OMB helped me build my first bike, and I'm FOREVER GRATEFUL. Apparently, the Grey Goat was helping me over the phone,and If I recall, Email. But, this is the First Video I've Seen. Once again, The Goat Knows All... I WAS thinking : "Why's that fat guy taking the recoil cover off" !! Thank You For Everything,Grey Goat. You are a Gentleman,as well as a Master.
I spent a long time on the phone and on email with OMB and ended up learning exactly what I needed to customize my non-hemi 212. He sent me the links for all 10 new parts he thought met my needs, so I ordered them all from him. Can't wait for the mail now. This goat knows what he's doing. Any questions I have he will be there to answer. Subscribed.
Hi John, This is Eric...the Gray Goat. Thank you very much for the kind words...much appreciated! It is not so much that I know what I am doing...more of I have learned from all the mistakes I have made! I have a garage full! LOL We are also here to provide support after the sale. You can always email me at HELP@OMBWarehouse.com and I can help you with whatever questions you have
Great informative video. I've never worked on small engines and have been rebuilding my predator 212cc and running it to death without an exhaust 😂 I've been having arm tearing recoil and no start, first thought it was a valve crunching issue, verified nothing was bent, and then figured it was a massive amount of compression and finally decided to find out how to ACTUALLY set valve lash haha.
Nice, once again omb warehouse beats out go power sports and their resident dumb dumb, red beard... this video show the entire process without the mistakes and word swaps that plagues red beard
Thanks for the help, my cam fell out when I was removing the governor and so I lined up the dots on the cam but was hard to pull, so I looked up what was needed and used this video.
Need help my predator 212cc brand new, valve lash is good and stage 1 kit. When I full throttle it accelerate fast but then stop and then wants to go and stop and goes again I don’t know what to do
I upgraded to the 18# springs and I've adjusted the valves, both @ .003 then installed the carb jet kit... now my engine pops when I accelerate. Did I maybe put the carb gaskets back on wrong... or ??? - PUZZLED. :( Oh, and I added an OMB header w/weenie muffler.
@5:10 hey great video by the way but I just wanted to throw a slight clarification out there that you meant to say turn the engine counterclockwise instead of clockwise but i think you only accidentally said clockwise because you were thinking what direction the cam gear was getting moved in. No big deal because if people are looking close enough they can see that you moved the PTO shaft counter clockwise and I’m basing this off of the manual which states the engine runs in a counter clockwise rotation viewed from the PTO shaft side meaning where your centrifugal clutch or torque converter would mount to on a go kart for example. PTO stands for power takeoff and its usually said as power take off shaft. This is obviously on the opposite side of the flywheel where the pull starter is. I just wanted to clarify this so someone didn’t need to ask later. Oh I wanted to add nothing wrong with taking the recoil starter off because it’s easier to move the engine in small amounts then having to use the pull rope but another option is to just turn it by the PTO shaft And even though there’s less leverage it won’t be a problem as long as you have the spark plug out.
Will this help after I installed a mikuni 22 mm carb? I began the upgrade today and the pull didn’t pull. I did watch this video on valves and I’m just confused with the adjust.( Probably because I’m missing tools) I got the valve cover and unscrewed the pulley cover off and began rotating. I didn’t unscrew the spark yet but I just want to know if these steps will help also getting the engine started. The engine is a hemi.
Valve lash is critical to the proper operation and performance of these engines. If not done properly the engine will be hard to pull over and not perform well
W Hen using bigger cams and heavier springs I will set my lash at .0015”. It makes it easier to pull with my weak arms. .003” is fine and will work for you
The problem with this is that many think the lash needs to be absolutely dead on a certain given number and it's just not the case. The reason to check/set lash is to verify it is not too tight or too loose. The .003" that many use is a good number because it's in between zero and the Honda GX200 spec. I have a 14 year old fairly low hour 196 utility engine that I set to GX200 lash spec (.006" intake .008" exhaust) when it was new and haven't touched it since. I'm not saying it's a great idea, just that it works. Some guys get more specific and carefully set to zero lash. I say good for them.
