise on the drop line, set it on the casing, then lower the bucket and reset the elevator. I used a short length of chain between the elevator and the bucket on the front loader. Depending on the size of the tractor, it would take two or even three hitches per stick of drop line. This isn't pretty, but when a farmer has lost a pump and needs to water livestock, this would get them out of a bind. At that time, many wells had a wind mill tower still standing above the well. REA brought electricity to farms when my parents were young. I have pulled pumps using a pulley at the top of the tower with another pulley tied off at ground level. Then pull the pump and drop line with a truck. This worked fine for wells up to 300', set with 1" galvanized drop line. I'm willing to bet it would work on deeper wells, but there weren't any in my area at the time. I now live in an area where wells are routinely deeper than 500', about 150 meters. A gin-pole with a power winch or a work-over rig is an absolute necessity at those depths, even with PVC drop line. Be well & Best regards!
@@gorgeoutdoors No, fortunately. Not even a close call. But, we always were careful and had backup wherever possible, just in case. For example, when pulling drop line by hand, we always left a piece of ½” steel plate with a slot that was a loose, sliding fit over the drop line sitting on top of the casing. The idea was that if we lost control during the lift, the steel plate would catch the coupling. We used either “well couplings” or 3000 pound class forged couplings, whichever were available, for a bit of extra protection. To do the actual lifting, we put a good pipe wrench on the pipe and used that as a handle to lift as high as practicable. Then, the other guy would put his wrench on and take the weight from the first guy. The first guy would remove his wrench followed by the second guy lifting. Repeat until a coupling lifts the steel plate. Move the plate to the bottom of the coupling. Remove the current stick of pipe from the string. Catch our breath, repeat. Like you, I’m still a pretty good horse. Why are my memories of this mostly in January or February, cold, with the wind blowing, with wet jeans from the water in the drop line? 😎 Note, this was in an era when plumbers could do well work legally. That’s no longer the case in almost all jurisdictions, unless, of course, they are cross licensed. We didn’t do enough well work to justify a work over rig. But, we did enough to have some tricks at hand to do it safely. Be well & Best regards!
This video has been a while. Dont know if ur still around. Im doing same thing as you expect going down 640 feet. I have no idea as to how heavy this might get. Thinking about a multi pully set up to lower pipe. You had 1 pully, it looked like you were having hard time at the end of lowering drop pipe?? Or did i misunderstand. Can you give ballpark guess on how much weight 300 feet of drop pipe plus pump. Thanks for ur video.... i now know about pipe Elevators !!!! Thanks again and hope it all works good. Ps i didn't mind the wind noise, was glad just to get more info about doing this
I like that idea. I think I've seen that. I've only burned out about 6 of these over the last 20 years, so I don't see all the tricks. 6 feet of slack is common.
I don't like adding that extra splice at initial install. Can always cut and splice when the time comes but until then the wire is fine. Of course, if the control box is not right there then you probably need to splice anyway, to something else for that run.
Great video. Tryibg to save some $$$ and do it myself. If I have to go 600ft my local guy quoted schedule 120 drope pipe with galcanized couplings. Do you thing i can hook up a winch to my truck to do the lowering? Or any other diy cheaper ideas for lowering it?
Some kind of gin pole or boom truck is the best. Makes it easy to hoist up the pipe and lower down. You could get a 20 foot 6X6 at the lumber yard, bolt on an extra 3 to 5 feet with a 4X4, and put a block at the top. Put a boat lashing or some bolts at the bottom to tie off. Find something to mount that to like a tractor or a old flatbed truck. You can torch out a U bracket to hold the pipe at the fittings instead of a pipe elevator. Most good irrigation stores can rent you some of this stuff.
Why would you not install the pitless first? Installers leave the pull pipe screwed in, drill a hole thru the pipe and casing, bolt it off and cut off the excess. It takes some strain off the pitless adapter and secures it in place. 300 feet and two guys could easily drop pvc pipe. You really don't need all that clamp and hoist rigging to hold it, a few wraps of rope would suffice. I did a pump replacement several years ago with the wife and myself, 200 foot well with no problems.
Installing it first is more to standard. Junk always seems to fall in it, compromising the mating. Doing it last keeps it more sanitary. You only get this option on the first install, the half will stay in when servicing or replacing the pump. I'm a big guy, but no way I could handle this over 200 feet. I could NEVER pull this without a winch and boom. I always use rigging, it brings me a better hourly when on site.
What a cool video. I dig your style mane. We just started a little tree farm and we have well. So in other words, we might be brothers from another Mother?? I'll totally trade you a subscribble righche nowwww
I would try the nearest irrigation or plumping supply. Not very common. My 1-1/4 was too big for 1 inch PVC drop pipe, I had to find a 1 inch. Many will have them available to rent.
