Wow. Genius! One of the reasons I use my resin printers way less is the hassle of emptying the vats cleaning everything shaking it all up and pouring it in the vat again. Its not unusual that I may be in my filament printing mode and not walk back to the resin printers for a week or a little more…..what a great solution can’t wait to d/l and use it.
This is so simple and genius and I'm surprised no one came to this until now. I bought my 3d printer a two weeks ago, and after 2 cycles of vat cleaning and resin remixing thought about this and God bless you there is a ready solution)
I'm mindblown! I don't know why this is not an integrated feature in most printers haha One quick tip for people using slicer to do it - just scale your object on the Z axis and you will get as close to infinate as possible :D For the Quick Mix you can choose duaration by adjusting object height. TableFlip Foundry just earned a big fan and subscriber!
If you scale the object too high. The build plate will eventually raise until it stops going into the resin. I also have no idea why this isn't integrated into firmware yet! UV tools did add a setting for mixing now though!
You (& Reap_sin) have brought a game changer to the resin 3D Printing world. Fantastic work with this new addition and just like the Cones of Calibration, this is such a positive & useful addition to the industry for all. Not all heroes wear capes... But they do seem to wear pretty fun t-shirts in their videos😉. Keep up the epic work!!
this is awesome ive been doing this by hand, before printing i go to tools, move z raise 10mm then 1mm then i go down 10mm up 10, over and over till im happy its mixed, right on saves me the hassel
Ha! I KNEW I was on to something! Every time I turn my printer on after it's been sitting a while I will home the build plate and then manually move it up and down several times in an attempt to mix the resin up a bit
I did the same thing then I started taking my build plate off the arm and just used it to mix the resin by hand. That's when the idea came to automate it.
This is awesome! I've been using the "home" feature on my Anycubic printer 4-5 times before I print to do this exact same process, but having code/automation is a genius move!
That's really great, thanks I've already thought about how I can solve it. Your knowledge, tips and tricks are great as always. Thank you, best regards Robin Galli
Just starting out, but you have some of the most informational videos out there. Great Job ! Joined your discord and I am watching them all. Just about ready to try supports. Watched that one twice. Thanks for being so passionate about the hobby and your willingness to share with the community.
One thing I had to do for the QuickMix on Elegoo Saturn 2 was set "Wait After Lift" to 0. It seems like that setting was being applied to the burn in layers as well
You should be able to use the Gcode just fine on the Saturn 2. Its much better than the Lychee file. I run the 30 minute infinite mix on my five Saturn 2s constantly.
i change the line (490 - M6030 'print.ctb' ;Selects itself as the target to print next.) to (490 - M6030 'print.cxdlpv4' ;Selects itself as the target to print next.)
Redid this in 5.2.2. and if you have the 10 in normal layers (Anycubic mono 4k) for quick mix you will get a 600 sec exposure off and the printer will sit there for the 10 min. Set this to 0 for a quick mix. Don't know why it sees it when doing burnin layers.
My method - before I watch - lower my platen into the resin and then use the 5mm setting and raise and lower the platen in the resin a 20 or so times. Now to watch the video ... Yep - just added a bit of shorter distance jiggle and automated it. The automation is so simple and elegant. Building my profile right now! Thanks Ty and Reap_sin. 👏👏
Things like this makes me realise how spoiled I am using the printers at work that takes care of all this automatically (Formlabs printers in my case). Great tip though, will keep this in mind if ever my trigger finger gets itchy enough to get a printer to keep at home. It's been very close a few times...
Thanks for the nice solution. Maybe I may add this: In PrusaSlicer I was not able to slice an object outside of the plate (the slice command is greyed out). I found this trick: Place the object ON the plate and ADD a bigger NEGATIVE object all over it, so the object is fully enclosed. Now slicing is possible while nothing on the plate. Regards, Eef
Godsend. Wondering if the other half of headaches has been undermixing. Was doing the plate mix method but probably not long enough based on this gcode.
Neat tricks. I never drain vats, I was doing something real close to what you demonstrated using Lychee and slice/resin profile. The G-code option is awesome though, shame my print farm doesn't use it. As usual you always share some really good stuff.
