This is video explaining the process of opening up the Technics SL-1200 pitch fader to remove the "zero click" and service of the fader fader in general.
any idea what the variable resistor specs are on the pitch fader PCB? i believe it's called VR302, and it's 50kOhms. but i'm not sure what the current rating is. might need to replace mine and the other option is to replace the whole PCB
I have a technics mk5 with a scratchy pitch. I was wondering if I need the lube, spray, or cleaner and lube. Its extremely expensive. But i wanna do it. Any idea which i should try first??
¿Hola como estás? Muy bueno tu video quería saber si puedes ayudarme con un problema comprendo un par de mk2 1200 y tengo el siguiente problema, regule el pitch a 2,7 k como dice el manual de fabrica, esta como corrido en 1+ seria en el rango Del pitch en 2, +6 si esta bien ahora, en -1 me da -2.5 -3. Si muevo el potenciometro del lanzamiento que tiene que estar en 2,7 se acomoda, pero sigue el corrido en -, el quejar dejó de fabrica, la sonda removiendo el cable naranja del paso es lo mismo, removiendo la resistencia r209 y es lo mismo, con Los time code me sirve para regular porque miro en la pc el rango y me sirve de guia pero no consigio dejarlos orignales, quiero que en -3.3 me quede ese valor y no -5, que en -1 mar -1 no -2, 5, cuando lo pongo en +1 me da 0.5 +, que tengo que hacer? Hay alguna manera de acomodar esto? Y que queden de fabrica ?? Aguardo tu respuesta muchisimas gracias
Hello how are you? Very good your video wanted to know if you can help me with a problem I understand a pair of mk2 1200 and I have the following problem, adjust the pitch to 2.7 k as the factory manual says, it is run in 1+ serious in the Del range Pitch in 2, +6 if it's good now, -1 gives me -2.5 -3. If I move the potentiometer of the launch that has to be in 2.7 it accommodates, but it continues the run in -, the complaint stopped factory, the probe removing the orange cable of the step is the same, removing the resistance r209 and it is the same , With The time code serves me to regulate because I look at the pc the range and it serves as a guide but I can not leave them orignals, I want that in -3.3 I have that value and not -5, that in -1 mar -1 no - 2, 5, when I put it in +1 it gives me 0.5 +, what do I have to do? Is there any way to accommodate this? And that they are of factory ?? I await your response many thanks
Hi. I have a problem with a pitch with my 1210 mk2. In practice the problem is the double zero. With the pitch at zero (and the LED on) it turns perfectly, when i accelerate with the pitch in the Moment that the led turns off instead of going faster, the turntable slows down to return to a new zero on a value of about +2.5. It holds the +6 and +3.3 very well, a little less the -3.3 but it is at acceptable levels. Searching on the web I found various tutorials to solve my problem, the point is that when I connect the multimeter to the pitch (obviously disconnected from the turntable) I have an X value, and going to modify the VR302 trimmer that value should modify right? To me it remains fixed and constant. The tests I have carried out are the following: I have completely replaced the pitch, putting the One of my other turntable, and it works perfectly, so I rule out problems with the motherboard or others stuffs of the turntable. With the Multimeter attached to the Brown and Red of the pitch (disconnected from the turntable) I tried to move the pitch fader and the value changes (so apparently the fader is good) but with the same configuration by acting on the vr302 the value remains fixed and constant (so apparently the vr302 doesn't work). At that point I connected the Multimeter to the vr302 and rotating it the value changes, so apparently it is good. I am also going crazy because if there was something to replace I would not know what specifically, and with the times that are running I do not want to spend more than I should. 😬 Sorry if I wrote a lot but I hope I have explained the problem well and what tests I did.
Hey did you overcome the problem you were having?! I have the same issue with V302 , ie I cant zero to 2.7KOhm at center.. (0 (2.7KOhm sits at around +2 Pitch..) I bought a new aftermarket fader but havnt bothered tying it yet since, I like you suspect V302 is dodge..or something else! Before I buy more parts dig deeper im looking for answers ... so what did you do! :D anyone?? Tips?!?
Hi, I followed all the steps until the ohms calibration which gave me 1 or below all the time no matter the position of the fader (i double checked cables, red to brown and black to red), you think it could be the little rotating thing? (VR302 component) or should I replace the hole fader...
