i made mine to run the main fan whenever the engine is running, made all the difference in the world. no more over heating or boiling over - runs at about 179-185 on a very hot summer day now
The corvette was designed to run hot, it’s a reverse flow so coolant to heads first then the block. Fan won’t even kick on until 200-220. Perfectly normal
I upgraded to a wild Stroker engine and found my engine racing to 250 degrees in traffic. Here was my solution on my 87: new fan relays, fresh grounding, new front air dams, 160 degree Tstat, 3 core champion radiator, hood vents, and tuning the FiTech fans to turns on and off between 165 and 180, slighly staggered. Now in 100 degrees with a/c it will hold at 170 cruising and 190 in park. I consider anything over 200 too much. Txs for the vid, very good for stock engines.
If you run Evans waterless coolant, these engines will probably respond well & its efficient, you can run a 0 psi cap & aggressive ignition timing. 0 psi cooling system reduces a lot of stress on the cooling system components. Evans coolant has been proven benefits for years & on the race circuits. In fact, Jack Evans was the inventor of the LT1 reverse cooling system for GM & there was a long patent lawsuit....
Thank you so much John this works for my 88 Corvette. I’ve been driving it stop and go traffic downtown on the freeway and lol things keep going on at 185 and turn off at 173. My car used to go up to 230 and I hated the heat like smell.
Good deal, T.J.! Your son, is going to LOVE it! I, used to put a 160 degree thermostat, in all my hottish carbureted stuff.😀 I thought, I was doing something. I, know fuel injected stuff, is different.
Nicely done. If it works it ain’t wrong. Just a side note. The temp gauge sensor is in the thermostat crossover and your new fan switch is in the cylinder head where it will always be hotter so most likely your fans will not shut off because it will not get down to 175 with a 180 thermostat. Check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, 20 psi is the lower limit.
Very smart to go with the 180 t At that temp the system gos into what’s called closed loop on these models and it’s important that it does . For those that don’t know what that is it would be in your best interest to check that out, open and closed loop …..
Cool thanks John (no pun intended) 😁 Next time I take my dad's C4 for a cruise to get some new NEW BALANCE kicks I'll do this for him and maybe he won't forget my next birthday 🤣🤣🤣 NB factory and outlet is in our town,,, Skowhegan Maine.
UPDATE: Called and talked to him about it. I'm an idiot his is a 1990 LT5 engine ZR-1 model. And been a subscriber for awhile John, Always Good content. 💪🏼
If you run Evans waterless coolant, these engines will probably respond well & its efficient, you can run a 0 psi cap & aggressive ignition timing. 0 psi cooling system reduces a lot of stress on the cooling system components. Evans coolant has been proven benefits for years & on the race circuits. In fact, Jack Evans was the inventor of the LT1 reverse cooling system for GM & there was a long patent lawsuit.... I plan on someday switching my 87 over, whenever i get it running since its been in storage for many years due to health problems & life crisis.
there also used to be a cold air intake kit that would draw cool air from the front liscense plate, it had a panel to replace the stock one. that will help keep temps down too. had a buddy that used to street race his vette, he had that setup itvwas nice👍
Super common on c4’s to have debris and leaves stuck in the condenser and radiator to the point they overheat sitting and are ok moving. You have to remove a ton of stuff to clean it out! Trying to hose it out without disassembling won’t work either
When I bought my 1994 Vette I had cooling issues (although I didn't realize at the time how hot the C4's are designed to run). Close inspection revealed exactly what you said: a bunch of leaves and debris stuck between the condenser and the radiator (maybe an inch of space between them), right in front of the auxiliary fan. C4's suck up leaves like a Hoover vacuum. It's best to remove [a ton of stuff!] to clean it out properly; I was able to fashion a toothbrush on a long narrow wooden stick and VERY GENTLY cleaned the fins (barely touching, as I know they are extremely delicate). That solved my cooling issue. Oh, and don't try using compressed air -- that will bend the fins up faster than you could do it manually.
I disagree only because I've had to do this stuff before. You can use an air wand from HD or HF to get you started. Then you can put a piece of PVC on the end of a garden hose using various adapters. Drill holes and you can gently spray water in there. It works great.
