Drill press Motor Restoration and a new step pulley
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- Опубліковано 11 сер 2022
- Part 2 of my 1942 14" Delta Drill Press restoration. This Westinghouse motor wasn't original to the drill press, but it's about the right vintage. It had some issues, and I needed to machine a new step pulley to actually match the spindle pulley on the drill press.
Casting and Machining step pulleys in more detail: • Casting and Machining ...
If you like what I'm doing here and find some value in it, consider supporting my work on Patreon: / jeremymakesthings
I promise I'll still mostly make stuff out of rusty junk and not just buy shiny things with your money. - Навчання та стиль
In metric that's 2... Much. Priceless!!
I think the Loc-Tite Co. already owe you a sponsorship.
I hope so, I just bought some on amazon after seeing this video. 😂
Of all the machinist/makers channels I watch, yours is one of my favorites. Thank you for making videos. I like the casting, but I kind of miss the rust.. Loved the tap wrench!
I like to grip rounds in the mill with two vee blocks of correct size in the vice , love the attitude here and still the worlds finest lathe steady . Always look forwards the next film .
Ok, I need a pulley. First things first I need to get a smelting furnace 🙂. Awesome channel Jeremy! Subscribed.
Rockwell Delta. I worked for Rockwell 13 years in the 80s. Rockwell was sold off to Boeing Aircraft in the late 90s and Boeing stole my retirement pension. I like your channel because I've been a machinist for the last 45 years.
man thats a super cool restore!!!! You sometimes go low key on some aspects of the restoration and sometimes all out! I like it, learn a lot. Even though casting, machining is so so time consuming it gets you the parts you need! always equal to or better than the original. I am improving and restoring my Walker turner 900 floor model. Putting a smaller KC 1/3HP on it as it looks way nicer. Adding a toggle switch to the side of the motor. Just that the switch is too big so it won't fit inside. Got an old projector that had a nice cast aluminum box that fit perfectly on the motor, Just need to drill 2 tiny holes to secure the box and it will be done.
Nice work! I have a drill press like that. It needs more work.
I’m beginning to see “ nothing stops Jeremy “
Very good job
Very Nice !
You should try one of the link belts, they really cut down on belt vibration.
I love those old drill presses, you've fixed it up to be good for another 75-80 years.
If you want to make this reversible for any reason, you can get a reversible "hesitation" switch for the motor with 6 terminals. the "hesitation" bit is so that you can't accidentally slam from forward to reverse in one motion unintentionally -- it mechanically makes you pause in the middle before proceeding in the opposite direction. I put one of these on a magbase drill I rebuilt. Wiring would take a few minutes to think through -- swapping the relationship of the start winding to the main winding, etc (same as any single-speed induction motor)
Just looked it up - I used the EATON 7992K10 switch in my project, in a similarly-tight space at the back of a motor
Been waiting for this video. Awesome!
I have one of these drills, way my favourite shop tools, so nice compared to the new junk that is sold on to us today
Nice editing @5:00
I see the jib arm is working great. awesome shots and awesome timelapsing.
I wish I knew what about making things that aren't round, round, that fascinates me so.
OH YEAH BABY! DO ME ROUGH AND HARD, DO ME LIKE THAT DRILL! 23 minutes of good content, fuck yeah! Also, a horizontal mill would do the job just fine, the problem was your using a thick cutter like that unsupported from both ends... Sure, it can be used thusly, but anything thicker than 100 thou of slitting blade with a decent diameter really wants a proper horizontal mill setup to perform properly... With a universal mill that has the overarm or whatever type of support, you can use those thicker cutters to do some amazing work... A circular cutter can do amazing work if offered what it requires to do so... Much better than any endmill can at certain depths and narrow width...
you are pretty cool
Please line the locknut up with the tightening nut. Triggered big time 🤣
Stunning execution with incredibly sketchy tools ...... Jeremy, as always, your machining magic is impressively entertaining and continuously inspiring. You again confirm I should have no excuses in my shop. 👍👍😎👍👍
Very cool. Getting closer!
Great restoration mate!! Awesome work
Great video man, keep'um coming..
Good job 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. 🇨🇦
Very Cool! That pulley was a s**t ton of work!
Cheers
Rough, but interesting! Thanks.
