F-150 Heater Blend Door Motor Replacement - Loud Clicking Noise - Remove Center Console and Stereo
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- 2011 Ford F-150 or Expedition, heater not working, loud clicking noise behind dashboard. How to remove and replace the Heater Blend Door Motor without removing the entire dash. $8 repair vs several hundred dollars at the dealer. Save money.
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First off, THANK YOU for this video! Tremendous help! I have only one note to add in case others faced the same things as we did. When we took off the old motor (which began to click non-stop) and installed the new motor, the teeth aligned as shown but the screw holes did not. For those people that face this here is that fix to align them: Hook up the front panel blower and heat control power plugs to the control panel (on the backside of those knobs). You only need those two hooked up. Start vehicle with the new motor not installed (but electrical plug hooked up). You can move the teeth on the new motor in small increments going from cold to hot or vice versa until they line up and the screw holes align. Shut off vehicle and proceed with video. Hope this helps someone.
Thank you for the upload! I just replaced this part on my 2011 F-150 after work today, your instructions were more than thorough. That back screw was a pain to get out!
2010 Ford F-150, I just completed my repair in about 1 hr thanks to your video. Got the part for $20. Great job. Thanks!
Walter Powell How'd you navigate the wiring bundle where you need to come up through the glove box...blocking the space on my 2010 f150
Thank you very much for posting! This saved me a lot of money. Ford wanted $130.00 per hour for labor and minimum of 3.5 hours. My buddy completed the job in 90 minutes! Although he did lose the locking pin on the blend door motor, and I got heat again without the noise. We opened up the old blend door motor and a tooth was missing in the gear.
they should make them from steel
@@ufartface I partially disagree. I agree the material choices were shit, but if you make the most expensive/hard to get to parts the strongest, and a thing that mechanically interacts with it a softer material, often the softer material will not wear down on the harder one.
If they were both stronger, both parts would wear equally, and eventually (even though it would take much longer) it would break, and everything would need to be replaced.
THANKS A MILLION!! Here are the quotes I got today to do this:
Goodyear couldn’t do it today. They told me to come back next week
Meineke $400 (told me the part cost $88)
Firestone $200 - $1000
Firestone told me they might have to take the entire dashboard out so it could take 8 hours. I said “the guy on UA-cam did it in about 15 minutes. I really did not want to attempt this but after getting BS quotes all morning, I said screw it. I got the part for $23 and followed this video. It took me a few hours (that back screw is hell!!) but ultimately I got it done. Thanks for a great tutorial!
Dude...can't thank you enough! Mine was clicking when switching the climate control all the way to cold. I had the bright idea of doing the re-calibration process and when i did that, it finished it off and then all i had was constant clicking. Ford quoted me $950 labor since the book called for 8 hours labor. I got the part on Amazon for $24 and with the help of your video, completed this repair start to finish in less than 3 hours. Thanks a million!!!
8 hours for 1 hr of work. what a scam.
I'm in the same predicament now. Ford wants 1300 to fix it. Just ordered the part today and I'll test my luck this weekend
2011 Ford SuperCrew, no floor shift. This was spot on. I was able to do this in 1 hour, I did not unhook all the wires, just the top and middle one for the dash part, and left all for the CD/Radio and let these two dangle. It took me a bit to figure out that the back screw that's hard to get to, make sure you put your hand/wrench all the way in, there's a small cavity, to get quarter turns, and I used my thumb nail from the other hand to keep socket down (between the ratchet and socket) on the screw head. Part #YH-1933 Ford Motorcraft from Amazon, $25.
Thank you for taking the time and make a video. You were very thorough in explaining each detail step by step. I definitely saved hundreds of dollars installing this piece myself. Excellent job!!!
Thank you so much for all the help. I did the replacement yesterday and referred to your video frequently. Thanks for doing these things so an amateur like me can save some cash.
This was such a great find. I used a 7mm on the smaller screws and 8mm on the others. Absolutely valuable if you can turn a bolt and read the size of the wrench you can replace this part. Saved $400 +
Just completed the replacement with this video. Thank you so much. You sure saved me several hundred dollars!!! I used a 5/16 box wrench for the back screw as several people here suggested and it worked much easier. It just took me about 3.5 hours including my trip to the dealership with part to make sure I would get the right one. Again a million!!!! (Or several hundred). The part for my 2010 F-150 XLT 4x4 was #yh1933.