I love OMB warehouse and just came across this video I didn't know that you have put videos out on how to properly do mods on the predators and I would like to see a how to video on roller rockers and pushrods I know alot about engines but not small engines and I would like to learn about roller rockers and pushrod length
That is on my list! I don't have much "extra" time to get videos done! After hammering on a keyboard for 8+ hours every day there is not much gas left in my tank! I will get a video done soon
That is because you need to adjust the valve lash. Set both sides at .003”. The decompression lever on the exhaust valve is not relieving the pressure when pulling it over. Reset the lash and you will be fine!
Hi Barbie, Nope, that does not matter if using a 1:1 rocker arm. Depending what cam you have and whether you are using an aftermarket "ratio" rocker, we may spec a different spring rate. If you can be specific as to what combo you are using, I can make a more informed answer for you
I have no govoner a hot 365 cam with 22 lbs springs and a stage 2 and 1 kit. Can someone please tell me the correct spacing I need for each of the valves?
I recently did a ARC flywheel & valve springs. & a jet kit & filter. Now my 212 hemi had a serious kick back and I have to give it just a bit of throttle to start it! Would this valve adjustment help solve this problem? Any help would be appreciated
@@frank2887 yes I played around with it and I ended setting my exhaust valve at 0 flash actually just a slight bit of resistance on it. So now the exhaust valve opens a but sooner than the intake valve. We did a carburetor upgrade a spit rear sprocket with a 62 tooth and my son has best top speed of 54 mph he is 175 pounds. It's a little beast. But it totally fixed the pull kick back problem and starts super easy. I recently added a flywheel to my other son's 212 and set the valves the same way and it's great!
Two more things do you set both of the valve lash’s at top dead center? I heard you could also set the intake when the exhaust is full open and set the exhaust when the intake is Full open is that true?
@@bradflores7873 nope! Not true. Consider that both valves are closed when the the spark plug fires. Set the lash at top dead center on the compression stroke
Okay thank you very much and for top dead Center on the compression stroke that is when both of the rocker arms have a little bit of play in them when they are both not touching the valve springs correct?
The Gray Goat Garage i try this but now it feels like my engine has no compression.Im going to try again tonight and watch this video over.I have no problem setting the non hemi but this hemi engine is a little bit harder.I know I’ll get it right.
Hi Sam, Ya know, the Hemi is actually easier to set the lash on! It does not tighten up like the non-Hemi's do when tightening the jam nut. Just make sure you are on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke! Please let me know if I can do anything to help and you may get a quicker response by emailing me at HELP@OMBWarehouse.com
The Gray Goat Garage I finally got my gokart running great after watching this video while I was working on it.Thank you so much.I make super fast homemade go karts.my blue mini razor dune buggy is to fast to drive.
I did this step by step, turned on my engine and with the choke closed it sat at an idle, even when I used the throttle. And when I turned on the choke the rpms flung up. Was hoping you’d know the solution to the problem?
Sounds like the float is staying open in the carburetor flooding your engine with fuel or you have wayyy to big of a jet in the carb, i believe .035, .036, and .037 are good starter jets for a low modded 212 or get a new carb
Nice video GG! Is that 0.003 lash gap the same on the WC 223 stock without a cam change? I am doing a once over on a WC prior to break in, and finding specs on it has proven TOUGH
I set all of my engines at .002” to .003” regardless of what cam they have These engines expand when hot and the lash will open up. Set it tight and the engine will be easier to start and perform better!