The nice thing about these cars is when you remove the catalytic converters (3) and install cheap used aftermarket exhaust pipes (I found a set of Hooker 2-1/4 for $200) plus a H or X pipe the car will pickup .2 in the 1/4mile and gain a few mpg . I also ended up changing from a 275 rear tire to a 285 just to gain a few mm width which also translates to a mm or two in height. After installing a little "tweaked" factory torque converter THE GAIN WAS .68 in the 1/4 mile. No engine mods and better fuel economy. No tuning . I miss that old car.
My 86 has a fan in the front which I thought was burned out and the Rad fan I use a 210F.deg. switch isolated. She'll hold 220 at stops but needs air when romping around town. Mine still has its original front fan but not used (now I know) Also she's female but still gets up goes when needed. She'a a Looker not a runner these days and a very fun car to have. Even my manual states something about these motors like to run hot but I rather not.
I used to race those cars in the early 90s we had to put a Hypertec chip in them and a A1 160° Thermo switch, then then we put underdrive pulleys the crossfire vette went 1.38 60 ft time 14.29 quarter stock 👍 those cars are a lot of fun Top speed 145mph
I think the fan On/Off temps should be set higher than thermostat rating so the thermostat stays open & ecm goes into closed loop. So for a 180f thermostat, a 195F/210F should be used, but best to ask cooling experts like Flex-A-Light who sells adjustable fan switches on how they recommend adjusting fan temps to thermostat. Also, I'd test these switches on the stove in hot water & a calibrated thermometer & ohm meter to be sure those Chinese switches are accurate to specs.
L98's and LT1's always had low oil pressure. I had a showroom new '96 Z28 and my best friend had a '92 Z28 with an l98 and they both had low oil pressure. Yes, he had the cooler car so I bought one just like his years later.. 😂
I gotta 95 vette.oil pressure when warm at idle is around 20 or a bit less.i thought it was low too but after some research gm manual said 7 to 8 psi per rpm.been driving this car 2 and a half years.bought it with 112000 miles has 133000 now. still running strong.
Rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 at operating temperature so whatever the tach says add two zeros while you’re driving matches or is close enough, you’re good
This will work…but… the car is running hot because there’s debris blocking airflow through the radiator. You can fix that by pulling the radiator out and spraying it out. Then the car will cool like normal.
There is much easier way than pulling the whole radiator out which is a pain. Harbor Freight or Home Depot, etc., has a blower wand you put on your compressor hose. It's about 2.5 or 3 feet long with a 45 degree bent in the end. You can put that into the opening on the passenger side between the AC heat exchanger and the radiator. Also, you can puta piece of PVC on the end of a hose with an adapter and slide it in there. For the air hose, I got the idea from how we cleaned the "V" packs on an M1A1 Abrahms during desert operations. Works great!
I did all of your mods on my 89 and it works perfect..! Mine runs 180 all the time now unless I really lean on it and then it rises up a little but as soon as I slow down a bit it comes right back down to 180...!!
Is there an easy way to DIY change the solid transmission lines on a 350 TPI 1985 Corvette? I damaged one line so severely that I decided to replace it with braided steel lines. The car ran hot and blew a hole in the plastic trans cooler side of the stock radiator. I changed the thermostat and I have a larger capacity radiator. I'm a fan of ( if it ain't Broken don't fix it) and appreciate your video, look forward to more tips. Thanks.
Great idea …. The instructions were very confusing…. Redo the video and spend more time showing the wires and connections, just to make it more clear for those of us not mechanically inclined. Thanks
As a professional Automotive Technician; Please do not "mod" or "hack" your vehicles to achieve normal engine operating temperature. An engine running hot is an engine also telling you something is not right. It could be something as simple as an air pocket. You have no idea how much hotter an engine will run if there is an air pocket in the pressurized and sealed cooling system. In regards to a C4 Corvette, 230°F is normal as per the service manual (second fan comes on at this temp, first fan comes on at 225°F). These engines run hot but they were designed to run this way for very specific reasons. The reason these engines run hotter than other engines is because of the reverse cooling, meaning that the coolant first flows to the cylinder heads then onto the engine block while the thermostat is open. These Gen II LT1s are rather unique in a few ways, the hotter operating temperature is one of those.
Just dump some water wetter booster in hehe prob safer then constant fan mod unless you race in stop and go LA traffic….my 1989 hits the fsm benchmark temps to a T but I do my own fluids after a good flush I dropped 10 degrees but I get the frustration it is anxiety times 1000.
