Another very interesting video Sam and many thanks for all that I have learned from you this past year. I look forward to many more videos from you in 2014, Alan.
Great video on this technique Sam. I took up your subtle challenge on making the revers chuck for finishing the bottom of a 4" bowl and I "just did it". It was not all that hard to accomplish after all. So thank you for the push and for all of your videos for that matter. Derek
the plate warmer setting works great for me. the cycle on mine is 10 minutes. During this time, the MW if on for about 4 seconds and off for about 12 seconds. keeps the bowl warm without getting hot. I like to dry them to the point that the next time I weight it the next day, it's actually gained weight from moisture in the air, so I know the bowl is as dry as it's going to get. To me, it's the only true way of to tell if the bowl is dry. Also, when it starts getting to be mostly dry, it will heat up A LOT faster and hotter so you have to be careful it's not steaming like crazy using the same settings and times in the MW.
Hi Sam, I gave it a trial run tonight in the microwave and it seemed to work well. One question, what would you recommend as a interval between times in the mcrowave? Generally, I just used the microwave to get it warm but still easily hsndled, let it cool off then back in. Thanks
Scott I do nothing too scientific. I generally put something in my microwave in my shop and crank it up a little every time I walk by. It may take a day or two to dry something. The first thing I do is monitor the wood till it starts to stem a little. Then once it is that hot, I keep it fairly warm to hot but let it cool off once in a while then check the weight. My microwave only has a dial with no good readout. So I don't keep it going for too long at any time. Sam
+Art Gerst I have no set time. Just hit and miss or when I walk by the microwave I turn it on for a while. I just got another on with a proper dial and readout with a digital display. So I can be more scientific. I just try to let the wood cool off each time. Sam
Sam, nice video thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a question... Back on one of your videos you had a small segment were you show us how to cut hoop and loop sand paper for 2" and 3" bowl sander. Could you tell me what you use to cut the sand paper circles? Thanks!
I just fold the disk in half and cut it with a pair of scissors. A real good Idea that I have not tried is to use a hole saw---the kind you use in a drill for doorknobs----grind the teeth off and make a knife edge and just hold the hole saw against the paper and it slices out a disk. I need to do that ...sam
Sam, I was looking for the video of your kiln to ask this - what’s is a general temperature to try and maintain? I’m using a discarded fridge and trying to get an idea of the temp if I want blanks to be ready in 7-10 days. Thanks.
Here is a link to my light bulb kiln video.ua-cam.com/video/Z09xUNGTcg4/v-deo.html It has an incandescent bulb in it. It creates perhaps 100-105º. I would leave stuff in there for days and overnight as well. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Sam
Thanks! With the magic of video, it looks like there’s not much rest time between microwaving. Does an hour or two wait between microwave make sense on a ten inch diameter, one inch thick bowl wall?
Scott, you can sure dry a bowl this big, I just rarely do that. I don't have a set formula for "time set" for actually drying with the microwave running vs resting time. I usually run the microwave for 2-4 minutes at a time. I finally got a nice microwave I can set the power to a certain percentage. I usually do it at around 60%. Mainly I do 3 or 4 cycles with a few minutes resting between----then....I let the piece completely cool down. I don't want to get the wood too hot. It will start to steam a lot if it is too hot. Just watch it closely till you figure our a good process for you. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER wow Sam. Thanks a ton for the info! I’m trying to be careful and actually effective, so taking it a bit slow and see if I can. I really appreciate the info and the reply!
take a well salted water and cook moist tree 1-2-3 hours in the water. Then wrap the newspaper and postavte dry and so change the paper in a week tree is dry and free of cracks. You can cook in salted water ready wood products, they will target and never cracked.
I love the video, thanks so much for the great info! I did have one recommendation. Looking at the microwave, it doesn't appear to have a turntable. I would highly recommend getting one as microwaves will only be hitting your bowl in one or two places based on how the waves travel. This could give you dryer and wetter parts of the bowl which could later cause warping. You can buy one at walmart for a few bucks and it may help. Anyway, just wanted to toss that out there.
I have been learning to turn bowls and so far I have made a recess in the outside to put in some polymer clay as an inlay. My problem is that I don't really know what sort of glue is compatible with polymer clay and wood and is very strong. Can you help me please?
Sheila I love to inlay materials into my bowls: turquoise, brass, even sawdust of various colors. I have no experience with polymer clay. So I need to ask: Do you need to glue it in? Will it stick into a groove or recess by itself with no help from glue? What I use for a "medium" for the material I am inlaying is epoxy or CA glue. These types of glue will hold the colored material AND make it stick to the wood. Sorry I just don't know about the clay. Sam
In the slight chance that you see this: Could you tell what chisels/gouges are absolutely necessary in turning BOWLS only? I only want to turn bowls and don't want to spend too much on frivolous types of gouges and chisels. Thanks, sir
First, I would get a 5/8" bowl gouge. You could turn bowls with just this one tool. Next, maybe a scraper. There are always some tools that would be nice to have. Smaller parting tools for making a tenon and things like that.... Sam
+Seth Warner Yes, exactly. The thinner portion of the wall, typically closer to the rim, will dry out sooner and begin to crack because the thicker area is still a little wetter and not dry. It is important in my climate to seal the wood and let it dry slowly. Sam
I use microwave drying for the 200-250 bowls I complete each year. I only use the moisture meter (on the bowl underside). Trying to track all these calculations by weighing is awkward. Also I'm going to switch over to a lightbulb kiln to reduce the microwave operations costs. But as people say do what you feel comfortable with. PS- I like a curve tool rest as it makes you do a smooth bowl wall arc.