Many thanks for this video. I have just completed this job on my 2011 F150, it took me a little over an hour. I was in no rush and I wanted to make sure of no mistakes. It was a very tight fit round the back to get the rear screw out and in, but got there in the end. The replacement part cost me $28 through Walmart and was ready for pick up in 4 days from placing the order. Feeling very pleased with myself having saved hundreds at the Ford dealer. Thanks again for the video!
Had a similar problem. When I turned mine to heat, it would click but eventually blow heat. Followed this video and replaced the part.
The blend door motor is much harder to remove than install. This video saved me from taking my truck to the dealer. Thanks.
TY! My 2011 has been giving me a loud clicking noise for a year. The first snow storm here and this item failed on me. I froze going home from work. You did a fantastic job in this instructional video.
Life saver! Thank you thank you! Fixed mine in about an hour. Mine was stuck on boiling hot air. It's getting warm here and when I got everything back together turned the control to cold and that air went cold I was in heaven! Thanks so much!
I just replaced the heater blend door on my 2012 F150 after watching your video and I can't thank you enough for the help! You saved me $1,000 in labor from a local mechanic shop in Austin.
Thanks for posting this video! It saved the day. My windows were frosting over in the mornings and I was worried about the cost of fixing it. Thanks to your video I was done in about 45 minutes.
45 minutes ? Lol
I just did mine today thanks to this video. I was able to fix it myself only cost me $60 for the part. Ford dealership wanted to charge me $250 for the parts and labor. thank you for the video I appreciate it.
McJ thank you for taking the time to make this video. I'm not sure I could have completed this job on my own at home without you!
Great help. Had it removed in 15 minutes. Replaced part for $20 at Advanced Auto Parts. Installed in 20 minutes. Small hands finally came in handy.
Thank you so much for your video. My 2011 F150 started clicking a few days ago and I had no idea what was wrong. Your video explained it very well. I am going to try to replace the motor myself. Couldn't do it without your video. Saved me a ton of money.
perfect video. It took me about 2 hours. 1 hour with just trying to get the back screw undone. My suggestion is to use the the thinnest socket wrench you can find. The thinner the head is, the better off you are. This video saved me $400 at the dealer.
I have no space to get my wrench. What did you use? I was able to get the socket on, but ratchet was too thick...I lost the bolt in the dash.
I followed your instructions to the letter and it wasn’t bad, except for that back screw, which is exceedingly difficult to reach. On that screw, I found that the ratchet was only needed to loosen the first couple of threads (and tighten the last couple of threads after replacing the motor). I used the 5/16 socket in my hand and was able to loosen and tighten with my fingers holding the socket more easily than with the ratchet in that very small space. Also, I did not have a 9/32 socket so I used 7mm on the other screws and that worked fine. Thank you very much for this excellent video!
I got Thompson's with my 2011 expedition and I've got the part already, just watched your video now ill replace once I get home.
Planning on fixing this next week. Thank you for the video. I've heard Ford charges $300 for the upper or lower and $700 for the other. This will save alot of money.
Great video - thanks for taking the time to put it out for us. I followed it but still could not get back bolt out. I took a dremel and cut away some of the stereo support steel on the right side - nothing that would damage the strength of the support, just some that prevented me from accessing the back bolt from the front. I then cut a 5/16 socket in half to make it 1/2” tall and with a small 1/4” drive ratchet was able to get the back bolt out from the front. Beats going through the glove box. Other than that damn back bolt, the job was easy especially if you follow the video for removing the trim and stereo. For sale - 1/2” high 5/16 socket..... :)
I just finished with the same repair, your video example was PERFECT to the tee, took about 30 to 40 min, all good! Thanks, You make UA-cam a great resource!! (Same Part #, 2011 F-150)
Dale Swift was your truck making a fast clicking noise ?
Thanks for the video. Dealership Quoted me $1250 today to replace mine.
Great video, thanks! You can also use a gear wrench instead of a socket for that tough bolt in the back. I'm doing this for the second time with a re-engineered part from Ford, but this refresher really helped.
Did this yesterday with a 25 dollar part and an hour and a half.
Great video it really helped a lot!
Thank you.
Where did you find the part? What's the correct name and number of the part?
This worked out great. I instead of going through the glove box, ground down a 5/32 socket and ratched the back screw from the front. This was a great help, thanks for the video!!!!
How do you do that? I lost a socket...and got it on the screw...but did not have enough room to get it on with the wrench
got it done. took about 3 hours, NAPA auto parts had a similar part but was slightly bigger than the original part, and couldn't get it to fit. Ordered from Amazon instead, $25, and they had the Motorcraft YH1933 part. Same day delivery. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video! The shop wanted $430 to fix this. After I ordered the new part ($18,) it took me all of about 30 minutes to do the repair.
