Thank you so much for all the great videos Josh! Greatly appreciate all the knowledge you cram into them! So I have been researching for weeks on doing a remote oil cooler install since my factory oil cooler on my 2004 F350 6.0 is completely plugged (40° delta). I flushed it with restore & restore plus, even backflushing the oil cooler with an OTC blast vac, unfortunately delta didn't improve. So going with a DIY setup because $2k for a name brand system that comes ready to bolt up is just absurd to me, not to mention the air cooler is made in china. Your DIY is the best looking design I've seen out of all the DIY setups. So to go with the cleanest looking setup I just purchased a used complete E350 oil cooler housing that includes the fuel filter housing all the way down to the oil cooler. I like this way so much better because it eliminates the F style oil housing and allows the oil supply line location further away from the turbo. Well today after stalking your youtube videos again LOL I ran across your other video "6.0 powerstroke oil bypass review" that you did back in June. I seen you mentioned the E350 fuel lines that hook to the housing/pressure regulator are different/shorter. I was wondering if its just the length that is different and if its possible to just modify my F series lines to fit. Like cutting the ends (banjo/flares) off and using braided ss lines with the F series ends. The reason I ask is because I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible and I just priced some used E350 fuel lines and they'll cost more than the oil cooler housing cost me. On a tight budget because I'll be doing head gaskets, arp studs, egr cooler delete(welded ends), stc/dummys/standpipes when I do this install. If my heads are cracked too badly I planned to get your sweet swedish heads. Wanting to do all the work this summer when it warms up a bit so getting my grocery list off all the parts and best places to buy them. For the air oil cooler, I haven't spotted any deals on used Setrabs yet, but if none pop up I plan to go with a new Derale 15875 40 row with -10AN / 7/8" inlet size and 10" fan. Still researching on a oil thermostat and dual oil filter housing that will allow the EAO98 & EABP110 amsoil filters to mount up. Trying to keep all inlet/outlet sizes at a min of -10 size but keep running into the smaller 1/2" inlets/outlets on the dual filter housings. Thanks again!
I did a backflush to my oil cooler and got back 3 to 10 degrees delta, but you have to make a custom pvc tool to use water and pressure air + the chemicals to remove all the junk from the cooler, it took me a whole afternoon, but it's doable and you don't have to modify anything.
Nice going to have to do this one day. I'm having a few problems first one is my icp usually stays around 580 maybe a few points higher but on a long drive when I come back to a idle it has a small miss to it and the icp is sporadic sometimes up to 600 and down to 560ish 570ish also does it when I turn it off while its warm and crank it back up. Also, learned alot from dieseltech ron he even helped me on Christmas eve one year a really great guy. So your my new go to guy thanks for doing what you do.
I'm slowly stock piling all the parts for this setup. Its awesome to actually see one done instead of planning it out. Thanks for making this video, man. And the others, huge help.
This was a good video, thanks. I also think that you could further improve this modification by porting the "top shelf". I ported the oil outlet, the one on the out side rim of the top shelf. I did this because with the cooler deleted all of the oil is forced to go through the small oil port in the top shelf. The hole was only big enough to fit just the tip of my pinky, it was smaller then a half inch. Then the oil would go to your filter and air to oil cooler then come back through the center of the top shelf. I also ported the center of the top shelf. I did this porting because by deleting the cooler we are forcing all of are oil through our air to cooler, and you always hear people saying that you need big hoses going to the coolers. With the small oil feed passage you could have fire hoses and you would be able to flow enough because of the top shelf restrictions. I will try to post a photo of my ported top shelf.
Getting ready to buy all the parts for this have you came across any Issues since you made this video or something you wish you would’ve done besides using the van style Thank you for making this video you saved me $ 💯🇺🇸💪🏻
Great idea!!!! What was your total cost for this project? Do you by chance sell a kit with oil cooler housing and E-350 filter housing already welded? Do you have a parts list you can share?
Hi hows it going awesome info on that conversion but I was just wondering would it work if u left the oil cooler in the truck I just hate taking the engine apart because of getting contaminats inside I know it make sense to remove it but would it work other wise thks for your videos awesome content thks
So I have a E456 with a 6.0. I have a cracked EGR cooler and plan on going in to do a delete and I've also seen signs of oil in my degas bottle. So I see how using this design works but how do I deal with the factory oil cooler being damaged? Do I remove the original oil cooler and then just let that area fill with oil? If so how do I manage the coolant that's headed that way? I think I'm seeing it now. Remove my van style oil cooler cover, remove oil cooler, replace cover, connect the coolant line in over to the egr out then go online cooler as u have. Old video hoping u still monitor it.