My fans come on with ac heater but will not come one even as the car reads close to the danger zone. They run slow and high fine so the work good. What is causing them to not turn on? I replaced the water pump sensor and it reads on the digital gauge accurate. I cnt figure out whats wrong. HELP ANY PLEASE THANKS 1995 lt1
Yes, it works great and did help a lot. I also put an all aluminum radiator in it after this and now it really stays cool. Usually 175-185 degrees on the really hot days now.
That oil pressure is kinda sketchy, might just need a sensor. Heck I drove my truck around forever with low op at hot idle, but it come up to 40 or so driving. Heck you might just need an oil change with some 10/40.
Yes, and both fans are controlled by ECM. However, you can install a low temp kit which comes with a sensor you can install to the driver side and then splice it to the original wiring. This will override the ECM settings. And the sensor on passenger side is for the gauge.
@@KlineGeek Search ZIP: 84-91 Low Temperature Cooling Fan Kit. Ecklers: 1984-1995 Corvette Low Temperature Cooling Fan Kit 185º. And I am quite sure all of the Vette parts houses have similar kits. I bought mine 20+ years ago from Mid America Motorworks.
FOUR SEASONS 35946 Radiator Fan Switch. Different connector. Turns on 212F. Off 203F. Someone in comments recommended this one Hypertech sold & is for an 87 Buick Regal Turbo. May have too call Four Seasons or WELLS to get part# for lower temp switch.
Hello, thanks a bunch for all that info. Got my fans working excellent. Question, at the 633 mark you started the front fan. What did you touch with that wire to start the fan. you didn't show that. Was it the positive on the battery, or was it grounding that wire? Thanks again.
The reason why they have it running hot as the burner fumes off on a Cadillac converters you're not running your Cadillac converters and you can run it at 195 185
Change your thermostat to you want to run core change of thermostat car runs like or lot better I unhooked the world line going for the throttle body and it runs better too let's run heat for the throttle body don't make any sense it's alright for wintertime summertime NOCO
i made mine to run the main fan whenever the engine is running, made all the difference in the world. no more over heating or boiling over - runs at about 179-185 on a very hot summer day now
How did you do that? Mine runs 205-230 on a hot day
Pls tell us how you did it bro 🙏🏼
The stock fan wasn’t made to run the entire time the engine does. You’ll be buying an upgrade fan soon
@@izayyahh2144zip corvette sells the thermostats and the temperature sensor with wiring cheap. But ones that match each other.
The corvette was designed to run hot, it’s a reverse flow so coolant to heads first then the block. Fan won’t even kick on until 200-220. Perfectly normal
I upgraded to a wild Stroker engine and found my engine racing to 250 degrees in traffic. Here was my solution on my 87: new fan relays, fresh grounding, new front air dams, 160 degree Tstat, 3 core champion radiator, hood vents, and tuning the FiTech fans to turns on and off between 165 and 180, slighly staggered. Now in 100 degrees with a/c it will hold at 170 cruising and 190 in park. I consider anything over 200 too much. Txs for the vid, very good for stock engines.
If you run Evans waterless coolant, these engines will probably respond well & its efficient, you can run a 0 psi cap & aggressive ignition timing. 0 psi cooling system reduces a lot of stress on the cooling system components.
Evans coolant has been proven benefits for years & on the race circuits. In fact, Jack Evans was the inventor of the LT1 reverse cooling system for GM & there was a long patent lawsuit....
Thank you so much John this works for my 88 Corvette. I’ve been driving it stop and go traffic downtown on the freeway and lol things keep going on at 185 and turn off at 173. My car used to go up to 230 and I hated the heat like smell.
I spliced in a toggle switch so I can turn the fans on at any temp
Good deal, T.J.! Your son, is going to LOVE it! I, used to put a 160 degree thermostat, in all my hottish carbureted stuff.😀 I thought, I was doing something. I, know fuel injected stuff, is different.
Nicely done. If it works it ain’t wrong. Just a side note. The temp gauge sensor is in the thermostat crossover and your new fan switch is in the cylinder head where it will always be hotter so most likely your fans will not shut off because it will not get down to 175 with a 180 thermostat. Check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, 20 psi is the lower limit.
Good point! Might get a higher temp one
Very smart to go with the 180 t
At that temp the system gos into what’s called closed loop on these models and it’s important that it does .
For those that don’t know what that is it would be in your best interest to check that out, open and closed loop …..
The dash looks like a speak-n-spell from the 80s, i like it.