Hey buddy I know you do a good job but can you send me a list of the product you got there like the wire the things that hold the pipe what kind of pipe it is and stuff cuz I'm putting in a 250-ft well and I haven't even got started yet and what kind of pump should I use if you could please let me know I appreciate you thank you sir
I would email this to a local irrigation supply and I bet they would make you a parts list followed with a price quote. well depth is important, power source, the flow in GPM you desire, and the working pressure you need.
@@gorgeoutdoors Guess I didn't stipulate dig method. How was the hole dug to put pipe in? Did you do it like would be done on regular well with rig or something you made?
If you are going to film outside, you have to stop the wind noise. You just have to handle it. Insisting your viewers listen to wind noise is discourteous and lazy.
I enjoyed watching you do all the filming, narrative, and job. I do miss doing that daily as a job, but extremely hot and ice cold days, not as much fun!
Excellent video.
We spent a lot of money on a new pump and pipe system (HoseSolutions) and will be installing it in the next week. Great video of how to build your own pull system!!
Yes, that WellHose is much easier to work with than PVC, especially when you don't do this often.
Great video, well done. Simple practical explanation no BS
👍👍
Thanks! 👍
Awsome video . Well done !
Great video! I second a previous commenter's suggestion of a junction box just below the well cap. (It may be required, depending on the jurisdiction). A short run to the pump control, like yours, will be OK without a junction box. Longer runs are doable, but can be a P.I.T.A. Best to have the junction box, especially if there will be an inspection.
I really like your idea of two layers of adhesive-lined heat-shrink tubing over your butt splices. That extra insurance costs almost nothing.
Many state codes in the USA require the pressure switch to be located within a given small distance (often, less than 1' or about 30 cm) of the pressure tank. Typically, it is _required_ to be on the _tank tee_ . If the pressure switch is further from the tank, it can set up an oscillation when the pump turns off. If the pressure switch is too far from the pressure tank, the transient change in water pressure when the pump turns off can cause the pressure switch to immediately cycle back on, run the pump, immediately shut the pump off, and the cycle starts over. Lather, rinse, repeat. I have seen this burn up the contacts on the pressure switch. Fortunately, this installation didn't cause worse damage.
When I was a young man, I routinely pulled 126' or less, just shy of 40 meters (six sticks, 21' long, a bit less than 7 meters each) of 1", 25 mm, galvanized pipe full of water with a submersible pump hanging on the end. We did this without a gin-pole, but it was definitely a two person job. Any deeper than six sticks was just too much of a safety risk without a gin-pole or other mechanical advantage.
I have done deeper wells with a front loader on a tractor. We had an elevator that clamped onto the drop line with a hand screw (like on a C clamp). At the high point of the front loader, clamp a Rigid pipe vise on the drop line, set it on the casing, then lower the bucket and reset the elevator. I used a short length of chain between the elevator and the bucket on the front loader. Depending on the size of the tractor, it would take two or even three hitches per stick of drop line. This isn't pretty, but when a farmer has lost a pump and needs to water livestock, this would get them out of a bind.
At that time, many wells had a wind mill tower still standing above the well. REA brought electricity to farms when my parents were young. I have pulled pumps using a pulley at the top of the tower with another pulley tied off at ground level. Then pull the pump and drop line with a truck. This worked fine for wells up to 300', set with 1" galvanized drop line. I'm willing to bet it would work on deeper wells, but there weren't any in my area at the time.
I now live in an area where wells are routinely deeper than 500', about 150 meters. A gin-pole with a power winch or a work-over rig is an absolute necessity at those depths, even with PVC drop line.
Be well & Best regards!
Thanks for the info. Ever had one get away from you?
@@gorgeoutdoors No, fortunately. Not even a close call. But, we always were careful and had backup wherever possible, just in case.
For example, when pulling drop line by hand, we always left a piece of ½” steel plate with a slot that was a loose, sliding fit over the drop line sitting on top of the casing. The idea was that if we lost control during the lift, the steel plate would catch the coupling. We used either “well couplings” or 3000 pound class forged couplings, whichever were available, for a bit of extra protection. To do the actual lifting, we put a good pipe wrench on the pipe and used that as a handle to lift as high as practicable. Then, the other guy would put his wrench on and take the weight from the first guy. The first guy would remove his wrench followed by the second guy lifting. Repeat until a coupling lifts the steel plate. Move the plate to the bottom of the coupling. Remove the current stick of pipe from the string. Catch our breath, repeat. Like you, I’m still a pretty good horse. Why are my memories of this mostly in January or February, cold, with the wind blowing, with wet jeans from the water in the drop line? 😎
Note, this was in an era when plumbers could do well work legally. That’s no longer the case in almost all jurisdictions, unless, of course, they are cross licensed. We didn’t do enough well work to justify a work over rig. But, we did enough to have some tricks at hand to do it safely. Be well & Best regards!