You are wrong about floating around my friend as that is the suction side and is what holds the screen in place.the screen will come out if you blow air into it.
Wow, seems like a pretty involved project. Think I'll just get the upgraded oil cooler, and then install the aftermarket oil and coolant filtration systems.
What would the cost be to do the external oil cooler like that? I think that is a great idea and maybe you could put a parts list together with the part numbers you used.
Hey man I was wondering if you remember what size hydraulic fittings you used on your 10an fittings? I have an lines right now but want to switch to hydraulic lines but can’t seem to find the chart to show what size fittings to get. Thanks!
josh, I enjoy washing your videos, thanks for taking the time. I also want to built this set up do you have the e-350 top part that you can sale to me I will be waiting for your response, thanks
@@rcarpenter9508 The biggest problem with this theory is the screen staying in place, expansion/contraction and nothing holding down on the hpop screen and I would about bet its going to go floating about.
Question about the filters used. The smaller is a ea098 and that is a bypass filter right? What is the number on the taller filter? Has anyone tried a Baldwin instead? Thanks.
Great idea I had a few questions tho I have a bdp oil cooler set up missing the block so Im gonna build my own set up. My first question is how much did it run u to get all that welded and I was ond is will that oil screen be ok and stay in place with nothing pushing on it?
The factory plastic screen is usually melted by bad cooler to start with so the aftermarket metal replacement is the best option and is held down by it's own weight and oil pressure as the entire valley is full as soon as oil flow is started but could be locked in by a pair of short bolts drilled and tapped to just contact the ends of the screen with the edge of the bolt-head or washer for peace of mind. I am doing this to my "$500 cuz I can't fix it" Facebook bought F250 6.0 this week and will definitely be using hold down bolts for my hpop oil screen as I do a lot of off-road bumpy driving and don't want to have the worry of it moving and costing me a new hpop and/or turbo
I want to do a hybrid of this using the E350 oil adapter, hard lines, and external oil filters, but keep the stock oil cooler (mine is new)... other than plugging the drain port in the oil filter housing on the base, would this work? I will fab a bracket to use the stock F250 (2005) secondary fuel filter and fuel lines, versus an E350 fuel filter housing and lines.
if you want to keep the oil cooler you can do that and still run external filters like i did in the video. make sure you use at least 5/8" lines and make sure your filter has 1" threads like the filters im using.. dont use anything smaller.
If you are using a stock e350 oil filter housing, do you leave the check valve and the bypass valve in the housing or do you remove them, and weld the drain back hole up.
the e350 check valve and bypass valve is in the oil filter housing under the truck and not in the oil cooler housing and if you use the e350 top shell the drain back hole doesn't exist.
That bypass filter surly is not in line right? I didn't see it detailed in your diagram but the bypass is tapped off the main line and fed back in separately otherwise it would starve the engine for oil at high rpm correct??
Hi, where did you get the oil bypass thermostat and the dual oil filter housing. Are you using an tube oil cooler or a plate style cooler? Thanks for your time
I've done the bypass oil cooler using a van style filter housing, and tigged up the holes in the cooler housing. After I got the system bleed and full of oil and coolant. I drove it about 5 miles and now I have water in oil and oil in the coolant. I pulled the oil pan off and did a pressure test on the coolant system.It was leaking ( it looks like the coolant is coming from the front water pump cover and ruuning in the oil pan.) I remover the front cover, water pump and oil pump. I can't find anything wrong. the housing isn't worn much at all where the pumps sit. do you have any ideas? Thanks Tracy
what is the new delta difference in temp between the oil and the engine coolant with the new air-to-air cooling versus the stock set up of say 6 to 7 degrees?
it takes long for the oil to get up to 180 degrees. and if engine temps gets up to 190, the oil is about the same. once the fan kicks on the oil cooler it cools the oil down immediately. with towing the oil stays about 10 degrees of the water. when not towing oil is usually cooler by 10 degrees.
the video I will be posting soon will show the oil up to 20 degrees and more this is with out a fan. truck will high idle on an 80 degree day all bull shit a side.when you guys finally see this video you will be impressed to say the least at how I've achieved these numbers.
