How to "Top Off" Your Vehicle's A/C (With Self-Sealing Cans)
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Today I recharged the air conditioning on my '95 Ford Ranger. In this video, I explain how to know if your A/C needs to be recharged. It's very important to understand that you can only "top off" your air conditioning IF your system has some charge in it. If you do not, you will have to vacuum THEN recharge your air conditioning. I also talk about the tools needed to complete the job. I explain the use of the new self-sealing cans that are needed, and why you need a proper set of gauges. The same steps should apply to any make and model with an R134 system.
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A/C Pro Self-Sealing Can Tap
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A/C Pro Recharge Hose (For Self-Sealing Can)
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Yellow Jacket R22, 134A, 404A Gauges
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Taylor Instant Read Pocket Thermometer
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Elitech Refrigerant Leak Detector
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A/C Pro Leak Detection Kit
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FJC Oil and Dye Injector
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Due to factors beyond the control of NutsAndBoltsAuto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications or improper use of this information. NutsAndBoltsAuto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. No information contained in this video shall create a guarantee, expressed or implied, of a particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not NutsAndBoltsAuto
Here's some stuff you may need:
A/C Pro Self-Sealing Can Tap
amzn.to/2MSsEWq
A/C Pro Recharge Hose (For Self-Sealing Can)
amzn.to/3sOw7Ve
Yellow Jacket R22, 134A, 404A Gauges
amzn.to/3e8Gfnx
Taylor Instant Read Pocket Thermometer
amzn.to/3sS8zyU
Elitech Refrigerant Leak Detector
amzn.to/3c78r7R
A/C Pro Leak Detection Kit
amzn.to/3e7JlIB
FJC Oil and Dye Injector
amzn.to/3e8GPSf
this is quite possibly the most thorough instructional (which covers most of the small details which others omit) that i have ever watched. for the average garage mechanic (who only has the short hose/gauge), pay attention to every bit of this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! You explained how the A/C system works in a simple and easy to understand way for the DIYer.
Thanks! 👍
You can purge the line if you have the can connected (but not depressing self-sealing valve) and the low-side adapter connected to the car (if there is still any pressure in the system). Just unscrew the can a bit to use the car's pressure to purge the line.
I would also not hold the can upside down very long because too much liquid with enter the system and slug the compressor. Best to rock it slowly, or if you have patience, just let it enter slowly with the can upright (enters as vapor, not liquid). As long as there is liquid in the can it will keep a constant pressure and should enter the system on the suction side.
yep. purging the hose/gauge line is important. as you mention, all you need to do is unscrew the connected CAN from the hose a second to listen for the hiss, and the air will be gone.
Really thorough mate. Good job!
Just did this today with 12 oz can and a hose. Got my A/C outlet temp down to 36 degrees F which is damn cold!
Thank you for a excellent diy video!! I am now a new subscriber
Thanks! I really appreciate it. Im glad this helped :D
It's also important to note that all the cheap Self-Sealing Chinesium taps that are the right threading to fit Chinese hoses are old spike types that have had the spike ground off... making them now too short to actually open the Self-Sealing cans, buyer beware
I don't know why you would pierce the csn without connecting it to low side first
Great video, excellent details.
Most Excellent!
An additional note... the Can taps have either a 1/2" Acme thread or a 1/4" flare male outlet. The manifold gage tube either has a 1/2" Acme thread or a 1/4" flare female fitting. But the 1/4" flare will not connect to the 1/2" Acme thread without a special brass fitting adapter. Usually the adapter is a separate purchase.
Good video thanks
Thanks
EPA made the sealing cans mandatory nationwide, you need a Self-Sealing Can Tap to use any new cans
It's also important to note that all the cheap Chinesium taps are old spike types that have had the spike ground off... they are now too short to actually open the sealing cans, buyer beware
i wished i would have watched this before i used that stuff my a/c got cold for about 3 wks and it stop blowing cold and the fan i don't here it kicking in i know if i take it to the shop they will charge 3000 dollars one shop cleared my codes and charged 380 dollars and i took it back when the light came on and the guy said give it time it will go off so i took it out of town and they kept my jeep 2wks and charged me 1800 dollars that's why i started working on my car i do my own oil changes got to do one tomorrow but gotta figure out this a/c thing but not so much it's getting cooler but don't no it i have heat hmmm
Sometimes a trick to deal with those lights is to remove BOTH battery poles off over night..
I don't think the can is supposed to be turned upside down. That sends the contents out as a liquid.
Belt go VROOOOOOOOM
I used the single gauge short hose to test my static pressure and it came in what I beleive is low for 85 degrees, at 65 lbs. When I removed the hose from the port it was minor-leak wafing bubbles in the valve. Does this mean I have water in my system?
$5.99 for those cans? Wow. The good ole days
Ty... great video..
Great
Does that A/C Pro tap have a check valve? The cheap 'surebilt' brand tap I got at autozone doesn't have a check valve. When you need to swap cans, you end up having to open up the 'yellow' charging hose to the atmosphere, so you lose all of the refrigerant & get air in the line, forcing you to have to purge it again, which sucks.
There's a ChrisFix vid on how to charge A/C, where he uses a tap with a check valve (for traditional puncture cans) that keeps the yellow hose+tap sealed off while he swaps cans. How would you do this with the self-sealing cans? All of the taps I've seen appear to use the same cheap 'faucet' design & don't have a check valve (I don't believe)
Hello. Does the valve need to be all the way out for the refrigerant to flow or all the way in? Thank you.
Find the leaks should not have to add
Thanks！
F for the compressor
like # 555.
Why do you people continue to live in Commifornia?