Steering, tie rods, drag arms etc. explained Part 1
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- Опубліковано 9 лис 2019
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If you have a Defender/Tdi problem and do not know how to fix it, drop me a line!
Maybe I can help!?
britrest@britrest.com
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Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
Quebec
J1M2A3
Canada - Авто та транспорт
Your channel is the best regarding old school tips for DIY guys like me ❤
Great! that's why I do this to save you guys a few quid
You are amazing! I was "taken" by a guy for my Rover Series 3 1980 (Santana) diesel. You have been my salvation. I'm a 71 year old female retired teacher. Loved driving my dad's old army jeep when I was young. I thought buying this Series 3 1980 would be so much fun driving around the my area in Cocoa Beach, Florida. I can not corners because I'm just not that strong and my hubby turns the wheel but it is very hard for him. Of course, there is much play in the steering wheel. I already have so much money invested, there is no turning back. No one around here knows how to work on the rover. My husband and I replaced the clutch and slave cylinder. My hands are much smaller than my husbands so I can get under truck and maneuver things and then he can tighten. We make a great team. Wiring has been fixed (90% haha) but the steering has me in tears. You are my saving grace. Please continue posting. You make my laugh and smile.
Many thanks!
I can imagine burning the nylock,drilling three holes whilst rooting round looking for enough washers and contemplating barbed wire as a splitpin!!!lol
Gwyn Lewis 4x4 does Polyboots for Defender TREs and steering box drop arm, now excellent bit of kit.
Hi Mike very well done as always very great help many thanks Eliot
I have fallen in love with stainless split pins......
Good show once again Mike, l drilled tapped and fitted grease nippels on my 110 in 1988 ? Inc rear a frame , grease regularly and I can't remember replacing one since 🏵️
Good stuff
Great advice: bend pin over so as not to snag your raccoon!
You don’t want to damage your raccoon!
you are the best!
Thank you!
My OME steering damper lasted about ten years and many bush trips (90% off-road). But eventually it developed some slack. It would still damp, but it had about an inch of free movement before it started damping as you changed direction. Didn't help the "precision" Defender steering much
I always try to keep the little spring clips from old boots you never know when they may come in handy. Fiddly job though especially when greasy hands and trying to not rip the rubber
Those spiral clips are buggers to get back on!
I struggle finding the hole if there`s no hair around it ......
A hammer is Land Rover Tool #1! If it doesn't work... get a bigger hammer
Interesting, my replacement tie rod ends didn't have a castle nut, neither did the ones i replaced. should i be worried?
Only if there was a plain nut - there should be a nyloc nut, if there is no castle nut
@@BritannicaRestorations has the nylon nut, thank you for the reply 🙏
Strange as both my tie rod ends do have grease nipples on them. Perhaps they were genuine parts
It seems genuine ones are sealed, some aftermarket have greasers and some don't
The tie rod end portion felt extra bodged. What are the differences if you do it the right way? I'd rather wait for the parts to show up than use wire.
I did't have any parts, wiring is acceptable and anything to stop water ingress is better than nothing - as I mentioned the customer has been notified
I got a track rod end ages ago and it came without the nut. can't work out what thread it is but its not 12mm. Bought anothet from Euro car parts and it has a nyloc and no hole and no washer. Is a nyloc acceptable?
Yes you can use them, but they are a bugger to tighten up as they will spin the joint in the housing soon as the nylon hits the thread - what I do is pack the threaded part with washers and pull the nut down so that the taper pulls tight into the socket - once tight, back off the nut and remove all but one washer and try again - not easy
@@BritannicaRestorations I'll buy another with the proper spec then. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@BritannicaRestorations What might that other thread be? ½ unf?
If it is for a Defender it should be M12