Hello Dr, I am going to use your oil cooler idea on my 06 f350 rebuild, thanks!. I have a old van motor also 06 E350 and will use parts from that but I want to make the oil filters where I can easily change them so I am going to keep the van filter housing and use regular filters. Any problem in doing this? I also noticed that the van filter has what looks like a back flow valve? it was mounted below the engine, maybe I'm seeing something else?
thanks for the helpful tip. i have an 05 e350 van so would it be just as easy? and what did you do about the oil cooler? you said keep the screen on but do I completely remove the cooler?
I'm surprised no one has caught this and has not said anything or they have and just letting him look like he does not know what he is doing.the way he has this hooked up he has filtered oil mixing with non filtered oil. when you put the top plate on there is no oil coming out of that bigger hole. when the oil comes back in the filtered oil is dispersing through that little hole which is a bypass with that removed you are mixing filtered oil with non filtered oil. the oil spills over into the biggest hole which feeds the turbo,hpop res and ot,op,sensors and the mains,rods,cam. block off the littlest hole so your not mixing clean oil with dirty oil and your oil will last a lot longer.
I was thinking you're wrong, but think again, there are two points needed to be made here, and you have a good point. 1. He has the oil flow direction reversed. 2. The holes around the outside (1 drain, 1 by pass and 1 supply) needs to be filled up, not open up. For the e350, they need to be open up. The reason is that for Fx50, unless you put a "fake filter that block oil going between them", R Carpenter is correct. They mix up inside the filter housing. There's another design that hook an outlet into those holes and return in the middle hole, making them like the van style.
I know these trucks extremely well.if you use the van style a passage can be modified to make it come out in Stock location. the reason his system is working is because he has that dirty oil feeding directly "the bypass hole" feeding directly to the hpo res and mains,rods,cam exc. you plug that little hole up and watch what happens his system will not work GUARANTEE YOU THAT.the way the stock system is designed is that if the lpop bypass opens "front cover" all oil does is circulate around and around it kills the flow and volume instantly don't believe me try it.the main supply line going to the filter can not have anymore than 70 psi or the bypass starts to open
remember if the bypass opens the volume goes away.when we start our trucks on really cold mornings the oil pressure will be as high as 80 psi till it warms up.the reason is because the oil is thicker "viscosity " as the truck warms up the oil becomes thinner and loses some pressure therefore bringing the volume back if all things are good and fuel exc is diluting the oil resulting in other issues. I will be posting a video very soon showing people how to save a lot of money or I can build interesting parties one. I will also make other videos showing how to get free hp and how to make your truck run a lot cooler..when you do these mods you will notice instantly your truck is quiter and has a little more power.
sry forgot to also say the van style has a bypass also and opens up same as the filter housing style set up when the oil cooler becomes clogged.you can modify a passage to make getting to your connections easier.when you put a fitting where this guy has one it makes it very hard to get to the fitting. one last thing it takes -12 to flow 18 gpm this is the flow of the 6.0 and the way he has his bypass 2 micron filter is severely killing the flow.he should branch off the main line with a "smaller line" to really clean that oil up with the 2 micron bypass filter.if he was to take that bypass filter line off he would see something is definitely wrong. Remember what that sensor does is measure pressure and we get pressure confused with volume we think if we have pressure everything is good "you are in for a rude awaking for sure". take that pressure sensor and put it at the manifold where it should be and you will see what I'm talking about.the pressure at the manifold will drop as the truck warms up this means the pressure will drop at the manifold and guess what that means for this system death. one important thing to remember you do not want anything above 70 psi or it cracks open the lpop bypass killing the flow.if you have 70 psi going out you need 70 psi coming to keep that bypass closed any excess pressure opens that bypass and oil circulates around and around in the front cover.you will get some oil but not what you need and it will slowly fry your motor. I have said it but I will say it again the reason this is working for him is because he has that oil feeding directly into the hpo res which is dirty oil.
better rethink and look again lol.he opened up the two holes but only one is feeding directly into the hpo res. along with what is being filtered and dumped in this I'd why this system works all I can say is plug that bypass hole up and watch what happens plus he has his bypass filter in line which is completely wrong and is killing the flow.he should branch off the main supply line with a smaller line and his oil would be a lot cleaner as a little oil at a time would be filtered down to 2 micron.