Cool thanks John (no pun intended) 😁 Next time I take my dad's C4 for a cruise to get some new NEW BALANCE kicks I'll do this for him and maybe he won't forget my next birthday 🤣🤣🤣 NB factory and outlet is in our town,,, Skowhegan Maine.
UPDATE: Called and talked to him about it. I'm an idiot his is a 1990 LT5 engine ZR-1 model. And been a subscriber for awhile John, Always Good content. 💪🏼
If you run Evans waterless coolant, these engines will probably respond well & its efficient, you can run a 0 psi cap & aggressive ignition timing. 0 psi cooling system reduces a lot of stress on the cooling system components.
Evans coolant has been proven benefits for years & on the race circuits. In fact, Jack Evans was the inventor of the LT1 reverse cooling system for GM & there was a long patent lawsuit....
I plan on someday switching my 87 over, whenever i get it running since its been in storage for many years due to health problems & life crisis.
Hey do you happen to have a part number or a direct web link for the coolant temperature sensor? That would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
there also used to be a cold air intake kit that would draw cool air from the front liscense plate, it had a panel to replace the stock one. that will help keep temps down too. had a buddy that used to street race his vette, he had that setup itvwas nice👍
Super common on c4’s to have debris and leaves stuck in the condenser and radiator to the point they overheat sitting and are ok moving. You have to remove a ton of stuff to clean it out! Trying to hose it out without disassembling won’t work either
Great point!
When I bought my 1994 Vette I had cooling issues (although I didn't realize at the time how hot the C4's are designed to run). Close inspection revealed exactly what you said: a bunch of leaves and debris stuck between the condenser and the radiator (maybe an inch of space between them), right in front of the auxiliary fan. C4's suck up leaves like a Hoover vacuum. It's best to remove [a ton of stuff!] to clean it out properly; I was able to fashion a toothbrush on a long narrow wooden stick and VERY GENTLY cleaned the fins (barely touching, as I know they are extremely delicate). That solved my cooling issue.
Oh, and don't try using compressed air -- that will bend the fins up faster than you could do it manually.
I disagree only because I've had to do this stuff before. You can use an air wand from HD or HF to get you started. Then you can put a piece of PVC on the end of a garden hose using various adapters. Drill holes and you can gently spray water in there. It works great.
I've had 2 C4's and had a lot of fun in them.
It’s super fun to drive!
Had not have????
Great job T John! Nice hot rod!🤩🤩🤩🤩
The nice thing about these cars is when you remove the catalytic converters (3) and install cheap used aftermarket exhaust pipes (I found a set of Hooker 2-1/4 for $200) plus a H or X pipe the car will pickup .2 in the 1/4mile and gain a few mpg . I also ended up changing from a 275 rear tire to a 285 just to gain a few mm width which also translates to a mm or two in height. After installing a little "tweaked" factory torque converter THE GAIN WAS .68 in the 1/4 mile. No engine mods and better fuel economy. No tuning . I miss that old car.
Nice! That’s big improvements!
Still time to get another
Nice job John. That instrument gauge is totally 1980’s. Looks like the designers took it straight from KITT. 🤣
You need it on at 205 and off at 195.
Man I love your builds. Learn a lot. Thsnks
Glad you like them!
Its crazy how the 87 C4 is different....Mine only has one fan and my sensor is on the rear passenger side of the engine.
Thanks for the video!
My 86 has a fan in the front which I thought was burned out and the Rad fan I use a 210F.deg.
switch isolated. She'll hold 220 at stops but needs air when romping around town. Mine still has its original front fan but not used (now I know) Also she's female but still gets up goes when needed.
She'a a Looker not a runner these days and a very fun car to have. Even my manual states something about these motors like to run hot but I rather not.
I used to race those cars in the early 90s we had to put a Hypertec chip in them and a A1 160° Thermo switch, then then we put underdrive pulleys the crossfire vette went 1.38 60 ft time 14.29 quarter stock 👍 those cars are a lot of fun Top speed 145mph
Lmao, you did not go 1.38 60ft.
So did I. Easy 13.5 sec car. Today mine is a 10 sec racer. Sooo much fun because most think C4 are slow.
Good video! I was wondering? if you made a different ground other than the one on the radiator, for the cooling fan?
I think the fan On/Off temps should be set higher than thermostat rating so the thermostat stays open & ecm goes into closed loop.