Thanks for the great content... quick question, should I try to use your gcode, with water in the vat, to make sure it wont splash the resin every where? or just go for it? JC
it worked like a charm for my Anycubic Mono X, except that the lift and retract speed cannot be set faster than 20 mm/s. I tried several times with 99 mm/sec (maximum allowed in the software) but it kept changing automatically to 1mm/sec when printing. Once I figured that out and used the maximum speed of 20 it was a piece of cake. Txs a bunch.
Seems like an amazing out-of-the-box thinking to solve a small, but annoying problem. I would love to use something like this, however, I don't see some of those options in Lychee for my Creality Halot Lite. I never thought to use the build plate to displace more resin to mix faster though. Thanks for your work!
Just tried that on my Anycubic Photon Mono X 6Ks and I followed the guide to the letter but it didn't work for me. Well back to good old hand mixing. But a great idea no the less!
I don’t know man. I tried it again with a completely new resin profile followed all steps to the letter again and nothing happens. The plate lowers to burn the first nonexistent layer but never comes up again!
@@TableFlipFoundry might be a silly question, but are you using the Epax printer profile even though your printer is a Mono X? I have a Mono X too - there is a different settings setup than the Epax - I tried to mimic what you were doing, but mine setting didn’t work. Thanks. Ps great video either way
Would be nice if slice apps had an accurate measurement of the resin on vats. It shows, but very rarely it's accurate. I usually have to pour more resin than the slices calculates even counting with support waste.
Darn. I was hoping this video would be a solution to settled resin while printing, which is especially problematic for long thin prints like lithophanes.
I'm new to resin printing, and this is perfect for me. Would it be okay to copy the code from the 10 infinite mix loop up until the M6032 command into the GCode Start section of my Chitubox profile, before my default start line? This way, it will ensure a quick mix before every print.
@andreineagux unfortunately it likely won't work. I've never seen the gcode portion of chitubox work on any of the modern printers. You can surely try it though.
Update for Saturn 3 Ultra - .gcode doesn't seem to work. Auto mix sliced profile works but it's so fast that at maximum speed starts splashing resin so be careful! Thanks again for this game changing trick!
I absolutely agreed this is a pretty hacky way to do it. Even if they are unwilling to embed it in firmware, it would be good if they allowed use of the gcode in all printers.
chitubox wouldn't let me set exposure time to 0. only 0.0001. So I have set UV light power to 0, as well as put the object off the plate as shown. Hopefully same effect. Let's find out!
Hi! Any chance you will be porting the mixing files to the Mars 4 MAX? I'm using and loving it on my Mars 3, but I'm moving to a Mars 4 MAX and don't want to be without it! Unfortunately, the 4MAX uses a different file format.
This isn't the kind of thing you port to other machines. It will work if the machine takes gcode. It won't if it doesn't. But you can always use the lychee trick as a backup
OK so i have an Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra and I tried the Gcode and it flashed like it was going to run then nothing. I thought this printer handled gcode just fine? what am I missing?
How do I add mixnprint to my resin profile settings in chitubox? I can open the mixnprint gcode in notepad++ but I'm not sure where to paste it. Chitubox splits gcode into 3 boxes...start, interlayer, and end. Is it as easy as pasting everything before G21 in the start box?
any advice if you select the profile, hit print and it goes to the system update load screen followed by nothing happening? I use elegoo saturn 3 ultra's. This is done by USB, trying to send it through wifi crashes chitubox
@@TableFlipFoundry Just tried it. Works great. Worth exporting as a .Goo file and leaving it in memory if you have the function, as it saves time rendering every time.
Any idea why this won't work on my Elegoo Saturn 3 Saturn 3 Ultra? I press print on any of the gcode files and the LCD screen just flashed for a second then goes back to the file list. Choosing a normal print file starts a print as expected so the printer is functioning from the USB disk fine. I even tried copying the file to the internal storage and printing from there, same behavior.
The elegoo saturn 3 ultra does not run gcode unfortunately. Sadly, I have no control over which printers and which manufacturers allow for gcode to run. Maybe we should all make a big stink about it and see if we can get them to do a firmware upgrade to allow it, or better yet, incorporate it in their firmware by default!
@@TableFlipFoundry Interesting. Are you sure? I mean I use Chitubox for slicing/printing which I thought in the intro you said was gcode. It even mentions gcode in the program. I really thought they did but it gets weirder. I followed the slicer method and it still won't print :p I am almost starting to think they have some firmware in there that just refuses to print if it doesn't actually see anything to print, like LCD activity :( Very frustrating. I agree with others that this should be a built-in feature. Heck I should be able to have an option to run a quick mix before any print.