That shaper section was the most beautiful and perfect example of aliasing I have ever seen and I am in the business of sampling etc. :)
May I use that for training purposes? :)
Awesome vid man keep going 🤩 damn i just love how you make things from scrap ..really good
I saw a machine like that in the classifieds about a year ago; I waffled over the twenty bucks I was unwilling to stretch and regret that.
Indeed, 1 thousands and a half is 2 much in metric 🙂
Great Stuff! Thanks for the video and reviving this little pretty, Jeremy:)
Now to the usual Internet/UA-cam "you should" stuff, hehehe: We NEVER solder electrical connections on machine tools. Especially not on motors or that with rotating parts = vibrations. Vibrations are the unavoidable death of every soft solder connection. That is only a matter of time. A physical connection or a permanently disconnected connection would be good. However, the most likely error pattern is an intermittently occurring fault. This is bad. Very simply (as with the existing motor and everywhere else) use a suitable screw/clamp connection, or the self-locking blade connectors, with the former being better and suitable for industrial use. BTW "They did it, too" or "This was the original state (from 1890??? hehe)" are NO excuses to not do it the right way.
Well ... No matter what you do, someone always mocks, right? Thanks again for the great video! :)
Nice job! How about a multi-speed pulley for the center collumn to get it down to steel drilling speed, if you're buying belts and making pulleys anyway? Lots of diy examples out there as the original Delta attachment is pricey, when it can be found on eBay.
The motor windings seem to be on their last leg. Better to re wind.
" for those of you that want it in metric.... That's about.... too much.."
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don't understand why you didn't make a key way cutting tool for your shaper!
Is there enough clearance behind or in front of your loctited bearings to add a groove and a circlip?
Excellent job. I have the Walker turner Bench model that is unblemished, but I plan to take it apart and do a resto paint job. I like your idea of casting the switch box. Mine just has an electric light switch. What size toggle switch did you use.?
Beautiful work. I am a little concerned about your location for the switch being so far from the business end of the drill. I recently starting cleaning up a very similar Delta drill press, so I like your timing.
The original had the switch mounted on the side of the motor. By modern standards, you’re right, that’s probably not the best practice…but neither is having open belts.
@@JeremyMakesThings Right on. I haven't gotten around to decoding the serial# for my Delta, but I suspect it's a few years newer because they had wiring run through a hole in the back to a toggle switch on the side. Of course the switch is right below the open belts, just to keep me on my toes.
Oops, should have waited to see all the video.
Do they use a grub screw from factory? Is it necessary?
What about 3d printing motor wiring cover?
I am looking at you put it all back together but you never mentioned how you did the bearings?
I let the original one on the “back” or bottom of the motor. The part where I bored it out and put in the ball bearing was the other end.
Do you think your 3/16" broach might have been 5mm ?
And 19/32" could be Whitworth ?
Which referenced the size of the bolt not the AF.
No, I have the same 5/16” nuts with a 19/32” hex on my lathe- it’s the same vintage as this machine. It’s just an odd antiquated standard.
Not sure why the broach was an odd size. It wasn’t quite 5mm either.
Great restoration video! 👍
I'm a bit concerned about all that green loctite, there is a lot of surface area on that bearing fir it to hold on to... isnt green the "never get it apart again" warning colour? 🤔😯
Green is the slip fit/press fit resting stuff. Probably harder to get apart than the red and certainly the blue, but for this I want all the help I can get.
@@JeremyMakesThings ahh ok, I'm only familiar with the green stud lock compound, it never comes apart unless you heat everything to stupid-high temperatures. I only use green for studs and dowel pins where I NEVER want to get them back out, lol.
When there is that much surface area to glue I just would have used good old blue 243, nothing will move and it is not too bad to separate later for a bearing change.
Nice drill press! 👍
Interesting with the plain bearings in the drive end. Both Restoration Projects' Delta drill presses have a tag which says "Double duty motor split phase : ball bearing" ua-cam.com/video/5HUOdNz1PWM/v-deo.html
It’s not the original motor. I have baseless suspicions that the motor is older than the drill press.
Use a puller ! Why beat the heck out of it with a hammer ???
thou and a half in metric is 2.... much.... 😂😂😂😂