Hello, That is correct! Anytime you pull the head or open the case you will need to adjust the lash. This is also something that should be done as periodic maintenance. Set intake and exhaust at .003" when cold. Please let me know if you have additional questions
I adjusted my valves on a new Predator 212 HEMI before seeing your video. I was not aware of the decompression device on cam and didn't have crankshaft at TDC. Now engine won't pull start. I removed spark plug and pull cord. It is not hydro locked. What do i need to do to free up engine? Sure wish i had seen your video instead of others i watched. Thanks
Do I have to remove the head to get it out or just the side plate? What do i need to do about compression device on cam when putting back together? Thanks for any help
S Falana you need to pull the head to remove the valve. The retainers can fail especially when the lash is not correctly. The decompression lever on the cam relies on the correct lash setting to work properly. Too loose on the lash and the lever will not burp the exhaust valve open making is very difficult to pull the engine over
Hi Rick, set valve lash cold at .003" on intake and exhaust. make sure the engine is on the compression stroke and at top dead center when setting this. I am always here to help at HELP@OMBWarehouse.com
@@TheGrayGoatGarage there is no way this can be correct because i have set my lash at .003 with my new cam and it almost broke my wrist. my lash had to be set at tight as in .ooo on exhaust and .001 on intake in order for it to pull correct
Honda 18# springs are $10 for the pair www.ombwarehouse.com/honda-gx200-18-lb-valve-spring.html please let me know if you have additional questions. Please note these will not work in the Predator 212 Hemi engine. They will coil bind
Hi Chris, The valve spring pressure has nothing to do with lash. Set both sides at .003" on the compression stroke and you will be fine! Please let me know if I can help with anything else
OMB helped me build my first bike, and I'm FOREVER GRATEFUL.
Apparently, the Grey Goat was helping me over the phone,and If I recall, Email.
But, this is the First Video I've Seen.
Once again, The Goat Knows All...
I WAS thinking : "Why's that fat guy taking the recoil cover off" !!
Thank You For Everything,Grey Goat.
You are a Gentleman,as well as a Master.
I spent a long time on the phone and on email with OMB and ended up learning exactly what I needed to customize my non-hemi 212. He sent me the links for all 10 new parts he thought met my needs, so I ordered them all from him.
Can't wait for the mail now.
This goat knows what he's doing. Any questions I have he will be there to answer. Subscribed.
Hi John,
This is Eric...the Gray Goat. Thank you very much for the kind words...much appreciated!
It is not so much that I know what I am doing...more of I have learned from all the mistakes I have made! I have a garage full! LOL We are also here to provide support after the sale. You can always email me at HELP@OMBWarehouse.com and I can help you with whatever questions you have
@@TheGrayGoatGarage
We are eager as little kids to get this. We're both retired. Speed in small, intense packages still make us grin.
Great informative video. I've never worked on small engines and have been rebuilding my predator 212cc and running it to death without an exhaust 😂 I've been having arm tearing recoil and no start, first thought it was a valve crunching issue, verified nothing was bent, and then figured it was a massive amount of compression and finally decided to find out how to ACTUALLY set valve lash haha.
Haha! So happy to be able to help! Lash is critical with these engines!
Hey I'm having the same issue, but .003 didn't work for me. I have to have around .006 for it to not want to hurt me
Nice, once again omb warehouse beats out go power sports and their resident dumb dumb, red beard... this video show the entire process without the mistakes and word swaps that plagues red beard
Very helpful just changed my first set of springs and it wouldn't start.I need to do this.Thanks for this video.
Very happy to be able to help you! You can also email me at HELP@OMBWarehouse.com if I can help with anything else
That bit about the decompression tang made my day! I couldn’t figure out why my damn exhaust valve was open when it shouldn’t be.
THANKS!!
LOL! Thanks Max!
Makes me happy to know that I can help! Let me know if you have any other questions and I will do my best for you!
Thanks for making this video!
Haha now I see this video, it was still really cool getting a email from you.
Awesome video. Right to the point.
Thanks for the help, my cam fell out when I was removing the governor and so I lined up the dots on the cam but was hard to pull, so I looked up what was needed and used this video.
Did that fix your issue?
Yes, it running fine now
Romeo Ramirez thank you
Need help my predator 212cc brand new, valve lash is good and stage 1 kit. When I full throttle it accelerate fast but then stop and then wants to go and stop and goes again I don’t know what to do
Idol out the carb maybe
I upgraded to the 18# springs and I've adjusted the valves, both @ .003 then installed the carb jet kit... now my engine pops when I accelerate. Did I maybe put the carb gaskets back on wrong... or ??? - PUZZLED. :( Oh, and I added an OMB header w/weenie muffler.
