Couldn’t believe this actually worked. I had tried so many other things but nothing was working. I now have a working stereo in my 2010 ford mustang, thank you.
This video saved me a lot of time and money. I've gone without a radio for a long time and just fixed it in 40 mins thanks to you. Although hard to see without a microscope, I'm pretty sure one side didn't have any solder at all.
This is perfect. I need to try this on my '14 Focus ACM. I don't know if it's going to be the same chip (or if the refdes changed between boards), but I wouldn't be surprised if there's a poorly seated power transistor. I had a year of popping and tripping some resettable fuse or soemthing. And now my ACM is completely dead after a couple of instances of loud, staticky pops.
@@DiagandFix My board layout ended up being completely different. I never found an amp IC exactly like what you saw, and I found no _obvious_ solder issues, and I gave it a decent once over with our microscope. The two possible indicators I found were a regulator with inconsistent solder on the heat sink, and the weird PTH side mount ICs had a questionable amount of thermal paste in one spot, suggesting inadequate heat transfer. Both point to thermal issues, of course, but are completely different from what you saw. And I'm not even sure the regulator soldering was _wrong_, as it had a grid of holes, some of which were obscured by solder, but some were open. From what I read, that is a strategy used on regulator heat shrinks to actually allow some air flow through it. Seems kinda weak to me, but I dunno. In the end I gave up and rolled the dice on an ebay replacement.
@@RobertDotterer Thanks! It mostly does, though Sync doesn't want to answer phone calls right, now, and I did already hear a little pop and hiss once, recently.
Hi Robert. Fantastic video. In your most humble opinion, what is the root cause of this failure? Seems like Ford has an epidemic of poorly soldered chips in their radios, mine included currently. Sony HD with Sync out of my 2014 Escape Titanium. No sound, can't change the stations, can't change the input, CD reads but no sound. I can't believe in this day and age that even Sony brand radios are not holding up quality like they did thirty years ago. Thank you! John
Honestly I don't know what the cause is. I would assume poor Solder but you have to also account for all the vibration, heating, and cooling, these modules go through in a car. This type of failure is very common in automotive electronics, especially instrument clusters.
Thank you for posting this video. My friend's Ford Escape had the no sound issue. Checked a lot of components on the top to no avail. Found Q201 on the bottom of the PCB. However, instead of 8 pin, it was a 3 pin transistor. Same story though, failed solder, lifting off the PCB. RoHS is great, right?
update: this was exactly what the problem was. i found another ACM for 45 Plus shipping in Nashville. reinstall wasn't bad. just hard to get those clips off and on because they're so hard to reach and maneuver
I have a 2015 Ford Edge with the 8" touchscreen entertainment center. I'm wondering if the ACM module is similar to this ACM module? I don't have any problems with the ACM module with the exception of there are no line-level outputs from the preamps. It looks like I can see on the left side of your board what looks like a Class D amplifier stage. Would you happen to know if the line level inputs going into those Class D amplifier chips (I assume they are the amplifiers) are easily accessible? I'm thinking about hacking my ACM to extract the line-level signals and disabling the internal amplifier, then just bringing the line-level outputs outside of the ACM so I can provide my own amplification. Let me know if you pinned out that side of the board and what your thoughts are.
I do not have the magnification level, but to my eye the Q201 solder joints look OK on my radio. I partially disassembled the radio and leaving the bottom and left side in place in order to keep the heat sink connected. With the radio like this, I plugged it back into the car. Once connected and powered up, touching the Q201 component with a piece of plastic caused the radio to start running again. After it ran for a few minutes the Q201 chip was very hot to the touch. I suspect that the solder joint is actually melting with a combination of use and high interior temperatures.
Hi Sir do you know what smd transitiors are used in this circuit board I am missing one I need to buy and replace one is there any options to fix this other than a new smd transistors
@@RobertDotterer hey I fixed the chip the same way you said and it fixed the blinking clock but now when it plays nothing comes out of the speakers I was wondering if this happens to you or if you know the solution
👍 SUBSTANTIAL ROBERT DOTTERER My Mentor ROBERT DOTTERER have a great weekend with all your family around you SUBSTANTIAL ROBERT DOTTERER From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 18:00pm
I spent days looking for this info and your video sent me straight to my issue! Couldn’t find helpful info anywhere else! Very much appreciated!
I hope it helped you!
1 week working on my stereo (2012 mustang), i almost give up until i saw this video, now it works, thanks!!!
Glad it helped!
Couldn’t believe this actually worked. I had tried so many other things but nothing was working. I now have a working stereo in my 2010 ford mustang, thank you.
This video saved me a lot of time and money. I've gone without a radio for a long time and just fixed it in 40 mins thanks to you. Although hard to see without a microscope, I'm pretty sure one side didn't have any solder at all.
Another good detailed and informative video. Nice how you found the loose IC. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you
Going through the same thing on a 2010 fusion. Thanks for the video.
Let me know if you fix it
I appreciated this vid fam - have a 14 fusion with ACM problem and was wondering what the board looked like
I am glad the video helped. I have no know idea what each year and model acm looks like.
