Відео

Hoping someone can help me out here - I'm going to print the cones of calibration but my concern is with the forced failures do you need to clean the FEP/are bits getting printed and floating around in the vat instead of sticking to the print? I'm new and have been using a Mars 5 ultra for over a week and haven't had any failures so I'm not sure how that plays out. Thanks!

How would you accomplish this on the Saturn 4? It has has very different settings in Lychee.

Fantastic and thorough entry course to resin printing settings for successful prints sooner.

the link no longer works and I would like this file

I just got into resin 3D printing and have been binge watching the channel. I have the Cone V3 however I can't find anything about the Tessaract calibration tool you mentioned in the video around the 3min 56sec mark.

i tried this multiple times with different exposure times and i keep getting the same exact result. the result being; all of the cones on the bottom row (both on successe and fail side) do print and all the cones on the top row (again on both sides) do not print at all. what am i doing wrong? is it possible this has something to do with something different than exposure time? i would appreciate any help. 🙏🏽

Hola amigo, muy interesante tu explicación y definitivamente es como se debe hacer, como dijo Enzo Ferrari: “lo que merece ser hecho, merece ser bien hecho”, pero tengo una pregunta que nadie me ha podido contestar, al terminar de imprimir los conos de calibración se realiza el protocolo normal de limpieza y curado ? O hago el análisis antes de limpiar y curar, saludos y gracias por tu respuesta

👏👏👏👏👏

great

Ty is out here saving lives! Really appreciate your knowledge, passion and skills...helping us newbs out! Tabletop is my "GO TO" when i get "stuck" or when i forget something...and the cubes...should be a national treasure! Thank you!

I'm new to resin printing, and this is perfect for me. Would it be okay to copy the code from the 10 infinite mix loop up until the M6032 command into the GCode Start section of my Chitubox profile, before my default start line? This way, it will ensure a quick mix before every print.

I'm not jealous.. You are! The problem isn't printing.. It's PAINTING everything you print!

Just a suggestion but I use a fabric printing company and some of my maps I put on fabric in full color, they last forever. I can send you the link if interested.

Too much valuable information in a single video. Best video ever

Once I started using your support settings I realized how bad most presupports are. Really, I need to start the praise with Cones of Calibration that honed in my printer's light on time to a .1 second level. With the exposure correct and your supports my prints basically never fail. If they do it’s because I made an error in my manual supports so I have an isolated problem that I know how to solve. The prints come off so easily and CLEAN! It’s mind boggling how commercial presupports play it safe to make up for successful prints on suboptimal printer settings to the point that they’ll slap on some absolute logs. Nowadays if a file comes unsupported and presupported I’ll actually pick the unsupported and do it myself. Thank you so much for teaching us all!

Ok but does this factor in...layer heights ... <.< because you may have good exposure light layers

This is the kind of epic gamemap that I would absolutely love to unveil for my players... seriously, that's an incredible piece of work

Just tried using the .gcodes on my saturn 3 ultra and the printer won't execute the file, is saturn 3 ultra not gcode compatible?

Hi great Channel I just got a Elegoo saturn 3 and I'm using lychee it says I have a hollow systems on and how do I turn it off by the way extremely brand new to 3D printing thanks

Absolutely brilliant!!!!!!

AMAZING!

Great video and super helpful!! Would this method also work for a large base that's been cut in section? Like two half circles etc

This was an amazing video , thnx so much for sharing your brain with us. I have a question about cleaning , could you use standard syringe and inject the cleaner inside and repeat a bunch of times? I have a model I would like to hollow out because it would save a ton of resin , does this also cut down on printing time ? If I do it as a solid print it says it would take 33 hours to print it .

¡Gracias!

Really nice work. I use 1 and 2 inch XPS foam for risers to save on the 3d printed risers. It's easy enough to manipulate and lightweight. Impressive workshop. Again, nicely done project!

Stop that annoying music which does not bring any information !

This was an amazing lesson. I've been printing filament for years but, resin is a whole new ballgame. I learned a lot. Thank you for the time and effort that you put into this hobby. Now, I will go figure out how to join your group on Discord.

will this work with the saturn 4 ultra's multi exposure times tool on the same plate?

On printers without a tank clean (My photon mono) there is ususally a test pattern option you can just set to expose the whole screen for 15 seconds

Very useful but first attempt at 10s failed to grip the old Support. Tried 2nd time at 10s and same thing. Can I just keep extending the VAT time to 30s until sticks to old support?

I've been trying to find the easiest way to eliminate supports detected by the Proximity Detector. There is not a function (like with islands) to take you to each problem support in turn. So try this - you may not be able to find the support in error if it's a mini, but you can eliminate it. First, in prepare mode, in the top right corner is an eye with a line through it - Hide All Supports. Click it. Next, from the menu at the top of the screen, select View - Support Visibility - Show only supports in proximity error. Next to the eye you clicked earlier, it should tell you the number of supports you've selected. Even if you can't see them, just hit the Delete key on your keyboard and the problem supports will be removed. Then you can run Island Detection and see if there's anything you need to fix as a result.

Dumb question perhaps. But have you noticed any correlation between how filled up is the build plate and how likely are printing errors to appear? Would you recommend to fill the plate as much as possible or to keep it around 70% or so? Thanks for the wisdom

Thank you for your contributions to the community. Your channel is my first stop every time I want to brush up on my support skills.

Amazing work!

Doesnt this take about 40 minutes to print? The flat calibration prints are quicker so you can dial it in faster. Then come back with this calibration print to see if it needs tweaking.

Buddy, great video, but you really need to consider the music volume... We want to hear you , not the music :)