I have 10 different Yamaha's and I upgraded to Bone nut, Intonated bone saddle and wood end pins. Takes these already good guitars and makes them better. Cost me $23 for nut, saddle and end pins. Not a bad upgrade price. :-) Thanks for the video.
Ive only gotten one i was disappointed in which was a F325D. Only time i had an acoustic that just wasnt right from the factory. But the two reular 325's i have play and sound unreal. That 325D was just a weird guitar. @@stevewhite5761
I've found Ebony pins help reduce unwanted highs/thinness or "plinkiness" in the unwound strings. I've also converted several Yamaha's to bone saddle and nut - got my saddles (and some Martin saddles) from the same source you did; excellent product (no affiliation).
@@jasonvalcourt Stew-Mac has them, but they're sized for Martins (or "enlarged/worn" Martin string holes). Not sure what would work best for Yamahas...maybe you could reshape the ones from Stew-Mac?
I recently bought a beautiful FG 850 and had a setup done on it. It sounds really nice. I don't know if it is a bone saddle or not. It very well may be.
I have a Yamaha FS830 and will be switching to bone nut, saddle,and bridge pins. In the different colors of your saddles I would say the white one is bleached and the darker is unbleached. I’m going with unbleached to match the guitars binding.
@@jasonvalcourtGot my bone saddle today and the high and low E and the B are compensated and the plastic saddle is only compensated at the B and the intonation is perfect. Before I start any fitting should I have gotten a blank or does bone need to be compensated more than plastic for correct intonation?
I think the video or the picture might be misleading. It's not very high. I may be able to fine tune the action a tiny little bit, but nothing significant at all.
I have 10 different Yamaha's and I upgraded to Bone nut, Intonated bone saddle and wood end pins. Takes these already good guitars and makes them better. Cost me $23 for nut, saddle and end pins. Not a bad upgrade price. :-) Thanks for the video.
10 Yamahas, wow! Yeah, not a bad upgrade price at all, thanks!
Yamaha makes a fantastic acustic guitars
Ive only gotten one i was disappointed in which was a F325D. Only time i had an acoustic that just wasnt right from the factory. But the two reular 325's i have play and sound unreal. That 325D was just a weird guitar.
@@stevewhite5761
They sure do!
I've found Ebony pins help reduce unwanted highs/thinness or "plinkiness" in the unwound strings. I've also converted several Yamaha's to bone saddle and nut - got my saddles (and some Martin saddles) from the same source you did; excellent product (no affiliation).
Glad you had good results, I'd be interested in that upgrade to help fatten up the unwound strings. Can you recommend a source for ebony pins? Thanks
@@jasonvalcourt Stew-Mac has them, but they're sized for Martins (or "enlarged/worn" Martin string holes). Not sure what would work best for Yamahas...maybe you could reshape the ones from Stew-Mac?
@@michaelmcinnis911 Good to know, thanks! That sounds doable if I can't find the right taper.
Sounds great!
Much appreciated!
I recently bought a beautiful FG 850 and had a setup done on it. It sounds really nice. I don't know if it is a bone saddle or not. It very well may be.
Excellent! If still stock, it should be plastic but both give a good sound. Congrats!
I have a Yamaha FS830 and will be switching to bone nut, saddle,and bridge pins. In the different colors of your saddles I would say the white one is bleached and the darker is unbleached. I’m going with unbleached to match the guitars binding.
I like unbleached as well, unless the guitar has other white accents
@@jasonvalcourtGot my bone saddle today and the high and low E and the B are compensated and the plastic saddle is only compensated at the B and the intonation is perfect. Before I start any fitting should I have gotten a blank or does bone need to be compensated more than plastic for correct intonation?
I don't know that the material matters in compensation as we're messing with actual string distance from nut to saddle.
@@jasonvalcourtThat’s true. Guess I’ll look for a blank. Thanks for the reply.
@@awabbievet YW. Good luck!
I’d like your videos so much!
Thank for the content. Is really great and genuine.
Thank you!
Much appreciated, cheers!
You can try putting it in the freezer for an hour before putting it in, it might make it slightly smaller and easier
Interesting tip, much appreciated!
This is not a great idea because once it warms up you risk splitting the bridge- better to sand it to size at room temperature.
I ordered a McNichol saddle for my Yamaha FG-TA.
Excellent! I hope you like it and have a good experience with them, cheers
That's a very high action. How can you play it like that?
I think the video or the picture might be misleading. It's not very high. I may be able to fine tune the action a tiny little bit, but nothing significant at all.
no, you're right. The video was made before I had adjusted the saddle down further. Thanks
it's the stevie ray vaughn method. takes a while to get use to it.
Iv'e found urea to an excellent product ( it's harder than bone) 😮
Nice. I don't know much about its engineering but it's reliable and gives good tone!