It's never boring when you are trying to make sure this car is going to function properly. Those brackets had to be just right and your explanations are spot on. I like that rotisserie! It works just like you, effectively with no fuss. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for posting this, Fitzee! Have to be making one myself soon because between you, Karl Fisher, and Proshaper Wray inspired me to do my own car restoration. The tips are good!
Love the progress, Tony. If I could make one suggestion, it would be to weld those washers you had to the radius rod mounts. This will increase the bearing area of the bolt thru the heim joint back to the chassis. 👍
Suggestion for a gear drive n the rotiserie. Once had an engine stand , which used a flywheel and matching starter gear welded onto a crank handle. You could even add a spring loaded ratchet lock made from a flat screwdriver.
Your editing has come a long way, and I love how the chassis is coming together. Here is another way you could have made your mount from your cardboard template. Slice one of the folds and reverse the cardboard template inside out and re-taped it. It would have been correct for the first side, but what you did works too because you made it work. Nice job welding and figuring out how to motorize the frame rotator.
When I started watching Crusty, I wondered why you wanted to take on such a big project. Years in, now I want to start my own Crusty. Upstate New York here, we have a lot of rusty candidates.
Another educational video. Never get bored watching what you do. Watching adjustments you made on your rotissserie gives me ideas on mine. Thanks for education.
Boring? WTF you talkin bout Fitzee?! This is the good stuff! I love the rust repair. But when you said you wanted the fuel-cell as high as you could get it............I was like: "ohh yea, she'll boogie! Fitzee knows whats up!" Thank you for sharing as always!
No problem Tony. Sounds like you have experience to know what your doing with your design. I was just concerned enough to bring it up. Keep up the great work and thanks so much for your videos. I have learned a lot watching you and have tackled restoring a 1988 Toyota Longbed pickup. Looking forward to using what I have learned. Take care my friend. Good night, it’s late for you!
Í really enjoy these videos. I'm always learning something. I'm sure we're all looking forward to the next one and to seeing the car on the track. 👍 🇨🇦
Hi Philip, thanks for the videos, I made a similar jig for my body, the only thing, I did change later was I fitted two more caster wheels so I can move it in any direction, makes life much easier.
Hi Tony. That is a pretty nice rotisserie you have. The winch is handy addition. Pretty clever way to make those control arm brackets too. Wrapping painter's tape around the tube to lay out those complex angles is a great tip. Getting those angles cut accurately would be difficult without the tape. Thanks for the video!
You’re so clever. No matter what you do, I always take away a few tips and tricks that will work for me. Have you ever done a little back story, of all your history and experience??? All this knowledge doesn’t come overnight. JT: Orlando FLA
That was a lot of progress on Ole crusty and I like the homemade rotisserie, they do make things easier to work on when it's at a comfortable place, nice work Tony, those torsion bar brackets are a great design
I turned a four wheel drive rear end that I welded up out of a subaru. I also used a power in and out cheap electric winch. It wasn't real bad for weight but walking around it from side to side wasn't fun as it just stuck out so far.... wish I was still able to work on anything for that matter, but a man could make a fair living just making good rotisseries for other guys.
I Love the rototisorie. You made...that's how I built mine I used trailer tires and made it modular so different attachments can be swapped even made a steerable front end for it.
Hey Tony, regarding the lower control arm struts I think I'd keep them ridgid. I'd be afraid the control arm could rotate under heavy braking. I know a ridgid strut will twist the control arm but that's the way it was designed Thanks for the great videos!😊
You have made a fine car. I like it and i like the way you do your work. The Tips were good i thank you very much for it. Best wishes and all the best Yours Frank Galetzka
Tony, you say boring stuff? I just watched 58 minutes and enjoyed every minute! Anybody wanting to learn how to fabricate metal parts for their vehicles, old or not so old, this is the channel to watch! I'm picking up a '46 Pontiac and have the confidence to fix it up because of your videos. By the way, I'm 55 yrs old, been a mechanic most of my life with basically no body work experience except painting 1 fender and hammering out a couple dents 35 years ago! Your channels are everything but boring to an old (young at heart) hot rodder like me. Thank you Tony!
When you finish with that rotisserie, send it over to Australia, I'll be needing one for my project ...... Well, that won't work, I guess I'll just have to either buy one or make one.
Wondering if it would be good to weld those washers on the outside of the control arm bracket you build for adding thickness to prevent holes being stretched? Nice work as always.
