Is the block material eps foam and portland cement? Looks fantastic. This appears to be a very slow building process with layer by layer leveling, I have several ideas to make this so much better. What is the reason for not staggering vertical seams?
Hello Kein. The vertical rebar is installed once they finish building the walls up to the finished height. They simply drop the verticals down from the top. Surprisingly, with this system, the rebar doesn't need to be centered. It produces the same amount of strength, whether it's centered or not, with this post and beam system. If you really wanted to, you could use what they call "chairs" which is a scrap piece of rebar that they place in the block core that the main rebar pieces can sit on
any instances you have seen this being used as interior walls? if so drywall goes directly on it? Floors are hollow core.. love to know if it can be done.. if so how do we pour concrete in this block as the hollow core top slab has already been placed on the beams??
Hello Ganesh. They have different block sizes available, one of them being a 6-inch block, which is what they use for interior walls. Drywall does apply directly to the block, so there's no need for screws. You can use a general purpose drywall mud to apply it.
For a warehouse , there are forklift moving around , may damage the wall body or surface , what is the recommended finish ? Could it be rendered ? and what is the highest ICCF could reach with safe ?
If only making straight perpendicular walls an interlocking system would make sense. However these blocks offer the added versatility of beveling the edges, stacking vertically for curved walls. It could be possible to have a jig that precisely drilled holes on the block and then use dowels to position but I notice that a person can do the same thing in seconds with a few taps, a level and a good set of eyes.
Termites do not eat this product, thankfully! I've seen many people use wood for the roofing systems, but it really comes down to what the customer prefers.
They do have an ICCF roofing system, but as of now, they can only do flat roofs. I have not seen any videos with their roofs yet, but I have seen them in person, and they're amazing!
Hey Shannon, it really depends on what code requires for the area you're in. What I'm familiar with as a standard for their block is every other core vertically and horizontally. They would lay their first row of block, and place horizontal rebar in that row. Then they'd lay row two and skip rebar in that row. They'd lay row three and place rebar in that row. Skip row four, place in row five, etc. With vertical rebar, they wait until the walls are at finished height and then they drop the rebar from the top, every other core/hole. Again, all plans are different depending on your build and location, so you may need extra rebar in certain locations (lintels/etc)
I’m thinking of building a cabin/cottage using ‘Perfect Blocks’, that would be 16’x24’. Is a slab foundation the most practical foundation, and would that type of foundation meet building code requirements in NE States...?
That's just the block, without concrete poured inside, without drywall/stucco/finisher, without anything done to it. Just as the block sits by itself is an R-32
if you level and plumb the very first row of blocks, shouldnt you be able to just stack the rest on top, only visually making sure they are in line with the previous row?
@@andreycham4797 right but you still have to check for level anyway because you are relying on uniform manufacturing of the blocks. which although almost perfect, can sometimes include defects. its certainly best to not rely on them and check for level anyway.. at least that is what a responsible builder would do. also, you are not really answering my question. by logic, if the bottom row is plumb, then you should be able to visually stack up the rest without really checking much. at least in theory you should. i was wondering if anyone had actual experience with these
OUTSTANDING ; o .....
Is the block material eps foam and portland cement? Looks fantastic. This appears to be a very slow building process with layer by layer leveling, I have several ideas to make this so much better. What is the reason for not staggering vertical seams?
When is the vertical rebar installed and how is it secured to remain centered in the horizontal column of concrete?
Hello Kein. The vertical rebar is installed once they finish building the walls up to the finished height. They simply drop the verticals down from the top. Surprisingly, with this system, the rebar doesn't need to be centered. It produces the same amount of strength, whether it's centered or not, with this post and beam system. If you really wanted to, you could use what they call "chairs" which is a scrap piece of rebar that they place in the block core that the main rebar pieces can sit on
any instances you have seen this being used as interior walls? if so drywall goes directly on it? Floors are hollow core.. love to know if it can be done.. if so how do we pour concrete in this block as the hollow core top slab has already been placed on the beams??