You want to put the probes of your meter on the red and brown wires coming off of the fader board and measure it with the fader in the zero position. Then you will adjust the VR302 pot to get 2.7k ohms. If you are finding that you can't set that number it may be an indication that the carbon tracks inside the fader may be worn beyond the point of working properly. Normally if you clean this fader and calibrate is, when you measure on the red and brown wires you should find 2.7k ohms at the zero position then a smooth transistion up to about 18-20k ohms in the upper range and down to like 20 ohms in the lower range.
Is the only way to clean an old sticky fader to open it up like you did here and clean it? I tried using deoxit faderlube f5 but I think the issue is that any dirty or grime is still inside the fader.
Yes. DeOxit will only get you so far. Once dirt and grime gets mixed with whatever lube is in there, it's gets sticky on the fader tracks and brushes and will feed the direct drive system weird readings so the pitch won't stay steady. Once opened and cleaned fully and re done with Fader Lube it should provide many years of trouble free service.
JoHnNy t yes it does. I did it. It didn’t affect anything. In stead removing the pitch slider from the board. You can also use a middle os something to push in the small ball and the spring. Put some pressure against it till you fill there is no resistance and you’ll be fine. I did that to my 2nd TT
Michael Turner sorry I meant to say use a mini pick tool to push the ball bearing. Put some pressure in to it. And you’ll feel it. It won’t click at the 0 position.
Well you have to remember that at a certain point the ball is going to click in so your reading my vary, but the factory setting is 2.7k from Technics. You may need to do some better cleaning or if it seems fine, leave it alone.
SWARE I think that only happens with the old pitch sliders. The new ones as soon you move + or - you start getting a different reading. I have an mk5 and the pitch slider it’s also smother. An easy to beat match
use silicone grease, Deoxit make a product call " Deoxit Fader grease" part # DFG-213, its specifically designed for electronics that have a mechanical mechanism that requires slip and resistance between plastic and metal. Do not use petroleum based greases
Yeah at a certain point though everything gets in there! You should see some of the crap I've cleaned out of them. Best one so far was a customer that spilled a vodka redbull and what looked like grenadine inside the table. I literally disassembled the fader much like this one and had to scrub the board with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush just to get all the syrup out hahaha.
i just bought a sl-1200mk2-xa, and i just can't figure out what's going on. i got the slider right here in my hand, and the red and brown wires are reading as open no matter what setting i slide it on. the green led never comes on, and there is no way to control the platter speed whatsoever. i'm just wondering if there's so much gunk in it, or does the slider need replacing. even on the click locked green led position has no effect on speed, and the green led doesn't come on.
To be honest I have a different setup now for working on these when they are flipped over now and I was just trying to shoot a video for people to understand the process. I hope at least the info on the fader was informative.
@@commonbeatmusic1290 Thx for your Answer. The Video is brilliant, one of the best tutorials ive seen. Hope that no one imitate this one step ;-) (Sorry for my english, not my native language - dont want to be rude or so)
Absolutely FANTASTIC close-up footage of your hair, scalp, and hair follicles!
When you do it in one take and your camera rig is an iPhone stuck onto a mic stand.....hair is what ya get !!!
@@RockNRollHouseFilms Good informative video though. Thanks Carlo!
Nice hair :)
any idea what the variable resistor specs are on the pitch fader PCB? i believe it's called VR302, and it's 50kOhms. but i'm not sure what the current rating is. might need to replace mine and the other option is to replace the whole PCB
I have a technics mk5 with a scratchy pitch. I was wondering if I need the lube, spray, or cleaner and lube. Its extremely expensive. But i wanna do it. Any idea which i should try first??
Is it me or you green light didn’t turned on? Nice vid. Thx
Caig warns against using deoxit on carbon tracks. Deoxit creates grip which accelerates wear. Fader lube is preferred here. NIce detailed video.
I only use Deoxit to clean off the dirt and grime then I wipe it clean
Would you use that in addition to grease?