Mine does the same thing, it seems ok as long as the pops don’t sound violent. If there sort of soft it’s ok
maybe running rich adjust carb needle ik its 2 yrs later lol
@5:10 hey great video by the way but I just wanted to throw a slight clarification out there that you meant to say turn the engine counterclockwise instead of clockwise but i think you only accidentally said clockwise because you were thinking what direction the cam gear was getting moved in. No big deal because if people are looking close enough they can see that you moved the PTO shaft counter clockwise and I’m basing this off of the manual which states the engine runs in a counter clockwise rotation viewed from the PTO shaft side meaning where your centrifugal clutch or torque converter would mount to on a go kart for example. PTO stands for power takeoff and its usually said as power take off shaft. This is obviously on the opposite side of the flywheel where the pull starter is. I just wanted to clarify this so someone didn’t need to ask later. Oh I wanted to add nothing wrong with taking the recoil starter off because it’s easier to move the engine in small amounts then having to use the pull rope but another option is to just turn it by the PTO shaft And even though there’s less leverage it won’t be a problem as long as you have the spark plug out.
Dude why in the f*** can I not get the last cap set right. I did exactly what you did and it's still about to break my hand
That intro was awesome!
thanks... that was exactly the info i needed.. im so damn frustrated with these valves on this tillotson 212!!!
What should I set it to if I have a stage 1 kit installed as well as governor removed
Thanks! Answered me so many questions!
Thank you so much Gray Goat.
I just installed stage 2 into a non hemi predator and the pullstart pulls back really hard after you pull, do you know why this is?
If valve lashes are set correctly what else could cause a hard pull? My engine has the governor taken out could that be the cause?
How do you know fore sure when your at TDC on a Predator 3500 generator when you can't get to the crank nut? Thanks
At 7:29 the GG heard a familiar sound from a darker side of life and commented in Daddy Mode! 😂😂😂
How come when I set with a feeler gauge I have too much compression
I’m confused what are you turning besides the lock nut with the bigger wrench?
I am using a “spoke wrench” for bicycles. You can also use a small crescent wrench or even pliers on the small square head on the adjuster
@@TheGrayGoatGarage oh ok I see, thank you!
Will this help after I installed a mikuni 22 mm carb? I began the upgrade today and the pull didn’t pull. I did watch this video on valves and I’m just confused with the adjust.( Probably because I’m missing tools) I got the valve cover and unscrewed the pulley cover off and began rotating. I didn’t unscrew the spark yet but I just want to know if these steps will help also getting the engine started. The engine is a hemi.
Valve lash is critical to the proper operation and performance of these engines. If not done properly the engine will be hard to pull over and not perform well
Can you use eney other one then
.003 cose I onley have one that goes to .011
W
Hen using bigger cams and heavier springs I will set my lash at .0015”. It makes it easier to pull with my weak arms. .003” is fine and will work for you
Love u man thanks for the help
I set mine and It keeps trying to rip my arm off
Where are you getting these numbers for valve lash clearances? If I've searched 50 different sources I've got 50 different answers.
The .003" figure is what DynoCams suggests for most of their cams.
I have also been known to build a few engines to know what works.
The problem with this is that many think the lash needs to be absolutely dead on a certain given number and it's just not the case. The reason to check/set lash is to verify it is not too tight or too loose. The .003" that many use is a good number because it's in between zero and the Honda GX200 spec.
I have a 14 year old fairly low hour 196 utility engine that I set to GX200 lash spec (.006" intake .008" exhaust) when it was new and haven't touched it since. I'm not saying it's a great idea, just that it works. Some guys get more specific and carefully set to zero lash. I say good for them.
wait did he tighten both of the valves both at .003?
Yes, lash on both sides should be set at .003". This will make the engine easier to start and run better!
Don't you need the intake valve closed before adjusting it???