Thanks for the video. I had the auto shop replace the actuator about 2 years ago and I need to do it again. You're right, the auto shop charged $200+ in labor to replace the actuator. The part cost less than $20. So this time, I'm going to do the replacement myself and save a couple hundred bucks. Thanks for the glove compartment tip. I have big hands to squeeze into a small area. Have a fine week. 👍🏽🙂 5/9/22
I had my blend motor fail on my 2010. Great video thanks!!
McJ, I can't thank you enough for this video. I'd like to buy you a 12-pack of your favorite beer! But, for now, I'll buy me my favourite beer, Sierra Nevada Torpedo, and drink them in salute to you. Huge thanks for posting this!!
My 2011 F-150 EcoBoost started this clicking noise when I would turn the heat control fully off, all the way counter-clockwise. Annoying, but just a slight tick clockwise and it stopped, so I was living with it. Then, 3 days ago, I had to replace my battery. When I was done with the new battery installation this starting clicking constantly! Extremely annoying! So I searched for help and found your video. Honestly, your video is excellent! Showing how to remove the trim parts and radio to gain access, then showing how to reach in thru glove box for that back screw gave me the confidence to do this. I live in Ocala, Florida and summer is coming, so I won't be wanting ANY heat coming in, so replacing this had to be done. Plus, the constant clicking was simply unbearable! I've completed the part replacement, everything is back together, working, and the clicking noise is gone! I'm guessing it took me about 2 hours to complete this. LOL, I don't work fast anymore, I'm slowing down.
Note: my F150 used metric sockets, 7mm and 8mm. Also, I used a small screwdriver to release the red lock on the plug. I pressed too hard, it popped out and fell. I heard it fall down... never to be seen again. The electrical plug does snap in, I hope it stays in! My biggest fear was that I was going to drop that back screw. I didn't, but it's like a black hole on the backside of that ductwork. It would have been gone! And I'm sure it would have rattled just to annoy me.
I may call my dealer to see what they charge for this job. From what others say, I may need to buy you a dozen 12-packs!!
Sorry for the long, rambling comment. Thanks again...
I used these instructions to fix my 2010 F150 XLT, replacing the same blend door which was stuck on cold. The instructions were very helpful. The only thing I wish was included here was some more info on what rachet and socket you were using. I have 3 different ratchet sets and knew that none of them would be low profile enough for that back screw so I went shopping and could not find any that I thought would fit. I even used a metal cutter and cut a socket down and that worked a little but once the screw started coming out I lost my clearance. Maybe the 2011 is slightly different from the 2010 as there is no way I could get a socket to work all the way in or out. I ended up using a tiny box end wrench which was slow going and caused more trips in and out of the glove box with the right arm which caused a new scratch each time. Still though, thanks for taking the time to do the vid. Lowest bid I got was $600. It took my 3.5 hours and $25 for the part for and I"m in love with myself now. I might get myself an engagement ring or maybe have someone do a bronze bust of me. I feel that good about it. BTW, I had no clicking noise just no heat. This fixed it.
Good video and helped me replace the actuator in my 2010 Ford F-150 XLT. I would add that you need small hands to get in through glove box and on top of actuator. Also, tie string to your small wrench and back screw to keep it from losing it. I didn't pull all the cables from the CD drive...I just pulled it out and let it sit below. Also the price of the part runs between $22-$30.
Great video, thanks! Got it out in under 10 minutes! New part gets here tomorrow!
Awesome video and saved me hundreds of dollars (and a day or two at the shop).
I ultimately used a 5/16" closed end wrench for the back bolt. Left hand fingertips over the middle top to hold the open end wrench down on the bolt. And right hand to pull the wrench handle for torque. About a third of a turn. Then, push the wrench up into the left hand. Reposition it, hold it down. And right hand to turn the bolt. Rinse and repeat until you get that back bolt pretty loose (5-10 minutes for me. Lastly with the left hand fingers holding the bolt from falling out and into the dashboard gravity abyss and I twisted the bolt with my right hand fingers, until it was out with three fingers to grasp the loose bolt and save it from the gravity abyss darkness behind the dasbboard depths.
Remove unit. Gently unplug wire connector.
Mistake:
I kept the car running for the project so i could enjoy the AC and burned my right hand a few times with something hot top right behind the dashboard.
Replaced actuator (Ford part for this job) and screwed the bolts in the same way. The back bolt with 5/16 took me about 5-10 minutes to twist the bolt in place. Put the electric clip back on. Twist down the front bolt back down into a pretty tight position (without breaking plastic. )
Great video, it took me about 3 hours and good results thanks to you!!!!