@@rcarpenter9508it goes two directions...one direction goes to the hpop after the hpop where does it go....thats right back to the pan....ok now where does the other direction go....thats right it feeds the rest of the motor like crank cam oilers lifters.....now if you know anything you'd know that if he was feeding straight through a bypass filter the motor wouldnt last long obviously his remote oil filter block is the correct dual filter bypass block that internally branches the to the bypass...furthermore if you knew anything else you'd know that the van top housing like he uses has no drain back hole
How much oil did you use in total? Thanks to your diy method I was able to get my truck running. I noticed the oil in the high pressure rail seems kind of foamy
R Carpender, Dr.'s video get's a little confusing at first because he switches what he's talking about between using the f350 stock or e350 oil set up. I am wanting to use a 06 e350 oil set up, including the filter housing (where I can access it easier-not under the truck). I will tap a bypass filter off that line somewhere. Both the top housing and the lower filter housing has what appears to be those check valves in place. I am very interested in the video your are going to make. Im trying to understand what your saying, could you take some still shots from photos on line and mark it- delineate in red to show us what your talking about?? I would really appreciate it! Thank you in advance
the way you explained it is wrong and surprised no one has caught it.a factory oil cooler system has the oil entering where those two valves you took out.the other little hole associated with the main feed valve is a bypass and opens up when the oil cooler becomes clogged.if you have oil entering and dispersing through those two holes you are sending oil back through your system and not entering the motor. those two valves you took out you are only getting the oil from that little hole not the big hole where it normally comes in. if you have a tube separating that from filtered and non filtered oil.
Oh and further more the reason why your system works is because you have filtered and non filtered oil mixing and going straight in that big hole which feeds the turbo and the hpop res.YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT AT ITS FULL POTENTIAL I would be glad to talk it over with you and I can show you a way to simplify the system even more and filter 100% of the oil on the very first pass,you think your truck runs good now watch how it runs with just a few simple changes.
He did say he has had it for years with no problems. Why not make a video and show us all how to improve it or ...are you really a "Bulletproof" employee??
Thank you so much for all the great videos Josh! Greatly appreciate all the knowledge you cram into them! So I have been researching for weeks on doing a remote oil cooler install since my factory oil cooler on my 2004 F350 6.0 is completely plugged (40° delta). I flushed it with restore & restore plus, even backflushing the oil cooler with an OTC blast vac, unfortunately delta didn't improve. So going with a DIY setup because $2k for a name brand system that comes ready to bolt up is just absurd to me, not to mention the air cooler is made in china. Your DIY is the best looking design I've seen out of all the DIY setups. So to go with the cleanest looking setup I just purchased a used complete E350 oil cooler housing that includes the fuel filter housing all the way down to the oil cooler. I like this way so much better because it eliminates the F style oil housing and allows the oil supply line location further away from the turbo. Well today after stalking your youtube videos again LOL I ran across your other video "6.0 powerstroke oil bypass review" that you did back in June. I seen you mentioned the E350 fuel lines that hook to the housing/pressure regulator are different/shorter. I was wondering if its just the length that is different and if its possible to just modify my F series lines to fit. Like cutting the ends (banjo/flares) off and using braided ss lines with the F series ends. The reason I ask is because I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible and I just priced some used E350 fuel lines and they'll cost more than the oil cooler housing cost me. On a tight budget because I'll be doing head gaskets, arp studs, egr cooler delete(welded ends), stc/dummys/standpipes when I do this install. If my heads are cracked too badly I planned to get your sweet swedish heads. Wanting to do all the work this summer when it warms up a bit so getting my grocery list off all the parts and best places to buy them. For the air oil cooler, I haven't spotted any deals on used Setrabs yet, but if none pop up I plan to go with a new Derale 15875 40 row with -10AN / 7/8" inlet size and 10" fan. Still researching on a oil thermostat and dual oil filter housing that will allow the EAO98 & EABP110 amsoil filters to mount up. Trying to keep all inlet/outlet sizes at a min of -10 size but keep running into the smaller 1/2" inlets/outlets on the dual filter housings. Thanks again!
I did a backflush to my oil cooler and got back 3 to 10 degrees delta, but you have to make a custom pvc tool to use water and pressure air + the chemicals to remove all the junk from the cooler, it took me a whole afternoon, but it's doable and you don't have to modify anything.
Why haven't I seen this video before!? Pure genius!