The magnetism itself? No. Only heating it up above its curie-temperature will affect the magnetism. But you'll never gonna reach that with resin printing, not even when heating up the chamber. But, *it sure will affect the **_adhesive_** used to stick the magnet on the build plate.* This because the resin will eventually (after a long time) eat away the adhesive and/or will be soaked into it. As such, this whole mixing with the build plate thing, should be seen as printing time and counts as such towards to end of life cycle of your magnetic flex plate (that is: for its adhesive). Of course it all depends on how long and how much you print otherwise, but those magnetic flex plates are to be considered consumables! The adhesive will eventually wear out and the magnet may come loose. When that happens you need to replace it (remove it and stick new magnet on). It also highly depends on how well you have stuck the magnet on to the build plate. That is: did you follow the proper procedure? Which involves properly cleaning the build plate, scuffing it up, etc, etc...And after applying the adhesive, NOT using the plate immediately, but let the adhesive cure for a day, under slight pressure and such(!). Experience from reading stuff on many fora, half the people don't do it properly (and have all kinds of problems later on because of it). So yeah, just be aware that if you have a magnetic flexible plate, such mixing will degrade the adhesive just like when you print normally. (Also never ever leave your magnetic build plate in the resin when you're not printing, nor in a bath of IPA or whatever... for the same reasons)
My Elegoo Mars 2 pro does not accept the QuickMix-TableFlip-Foundry.gcode file. When I chose to "print" it, it tells me not able to print it. What do I do wrong? Edit: The other mix files works great, only the one mentioned before does not work.
@@morgenkaffe unfortunately I don't have the capability to troubleshoot the mars2 at this time. Over time I will start to hear reports of which printers can and can't run the gcode. For now you will have to run the slicer alternative.
I like this idea but Infinite Mix cycle? NO. If your z-axis seizes during this (and btw the motion does reduce but not negate the chance of this) it might be days before you realise. Resin printer are susceptible to this and it's happened to me. Best to monitor any z-axis usage at least a bit.
Your advice is really good. Best to monitor your machines for SURE. But... I don't know. I have a 12 resin printers. I ran this on the 6 in my print farm for the last 6 months. Maybe combined 5 or 6 thousand hours of run time with no problems. I think you might be applying the exception to the rule here.
@@TableFlipFoundry Possibly. If you're running a print farm you're probably close to being in a continuous use cycle anyway. Many people have gaps in use of weeks followed by bursts of activity. I def wouldn't leave this running in such a usage gap. Cheers
Wow. Genius! One of the reasons I use my resin printers way less is the hassle of emptying the vats cleaning everything shaking it all up and pouring it in the vat again. Its not unusual that I may be in my filament printing mode and not walk back to the resin printers for a week or a little more…..what a great solution can’t wait to d/l and use it.
This is so simple and genius and I'm surprised no one came to this until now. I bought my 3d printer a two weeks ago, and after 2 cycles of vat cleaning and resin remixing thought about this and God bless you there is a ready solution)
I'm mindblown! I don't know why this is not an integrated feature in most printers haha
One quick tip for people using slicer to do it - just scale your object on the Z axis and you will get as close to infinate as possible :D For the Quick Mix you can choose duaration by adjusting object height.
TableFlip Foundry just earned a big fan and subscriber!
If you scale the object too high. The build plate will eventually raise until it stops going into the resin.
I also have no idea why this isn't integrated into firmware yet! UV tools did add a setting for mixing now though!
So glad for folks like Ty... in the community !Table flip vids are my go to when i get "frustrated " or forget something
You (& Reap_sin) have brought a game changer to the resin 3D Printing world. Fantastic work with this new addition and just like the Cones of Calibration, this is such a positive & useful addition to the industry for all.
Not all heroes wear capes... But they do seem to wear pretty fun t-shirts in their videos😉. Keep up the epic work!!