Sam, Hi good video. I have a question. In this video video you said when drying a bowl you could measure the moisture by weight. My question is what kind of scales and where would one purchase such a scale? Gary
Gary I don't use the microwave for anything larger than a lidded box or a small bowl. I have two scales. One has a dial scale (not digital) and it goes up to a pound. The other one is a $15 digital scale but it only goes up to 3 or 4 ounces. Too small for most stuff. I get most of my stuff off Amazon or Ebay. These places will be the least expensive stuff. For MOST of the stuff I turn, I don't bother weighing it. I look for movement in the wood-and if it has stopped moving. Hope this helps. Sam
There is a lot of information here. I am going to watch a 2nd time to make sure I understood everything. How much power do you suggest for the microwave? SAFE TURNING!
Wood suppose to be dried in steam in the special ovens. Drying needs to be slowed down, to avoid cracks. Microwave is not good idea. I'm making music instruments of wood and I use "pentacryl" to slow down drying and protect it from cracks. You can purchase pentacryl on line or in any wood craft store.
Thanks N Tatic.... I suppose there are a few thousand turners out there who are using a microwave to dry turned items successfully. Yes, to dry wood the drying process needs to be slowed down. When I use the microwave to dry small objects I usually run the microwave for no more than 30 seconds. Then let it cool down. I repeat 15 to 25 times till the wood stops losing weight (water) when weighed. I can dry a bowl in 2 or 3 days. If I put it in a box with shavings, t would take weeks. Thanks Sam
I have had that bandsaw for well over 20 years. I am pretty certain it is a Delta product. I got it, along with the saw, from Woodworkers supply at the same time. It was a great addition. I also put a 2 HP motor on it and replaced the 3/4 horse that was on it. Sam
well done sam! i want to ask if y can help me.... i want to cut olive and i make ball.. i start with cut olive and i make ball ? or i whait to dry and after i make it? please help me i need y :)
Voreios Thanks for watching my video. If you turn a bowl, you can rough turn it and let it dry.....and finish it after it has dried. With a ball, the center cannot dry out as fast as the outside. But you can't "rough turn" it like a bowl since it is solidYou just have to turn the wood and seal it-maybe with an oil. Then hope for the best. Some woods will not split as badly as others. I have had good luck with Linden or Basswood. Just try a small sphere and let it sit and see if it splits. Sam
Mick King I have had this smock for at least 10 years. I am pretty sure I got it at craft supplies. It actually looks pretty clean in this video. It’s really trashed now lots of gunk on it ha ha
I would like to learn how to turn wood on a lathe but it appears that one requires an initial investment of several thousand dollars. Are there lathes, etc for hobby projects under $300.00? Is safe but inexpensive equipment available? Where? Thanks.
Laura It is difficult to get into turning for less than $1000-$1500 (in my opinion). You can get a lathe for around $500 or $600 but with all the tools and other accessories, it can be an additional 500 or 600 dollars. So it is not cheap. There are some smaller lathes that are fairly inexpensive, like $250 or $300. These less expensive lathes will not be variable speed or have reverse. Nice features. Sam
I had a set of woodturning tools that were about 30+ years old and so decided to give turning a try and by spending little money so as to decide if I enjoyed it (and could actually get some reasonable results) I would invest in a lathe with features Sam mentions. I bought a mini lathe during sales period for £120 (from Rutlands in UK) after studying various reviews. Its made in China as most are these days and so far seems to work ok (although as I am learning I think it might not be as accurate as the more expensive ones, but does the job to learn). I had an old book on turning and started experimenting initially by sort of poking the chisels and gouges into some old round hand rails I had lying around, (I was too scared to try rounding square pieces when I started). I managed to get some shapes and although scary at times (lots of catches) it was fun. I realised I needed some lessons, but nothing available where I live here in Greece and so started learning much more from Sam and many other generous turners who share their skills and time with us. Which has enabled me to make some rather pleasing items till now and more each day as I try to copy what Sam (and others) show us. I saw on internet sets of tools similar to my set for about £80 (probably better than mine), so for about £200 I got started. But then comes the learning process of sharpening your tools and so back to You Tube to learn more. I have made jigs (which you can copy from videos) to use on an old very cheap grinder I had and again on an old belt sander (copy of Robert Sorby's sharpening system) which didn't even have a working motor and I just drive it with an old electric drill. Apart from buying a fine zircon belt, everything comes from scraps and bits lying around my garage/workshop. (I note locally you can buy a little belt and wheel grinder for Euro 60 which would work just fine with some home made jigs if you can't get your hands on an old belt sander). So for for less than £250 you can get started and get results. If you live in USA everything is ever so much cheaper than UK or EU so you could probably get started on your budget (but don't buy the very very cheap chisels/gouges, better to get high speed. Read the reviews on Amazon and elsewhere). You can even make some of your own tools. My first roughing gouge was a stainless steel pipe that I sharpened the rim and works pretty good. Since then I have made other tools out of steel bar and turned handles for them. Some have ss or carbide cutting tips which just screw on the end. Very cheap to make and work well. So I encourage you to try. If you don't enjoy turning you have not invested too much and if, like me, you enjoy, you can add to your collection of tools as I did. I also bought a chuck that I can use on my next Lathe when I decide to get something better. So give it a try and good luck. Regards/George