¿Hola como estás? Muy bueno tu video quería saber si puedes ayudarme con un problema comprendo un par de mk2 1200 y tengo el siguiente problema, regule el pitch a 2,7 k como dice el manual de fabrica, esta como corrido en 1+ seria en el rango Del pitch en 2, +6 si esta bien ahora, en -1 me da -2.5 -3. Si muevo el potenciometro del lanzamiento que tiene que estar en 2,7 se acomoda, pero sigue el corrido en -, el quejar dejó de fabrica, la sonda removiendo el cable naranja del paso es lo mismo, removiendo la resistencia r209 y es lo mismo, con Los time code me sirve para regular porque miro en la pc el rango y me sirve de guia pero no consigio dejarlos orignales, quiero que en -3.3 me quede ese valor y no -5, que en -1 mar -1 no -2, 5, cuando lo pongo en +1 me da 0.5 +, que tengo que hacer? Hay alguna manera de acomodar esto? Y que queden de fabrica ?? Aguardo tu respuesta muchisimas gracias
Hello how are you? Very good your video wanted to know if you can help me with a problem I understand a pair of mk2 1200 and I have the following problem, adjust the pitch to 2.7 k as the factory manual says, it is run in 1+ serious in the Del range Pitch in 2, +6 if it's good now, -1 gives me -2.5 -3. If I move the potentiometer of the launch that has to be in 2.7 it accommodates, but it continues the run in -, the complaint stopped factory, the probe removing the orange cable of the step is the same, removing the resistance r209 and it is the same , With The time code serves me to regulate because I look at the pc the range and it serves as a guide but I can not leave them orignals, I want that in -3.3 I have that value and not -5, that in -1 mar -1 no - 2, 5, when I put it in +1 it gives me 0.5 +, what do I have to do? Is there any way to accommodate this? And that they are of factory ?? I await your response many thanks
Why green light doesn't turn on in zero position? But it works with zero button.
Hi. I have a problem with a pitch with my 1210 mk2. In practice the problem is the double zero. With the pitch at zero (and the LED on) it turns perfectly, when i accelerate with the pitch in the Moment that the led turns off instead of going faster, the turntable slows down to return to a new zero on a value of about +2.5. It holds the +6 and +3.3 very well, a little less the -3.3 but it is at acceptable levels.
Searching on the web I found various tutorials to solve my problem, the point is that when I connect the multimeter to the pitch (obviously disconnected from the turntable) I have an X value, and going to modify the VR302 trimmer that value should modify right? To me it remains fixed and constant.
The tests I have carried out are the following:
I have completely replaced the pitch, putting the One of my other turntable, and it works perfectly, so I rule out problems with the motherboard or others stuffs of the turntable.
With the Multimeter attached to the Brown and Red of the pitch (disconnected from the turntable) I tried to move the pitch fader and the value changes (so apparently the fader is good) but with the same configuration by acting on the vr302 the value remains fixed and constant (so apparently the vr302 doesn't work).
At that point I connected the Multimeter to the vr302 and rotating it the value changes, so apparently it is good.
I am also going crazy because if there was something to replace I would not know what specifically, and with the times that are running I do not want to spend more than I should. 😬
Sorry if I wrote a lot but I hope I have explained the problem well and what tests I did.
Hey did you overcome the problem you were having?! I have the same issue with V302 , ie I cant zero to 2.7KOhm at center.. (0 (2.7KOhm sits at around +2 Pitch..) I bought a new aftermarket fader but havnt bothered tying it yet since, I like you suspect V302 is dodge..or something else! Before I buy more parts dig deeper im looking for answers ... so what did you do! :D anyone?? Tips?!?
Hi, I followed all the steps until the ohms calibration which gave me 1 or below all the time no matter the position of the fader (i double checked cables, red to brown and black to red), you think it could be the little rotating thing? (VR302 component) or should I replace the hole fader...
You want to put the probes of your meter on the red and brown wires coming off of the fader board and measure it with the fader in the zero position. Then you will adjust the VR302 pot to get 2.7k ohms. If you are finding that you can't set that number it may be an indication that the carbon tracks inside the fader may be worn beyond the point of working properly. Normally if you clean this fader and calibrate is, when you measure on the red and brown wires you should find 2.7k ohms at the zero position then a smooth transistion up to about 18-20k ohms in the upper range and down to like 20 ohms in the lower range.
Thanks a lot!
I wouldn’t let you anywhere near my decks! Just flipping it onto its tonearm 😳 how come you never set the frequency after setting the resistance??
Is the only way to clean an old sticky fader to open it up like you did here and clean it? I tried using deoxit faderlube f5 but I think the issue is that any dirty or grime is still inside the fader.
Yes. DeOxit will only get you so far. Once dirt and grime gets mixed with whatever lube is in there, it's gets sticky on the fader tracks and brushes and will feed the direct drive system weird readings so the pitch won't stay steady. Once opened and cleaned fully and re done with Fader Lube it should provide many years of trouble free service.