So for a 180f thermostat, a 195F/210F should be used, but best to ask cooling experts like Flex-A-Light who sells adjustable fan switches on how they recommend adjusting fan temps to thermostat. Also, I'd test these switches on the stove in hot water & a calibrated thermometer & ohm meter to be sure those Chinese switches are accurate to specs.
L98's and LT1's always had low oil pressure. I had a showroom new '96 Z28 and my best friend had a '92 Z28 with an l98 and they both had low oil pressure. Yes, he had the cooler car so I bought one just like his years later.. 😂
Is it normal for the lt1 to have low oil pressure ? My 96 vette is normally around he 20s
I gotta 95 vette.oil pressure when warm at idle is around 20 or a bit less.i thought it was low too but after some research gm manual said 7 to 8 psi per rpm.been driving this car 2 and a half years.bought it with 112000 miles has 133000 now. still running strong.
Rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 at operating temperature so whatever the tach says add two zeros while you’re driving matches or is close enough, you’re good
Good stuff working with your son!
The best!
If you take the coolant hoses off the throttle body and loop them it will run a .10 quicker.
Worth doing? Yes! But a tenth? Not in my experience. Makes hardly any difference at all in ET but it always made me feel better to do it..
Cutting a ram air hole where the front license plate goes was the coolest cold air intake mod back then!
I did that too
They were designed to run hot for emissions purposes.
It's officially a turbo John car now!
That dash is legit
This will work…but… the car is running hot because there’s debris blocking airflow through the radiator. You can fix that by pulling the radiator out and spraying it out. Then the car will cool like normal.
There is much easier way than pulling the whole radiator out which is a pain. Harbor Freight or Home Depot, etc., has a blower wand you put on your compressor hose. It's about 2.5 or 3 feet long with a 45 degree bent in the end. You can put that into the opening on the passenger side between the AC heat exchanger and the radiator. Also, you can puta piece of PVC on the end of a hose with an adapter and slide it in there.
For the air hose, I got the idea from how we cleaned the "V" packs on an M1A1 Abrahms during desert operations. Works great!
I did all of your mods on my 89 and it works perfect..! Mine runs 180 all the time now unless I really lean on it and then it rises up a little but as soon as I slow down a bit it comes right back down to 180...!!
What are all the mods?
Yeah what are your mods? And where did u get them from?
You're basically always running your engine cold. Don't do that unless you want premature wear. At most put a 200 degree switch, 180 is way too much.
@@ILoveTinfoilHats Well...Now that the weather has heated up it runs at 200 to 210
Always scary when John talks wiring !!!! Lol
Is there an easy way to DIY change the solid transmission lines on a 350 TPI 1985 Corvette? I damaged one line so severely that I decided to replace it with braided steel lines. The car ran hot and blew a hole in the plastic trans cooler side of the stock radiator. I changed the thermostat and I have a larger capacity radiator. I'm a fan of ( if it ain't Broken don't fix it) and appreciate your video, look forward to more tips. Thanks.
I don't know what weight oil your running but I would try a higher viscosity and see if it helps the pressure before rebuilding engine worth a try.
Yes, I changed it to 20w50 and it’s a little better hot.
Just done this today and worked perfectly. Thanks for the video.
I did this. Only problem i had was cooling fan motors didn't last long as they run almost all the time. But cool ,,,,is cool 😎
Yep
Great idea …. The instructions were very confusing…. Redo the video and spend more time showing the wires and connections, just to make it more clear for those of us not mechanically inclined.
Thanks
As a professional Automotive Technician; Please do not "mod" or "hack" your vehicles to achieve normal engine operating temperature. An engine running hot is an engine also telling you something is not right. It could be something as simple as an air pocket. You have no idea how much hotter an engine will run if there is an air pocket in the pressurized and sealed cooling system. In regards to a C4 Corvette, 230°F is normal as per the service manual (second fan comes on at this temp, first fan comes on at 225°F). These engines run hot but they were designed to run this way for very specific reasons. The reason these engines run hotter than other engines is because of the reverse cooling, meaning that the coolant first flows to the cylinder heads then onto the engine block while the thermostat is open. These Gen II LT1s are rather unique in a few ways, the hotter operating temperature is one of those.
wheres the steering wheel cover from, John? Love the videos btw!
👀
Will you add a link for buying this part?
You can buy a fan switch for an 86-87 3.8 Turbo Buick Regal. That one turns on at 213, off at 203. It's the one Hypertech used to sell.