Nice going to have to do this one day. I'm having a few problems first one is my icp usually stays around 580 maybe a few points higher but on a long drive when I come back to a idle it has a small miss to it and the icp is sporadic sometimes up to 600 and down to 560ish 570ish also does it when I turn it off while its warm and crank it back up. Also, learned alot from dieseltech ron he even helped me on Christmas eve one year a really great guy. So your my new go to guy thanks for doing what you do.
Did you have a chance to read my ?
Your ipr screen is clogged or cracked meaning IPR is stuck open do to debris jamming it that made it threw the cracked screen. That's a fact
I'm slowly stock piling all the parts for this setup. Its awesome to actually see one done instead of planning it out. Thanks for making this video, man. And the others, huge help.
This was a good video, thanks. I also think that you could further improve this modification by porting the "top shelf". I ported the oil outlet, the one on the out side rim of the top shelf. I did this because with the cooler deleted all of the oil is forced to go through the small oil port in the top shelf. The hole was only big enough to fit just the tip of my pinky, it was smaller then a half inch. Then the oil would go to your filter and air to oil cooler then come back through the center of the top shelf. I also ported the center of the top shelf. I did this porting because by deleting the cooler we are forcing all of are oil through our air to cooler, and you always hear people saying that you need big hoses going to the coolers. With the small oil feed passage you could have fire hoses and you would be able to flow enough because of the top shelf restrictions. I will try to post a photo of my ported top shelf.
Could you not just bolt the van parts on and run BOTH coolers?
Incredibly well thought out and explained, wish you were closer to Houston
Did the van style set up and it works great 👍👍👍
there's gotta be an easier way. is there no where else you can tap in to and just plumb an air to oil heat exchanger?
I did this... but. No oil pressure for 1 minute after it sits for awhile ! Anyone have a idea why it’s draining back? Please help. Thanks
1:30 drain back valve?
or 7:25
Getting ready to buy all the parts for this have you came across any Issues since you made this video or something you wish you would’ve done besides using the van style
Thank you for making this video you saved me $ 💯🇺🇸💪🏻
What are the EOT and ECT when towing with this setup
does this method block the coolant from reaching the egr cooler? also at 2:35 it looks like the holes wont line up properly
Great idea!!!! What was your total cost for this project? Do you by chance sell a kit with oil cooler housing and E-350 filter housing already welded? Do you have a parts list you can share?
I know this was done 7 years ago but, does it work, because I'm thinking of doing it
What size of cooler are you using? And is the brand of the filter mount? thank you and good work..
Hi hows it going awesome info on that conversion but I was just wondering would it work if u left the oil cooler in the truck I just hate taking the engine apart because of getting contaminats inside I know it make sense to remove it but would it work other wise thks for your videos awesome content thks
What size cooler did you use? I have been working on trying to get mine on my 03. Have everything except a cooler not sure what size I should run.
So I have a E456 with a 6.0. I have a cracked EGR cooler and plan on going in to do a delete and I've also seen signs of oil in my degas bottle. So I see how using this design works but how do I deal with the factory oil cooler being damaged? Do I remove the original oil cooler and then just let that area fill with oil? If so how do I manage the coolant that's headed that way? I think I'm seeing it now. Remove my van style oil cooler cover, remove oil cooler, replace cover, connect the coolant line in over to the egr out then go online cooler as u have. Old video hoping u still monitor it.
Interesting. Can we use the van housing to create water to oil cooling, instead of air to oil but relocate the oil cooler from the valley?
Like the idea but I see a lot of ways for failure in the future.
Why would one want to to delete the oil cooler. Just asking because we are looking to buy one that was already deleted.
With the coolant passages blocked, would i be right in assuming i need to delete my egr cooler since it will no longer get coolant?
Can you send me all the part numbers I'm really interested in this set up. I've been threw 7 coolers
You are wrong about floating around my friend as that is the suction side and is what holds the screen in place.the screen will come out if you blow air into it.
Wow, seems like a pretty involved project. Think I'll just get the upgraded oil cooler, and then install the aftermarket oil and coolant filtration systems.
the oil cooler holds the screen in place. what holds it in place if you dont have one
Nice Job! please post a parts list and prices if you still have them
What would the cost be to do the external oil cooler like that? I think that is a great idea and maybe you could put a parts list together with the part numbers you used.
Hey man I was wondering if you remember what size hydraulic fittings you used on your 10an fittings? I have an lines right now but want to switch to hydraulic lines but can’t seem to find the chart to show what size fittings to get.
Thanks!
The AN number is how many 16ths of an inch. So -10 is 10/16" aka 5/8". Jic hydraulic fittings fit AN fittings.