George!!!! What a surprise to read your response to my ancient query! Great information and advice. A while back, there were municipal tree cutters doing their thing in my neighborhood. I was lucky enough to pick up a few interesting looking green oak sections to play with using bits, cutters, hand strength, a burr or two, and imagination. Result was half cut out "bowl" thing with twiggy handle sticking out from side. I left bark on, smoothing that out a bit, and removed about 1/2" off bottom edge cause some was already damaged by tree trimmers. The inside was carved out using several things, acorn bits, spade bit, drills, whatever I could find that still had a decent edge left. Unfortunately, I only made it about halfway down interior before father time stepped in and turned by green oak into concrete. None of my sharp things worked too well after that. I still have it, I enjoy it shape and texture, so it always be my first attempt at bowl making. Proof that I tried. Right now, I am trying to convert a nice short posted twin bed frame into 4 poster canopy bed. The posts have removable carved finials that just screw into the post. They attach with those metal screw in screw things (now, isn't that the clearest description God only knows what you've ever read??)so attaching longer posts will be simple. I bought long, large round dowls and will cut for height, insert the screwy screw things, stain, seal, twist on and viola, 4 poster canopy from a sow's ear. I've drawn and removed wood from sections of dowel as decorative touches. No lathe here, though, just a good eye, patience, and the mighty dremel tool. I enjoy transforming wood but improvement comes with every project. As do you, I am a scavenger of my cast off tools for other uses. Imagination leads to innovation, and before you realize it, you have a pyramid, or, you're on your way to the moon. As I continue mistreating beautiful wood, I get closer to the lathe, at least in my imagination. You may see an email or 2 asking for advice occasionally.. Is that OK? In Greece, What types of wood species do you have for woodworking? Do you buy it from a supplier or go out and collect it yourself? My coffee pot is calling my name. Thanks for the note, you have made my day, George!
Laura Cullen I see that (like me) you enjoy and appreciate turning a lump of wood or a sow's ear into something useful or beautiful. It's very satisfying isn't it. I very very rarely buy any wood and rather pick up old discarded furniture or pallets left for garbage collection. I have a bad habit of never throwing anything away as always seems to come in useful (the 30+ year old belt sander without motor for example) and my friends keep an eye open for discarded wood they collect for me. Since starting turning (about 3/4 months now) my friends also bring me small logs they have found. In return they bring me old furniture to repair (legs dropped off chairs etc, nothing too difficult). I don't know of any woodturners here in Athens, but I guess there must be some. No classes or woodturning clubs as far as I know. So its all down to watching videos and experimenting. There is pine, poplar, plane, mullberry, lemon and orange trees and most interesting olive trees here in greece (I guess there must be more, but most wood is imported in planks). I have two old olive trees in my tiny back yard and quite some years ago I trimmed some branches so as to be able to move around that area and was going to use them for firewood. I decided to cut up those branches a couple of months ago to try and turn something and was blown away as to how beautiful the pattern and grain looks when turned and polished up which encouraged me a lot to keep trying to actually make something and so ended up making small boxes, goblets and candlestick holders. Now I am looking for more olive wood but am informed that it is not the season yet for trimming olive trees, now trying to turn bowls and larger boxes from poplar and pine. As they are green most have ended up cracking but I try to rescue them and so far have have painted them with various paints with (I think) nice results. I can hardly find any of the polishes and finishes I see in the videos and so have ordered a few polishes from UK, but a lot of them cannot be shipped due to regulations, so I have to improvise and experiment a lot. My point is that you are limited only by your imagination and so would encourage you to keep on 'giving it a try' and you may surprise yourself with the results. Turning becomes rather addictive and certainly challenges you to keep on trying to produce something more complicated/harder, but like all things, once you have done something it becomes easier and you move on. Of course lots of mistakes but thats how you learn. You could make a little lathe and use a electric drill to dive it (I actually did that with some spindle turned results), or I see you can buy a lathe attachment for a drill for very little money. And there is always 2nd hand/used lathes for sale. Lots of people buy, try and don't get anywhere and then sell. So you can get one very cheap, even a decent 'named' one. If I can be of any help please feel free to contact me and I will be pleased to help in any way I can. Kind regards/George (by the way I am from the UK originally).