NEXT, NOW WHAT TEMP T-STAT DO U USE/RECCMEND WITH THIS SWITCH??
@EHUE-kf4ey Run the stock thermostat with that switch.
FOUR SEASONS 35946 Radiator Fan Switch.
Different connector.
What is the actual name of the sensor he installed
LS swap time. That looks like a good back of the track canidate.
the question now is can the alternator handle those fans running at the same time
The auxiliary one is puzzy ass . probably only draws 5-9amps
@@mariocooldude9092 mine is handling it just fine
That corvette looks clean TJ , whats its name??? I would call it white boy Rick lol.
Just dump some water wetter booster in hehe prob safer then constant fan mod unless you race in stop and go LA traffic….my 1989 hits the fsm benchmark temps to a T but I do my own fluids after a good flush I dropped 10 degrees but I get the frustration it is anxiety times 1000.
That earl pressure is scary
Yes but it's also normal l98 pressure
I had 1 with 10lbs at idle never went over 30psi under acceleration, still running today
Nice!
Do a hard pull in the vette and run some passes in it
At least you bought a Chevy!!!!!!!!!! Funny how primitive those gauges look. Wow.
Thank you very much. Your video is very useful.
You are welcome!
My fans come on with ac heater but will not come one even as the car reads close to the danger zone. They run slow and high fine so the work good. What is causing them to not turn on? I replaced the water pump sensor and it reads on the digital gauge accurate. I cnt figure out whats wrong. HELP ANY PLEASE THANKS 1995 lt1
Is it still working as planned.
Yes, it works great and did help a lot. I also put an all aluminum radiator in it after this and now it really stays cool. Usually 175-185 degrees on the really hot days now.
That oil pressure is kinda sketchy, might just need a sensor. Heck I drove my truck around forever with low op at hot idle, but it come up to 40 or so driving. Heck you might just need an oil change with some 10/40.
Input 20w50 in it, it helped a little
Just wondering if your thermostat is rated higher are you going to overheat the block????
Probably what will happen is since the sensor for the fan is lower than the thermostat the fans will run all the time and burn the fans up🤯
@@attitudeadjusted9027hahaha 😂no it won't
Hey John, if I called you Dad, will you get me one?...... Dad! ✌️😂
😂
1990 and 1991 does not have the temp switch on the driver side.
Yes, and both fans are controlled by ECM. However, you can install a low temp kit which comes with a sensor you can install to the driver side and then splice it to the original wiring. This will override the ECM settings.
And the sensor on passenger side is for the gauge.
@@Polydeukes68 I have a '90. Can you point me to the low-temp kit?
@@KlineGeek Search ZIP: 84-91 Low Temperature Cooling Fan Kit. Ecklers: 1984-1995 Corvette Low Temperature Cooling Fan Kit 185º. And I am quite sure all of the Vette parts houses have similar kits. I bought mine 20+ years ago from Mid America Motorworks.
Do you have the Amazon link for that?
FOUR SEASONS 35946 Radiator Fan Switch.
Different connector. Turns on 212F. Off 203F. Someone in comments recommended this one Hypertech sold & is for an 87 Buick Regal Turbo. May have too call Four Seasons or WELLS to get part# for lower temp switch.
Chinese numbers? What?? LOL !!! Three steps towards the door. Leave that to you. Shocking !👍🤙👍🤙
? I don’t understand!
Did you order a pair of new balance 👟 to drive this car
😂
New balance kicks, Raybans and a mullet.
Why not just change radiator to the New aluminum ones 🤔
Hey Tj a vet nice
Thanks
😎
Nice work
Did you say murdor? I think you meant to say motor.
It's not broken so don't fix it.
Oh shut up
@pilotgeorge2000 The engines were designed to run hot. There is nothing to fix. It's a retarded video.
Fix your timing problem solve.
Hello, thanks a bunch for all that info. Got my fans working excellent. Question, at the 633 mark you started the front fan. What did you touch with that wire to start the fan. you didn't show that. Was it the positive on the battery, or was it grounding that wire? Thanks again.
I believe it was the grounding wire....I was wondering are both fans running at the same time?
The reason why they have it running hot as the burner fumes off on a Cadillac converters you're not running your Cadillac converters and you can run it at 195 185
Change your thermostat to you want to run core change of thermostat car runs like or lot better I unhooked the world line going for the throttle body and it runs better too let's run heat for the throttle body don't make any sense it's alright for wintertime summertime NOCO