This is how I've always mixed my resin vat. Great idea to add auto print start I'll be using that from now on. 👍
this is awesome ive been doing this by hand, before printing i go to tools, move z raise 10mm then 1mm then i go down 10mm up 10, over and over till im happy its mixed, right on saves me the hassel
Ha! I KNEW I was on to something! Every time I turn my printer on after it's been sitting a while I will home the build plate and then manually move it up and down several times in an attempt to mix the resin up a bit
ha same =) we so smaaaartttt
I did the same thing then I started taking my build plate off the arm and just used it to mix the resin by hand. That's when the idea came to automate it.
This is awesome! I've been using the "home" feature on my Anycubic printer 4-5 times before I print to do this exact same process, but having code/automation is a genius move!
Awesome idea and video production! Will have to give this a go 😁
Thanks so much man! I appreciate your advice a ton! 💙💙💙
Great idea, good trick. I will try it today with a phrozen printer. Just a small contributions, at 11:23, 0.01 mm is 10 microns not 1.
That's really great, thanks I've already thought about how I can solve it. Your knowledge, tips and tricks are great as always.
Thank you, best regards
Robin Galli
Couldn't work out how to run the g-code on my LD-002r, the lychee tutorial was a lifesaver, thanks!
Glad it worked for ya!
Great tool to mix the resin. Thank you Ty and Reap_sin for your contribution and sharing!
This is a great idea. I have a Anycubic Mono 4 k and it does cycle, however it is slow. But, it is mixing! I love it.
Just starting out, but you have some of the most informational videos out there. Great Job ! Joined your discord and I am watching them all. Just about ready to try supports. Watched that one twice. Thanks for being so passionate about the hobby and your willingness to share with the community.
I just started resin printing and this is beautiful! I’m semi familiar with G-Code from my job so this is an amazing idea!
Thank you! I hope it works well for ya!
One thing I had to do for the QuickMix on Elegoo Saturn 2 was set "Wait After Lift" to 0. It seems like that setting was being applied to the burn in layers as well
You should be able to use the Gcode just fine on the Saturn 2. Its much better than the Lychee file.
I run the 30 minute infinite mix on my five Saturn 2s constantly.
This could be useful for mixing resin types too. Glad I found this video.
I have a Halot Mage and the mix and print worked out great!
i change the line (490 - M6030 'print.ctb' ;Selects itself as the target to print next.) to (490 - M6030 'print.cxdlpv4' ;Selects itself as the target to print next.)
TheResinLabs here checking this awesome video out! This looks so cool!!!
Ayyy!!! Glad you saw it! This can save ya tons of mixing time!
Redid this in 5.2.2. and if you have the 10 in normal layers (Anycubic mono 4k) for quick mix you will get a 600 sec exposure off and the printer will sit there for the 10 min. Set this to 0 for a quick mix. Don't know why it sees it when doing burnin layers.
I had an idea for a hardware solution to mix resin in the vat, but this is free and also better lol.
Learn a lot of skills about curing printers, thank you!
Absolutely brilliant!!!!!!
Great thing from great guy! Btw I love this mixing sound - when it’s doing small vibrations… wub-wub-wub! :)
My method - before I watch - lower my platen into the resin and then use the 5mm setting and raise and lower the platen in the resin a 20 or so times. Now to watch the video ...
Yep - just added a bit of shorter distance jiggle and automated it. The automation is so simple and elegant. Building my profile right now!
Thanks Ty and Reap_sin. 👏👏
Great stuff. Can confirm your discord is very helpful.
I will have to try that solution for my Anycubic. thank you so much Ty.
Things like this makes me realise how spoiled I am using the printers at work that takes care of all this automatically (Formlabs printers in my case). Great tip though, will keep this in mind if ever my trigger finger gets itchy enough to get a printer to keep at home. It's been very close a few times...
This is genius.
Thank you. You guys rock!
Thanks for the nice solution. Maybe I may add this:
In PrusaSlicer I was not able to slice an object outside of the plate (the slice command is greyed out).
I found this trick:
Place the object ON the plate and ADD a bigger NEGATIVE object all over it, so the object is fully enclosed. Now slicing is possible while nothing on the plate.
Regards, Eef
Godsend. Wondering if the other half of headaches has been undermixing. Was doing the plate mix method but probably not long enough based on this gcode.
Neat tricks. I never drain vats, I was doing something real close to what you demonstrated using Lychee and slice/resin profile. The G-code option is awesome though, shame my print farm doesn't use it. As usual you always share some really good stuff.