Yes!! Thanks for posting such a quality video showing how to do this....worked great, back screw on motor was tough to get at on my 2010 F150, seemed like less room than the 2011 in the video, but I got it and worked!! $22 part at advanced auto parts!!
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the video. This noise has been driving me mental all week.
Good video. Saved me lots of cursing. I cheated a little, and ground my 5/16 socket shorter. this allowed me to get to the back screw without having to be a gymnast with midget hands. I did have to drop the glovebox to steady the socket and was able to swing my ratchet in the bigger radio space. I was done i about 25 minutes. would have been done sooner, but dropped my little ratchet behind the heater box, and had to fish it out. Great job on your description of work and cautions.
Same thing just happened on my 2013 F150.. thanks this video helped a ton.
Excellent video. Really wanted this to work unfortunately I have a 2010 and there was absolutely no clearance to remove the rear bolt. Again, a great video helped me to get to it and get back, thanks
Awesome video! thanks for doing it! saved me hundreds or days of trying to figure it out myself!
Update: It worked! Thanks for posting! Got the part for $30 from a different website and it was a beast to get the old one out, but it worked! Thanks again!
Thank you, I just replace mine yesterday. This video was quite helpful.
You can reach your hand through the glovebox access and pop the power connection out of the door motor to stop the popping while you order the part. Luckily mine's stuck on cold in the summer.
Richard Holt I know this is an old comment, but you literally saved my bacon!! I got this problem the night before a road trip in Utah desert in summer. Without the part, took me 5 minutes to ensure I had cold air as no knocking for entire trip!!
Hi there. Just want to thank you for the great video. I swapped mine out today. Under 1hr. Thanks again.
This WORKED for us and fixed our issue!! Thank you for posting and for your efforts!!
Thank you for posting this video! It was a great help and I was able to take care of the problem.
Thank you! Much easier than I expected.
SOOOOOOOOOOOO helpful !!!! I really appreciate it that you took the time to make this video!!
Thanks for taking the time to put this video out.
Great video, and thanks. Just bought a used Ford with this issue and want to repair on my own. I guess the "built Ford tough" is something I should disregard then, cause to have this kind of issue in a 2010 model is just plain ridiculous.
Excellent training video. Well done. Camera work was good. The door chime was annoying, but other than that, you'd get an A in my class.
Awesome video dude!!
Saved me some hard earned cash and expanded my knowledge bank!!! Not easy but rewarding when it's all done and that noise is gone!!! Cheers
My Man! Awesome video! Saved me cash, time, etc., very helpful. You are the man!
Thank you for this excellent video. Was in and out in less than an hour.
Perfect video and thank you for the details. Saved me 600 on labor.
8mm socket wrench is your friend for that back screw!!
McJ, great job. Thank you.
Great video bro. 👍🏼👍🏼 I just ordered my part via Amazon. Thanks for the video.
thanks for your help, saved me $1350
Great Video. That you for the instructions. Suggest you let people know that they may have to recalibrate the blend control after installing a new actuator. On my 2014 STX I had to remove the hvac control fuse from the inside fuse panel and reinstall it. Then start the engine with AC on and it recalibrates.
I used Dorman 604-204 in hopes of a better part. Also, it really helped to use a socket swivel to get the four screws out at the bottom behind the trim.
Thanks for the video is was really helpful, only note to add is , that if your truck is a 2009 xlt 4.6 engine model is gonna be even harder to reach the back screw
That would be mines...and you are very correct. I lost a 5/16 socket into my dash
Great instructive video for replacing the heater blend door motor. huh, $8 to fix that dang clicking sound
THANK YOU!!! Just saved about $800 doing this myself with one exception. I couldn't get my ham fists to the back screw and thankfully my dainty wife's little hands made quick work of it.
Yeah I got to do this job. Maybe I’ll hire the neighbors kid for an hour. Haha. I’m sure my claws won’t fit. I wonder if it’s an odd thing to ask your neighbor hey can I hire your kid for an hour? Lol.
Great Video, Thanks! For me, a small box end wrench was easier for the back screw as my 1/4 inch drive socket was too high to get on the screw. There is just enough room to get your right hand in thorough the glove box area. Give it a try, you won't be disappointed! Good Luck!
I will have to try that...I lost a socket....so a 5/16 box end wrench form the front will work?