OK, I am not sure if this is in total context but here goes. When I use the microwave it is after all of the turning as been done to a point. So I begin microwaving it and continue until the piece no longer loses weight. THEN if I need to, I will put the piece back on the lathe and true it up. And at this point it should not lose any more water. Sam
Hmmm ... I think I need to start working on my wife to get a new microwave for the kitchen. Rather than toss the old one in the landfill, I could recycle it in the shop!
I noticed towards the end of this video that the smaller bowl cracked and you broke the bowl apart. Would it not be of value to show your other subscribers the advantages of using a vacuum stabilizer. In that way they can still have a salable product that is not only pleasurable to look at, but still valuable. At present I have my stabilizer setup and am presently in the process of building a vacuum wood kiln. As wood dried in this fashion can be dried at around 76 degrees Fahrenheit at sea level over a period of one week or less instead of a month or so.
Ronald Thanks for the information on the Stabilizer. I found a video by Dave Hout demonstrating the Wood Stabilizer. Very interesting and useful.....I do not have one. First, when I demonstrate in person or in a video I usually use wood that is a little on the soft side. And it is not the prettiest wood. I seldom finish these pieces for sale. When I get a crack in a piece that I really can' repair or feel it compromises the integrity of the piece, I will not sell it. Sometimes we can learn a lot from bandsawing a bowl in half to see how we are really doing. Thanks Sam
Your welcome and I might add I wish I lived where you do as they refuse to ship the non-voc's that they make the stabilizing liquids out of the US.. TMI Products is your best bet unless you have a local Woodcraft Store. Good luck with any attempts that you make on this subject. Seeing as you'll have to purchase a vacuum pump, you might as well attempt to build yourself a vacuum kiln as well. As wood dries a sea level at 76 degree's instead of 212 degree's.
Hi Buddy, I have a mate in Australia who drys his bowls in the microwave, He tells me to have a glass of water with any drying of wood so it doesn't crack. May be you can try this out. Cheers Desmond
Desmond That is a good idea. I will check it out. In a really large kiln for bowls, it is important to maintain the correct humidity, so this makes sense. Thanks Sam
Thanks Sam. I'm new to turning and you are a great help !
Another very interesting video Sam and many thanks for all that I have learned from you this past year. I look forward to many more videos from you in 2014,
Alan.
Great video Sam, Thank you for all the information.
Very informative! Thank you!
For a rookie turner like me who is strugling with only getting ahold of green wood,this video is priceless
Thank you Sam for the tips.
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to share!!
As always Sam an amazing presentation and brilliant online mentoring - thank you!
Thanks
Sam
Thanks Sam, most informative. Best regards.
As usual another excellent explanitory video. Many thanks Sam.
George
Thank you for watching
Sam
Another "full of useful tips" video Sam. Thanks.
Happy New Year
Mike
Thanks
Sam
GREAT VIDEO, THANKS FOR SHARING!
Awesome information Sam, thanks for sharing. :)
Thanks
Sam
Great video friend, so glad I found you. Thanks so much!
Great video on this technique Sam. I took up your subtle challenge on making the revers chuck for finishing the bottom of a 4" bowl and I "just did it". It was not all that hard to accomplish after all. So thank you for the push and for all of your videos for that matter.
Derek
Glad to here you did the jam chuck. Sam
as ever sam, great video, your a inspiration to us novices
Thanks Marty
Thank you. Very informative :)
Thanks
Sam
the plate warmer setting works great for me. the cycle on mine is 10 minutes. During this time, the MW if on for about 4 seconds and off for about 12 seconds. keeps the bowl warm without getting hot. I like to dry them to the point that the next time I weight it the next day, it's actually gained weight from moisture in the air, so I know the bowl is as dry as it's going to get. To me, it's the only true way of to tell if the bowl is dry.
Also, when it starts getting to be mostly dry, it will heat up A LOT faster and hotter so you have to be careful it's not steaming like crazy using the same settings and times in the MW.
I like the plate warmer setting. Mine does not have this. And with steam coming off-indicates moisture. Good info, Sam
Thanks a lot👍
Very good stuff, thanks for the information!!!
Hi Sam,
I gave it a trial run tonight in the microwave and it seemed to work well. One question, what would you recommend as a interval between times in the mcrowave? Generally, I just used the microwave to get it warm but still easily hsndled, let it cool off then back in.
Thanks
Scott
I do nothing too scientific. I generally put something in my microwave in my shop and crank it up a little every time I walk by. It may take a day or two to dry something. The first thing I do is monitor the wood till it starts to stem a little. Then once it is that hot, I keep it fairly warm to hot but let it cool off once in a while then check the weight. My microwave only has a dial with no good readout. So I don't keep it going for too long at any time. Sam
Thanks.