Thanks for the great content... quick question, should I try to use your gcode, with water in the vat, to make sure it wont splash the resin every where? or just go for it? JC
With water in the vat?? I wouldn't put water in the vat...
so no issues with resin splashing around....
I am awaiting a GK2, has not arrived yet! btw a complete newbie@@TableFlipFoundry
it worked like a charm for my Anycubic Mono X, except that the lift and retract speed cannot be set faster than 20 mm/s. I tried several times with 99 mm/sec (maximum allowed in the software) but it kept changing automatically to 1mm/sec when printing. Once I figured that out and used the maximum speed of 20 it was a piece of cake. Txs a bunch.
Good info! Glad it's working for ya!
Seems like an amazing out-of-the-box thinking to solve a small, but annoying problem. I would love to use something like this, however, I don't see some of those options in Lychee for my Creality Halot Lite. I never thought to use the build plate to displace more resin to mix faster though. Thanks for your work!
Chitubox does allow to insert G-Code in the resin parameters
Just tried that on my Anycubic Photon Mono X 6Ks and I followed the guide to the letter but it didn't work for me. Well back to good old hand mixing. But a great idea no the less!
I have the mono x and have used the lychee profile without issue.
I don’t know man. I tried it again with a completely new resin profile followed all steps to the letter again and nothing happens. The plate lowers to burn the first nonexistent layer but never comes up again!
@@TableFlipFoundry might be a silly question, but are you using the Epax printer profile even though your printer is a Mono X? I have a Mono X too - there is a different settings setup than the Epax - I tried to mimic what you were doing, but mine setting didn’t work. Thanks. Ps great video either way
Would be nice if slice apps had an accurate measurement of the resin on vats. It shows, but very rarely it's accurate. I usually have to pour more resin than the slices calculates even counting with support waste.
this is clever. sadly I have to clean up perfectly after every print. I'd need a cleaning station
;)
Darn. I was hoping this video would be a solution to settled resin while printing, which is especially problematic for long thin prints like lithophanes.
This is really clever ... I like it!
Genius. Well done sir.
Thank you and of course Reap for the help!
Seriously you need to patent that geode. This should be baked into every resin printer.
I'm new to resin printing, and this is perfect for me. Would it be okay to copy the code from the 10 infinite mix loop up until the M6032 command into the GCode Start section of my Chitubox profile, before my default start line? This way, it will ensure a quick mix before every print.
@andreineagux unfortunately it likely won't work. I've never seen the gcode portion of chitubox work on any of the modern printers. You can surely try it though.
Thank you thank you thank you, Ty!
Update for Saturn 3 Ultra - .gcode doesn't seem to work. Auto mix sliced profile works but it's so fast that at maximum speed starts splashing resin so be careful! Thanks again for this game changing trick!
Thanks for the update!
Very clever. Thanks!
6:38 for the Anycubic non Gcode solution
Would be great to have that embedded into the firmware of printers.
I absolutely agreed this is a pretty hacky way to do it. Even if they are unwilling to embed it in firmware, it would be good if they allowed use of the gcode in all printers.
I love you guys
How would you accomplish this on the Saturn 4? It has has very different settings in Lychee.
@@bmg50barrett74 you might have to use UV tools for v4. I'll do a video on it soon
Thank you !!!
Well done, Ty!
Wow thank you sir
Thanks!
Oh my gosh! You're my very first "Super Thanks" on youtube! Thank you so much!
nice! never have to mix again
That's the goal!!
Much appreciated.
👏👏👏👏👏
chitubox wouldn't let me set exposure time to 0. only 0.0001. So I have set UV light power to 0, as well as put the object off the plate as shown. Hopefully same effect. Let's find out!
It seems as if that would work to me, but you could also download free lychee and create a master mixing file for yourself.
What's the music playing in the background please?
It's non copywriter tavern music on UA-cam. I don't have it in front of me but I'll try to find it when I get back to my desk
can't get the auto mixer to work on Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, It worked great on my Saturn 2. Any idea on a fix?
I haven't opened my S3 Ultra yet. Its possible it doesnt accept Gcode, may have to use the Lychee trick instead.
❤
Hi! Any chance you will be porting the mixing files to the Mars 4 MAX? I'm using and loving it on my Mars 3, but I'm moving to a Mars 4 MAX and don't want to be without it! Unfortunately, the 4MAX uses a different file format.