I love OMB warehouse and just came across this video I didn't know that you have put videos out on how to properly do mods on the predators and I would like to see a how to video on roller rockers and pushrods I know alot about engines but not small engines and I would like to learn about roller rockers and pushrod length
That is on my list! I don't have much "extra" time to get videos done! After hammering on a keyboard for 8+ hours every day there is not much gas left in my tank! I will get a video done soon
I changed springs to 18lbs on my hemi, and now when i pull its hard and nearly rips my arm off
That is because you need to adjust the valve lash. Set both sides at .003”. The decompression lever on the exhaust valve is not relieving the pressure when pulling it over. Reset the lash and you will be fine!
Now can this be used for ANY spring set up ?
If I install 18lb springs does it matter what rocket arms goes where I’m new to this
Hi Barbie,
Nope, that does not matter if using a 1:1 rocker arm.
Depending what cam you have and whether you are using an aftermarket "ratio" rocker, we may spec a different spring rate.
If you can be specific as to what combo you are using, I can make a more informed answer for you
I have no govoner a hot 365 cam with 22 lbs springs and a stage 2 and 1 kit. Can someone please tell me the correct spacing I need for each of the valves?
I've heard .004 and .006, .005 and .007, .006 and .008. Now in this video .003 and .003. Seems no one knows the correct numbers.
Just do .003 it works with most upgrades.
I recently did a ARC flywheel & valve springs. & a jet kit & filter. Now my 212 hemi had a serious kick back and I have to give it just a bit of throttle to start it! Would this valve adjustment help solve this problem? Any help would be appreciated
Did you ever fix the problem? I'm having the same issue it also gets really hard to pull.
@@frank2887 yes I played around with it and I ended setting my exhaust valve at 0 flash actually just a slight bit of resistance on it. So now the exhaust valve opens a but sooner than the intake valve. We did a carburetor upgrade a spit rear sprocket with a 62 tooth and my son has best top speed of 54 mph he is 175 pounds. It's a little beast. But it totally fixed the pull kick back problem and starts super easy. I recently added a flywheel to my other son's 212 and set the valves the same way and it's great!
Hi I just installed a .275 lift cam and on the box it says valve lash cold .001 and just want to make sure that’s correct or should I do .003?
You can set the lash anywhere from .001 to .003” with no issues. I will usually set my lash at .002” and have no issues
Thank you and Do you set the valve lash on the exhaust and intake at the same adjustment?
Two more things do you set both of the valve lash’s at top dead center? I heard you could also set the intake when the exhaust is full open and set the exhaust when the intake is Full open is that true?
@@bradflores7873 nope! Not true. Consider that both valves are closed when the the spark plug fires. Set the lash at top dead center on the compression stroke
Okay thank you very much and for top dead Center on the compression stroke that is when both of the rocker arms have a little bit of play in them when they are both not touching the valve springs correct?
Great video.I need to do the same thing to my engine.
Thank you! Please let me know if I can do anything to help you
The Gray Goat Garage i try this but now it feels like my engine has no compression.Im going to try again tonight and watch this video over.I have no problem setting the non hemi but this hemi engine is a little bit harder.I know I’ll get it right.
Hi Sam,
Ya know, the Hemi is actually easier to set the lash on! It does not tighten up like the non-Hemi's do when tightening the jam nut. Just make sure you are on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke! Please let me know if I can do anything to help and you may get a quicker response by emailing me at HELP@OMBWarehouse.com
The Gray Goat Garage I finally got my gokart running great after watching this video while I was working on it.Thank you so much.I make super fast homemade go karts.my blue mini razor dune buggy is to fast to drive.
so what if youre having hard pull starts and kickback but its stock?
Adjust your valves! 99,9% of the time a hard pull is directly related to valve lash
I did this step by step, turned on my engine and with the choke closed it sat at an idle, even when I used the throttle. And when I turned on the choke the rpms flung up. Was hoping you’d know the solution to the problem?
Sounds like the float is staying open in the carburetor flooding your engine with fuel or you have wayyy to big of a jet in the carb, i believe .035, .036, and .037 are good starter jets for a low modded 212 or get a new carb
what was the problem ?
Nice video GG! Is that 0.003 lash gap the same on the WC 223 stock without a cam change? I am doing a once over on a WC prior to break in, and finding specs on it has proven TOUGH
I set all of my engines at .002” to .003” regardless of what cam they have
These engines expand when hot and the lash will open up. Set it tight and the engine will be easier to start and perform better!