Nice informative video, thx for effort.
Very good video... Thanks...
Most welcome
Good job 👍
Thank u
Hi,really nice how to,thanks.
This video has been a while. Dont know if ur still around. Im doing same thing as you expect going down 640 feet. I have no idea as to how heavy this might get. Thinking about a multi pully set up to lower pipe. You had 1 pully, it looked like you were having hard time at the end of lowering drop pipe?? Or did i misunderstand. Can you give ballpark guess on how much weight 300 feet of drop pipe plus pump. Thanks for ur video.... i now know about pipe Elevators !!!! Thanks again and hope it all works good.
Ps i didn't mind the wind noise, was glad just to get more info about doing this
You should have spliced the wires at the cap location so if you have to pull out the pump you would not have to worry about short wires
I like that idea. I think I've seen that. I've only burned out about 6 of these over the last 20 years, so I don't see all the tricks. 6 feet of slack is common.
I don't like adding that extra splice at initial install. Can always cut and splice when the time comes but until then the wire is fine. Of course, if the control box is not right there then you probably need to splice anyway, to something else for that run.
I suppose there's a reason for not using rolled poly tube? Isn't a 1/2hp pump at 300' way under sized?
Great video. Tryibg to save some $$$ and do it myself. If I have to go 600ft my local guy quoted schedule 120 drope pipe with galcanized couplings. Do you thing i can hook up a winch to my truck to do the lowering? Or any other diy cheaper ideas for lowering it?
Some kind of gin pole or boom truck is the best. Makes it easy to hoist up the pipe and lower down. You could get a 20 foot 6X6 at the lumber yard, bolt on an extra 3 to 5 feet with a 4X4, and put a block at the top. Put a boat lashing or some bolts at the bottom to tie off. Find something to mount that to like a tractor or a old flatbed truck. You can torch out a U bracket to hold the pipe at the fittings instead of a pipe elevator. Most good irrigation stores can rent you some of this stuff.
@@gorgeoutdoors Great info brother. I got a half truck with a tongue on it and picked up a jib crane. Where did you get that pvc holder bit?
Why would you not install the pitless first? Installers leave the pull pipe screwed in, drill a hole thru the pipe and casing, bolt it off and cut off the excess. It takes some strain off the pitless adapter and secures it in place. 300 feet and two guys could easily drop pvc pipe. You really don't need all that clamp and hoist rigging to hold it, a few wraps of rope would suffice. I did a pump replacement several years ago with the wife and myself, 200 foot well with no problems.
Installing it first is more to standard. Junk always seems to fall in it, compromising the mating. Doing it last keeps it more sanitary. You only get this option on the first install, the half will stay in when servicing or replacing the pump. I'm a big guy, but no way I could handle this over 200 feet. I could NEVER pull this without a winch and boom. I always use rigging, it brings me a better hourly when on site.
What a cool video. I dig your style mane. We just started a little tree farm and we have well. So in other words, we might be brothers from another Mother?? I'll totally trade you a subscribble righche nowwww
Your on!
Can you give any details on the pipe elevator.. brand or where they can b purchased
I would try the nearest irrigation or plumping supply. Not very common. My 1-1/4 was too big for 1 inch PVC drop pipe, I had to find a 1 inch. Many will have them available to rent.
Hey buddy I know you do a good job but can you send me a list of the product you got there like the wire the things that hold the pipe what kind of pipe it is and stuff cuz I'm putting in a 250-ft well and I haven't even got started yet and what kind of pump should I use if you could please let me know I appreciate you thank you sir
I would email this to a local irrigation supply and I bet they would make you a parts list followed with a price quote. well depth is important, power source, the flow in GPM you desire, and the working pressure you need.
@@gorgeoutdoors where did you get the elevators?
@@gorgeoutdoors Sorry, I see your earlier reply
How did you put the pipe in the ground?
I made an attachment that holds a 30 foot telephone pole with a pulley at the top. Lift each 20 foot piece by rope and lower down one at a time.
@@gorgeoutdoors Guess I didn't stipulate dig method. How was the hole dug to put pipe in? Did you do it like would be done on regular well with rig or something you made?
I had the local well rig drill it and case it.
If you are going to film outside, you have to stop the wind noise. You just have to handle it. Insisting your viewers listen to wind noise is discourteous and lazy.
I enjoyed watching you do all the filming, narrative, and job. I do miss doing that daily as a job, but extremely hot and ice cold days, not as much fun!