Exactly what filters are you using? Can you put the part numbers
josh, I enjoy washing your videos, thanks for taking the time. I also want to built this set up do you have the
e-350 top part that you can sale to me I will be waiting for your response, thanks
my apology I should say Watching your videos
how does the hpop screen stay in place?
the hpo res is the suction side of the high pressure side.the screen is kept down by suction basically .
@@rcarpenter9508 The biggest problem with this theory is the screen staying in place, expansion/contraction and nothing holding down on the hpop screen and I would about bet its going to go floating about.
Where do you get the thermostat bypass
Fuel lines if you the e350 top what did you do to get them back in place
Nice kit! I've been looking to build one myself! Any updates on how it is doing?
Question about the filters used. The smaller is a ea098 and that is a bypass filter right? What is the number on the taller filter? Has anyone tried a Baldwin instead? Thanks.
The oil pressure test port on that housing isn't 12x1.5. mine is bigger its either 14x1.5 or 9/16x 18 thread. I bought the 12x1.5.It falls in the hole
Hi, I'm getting ready to do mine. Did you solve your problem?
Great idea I had a few questions tho I have a bdp oil cooler set up missing the block so Im gonna build my own set up. My first question is how much did it run u to get all that welded and I was
ond is will that oil screen be ok
and stay in place with nothing pushing on it?
The factory plastic screen is usually melted by bad cooler to start with so the aftermarket metal replacement is the best option and is held down by it's own weight and oil pressure as the entire valley is full as soon as oil flow is started but could be locked in by a pair of short bolts drilled and tapped to just contact the ends of the screen with the edge of the bolt-head or washer for peace of mind. I am doing this to my "$500 cuz I can't fix it" Facebook bought F250 6.0 this week and will definitely be using hold down bolts for my hpop oil screen as I do a lot of off-road bumpy driving and don't want to have the worry of it moving and costing me a new hpop and/or turbo
What size is the oil filter base because the eao98 says it is a 1 16 thread and the base say 3/4 16
hi how do you block the cooland on the intake to keep it from the oil cooler housing
Awesome!
Great video, I would be interested if you would build the kit and sell it,
I want to do a hybrid of this using the E350 oil adapter, hard lines, and external oil filters, but keep the stock oil cooler (mine is new)... other than plugging the drain port in the oil filter housing on the base, would this work? I will fab a bracket to use the stock F250 (2005) secondary fuel filter and fuel lines, versus an E350 fuel filter housing and lines.
if you want to keep the oil cooler you can do that and still run external filters like i did in the video. make sure you use at least 5/8" lines and make sure your filter has 1" threads like the filters im using.. dont use anything smaller.
If you are using a stock e350 oil filter housing, do you leave the check valve and the bypass valve in the housing or do you remove them, and weld the drain back hole up.
the e350 check valve and bypass valve is in the oil filter housing under the truck and not in the oil cooler housing and if you use the e350 top shell the drain back hole doesn't exist.
That bypass filter surly is not in line right? I didn't see it detailed in your diagram but the bypass is tapped off the main line and fed back in separately otherwise it would starve the engine for oil at high rpm correct??
that style of bypass filter setup looks inline but is not. there are valves built inside. AMS Oil sells a kit like this, as well as CAT and Baldwin
How much would you charge to get me one done
Hi, where did you get the oil bypass thermostat and the dual oil filter housing. Are you using an tube oil cooler or a plate style cooler? Thanks for your time
parts are listed in description..
do you know what the van style oil line number is?
What happens with the coolant that would go to the cooler?
the coolant gets blocked from the welded plug..
So is the coolant hole on the intake plugged off
By any chance do you have a parts kit for this ?
Can you link to the bypass filter you used?
I've done the bypass oil cooler using a van style filter housing, and tigged up the holes in the cooler housing. After I got the system bleed and full of oil and coolant. I drove it about 5 miles and now I have water in oil and oil in the coolant. I pulled the oil pan off and did a pressure test on the coolant system.It was leaking ( it looks like the coolant is coming from the front water pump cover and ruuning in the oil pan.) I remover the front cover, water pump and oil pump. I can't find anything wrong. the housing isn't worn much at all where the pumps sit. do you have any ideas? Thanks Tracy
Hello Tracy, I'm getting ready to do this and want to avoid this problem. did you find out what the problem was??