Great video. Got me through changing mine…. Clicking and stuck again within 2 weeks even with the motorcraft part. Fml
Thanks McJ was a very helpful video I'm back with when fix my truck , very help full
Part was only $27. I used a small box end wrench to get that back screw out. It was easier to maneuver for me.
Best video ever. we just changed ours, and the directions are perfect!! Thank you!!
What I did was open everything up unplug the motor took a screwdriver pop the top off ,it makes it easier to get to the back bolt . After removing the motor I took my sawal and cut the bracket that is in your way over the back bolt ,I also cut the tab that was screw on to it . know with that gone clean everything install the new motor ,now come from the top and use an 8 inc 1/4 drive extension slide the extension down from the top and use an 8mm socket on the end of the extension ,place the socket on to the screw and use your ratchet to tighten it down . now you are a head of the game if it goes out again.
You are the man! Enough said!
Thank you, this was extremely helpfull! One quick question, is this the blend actuator that controls vent position (floor/dash/defrost) or is it the one that controls temperature for the dual zone climate control?
I have a 2010 F150 and ran the heater for the first time this year today, was getting warm air from the driver side vents but the passenger side vents were ice cold no matter which position the pass side temp selector was in.
thanks for the help....great job
When you put the actuator arm into the female portion of the door to line up the teeth was it easy to move the door? I can not move mine.
excellent tutorial, thank you friend.
Great Video. thank you for this upload. i have the same problem with my 2011 F150 right now. it is clicking when i turn the temperature all the way to cold. Now i know how to fix it. Thanks
+Mike Beeman
Hey mike my truck was doing the exact same thing yours was, it would only click on the coldest setting but today it started clicking nonstop. Did you end up doing the same thing in the video to fix is or was it something else?
i didnt fix it. i just dealt with the annoying sound.
I went ahead and replaced it and it was the problem.
Thank you ! saved me a lot of money, but..... I lost a lot of my functions on the center console . any tips would be greatly appreciated
If you have sync, check behind the small plate that has the USB port and other circular thing, fought for quite some time before I removed the plate to find a hidden screw.
when your blend dor motor was going out. could you hear clicking right on top of the dash? directly above the radio? my truck was making that noise. took it to dealership and never heard it again. now my heater doesn't work. and now my radio isn't working
I removed mine, turned on the heater to realign the gears ... Still made the clicking noise. FML! I am not looking for the second one. I guess dual temp controls means two of these fuckers! I had to grind my socket to half the size to get the motor out and I can't see another one. I'll live with the clicking noise until I buy a newer truck. Great video and instructions. Thank you.
My 2011 F150 has dual zone heat/AC, I've determined that when I turn the passenger side temperature down, I get some clicking for a bit, then it stops - from the description in your video, it sounds like this is the actuator I have to change, I'm going to give it a try. Can you tell me if you needed to do any recalibration "voo-doo" ritual afterwards to set up the actuator, or does it self-calibrate?
If the air is only blowing out of the defrost vents no matter where it is selected then which actuator would that be? Has a loud and continuous clicking in the dash and sounds like it is coming from the passenger side behind the glovebox
I've got that same knocking noise behind the dash on my 2011 Ford F-150 XLT, but the air conditioner only blows through the defrost vents. The noise does not stop if I turn the temperature control knob from cold to hot or vice versa. Nothing stops it from clicking unless I turn the truck off. Even pressing the off button for the air conditioner does not stop the sound. It has the single mode climate control (not dual). Could your fix solve this problem too? Does my truck have more than one HVAC actuator?
Awesome video just did the work on my truck and saved a bunch of money. The only thing is now my airbag light is staying on in my dash. Any quick fix for that?
Is there a difference between YH-1881 & YH-1933? I have a 2010 F-150 single climate zone.
Awesome video! Keep it up...
Does the knob self adjust to where the motor is? Mine is stuck somewhere between super cold and neutral.
Make sure you do a reset on the blend door motor after install by pulling fuse for at least 1 min. 2009-2010 fuse 15, 2011-2014 fuse 46
What motor did you replace the air inlet door right. The temp control door is lower
Mine doesn't click, mine blows hot air on the drivers side and cold air on pass side. I also have dual climate control. Will this work for Mina as well? It's a 2012
Was your truck equipped with the dual climate control? My passanger side is just blowing hot heat and wont let me get cold air and it clicks. I was told by the dealer its my passengers side blend door. Is this the same as mine would be thanks.
Thank you very much for such an instructive video, can you tell me what number does the tool I use?
Would it be the same if I have the in dash screen on my truck
I disconnected through the glove box but the clicking didn't stop but it only blew cool air. Is there another heater blend motor on the left side?