Thanks for the video, Sam. I will use your directions to nuke a bowl-type turning I am about to embark on.
thanks again for your info! I will try to be nicer... Laughter really helps the soul!!!
Great video, thanks.
You get extra credit for not suggesting we use our wife's microwave.
+Bill Wells
Yep, we better no go there, huh? I am fortunate to have a fairly nice microwave in the shop.
Thanks Sam
When I mentioned I wanted a microwave for the shop she told me to just use the one in the house... she's an odd one
Bill Wells mm
Could you dry out the bowl on the lathe by just letting it run for 15 min or so ?
Great video, Sam! How long between sessions in the microwave?
+Art Gerst I have no set time. Just hit and miss or when I walk by the microwave I turn it on for a while. I just got another on with a proper dial and readout with a digital display. So I can be more scientific. I just try to let the wood cool off each time. Sam
thank you for your microwave tips I will try to be smarter thanks to you. Ron
Thanks good info! How much microwave?? In a day 10”bowl? Do you stop every so often?
Sam, nice video thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a question... Back on one of your videos you had a small segment were you show us how to cut hoop and loop sand paper for 2" and 3" bowl sander. Could you tell me what you use to cut the sand paper circles? Thanks!
I just fold the disk in half and cut it with a pair of scissors. A real good Idea that I have not tried is to use a hole saw---the kind you use in a drill for doorknobs----grind the teeth off and make a knife edge and just hold the hole saw against the paper and it slices out a disk.
I need to do that ...sam
Sam, I was looking for the video of your kiln to ask this - what’s is a general temperature to try and maintain? I’m using a discarded fridge and trying to get an idea of the temp if I want blanks to be ready in 7-10 days. Thanks.
Here is a link to my light bulb kiln video.ua-cam.com/video/Z09xUNGTcg4/v-deo.html It has an incandescent bulb in it. It creates perhaps 100-105º. I would leave stuff in there for days and overnight as well. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Sam
Thanks! With the magic of video, it looks like there’s not much rest time between microwaving. Does an hour or two wait between microwave make sense on a ten inch diameter, one inch thick bowl wall?
Scott, you can sure dry a bowl this big, I just rarely do that. I don't have a set formula for "time set" for actually drying with the microwave running vs resting time. I usually run the microwave for 2-4 minutes at a time. I finally got a nice microwave I can set the power to a certain percentage. I usually do it at around 60%. Mainly I do 3 or 4 cycles with a few minutes resting between----then....I let the piece completely cool down. I don't want to get the wood too hot. It will start to steam a lot if it is too hot. Just watch it closely till you figure our a good process for you. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER wow Sam. Thanks a ton for the info! I’m trying to be careful and actually effective, so taking it a bit slow and see if I can. I really appreciate the info and the reply!
What is the name of the tool used to turn out the core and creating a smaller piece for another tiny bowl?
take a well salted water and cook moist tree 1-2-3 hours in the water.
Then wrap the newspaper and postavte dry and so change the paper in a week
tree is dry and free of cracks. You can cook in salted water ready
wood products, they will target and never cracked.
Thank you for the video Bob.
You are welcome
I love the video, thanks so much for the great info! I did have one recommendation. Looking at the microwave, it doesn't appear to have a turntable. I would highly recommend getting one as microwaves will only be hitting your bowl in one or two places based on how the waves travel. This could give you dryer and wetter parts of the bowl which could later cause warping. You can buy one at walmart for a few bucks and it may help. Anyway, just wanted to toss that out there.
Thanks for the info. I will check it out. Sam
I have been getting mine too hot. I will do it slower. Thanks!
I have been learning to turn bowls and so far I have made a recess in the outside to put in some polymer clay as an inlay. My problem is that I don't really know what sort of glue is compatible with polymer clay and wood and is very strong. Can you help me please?
Sheila
I love to inlay materials into my bowls: turquoise, brass, even sawdust of various colors. I have no experience with polymer clay. So I need to ask: Do you need to glue it in? Will it stick into a groove or recess by itself with no help from glue? What I use for a "medium" for the material I am inlaying is epoxy or CA glue. These types of glue will hold the colored material AND make it stick to the wood. Sorry I just don't know about the clay.
Sam
In the slight chance that you see this:
Could you tell what chisels/gouges are absolutely necessary in turning BOWLS only?
I only want to turn bowls and don't want to spend too much on frivolous types of gouges and chisels.
Thanks, sir
First, I would get a 5/8" bowl gouge. You could turn bowls with just this one tool. Next, maybe a scraper. There are always some tools that would be nice to have. Smaller parting tools for making a tenon and things like that....
Sam
Thank you for your reply! Cheers :^)
Fuark m8 9k
n
So, I hear you saying that if the wall thickness is NOT evenfrom edge to bottom, then I will cause uneven drying or warping?
+Seth Warner Yes, exactly. The thinner portion of the wall, typically closer to the rim, will dry out sooner and begin to crack because the thicker area is still a little wetter and not dry. It is important in my climate to seal the wood and let it dry slowly. Sam
I know this is a weird question and I'm not even sure if you look at this anymore but what RPMs do you keep your bandsaw at?