This isn't the kind of thing you port to other machines. It will work if the machine takes gcode. It won't if it doesn't. But you can always use the lychee trick as a backup
OK so i have an Elegoo Saturn 3 ultra and I tried the Gcode and it flashed like it was going to run then nothing. I thought this printer handled gcode just fine? what am I missing?
It doesn't:(
@@TableFlipFoundry oh no 😭 that's crappy and frustrating:-( I like using G-Code
Just tried using the .gcodes on my saturn 3 ultra and the printer won't execute the file, is saturn 3 ultra not gcode compatible?
@DargorV it seems that way yeah. Sadly the manufacturers aren't playing nice or giving us features that we want.
How do I add mixnprint to my resin profile settings in chitubox? I can open the mixnprint gcode in notepad++ but I'm not sure where to paste it. Chitubox splits gcode into 3 boxes...start, interlayer, and end. Is it as easy as pasting everything before G21 in the start box?
You don't do any of that. Just name your ctb file the same as the one accompanying the mixer file.
@@TableFlipFoundryThere is no way to send it over wifi then? I've been sending my files via wifi to my saturn 3 ultra
any advice if you select the profile, hit print and it goes to the system update load screen followed by nothing happening? I use elegoo saturn 3 ultra's. This is done by USB, trying to send it through wifi crashes chitubox
The Saturn 3 has been reported not to work with the gcode method
COPY, ANY UPDATES? THANKS@@TableFlipFoundry
Doesn't work on the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra.
Sorry.
Nope it does not. You can use the Lychee Trick instead.
@@TableFlipFoundry Just tried it. Works great. Worth exporting as a .Goo file and leaving it in memory if you have the function, as it saves time rendering every time.
Any idea why this won't work on my Elegoo Saturn 3 Saturn 3 Ultra? I press print on any of the gcode files and the LCD screen just flashed for a second then goes back to the file list. Choosing a normal print file starts a print as expected so the printer is functioning from the USB disk fine. I even tried copying the file to the internal storage and printing from there, same behavior.
The elegoo saturn 3 ultra does not run gcode unfortunately. Sadly, I have no control over which printers and which manufacturers allow for gcode to run.
Maybe we should all make a big stink about it and see if we can get them to do a firmware upgrade to allow it, or better yet, incorporate it in their firmware by default!
@@TableFlipFoundry Interesting. Are you sure? I mean I use Chitubox for slicing/printing which I thought in the intro you said was gcode. It even mentions gcode in the program. I really thought they did but it gets weirder. I followed the slicer method and it still won't print :p I am almost starting to think they have some firmware in there that just refuses to print if it doesn't actually see anything to print, like LCD activity :( Very frustrating. I agree with others that this should be a built-in feature. Heck I should be able to have an option to run a quick mix before any print.
@@TableFlipFoundry Doesn't work on my new GKTwo either. Le sigh. Such a cool idea though. I wish this was just built into the printer.
Attempted to run the Quick Mix from the USB on my Phrozen Mighty 8K and it doesnt give a "Print" option, only an "Update" option...
Seems to maybe not be compatible with every firmware. You will have to use the lychee option instead
@@TableFlipFoundry That's what I'm trying next! Thank you for the quick reply 😁
I get “unknown file format” on the Elegoo Saturn 2. Anyone got it to work there?
What ever happened to Danny from 3dprinted table top? I haven't seen any content from him in a long time. I hope he is doing well.
We all miss Danny. Youtubing is pretty stressful. I think it was just time to move on to something else.
i downloaded the files but this didn't work with my elegoo mars 4 ultra any recommendation?
Sadly. It seems that printer cannot run gcode. You will have to use the lychee method.
Wo this is cool
That was a sick intro
Ha! Thanks hehe.
So the g code doesn’t work on phrozen sonic mini s :(
I'm sorry :(
The lychee trick works well though
Would this degrade the magnets for those with flex plates?
I cant see how it could. I'm gonna venture to say that I dont think there is any possibility that this can affect the magnetism of your flex plate.
The magnetism itself? No. Only heating it up above its curie-temperature will affect the magnetism. But you'll never gonna reach that with resin printing, not even when heating up the chamber.