Please help, can you tell me what you found??
what is the new delta difference in temp between the oil and the engine coolant with the new air-to-air cooling versus the stock set up of say 6 to 7 degrees?
it takes long for the oil to get up to 180 degrees. and if engine temps gets up to 190, the oil is about the same. once the fan kicks on the oil cooler it cools the oil down immediately. with towing the oil stays about 10 degrees of the water. when not towing oil is usually cooler by 10 degrees.
the video I will be posting soon will show the oil up to 20 degrees and more this is with out a fan.
truck will high idle on an 80 degree day all bull shit a side.when you guys finally see this video you will be impressed to say the least at how I've achieved these numbers.
Looking forward to the video!
leave your email and I'll show you something you have never seen done on these 6ltrs GUARANTEE IT.
Couldn't you just make a plate to go on top of the manifold to move the oil to the filter and cooler then back?
Ivan Rudnitski how are you going to direct flow of oil from pump to hpop and to the bearings.
@@powerstrokecustomsllc1942 good point I didn't see that before.
Hello Dr, I am going to use your oil cooler idea on my 06 f350 rebuild, thanks!. I have a old van motor also 06 E350 and will use parts from that but I want to make the oil filters where I can easily change them so I am going to keep the van filter housing and use regular filters. Any problem in doing this? I also noticed that the van filter has what looks like a back flow valve? it was mounted below the engine, maybe I'm seeing something else?
thanks for the helpful tip. i have an 05 e350 van so would it be just as easy? and what did you do about the oil cooler? you said keep the screen on but do I completely remove the cooler?
come on?? answer me
Hello, did you leave the cooler in??
Hello, Please help, I'm putting mine back together can you tell me what you did??
I told you to leave a number or an email and I will be glad to help you.
no you take the old cooler out and weld up a few holes. I will be making a video soon and I'll be glad to help anyone who needs it.
The coolant can’t reach the egr cooler is it bad if you have an egr delete?
What r the lengths of the lines u used and the sizes
5/8" I don't know the lengths
6.0Doctor thanks
What r all the end as in 45s 90s or straights
I'm surprised no one has caught this and has not said anything or they have and just letting him look like he does not know what he is doing.the way he has this hooked up he has filtered oil mixing with non filtered oil. when you put the top plate on there is no oil coming out of that bigger hole.
when the oil comes back in the filtered oil is dispersing through that little hole which is a bypass with that removed you are mixing filtered oil with non filtered oil. the oil spills over into the biggest hole which feeds the turbo,hpop res and ot,op,sensors and the mains,rods,cam.
block off the littlest hole so your not mixing clean oil with dirty oil and your oil will last a lot longer.
I was thinking you're wrong, but think again, there are two points needed to be made here, and you have a good point.
1. He has the oil flow direction reversed.
2. The holes around the outside (1 drain, 1 by pass and 1 supply) needs to be filled up, not open up. For the e350, they need to be open up. The reason is that for Fx50, unless you put a "fake filter that block oil going between them", R Carpenter is correct. They mix up inside the filter housing.
There's another design that hook an outlet into those holes and return in the middle hole, making them like the van style.
I know these trucks extremely well.if you use the van style a passage can be modified to make it come out in Stock location.
the reason his system is working is because he has that dirty oil feeding directly "the bypass hole" feeding directly to the hpo res and mains,rods,cam exc.
you plug that little hole up and watch what happens his system will not work GUARANTEE YOU THAT.the way the stock system is designed is that if the lpop bypass opens "front cover" all oil does is circulate around and around it kills the flow and volume instantly don't believe me try it.the main supply line going to the filter can not have anymore than 70 psi or the bypass starts to open
remember if the bypass opens the volume goes away.when we start our trucks on really cold mornings the oil pressure will be as high as 80 psi till it warms up.the reason is because the oil is thicker "viscosity " as the truck warms up the oil becomes thinner and loses some pressure therefore bringing the volume back if all things are good and fuel exc is diluting the oil resulting in other issues.
I will be posting a video very soon showing people how to save a lot of money or I can build interesting parties one.
I will also make other videos showing how to get free hp and how to make your truck run a lot cooler..when you do these mods you will notice instantly your truck is quiter and has a little more power.
sry forgot to also say the van style has a bypass also and opens up same as the filter housing style set up when the oil cooler becomes clogged.you can modify a passage to make getting to your connections easier.when you put a fitting where this guy has one it makes it very hard to get to the fitting.
one last thing it takes -12 to flow 18 gpm this is the flow of the 6.0 and the way he has his bypass 2 micron filter is severely killing the flow.he should branch off the main line with a "smaller line" to really clean that oil up with the 2 micron bypass filter.if he was to take that bypass filter line off he would see something is definitely wrong.