@@commonbeatmusic1290 Man, now I got 3 of these things I gotta open up and service lol. Thanks for advice bro, peace
Do you have to install a new light..yours isn't working in video..(green fader) light?..
Yeah it turned out the light was bad, I shot this video in one take so I didn't want to go all the way back through it again hahaha
YES, THE GREEN LIGHT KEEPS WORKING! HE HAD A FAULTY ONE!
Does led light on fader still work after removing ball? Great vid
It does. Since the center of the fader throw "clicks in" mechanically all the regular functions of the fader stay the same.
JoHnNy t yes it does. I did it. It didn’t affect anything. In stead removing the pitch slider from the board. You can also use a middle os something to push in the small ball and the spring. Put some pressure against it till you fill there is no resistance and you’ll be fine. I did that to my 2nd TT
@@rsanchez7111 Sorry use a middle what to Push it?
Michael Turner sorry I meant to say use a mini pick tool to push the ball bearing. Put some pressure in to it. And you’ll feel it. It won’t click at the 0 position.
If its possible use Penny & Giles fader, super SMOOTH.
Yootjoob Jajaja
My zero point is at 3,10 while on 0% and is perfectly at 33/45rpm ..is it wrong that it's not 2,70 ?
Well you have to remember that at a certain point the ball is going to click in so your reading my vary, but the factory setting is 2.7k from Technics. You may need to do some better cleaning or if it seems fine, leave it alone.
When I set it to 2.7k it's not 0% while green light is on.
You may have some dirt or grit stuck in the fader making it read falsely, I would disassemble and clean it as per this video.
SWARE I think that only happens with the old pitch sliders. The new ones as soon you move + or - you start getting a different reading. I have an mk5 and the pitch slider it’s also smother. An easy to beat match
what type of grease do you use ?
Electronics grade grease/lube
use silicone grease, Deoxit make a product call " Deoxit Fader grease" part # DFG-213, its specifically designed for electronics that have a mechanical mechanism that requires slip and resistance between plastic and metal. Do not use petroleum based greases
@@commonbeatmusic1290 I think he was talking about your hair lol
Christ how much grease ? Is that fader lube ? Hope so
It looks heavier that it is.
What I do is put a shading cloth from Technics which will go under the base also between the fader and top plate for more protection!
Yeah at a certain point though everything gets in there! You should see some of the crap I've cleaned out of them. Best one so far was a customer that spilled a vodka redbull and what looked like grenadine inside the table. I literally disassembled the fader much like this one and had to scrub the board with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush just to get all the syrup out hahaha.
At that point, would it be better to just replace the fader?
Most of them don't need replacement when they are easy enough to pull apart and clean. Save the 35 bucks.
i just bought a sl-1200mk2-xa, and i just can't figure out what's going on. i got the slider right here in my hand, and the red and brown wires are reading as open no matter what setting i slide it on. the green led never comes on, and there is no way to control the platter speed whatsoever. i'm just wondering if there's so much gunk in it, or does the slider need replacing. even on the click locked green led position has no effect on speed, and the green led doesn't come on.
it may be time for a new slider. make sure you get one for an MK2
Ah, thanks for the advice.
dope
MY 1200 MK2 DOESNT CLICK. I GOT A FEELING THAT THE PITCH HAS BEEN REPLACED WITH A MK5 PITCH OR THE BEARING AND SPRING HAS BEEN REMOVED.
The specs for the Mk2 and Mk5 pitch faders are pretty much the same other than one has the "click" window and the other does not
I lost you completely when you flip the deck and throw it on the tonearm. Thats an absolute nogo :-(
To be honest I have a different setup now for working on these when they are flipped over now and I was just trying to shoot a video for people to understand the process. I hope at least the info on the fader was informative.
@@commonbeatmusic1290 Thx for your Answer. The Video is brilliant, one of the best tutorials ive seen. Hope that no one imitate this one step ;-) (Sorry for my english, not my native language - dont want to be rude or so)
Nice hair. :^)
tbh, theres nothing wrong with quartz lock. BUT, Its the mxing around it thats annoying lol.
Well the nice thing is that with the click ball removed it still has the quartz lock in the direct center of the fader throw.
It's not a fader, it's a slider. It doesn't fade anithing.
You’ve got lice