But, *it sure will affect the **_adhesive_** used to stick the magnet on the build plate.*
This because the resin will eventually (after a long time) eat away the adhesive and/or will be soaked into it.
As such, this whole mixing with the build plate thing, should be seen as printing time and counts as such towards to end of life cycle of your magnetic flex plate (that is: for its adhesive).
Of course it all depends on how long and how much you print otherwise, but those magnetic flex plates are to be considered consumables!
The adhesive will eventually wear out and the magnet may come loose.
When that happens you need to replace it (remove it and stick new magnet on).
It also highly depends on how well you have stuck the magnet on to the build plate. That is: did you follow the proper procedure? Which involves properly cleaning the build plate, scuffing it up, etc, etc...And after applying the adhesive, NOT using the plate immediately, but let the adhesive cure for a day, under slight pressure and such(!). Experience from reading stuff on many fora, half the people don't do it properly (and have all kinds of problems later on because of it).
So yeah, just be aware that if you have a magnetic flexible plate, such mixing will degrade the adhesive just like when you print normally.
(Also never ever leave your magnetic build plate in the resin when you're not printing, nor in a bath of IPA or whatever... for the same reasons)
Hello, I downloaded the zip file but it only contained the AutoMixNPrint. Do you have a link to the quick/infinite cycles? Thanks
Thank you for the heads up! The new website has the wrong file!!!
All fixed. Sorry about that!
@@TableFlipFoundry awesome! Thank you
doesn't work with elegoo saturn 3 ultra for some reason (
Sadly that machine won't read gcode. You're lookin at the lychee trick instead
dont work on a saturn 3 ultra even though it says it does
does the gcode work on the GKtwo by anychance ?
I have no idea. I don't have a GKtwo. Give it a try!
@@TableFlipFoundry Yeah - sadly its a no - will spend some time working out the manual method :)
My 5-year-old printer has this procedure built-in. But it's a 2.5k€ machine. 😅
Hi does the gcode method work with halot mage pro?
@@noodl3d I'm sorry I don't know. Best you can do is try it out.
@@TableFlipFoundry I've done the slicer method in the mean time. Really cool trick. Thank you. Will try it out and feedback here for future reference
My Elegoo Mars 2 pro does not accept the QuickMix-TableFlip-Foundry.gcode file. When I chose to "print" it, it tells me not able to print it. What do I do wrong?
Edit: The other mix files works great, only the one mentioned before does not work.
I dont have that printer unfortunately so I can't say for sure. You didn't rename the file right?
@@TableFlipFoundry Nope, i followed as you said step by step, and did NOT rename anything.
@@morgenkaffe unfortunately I don't have the capability to troubleshoot the mars2 at this time. Over time I will start to hear reports of which printers can and can't run the gcode.
For now you will have to run the slicer alternative.
@@TableFlipFoundry The other mix files works great, only the one mentioned before does not work.
I like this idea but Infinite Mix cycle? NO. If your z-axis seizes during this (and btw the motion does reduce but not negate the chance of this) it might be days before you realise. Resin printer are susceptible to this and it's happened to me. Best to monitor any z-axis usage at least a bit.
Your advice is really good. Best to monitor your machines for SURE. But...
I don't know. I have a 12 resin printers. I ran this on the 6 in my print farm for the last 6 months. Maybe combined 5 or 6 thousand hours of run time with no problems.
I think you might be applying the exception to the rule here.
@@TableFlipFoundry Possibly. If you're running a print farm you're probably close to being in a continuous use cycle anyway. Many people have gaps in use of weeks followed by bursts of activity. I def wouldn't leave this running in such a usage gap. Cheers
the link is broken
I have an ultra mars 9k and it donst move at all, with the files, can someone send me the files please
It seems they won't use gcode. You have to use the lychee slicer trick instead.
i didt that, buth dosnt work @@TableFlipFoundry
link broken to download :(
@@drderrp shoot.my host bailed on me because we used too much bandwidth. I'll sort it out.
@@TableFlipFoundry all good! no worries. I made my own profile following the rest of the video
Dumb but Necessary!
👉When’s the “Auto CAD file from photo” coming 😉
📌Luv the Mix code, already downloaded it on Drive for my (Saturn S) 💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
🙏Thx🙏
☯️ZenModeling☯️
I'll get right to work on.
SO STUPID
OK!