I've fitted European spec H4 headlights on my 68. It worked great for half an hour or so. WAAAY brighter BUT the headlight switch WILL overheat if you use these headlights on the original wiring. On my car they drew more amps than the switch could handle, causing the lights to go on and off intermettendly. I was able to solve this by fitting relays that trigger from the original wiring, sourcing power from the battery through a 20 Amp Fuse. I can assure you this is not something you want to find out when it's raining at night. Love the show, very grateful for the info.
Try the sealed beam LED's, MUCH lower power draw than stock. Of course, when changing old sealed beam lights to others (halogen or sealed beam), you should always replace the switch too, I assume you did that though.
Chris Ingrassia - I am trying to replace my tail lights on my 1968 Mustang Coupe with LED lights however, I can't find the flasher that needs to be replaced to make the LED work properly. I found what looks like a voltage regulator under the dash near the drivers side vent. Where is the flasher located?
Chris, you're doing a BIG no no in my book. Never ever put screws in with a power tool. Always use a screw driver. Those "paths" for the screws can get messed up and stripped. This is mostly effective on plastic parts. Use the screw in reverse on the plastic bore for the screw until you feel it "drop" into it's original path it cut the first time. I do not mean to offend. This is just a pet peeve of mine.
Hey Doc, I bought/installed these headlamps (much brighter), but while driving or parked with the engine off the lights will both turn completely off/on intermittently. Do you think I need a new light switch?
I put conductive grease on EVERY electrical connection that I take apart on old cars. Ever notice the white powder growing on your aluminum and brass pins and conductors? That is electrolysis , dissimilar metals begin eating each other, eventually leading to shorts, or worse. Conductive grease stops this nasty stuff permanent
Great video but you really need to use that gun or the correct drill bit cause it sounded like you stripped the heads out of the screws... smh. Stick to acting and let someone else do the work. Poor musrang.🤬😡😡
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I've fitted European spec H4 headlights on my 68. It worked great for half an hour or so. WAAAY brighter BUT the headlight switch WILL overheat if you use these headlights on the original wiring. On my car they drew more amps than the switch could handle, causing the lights to go on and off intermettendly. I was able to solve this by fitting relays that trigger from the original wiring, sourcing power from the battery through a 20 Amp Fuse. I can assure you this is not something you want to find out when it's raining at night. Love the show, very grateful for the info.
Try the sealed beam LED's, MUCH lower power draw than stock. Of course, when changing old sealed beam lights to others (halogen or sealed beam), you should always replace the switch too, I assume you did that though.
Yes, that is most likely the issue. Thanks for watchin the show, Chris
They will wrok qwell with the factory wireing,but if the switch is old,I would replace it too. Chris
They work great with the factory wireing.
Chris Ingrassia - I am trying to replace my tail lights on my 1968 Mustang Coupe with LED lights however, I can't find the flasher that needs to be replaced to make the LED work properly. I found what looks like a voltage regulator under the dash near the drivers side vent. Where is the flasher located?
Just bought set tonight I guessing I need new Wiring Harness next Thanks
Chris, you're doing a BIG no no in my book. Never ever put screws in with a power tool. Always use a screw driver. Those "paths" for the screws can get messed up and stripped. This is mostly effective on plastic parts. Use the screw in reverse on the plastic bore for the screw until you feel it "drop" into it's original path it cut the first time. I do not mean to offend. This is just a pet peeve of mine.
Yo doc! Luv your video's but I dont drive at night. Next! 😜
Question: Will these work well with existing factory wiring or should the wiring/switch be replaced too? Thanks for all your videos!
Hey Doc, I bought/installed these headlamps (much brighter), but while driving or parked with the engine off the lights will both turn completely off/on intermittently. Do you think I need a new light switch?
I put conductive grease on EVERY electrical connection that I take apart on old cars. Ever notice the white powder growing on your aluminum and brass pins and conductors? That is electrolysis , dissimilar metals begin eating each other, eventually leading to shorts, or worse. Conductive grease stops this nasty stuff permanent
Great tip.. Thank you !!!
and you also get 4 stripped phillips head screws...I no longer trust you with that screw gun.
Next big conspiracy lol headlights 🤯 lol
Its the Russia's.. lol
Great video but you really need to use that gun or the correct drill bit cause it sounded like you stripped the heads out of the screws... smh. Stick to acting and let someone else do the work. Poor musrang.🤬😡😡