This is perfect. I need to try this on my '14 Focus ACM. I don't know if it's going to be the same chip (or if the refdes changed between boards), but I wouldn't be surprised if there's a poorly seated power transistor. I had a year of popping and tripping some resettable fuse or soemthing. And now my ACM is completely dead after a couple of instances of loud, staticky pops.
Please let us know if you were able to find the same issue with yours. It would be a big help! Thank you in advance
@@DiagandFix My board layout ended up being completely different. I never found an amp IC exactly like what you saw, and I found no _obvious_ solder issues, and I gave it a decent once over with our microscope.
The two possible indicators I found were a regulator with inconsistent solder on the heat sink, and the weird PTH side mount ICs had a questionable amount of thermal paste in one spot, suggesting inadequate heat transfer.
Both point to thermal issues, of course, but are completely different from what you saw. And I'm not even sure the regulator soldering was _wrong_, as it had a grid of holes, some of which were obscured by solder, but some were open. From what I read, that is a strategy used on regulator heat shrinks to actually allow some air flow through it. Seems kinda weak to me, but I dunno.
In the end I gave up and rolled the dice on an ebay replacement.
I hope it works.
@@RobertDotterer Thanks! It mostly does, though Sync doesn't want to answer phone calls right, now, and I did already hear a little pop and hiss once, recently.
Hi Robert. Fantastic video. In your most humble opinion, what is the root cause of this failure? Seems like Ford has an epidemic of poorly soldered chips in their radios, mine included currently. Sony HD with Sync out of my 2014 Escape Titanium. No sound, can't change the stations, can't change the input, CD reads but no sound. I can't believe in this day and age that even Sony brand radios are not holding up quality like they did thirty years ago. Thank you! John
Honestly I don't know what the cause is. I would assume poor Solder but you have to also account for all the vibration, heating, and cooling, these modules go through in a car. This type of failure is very common in automotive electronics, especially instrument clusters.
This component gets very hot to the touch when the radio is running. It might be melting it's own solder connection. Hit a bump and it slides out.
Thank you for posting this video. My friend's Ford Escape had the no sound issue. Checked a lot of components on the top to no avail. Found Q201 on the bottom of the PCB. However, instead of 8 pin, it was a 3 pin transistor. Same story though, failed solder, lifting off the PCB. RoHS is great, right?
Excellent video!
update: this was exactly what the problem was. i found another ACM for 45 Plus shipping in Nashville. reinstall wasn't bad. just hard to get those clips off and on because they're so hard to reach and maneuver
I wonder if the fusion is the same. Had one a couple months ago no sound and got one from wrecking yard and still no sound
Some are simular. You just have to test the parts to find the failures.
I have a 2015 Ford Edge with the 8" touchscreen entertainment center. I'm wondering if the ACM module is similar to this ACM module? I don't have any problems with the ACM module with the exception of there are no line-level outputs from the preamps. It looks like I can see on the left side of your board what looks like a Class D amplifier stage. Would you happen to know if the line level inputs going into those Class D amplifier chips (I assume they are the amplifiers) are easily accessible? I'm thinking about hacking my ACM to extract the line-level signals and disabling the internal amplifier, then just bringing the line-level outputs outside of the ACM so I can provide my own amplification. Let me know if you pinned out that side of the board and what your thoughts are.
I do not have the magnification level, but to my eye the Q201 solder joints look OK on my radio.
I partially disassembled the radio and leaving the bottom and left side in place in order to keep the heat sink connected. With the radio like this, I plugged it back into the car. Once connected and powered up, touching the Q201 component with a piece of plastic caused the radio to start running again. After it ran for a few minutes the Q201 chip was very hot to the touch. I suspect that the solder joint is actually melting with a combination of use and high interior temperatures.
I would reflow the solder and see if it keeps working and the temperature goes down.
What's that gel you used when removing and replacing the chip?
Conformal coating remover by MG Chemicals.
what I don't get is why us there a spot for a 15 amp fuse in the rear fuse panel but Furd decided they didn't need to put one there??
I cannot tell you why manufactures do what they do.
How do you remove the ribbon from the circuit board without damaging it?
Cuando no se comunica el modulo ACM (Audio Control System) verificar que el IC convertidor A1040/e este siendo alimentado en el pin 3 con 5 Voltios
Hi Sir do you know what smd transitiors are used in this circuit board I am missing one I need to buy and replace one is there any options to fix this other than a new smd transistors
Could I do this without a microscope if not is there another way or company I can get this repaired through?
I'm sure it can be done. It depends on your skill level.
@@RobertDotterer hey I fixed the chip the same way you said and it fixed the blinking clock but now when it plays nothing comes out of the speakers I was wondering if this happens to you or if you know the solution
Nice!
Yo limpie la tarjeta ACM con dieléctrico y realice prueba . Y el sonido regreso. Por si lo quieren intentar. Saludos
I've got no sound, crackling noises, and it keeps happening.
I would inspect the board.
There’s no way I’m going to be able to pull that off…
You never know unless you try.
@@RobertDotterer I took it apart, looks normal. I’m sure I need to replace this thing though…
Water damage
That is not from water damage
👍
SUBSTANTIAL ROBERT DOTTERER
My Mentor ROBERT DOTTERER
have a great weekend with all your family around you
SUBSTANTIAL ROBERT DOTTERER
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 18:00pm
You too, thank you!