Hello Ganesh. They have different block sizes available, one of them being a 6-inch block, which is what they use for interior walls. Drywall does apply directly to the block, so there's no need for screws. You can use a general purpose drywall mud to apply it.
For a warehouse , there are forklift moving around , may damage the wall body or surface , what is the recommended finish ? Could it be rendered ? and what is the highest ICCF could reach with safe ?
Can these be used for a basement? And how do you do the flooring - joists for the main level? Would love to see more videos.
Why do the blocks not have an interlocking system, to make stacking easier?
That would be so much easier. I thought of several design improvements as well.
If only making straight perpendicular walls an interlocking system would make sense. However these blocks offer the added versatility of beveling the edges, stacking vertically for curved walls. It could be possible to have a jig that precisely drilled holes on the block and then use dowels to position but I notice that a person can do the same thing in seconds with a few taps, a level and a good set of eyes.
that would requare longer time for them to stay in mold to cure which would make them more expensive
What about waterproofing? Is there no need for a membrane or a fluid applied WRB?
There's no need for waterproofing unless you're doing a basement, then you need to waterproof
What do you do to discourage termites? What is the preferred roofing solution- wood, metal, EPS?
@@theperfectblockiccf how do you make an iccf roofing ? do you have video?
Termites do not eat this product, thankfully! I've seen many people use wood for the roofing systems, but it really comes down to what the customer prefers.
They do have an ICCF roofing system, but as of now, they can only do flat roofs. I have not seen any videos with their roofs yet, but I have seen them in person, and they're amazing!
How often do you have to put in rebar, vert & horiz?
Hey Shannon, it really depends on what code requires for the area you're in. What I'm familiar with as a standard for their block is every other core vertically and horizontally. They would lay their first row of block, and place horizontal rebar in that row. Then they'd lay row two and skip rebar in that row. They'd lay row three and place rebar in that row. Skip row four, place in row five, etc. With vertical rebar, they wait until the walls are at finished height and then they drop the rebar from the top, every other core/hole. Again, all plans are different depending on your build and location, so you may need extra rebar in certain locations (lintels/etc)
I’m thinking of building a cabin/cottage using ‘Perfect Blocks’, that would be 16’x24’. Is a slab foundation the most practical foundation, and would that type of foundation meet building code requirements in NE States...?
Yes, a slab foundation is what they use, and they do meet all building codes!!
How long does it take to plumb each block?
Hello Rob! It doesn't take long at all, I'd say a minute per block at most
(That's AT MOST.)
I can't find R-Value Rating !!!!! What is the R-Value ???
Their highest insulated blocks R-value is an R-32
That's just the block, without concrete poured inside, without drywall/stucco/finisher, without anything done to it. Just as the block sits by itself is an R-32
if you level and plumb the very first row of blocks, shouldnt you be able to just stack the rest on top, only visually making sure they are in line with the previous row?
That's what I was thinking too 👍
Blocks aren't manufactured to tight-enough tolerances to allow you to ignore using a level.
Since it is just styrofoam I would watch only for plumb and shave the top blocks by a laser guide
@@andreycham4797 right but you still have to check for level anyway because you are relying on uniform manufacturing of the blocks. which although almost perfect, can sometimes include defects. its certainly best to not rely on them and check for level anyway.. at least that is what a responsible builder would do. also, you are not really answering my question. by logic, if the bottom row is plumb, then you should be able to visually stack up the rest without really checking much. at least in theory you should. i was wondering if anyone had actual experience with these
@@andiarrohnds5163 sure, it is just a miner issue I worry more about the price
Where is this build?
Arizona
How do you decide where to glue?
You glue about every 6-8 inches.
Once the glue dries you can add extra glue if you want, it's up to the owner/builder
Does it work in northeast region?
Hey Chime.
Absolutely, it works all around the world! Anywhere and everywhere this product is amazing
Could you use gorilla glue instead, like in dots along the block ?