Jayce My bandsaw only has one speed. I am not sure what the RPMs are. Sam
I use microwave drying for the 200-250 bowls I complete each year. I only use the moisture meter (on the bowl underside). Trying to track all these calculations by weighing is awkward. Also I'm going to switch over to a lightbulb kiln to reduce the microwave operations costs. But as people say do what you feel comfortable with. PS- I like a curve tool rest as it makes you do a smooth bowl wall arc.
I agree about switching to a kiln of some sort. Sam
bfmcarparts Last
Use a pencil and record the weights on the bottom of each piece. Simple and you can't lose track.
I notice that you have a Allen Bradley on your lathe, I have a IP20 on mine but cant find RPM,s can you help?
Sorry, Allen Bradley? What is that? Sam
Sam, Hi good video. I have a question. In this video video you said when drying a bowl you could measure the moisture by weight. My question is what kind of scales and where would one purchase such a scale?
Gary
Gary
I don't use the microwave for anything larger than a lidded box or a small bowl. I have two scales. One has a dial scale (not digital) and it goes up to a pound. The other one is a $15 digital scale but it only goes up to 3 or 4 ounces. Too small for most stuff. I get most of my stuff off Amazon or Ebay. These places will be the least expensive stuff. For MOST of the stuff I turn, I don't bother weighing it. I look for movement in the wood-and if it has stopped moving. Hope this helps. Sam
Yes Sam Thanks very helpful
Hi Sam, have you ever used a product called Pentacryl. It's very expensive for the amount you get but it sounds like it is very effective.
+Yuval Yeoman I have never used it. I use an Artisan product from Craft Supply USA just called Wood Sealer
Sam
There is a lot of information here. I am going to watch a 2nd time to make sure I understood everything. How much power do you suggest for the microwave?
SAFE TURNING!
I have a really old microwave. It does not have any power settings. Not sure how to advise on this.
Wood suppose to be dried in steam in the special ovens.
Drying needs to be slowed down, to avoid cracks. Microwave is not good idea.
I'm making music instruments of wood and I use "pentacryl" to slow down drying and protect it from cracks. You can purchase pentacryl on line or in any wood craft store.
Thanks N Tatic.... I suppose there are a few thousand turners out there who are using a microwave to dry turned items successfully. Yes, to dry wood the drying process needs to be slowed down. When I use the microwave to dry small objects I usually run the microwave for no more than 30 seconds. Then let it cool down. I repeat 15 to 25 times till the wood stops losing weight (water) when weighed. I can dry a bowl in 2 or 3 days. If I put it in a box with shavings, t would take weeks. Thanks Sam
Have you ever tried boiling as part of the drying process?
No. I have good success with just packing them away and waiting. I am in no rush if that is a benefit to boiling. Sam
Bob I have a question for you regarding you bandsaw. I see you have an 6"extension installed, is it the delta $189 kit or different brand?
I have had that bandsaw for well over 20 years. I am pretty certain it is a Delta product. I got it, along with the saw, from Woodworkers supply at the same time. It was a great addition. I also put a 2 HP motor on it and replaced the 3/4 horse that was on it. Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER More power is always good.
What size is that bowl gouge
It is a 5/8 inch gouge. Sam
What was the tool used at 5:10? I couldn't hear clearly. Thank you!
Russell
At 5:10 I am coring with the Kel McNaughton Center saver system. Is that the one you were looking at? Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER Yep, that's the one. Thank you!
Love the T shirt!
Could you do this to ornament blanks?
I don't see why not. Are they partly hollowed? Or still solid? If the wood is still a solid blank you might get cracking. Sam
Maybe she thougth you were going to try drying the dishes in the microwave
well done sam! i want to ask if y can help me.... i want to cut olive and i make ball.. i start with cut olive and i make ball ? or i whait to dry and after i make it? please help me i need y :)
Voreios
Thanks for watching my video. If you turn a bowl, you can rough turn it and let it dry.....and finish it after it has dried. With a ball, the center cannot dry out as fast as the outside. But you can't "rough turn" it like a bowl since it is solidYou just have to turn the wood and seal it-maybe with an oil. Then hope for the best. Some woods will not split as badly as others. I have had good luck with Linden or Basswood. Just try a small sphere and let it sit and see if it splits.
Sam
WYOMINGWOODTURNER
tnx sam i try :)
Where do you get the green jacket?
Mick King I have had this smock for at least 10 years. I am pretty sure I got it at craft supplies. It actually looks pretty clean in this video. It’s really trashed now lots of gunk on it ha ha
I would like to learn how to turn wood on a lathe but it appears that one requires an initial investment of several thousand dollars. Are there lathes, etc for hobby projects under $300.00? Is safe but inexpensive equipment available? Where? Thanks.