Thank u for the info
Thank you for choosing OMB WAREHOUSE.
Should you need any further information, please do not hesitate to contact me.
What’s That Name Of That Special Tool Your Using If You Don’t Mind Me Asking
The toll I use to half the adjuster is a “spoke wrench” for 3mm bicycle spokes. You can use a small crescent wrench too. I just like tools!
I'm assuming you'd want to readjust the valve lash after installing a thinner head gasket, correct?
Hello,
That is correct! Anytime you pull the head or open the case you will need to adjust the lash. This is also something that should be done as periodic maintenance. Set intake and exhaust at .003" when cold.
Please let me know if you have additional questions
What side feeler guages
you went counter clockwise when you turned the craankshft
I adjusted my valves on a new Predator 212 HEMI before seeing your video. I was not aware of the decompression device on cam and didn't have crankshaft at TDC. Now engine won't pull start. I removed spark plug and pull cord. It is not hydro locked. What do i need to do to free up engine? Sure wish i had seen your video instead of others i watched. Thanks
I can see now that the exhaust valve has dropped into cylinder away from rocker arm. Why didn't the retainer on top of spring keep it in place?
Do I have to remove the head to get it out or just the side plate? What do i need to do about compression device on cam when putting back together? Thanks for any help
S Falana you need to pull the head to remove the valve. The retainers can fail especially when the lash is not correctly. The decompression lever on the cam relies on the correct lash setting to work properly. Too loose on the lash and the lever will not burp the exhaust valve open making is very difficult to pull the engine over
What would the valve lash be for the 212cc non Hemi?
Hi Rick,
set valve lash cold at .003" on intake and exhaust. make sure the engine is on the compression stroke and at top dead center when setting this.
I am always here to help at HELP@OMBWarehouse.com
@@TheGrayGoatGarage would it be the same valve lash .003 with 18lb Springs?.
The spring rate has no effect on the lash. It is the same .003" with a 10.8# spring and a 36# spring!
@@TheGrayGoatGarage Ok thank you.
@@TheGrayGoatGarage there is no way this can be correct because i have set my lash at .003 with my new cam and it almost broke my wrist. my lash had to be set at tight as in .ooo on exhaust and .001 on intake in order for it to pull correct
I have a 212cc predator non hemi. Would it be the same?
My apologies. These links don't allow me to know what video you are watching. Please let me know and I will do my best to help you
The Gray Goat Garage adjusting valves
I do it all the time! One day I will be good at it too!
Good video but awesome shirt
Grey goat were you in the navy?
Nope
the way you just
turned the crank is counter clockwise
.003 for both stock?
Yes. That is correct
my bad wasnt looking at the engine the right way
n
Need a price on 18lb valve springs please
Honda 18# springs are $10 for the pair
www.ombwarehouse.com/honda-gx200-18-lb-valve-spring.html
please let me know if you have additional questions. Please note these will not work in the Predator 212 Hemi engine. They will coil bind
🤔 What’s that mean when an old man runs 3 blue head boots and one standard chrome head bolt. 😮. The world may never know what the G/G is up to….😂
What are “head boots”?
@@TheGrayGoatGarage It’s head BOLTS when you are spelling with iPhones auto correct 😉
No help out the camera up close and say hey put this here naw that’s too much like work though everybody suck ass at explaining shit
Please send back a link to your video so we can get some tips from you on how to best get this done
When u copy keystone sciences intro
Keystone Sciences has a Goat for their logo?
Greecher The Creature why don’t you sit yo ass down lil boy😂this guy took his time to make a vid to inform you, not get criticized about his name.
@@TheGrayGoatGarage no no its a great intro I mean the song 😂
@@nate2443601 ok bitch
If I put 18lbs springs in will it still be set at.003?
Hi Chris,
The valve spring pressure has nothing to do with lash. Set both sides at .003" on the compression stroke and you will be fine! Please let me know if I can help with anything else
Thank you I'll try it....