Remember what that sensor does is measure pressure and we get pressure confused with volume we think if we have pressure everything is good "you are in for a rude awaking for sure".
take that pressure sensor and put it at the manifold where it should be and you will see what I'm talking about.the pressure at the manifold will drop as the truck warms up this means the pressure will drop at the manifold and guess what that means for this system death.
one important thing to remember you do not want anything above 70 psi or it cracks open the lpop bypass killing the flow.if you have 70 psi going out you need 70 psi coming to keep that bypass closed any excess pressure opens that bypass and oil circulates around and around in the front cover.you will get some oil but not what you need and it will slowly fry your motor.
I have said it but I will say it again the reason this is working for him is because he has that oil feeding directly into the hpo res which is dirty oil.
@@rcarpenter9508 so could you take everything off of a E350 and make that work?
I just wish i wouldn’t have bought mine from the get go.
Can you build me a set up .. how much ?
I would not build your system like this guy's because he has unfiltered oil mixing with filtered oil.
Let us see what your talking about??
better rethink and look again lol.he opened up the two holes but only one is feeding directly into the hpo res. along with what is being filtered and dumped in this I'd why this system works all I can say is plug that bypass hole up and watch what happens plus he has his bypass filter in line which is completely wrong and is killing the flow.he should branch off the main supply line with a smaller line and his oil would be a lot cleaner as a little oil at a time would be filtered down to 2 micron.
I could not find your email address. Mine is Jukeboxbear gmail. Please contact me. Many thanks!
@@rcarpenter9508it goes two directions...one direction goes to the hpop after the hpop where does it go....thats right back to the pan....ok now where does the other direction go....thats right it feeds the rest of the motor like crank cam oilers lifters.....now if you know anything you'd know that if he was feeding straight through a bypass filter the motor wouldnt last long obviously his remote oil filter block is the correct dual filter bypass block that internally branches the to the bypass...furthermore if you knew anything else you'd know that the van top housing like he uses has no drain back hole
Now all I have to do is, learn how to weld aluminum :).
People say use 12AN hose, you said 10AN. I suppose it works well or something I missed? Thanks.
How much oil did you use in total? Thanks to your diy method I was able to get my truck running. I noticed the oil in the high pressure rail seems kind of foamy
Hello did you find out what the problem was with the foaming was?? I want to avoid problems doing mine, thanks!
you are sucking air if your oil is foamy it is more than likely coming from the lpop side and entering the hpo res from the low side.
R Carpender, Dr.'s video get's a little confusing at first because he switches what he's talking about between using the f350 stock or e350 oil set up. I am wanting to use a 06 e350 oil set up, including the filter housing (where I can access it easier-not under the truck). I will tap a bypass filter off that line somewhere. Both the top housing and the lower filter housing has what appears to be those check valves in place. I am very interested in the video your are going to make. Im trying to understand what your saying, could you take some still shots from photos on line and mark it- delineate in red to show us what your talking about?? I would really appreciate it! Thank you in advance
my name vern can u please call me oil bypass tips
Air to oil doesn't cool as well
This is a basket of nonsense
Why do you think this is nonsense??
the way you explained it is wrong and surprised no one has caught it.a factory oil cooler system has the oil entering where those two valves you took out.the other little hole associated with the main feed valve is a bypass and opens up when the oil cooler becomes clogged.if you have oil entering and dispersing through those two holes you are sending oil back through your system and not entering the motor.
those two valves you took out you are only getting the oil from that little hole not the big hole where it normally comes in.
if you have a tube separating that from filtered and non filtered oil.
Oh and further more the reason why your system works is because you have filtered and non filtered oil mixing and going straight in that big hole which feeds the turbo and the hpop res.YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT AT ITS FULL POTENTIAL I would be glad to talk it over with you and I can show you a way to simplify the system even more and filter 100% of the oil on the very first pass,you think your truck runs good now watch how it runs with just a few simple changes.
He did say he has had it for years with no problems. Why not make a video and show us all how to improve it or ...are you really a "Bulletproof" employee??
Can you please show me what you are talking about to filter 100%?? I am finishing rebuilding and trying to this to my truck