Laura
It is difficult to get into turning for less than $1000-$1500 (in my opinion). You can get a lathe for around $500 or $600 but with all the tools and other accessories, it can be an additional 500 or 600 dollars. So it is not cheap. There are some smaller lathes that are fairly inexpensive, like $250 or $300. These less expensive lathes will not be variable speed or have reverse. Nice features. Sam
I had a set of woodturning tools that were about 30+ years old and so decided to give turning a try and by spending little money so as to decide if I enjoyed it (and could actually get some reasonable results) I would invest in a lathe with features Sam mentions. I bought a mini lathe during sales period for £120 (from Rutlands in UK) after studying various reviews. Its made in China as most are these days and so far seems to work ok (although as I am learning I think it might not be as accurate as the more expensive ones, but does the job to learn). I had an old book on turning and started experimenting initially by sort of poking the chisels and gouges into some old round hand rails I had lying around, (I was too scared to try rounding square pieces when I started). I managed to get some shapes and although scary at times (lots of catches) it was fun. I realised I needed some lessons, but nothing available where I live here in Greece and so started learning much more from Sam and many other generous turners who share their skills and time with us. Which has enabled me to make some rather pleasing items till now and more each day as I try to copy what Sam (and others) show us. I saw on internet sets of tools similar to my set for about £80 (probably better than mine), so for about £200 I got started. But then comes the learning process of sharpening your tools and so back to You Tube to learn more. I have made jigs (which you can copy from videos) to use on an old very cheap grinder I had and again on an old belt sander (copy of Robert Sorby's sharpening system) which didn't even have a working motor and I just drive it with an old electric drill. Apart from buying a fine zircon belt, everything comes from scraps and bits lying around my garage/workshop. (I note locally you can buy a little belt and wheel grinder for Euro 60 which would work just fine with some home made jigs if you can't get your hands on an old belt sander). So for for less than £250 you can get started and get results. If you live in USA everything is ever so much cheaper than UK or EU so you could probably get started on your budget (but don't buy the very very cheap chisels/gouges, better to get high speed. Read the reviews on Amazon and elsewhere). You can even make some of your own tools. My first roughing gouge was a stainless steel pipe that I sharpened the rim and works pretty good. Since then I have made other tools out of steel bar and turned handles for them. Some have ss or carbide cutting tips which just screw on the end. Very cheap to make and work well. So I encourage you to try. If you don't enjoy turning you have not invested too much and if, like me, you enjoy, you can add to your collection of tools as I did. I also bought a chuck that I can use on my next Lathe when I decide to get something better. So give it a try and good luck. Regards/George
George!!!! What a surprise to read your response to my ancient query! Great information and advice. A while back, there were municipal tree cutters doing their thing in my neighborhood. I was lucky enough to pick up a few interesting looking green oak sections to play with using bits, cutters, hand strength, a burr or two, and imagination. Result was half cut out "bowl" thing with twiggy handle sticking out from side. I left bark on, smoothing that out a bit, and removed about 1/2" off bottom edge cause some was already damaged by tree trimmers. The inside was carved out using several things, acorn bits, spade bit, drills, whatever I could find that still had a decent edge left. Unfortunately, I only made it about halfway down interior before father time stepped in and turned by green oak into concrete. None of my sharp things worked too well after that. I still have it, I enjoy it shape and texture, so it always be my first attempt at bowl making. Proof that I tried. Right now, I am trying to convert a nice short posted twin bed frame into 4 poster canopy bed. The posts have removable carved finials that just screw into the post. They attach with those metal screw in screw things (now, isn't that the clearest description God only knows what you've ever read??)so attaching longer posts will be simple. I bought long, large round dowls and will cut for height, insert the screwy screw things, stain, seal, twist on and viola, 4 poster canopy from a sow's ear. I've drawn and removed wood from sections of dowel as decorative touches. No lathe here, though, just a good eye, patience, and the mighty dremel tool. I enjoy transforming wood but improvement comes with every project. As do you, I am a scavenger of my cast off tools for other uses. Imagination leads to innovation, and before you realize it, you have a pyramid, or, you're on your way to the moon.
As I continue mistreating beautiful wood, I get closer to the lathe, at least in my imagination. You may see an email or 2 asking for advice occasionally.. Is that OK? In Greece, What types of wood species do you have for woodworking? Do you buy it from a supplier or go out and collect it yourself? My coffee pot is calling my name. Thanks for the note, you have made my day, George!
Laura Cullen I see that (like me) you enjoy and appreciate turning a lump of wood or a sow's ear into something useful or beautiful. It's very satisfying isn't it. I very very rarely buy any wood and rather pick up old discarded furniture or pallets left for garbage collection. I have a bad habit of never throwing anything away as always seems to come in useful (the 30+ year old belt sander without motor for example) and my friends keep an eye open for discarded wood they collect for me. Since starting turning (about 3/4 months now) my friends also bring me small logs they have found. In return they bring me old furniture to repair (legs dropped off chairs etc, nothing too difficult). I don't know of any woodturners here in Athens, but I guess there must be some. No classes or woodturning clubs as far as I know. So its all down to watching videos and experimenting. There is pine, poplar, plane, mullberry, lemon and orange trees and most interesting olive trees here in greece (I guess there must be more, but most wood is imported in planks). I have two old olive trees in my tiny back yard and quite some years ago I trimmed some branches so as to be able to move around that area and was going to use them for firewood. I decided to cut up those branches a couple of months ago to try and turn something and was blown away as to how beautiful the pattern and grain looks when turned and polished up which encouraged me a lot to keep trying to actually make something and so ended up making small boxes, goblets and candlestick holders. Now I am looking for more olive wood but am informed that it is not the season yet for trimming olive trees, now trying to turn bowls and larger boxes from poplar and pine. As they are green most have ended up cracking but I try to rescue them and so far have have painted them with various paints with (I think) nice results. I can hardly find any of the polishes and finishes I see in the videos and so have ordered a few polishes from UK, but a lot of them cannot be shipped due to regulations, so I have to improvise and experiment a lot. My point is that you are limited only by your imagination and so would encourage you to keep on 'giving it a try' and you may surprise yourself with the results. Turning becomes rather addictive and certainly challenges you to keep on trying to produce something more complicated/harder, but like all things, once you have done something it becomes easier and you move on. Of course lots of mistakes but thats how you learn. You could make a little lathe and use a electric drill to dive it (I actually did that with some spindle turned results), or I see you can buy a lathe attachment for a drill for very little money. And there is always 2nd hand/used lathes for sale. Lots of people buy, try and don't get anywhere and then sell. So you can get one very cheap, even a decent 'named' one. If I can be of any help please feel free to contact me and I will be pleased to help in any way I can. Kind regards/George (by the way I am from the UK originally).
NB I didn't realise when your question was posted until after I replied to you the first time. As they say 'better late than never'!
What kind of chisel cuts that fast?? Wow !
Were you looking at the part I had speeded up? I have learned to make myself look good by way of video editing. Sam
Sam, you've certainly lost weeight but how much by lathing and how much by micro?
OK, I am not sure if this is in total context but here goes. When I use the microwave it is after all of the turning as been done to a point. So I begin microwaving it and continue until the piece no longer loses weight. THEN if I need to, I will put the piece back on the lathe and true it up. And at this point it should not lose any more water. Sam
Fair enough Sam, I read your video incorrectly. I apologise. Carry on your good work. Bendith i chi!
Hmmm ... I think I need to start working on my wife to get a new microwave for the kitchen. Rather than toss the old one in the landfill, I could recycle it in the shop!
Gerald, I normally heat up my coffee with it. But I do use it. And you can always dry pen blanks and such. Sam
So, is it logical that once the weight stops decreasing after many neucings tht the moisture content is near zero?
great ideas. forget about ur wifes sis she dont turn, YOU ON!!! keep on kranking
I noticed towards the end of this video that the smaller bowl cracked and you broke the bowl apart. Would it not be of value to show your other subscribers the advantages of using a vacuum stabilizer. In that way they can still have a salable product that is not only pleasurable to look at, but still valuable. At present I have my stabilizer setup and am presently in the process of building a vacuum wood kiln. As wood dried in this fashion can be dried at around 76 degrees Fahrenheit at sea level over a period of one week or less instead of a month or so.
Ronald
Thanks for the information on the Stabilizer. I found a video by Dave Hout demonstrating the Wood Stabilizer. Very interesting and useful.....I do not have one. First, when I demonstrate in person or in a video I usually use wood that is a little on the soft side. And it is not the prettiest wood. I seldom finish these pieces for sale. When I get a crack in a piece that I really can' repair or feel it compromises the integrity of the piece, I will not sell it.
Sometimes we can learn a lot from bandsawing a bowl in half to see how we are really doing. Thanks Sam
Your welcome and I might add I wish I lived where you do as they refuse to ship the non-voc's that they make the stabilizing liquids out of the US.. TMI Products is your best bet unless you have a local Woodcraft Store. Good luck with any attempts that you make on this subject. Seeing as you'll have to purchase a vacuum pump, you might as well attempt to build yourself a vacuum kiln as well. As wood dries a sea level at 76 degree's instead of 212 degree's.
Here is how I use a microwave to dry wood for turning
ua-cam.com/video/PvffI25wcF0/v-deo.html
Hi Buddy, I have a mate in Australia who drys his bowls in the microwave, He tells me to have a glass of water with any drying of wood so it doesn't crack. May be you can try this out. Cheers Desmond
Desmond
That is a good idea. I will check it out. In a really large kiln for bowls, it is important to maintain the correct humidity, so this makes sense. Thanks Sam
be nicer lol thatks for the tips
I think she meant I need to be nicer, she is probably right. Thanks for watching.
Sam
Seeing you thread the blank onto the woodworm screw made me cringe, I guess you have really good health insurance.
Yes but even so, we can see the continuous rip. You know how to sharpen tools, fiewww.
Thanks, It is fun to do that. But the secret Is wet wood, or wood that is not dried out yet. Sam