Tony, they make high misalignment spacers for rod ends so you can get more movement out of a standard rod end. Thank you for posting. OI kind of want to do a home brew rotisserie myself.
I always weld something like that outside washer that he had on his bracket you would be surprised how much stronger bracket would become when you are loading that bracket with force for years it keeps that bracket from egg shaping out and keeps it from becoming weak over time however that is just me
It's something different but look up towing a trailer behind a motorcycle how they got that hooked up. Some of them used parts off of a tractor 3-point hitch
Hey Toni, like all you did this week! The rotisserie is a great help finishing off these things. Inspector Peanut was non committal this week, guess she's enjoying the last warm days out there. Q: Will you be closing the square brackets with face plates before you get into the painting of the chassis? Cheers and thanks! 👍💪✌ -Robert
@@fitzeesfabrications yes, the sections that are open on the square pipes going from left to right on the frame you made, will you be welding them shut? There are two on each side, around the door bottom I'm thinking of.
@rjung_ch ah Those. Those are the mounting points for the body and there is 1/8 plate welding to rockers foe them to he welded too. Once they are welding to those plates they will be capped.
Hey Tony I was going down a Road last week and seen a car like Crusty. But it wasn't Rusty. But it was a complete car. It doesn't look like it's been driven in a long time. But if you didn't live so far away it would be a great car for you to have
Looking good, on the track next year. Hard to tell with the video angle but you should mount the spindle and wheel on control arms and make sure the strut rod doesn't get hit by the wheel in the lock position, you might need to put a bend in the strut rod. FYI, mopar mounted their strut rods toward the front, apparently it helps in hard braking.
Great videos Fitzee! SAFETY CONCERN! Do you think you need to have some cross bars in the rear of the car in case you are hit in the rear or back into a wall while racing? Looking at how it would collapse it appears that it could easily just shove the rear suspension into the cabin area. Without the unibody structure you could load one rail diagonally and bend the whole rear section to the side and forward. Leaf springs are not structural at all either. I am slightly concerned that even good traction on one side and poor on the other could cause the rear frame to flex side to side. Just my thoughts. Keep up the great work!
Some put a X in the back to help with twist. The main cage is where you need safety. It's best so every thing around it collapses to take the blunt of the force. Building it to not collapse it can cause worse injuries. Notice how forward of the front wheels is only pipe and not 2x3. I want that to collapse there as to take away the frontal impact.
I think the front is fine, especially with the engine acting as a structural member and the frame around it. I would leave crush room behind the front riser for the rear axle but would add some strength from the rear of the cage to the front side of the rear axle bend crossing side to side. My fear is that the frame would bend the rear strut you have going back and hinge at the point where you frame around the floor of the cage is attached to the rear frame rail allowing the rear frame rail to penetrate into the rear of the cage/ seat back brackets. I have lots of experience with circle track, road racing and figure 8 racing and we always try to triangulate a structure around the cage and leave the corners as crush zones to absorb impact. I don’t have any experience with drag cars , it just looks light in the rear structure to me. I really like what you are doing and would hate to see you get hurt if something happened. Continue on and God Bless. Ralph
@backyardbuilder1 different types of racers see different things. I get where your coming from. Unlike roundy round racing the impact is raarly with another car but it do happen. Roundy round cars have to be built so much stronger. Alot of today's drag cars are designed to come apart. The drivers compartment is what needs the safety. Now we can never be too safe. My frame is alot stronger then alot of today's drag car which are made mostly of tubing and they crush front and rear on impact. The hit you are talking about on my car. If it happen like you said I think my body wouldn't handle that G force to do such damage. That's for the concern. I appreciate the comment.
Who knows what that old gear drive was off of originally but it looks old and usually old stuff is well made but I guess not in this case, kind of odd, I could see the case being pot metal but you’d think the gears would be decent metal.
hey...Please Keep Up All The Hard Work and Great Video Content. so...the trans comes out...like a "bad dog" on a leash. no longer building...but sure appreciate every one of posts!!! very best to you, wendy, and all your inlaws - outlaws...walt+mrs.
Kevin Wilson just made a video on Mustang II front ends related to Drag Racing, He is a wealth of knowledge on set-up!!! ...heck, I bet your already subscribed to him~
Simetrics is the key, you always seem to get it dead nuts. Lol. I'm curious to know, do you eventually cap off all the end cuts on the frame work or does that add unwanted weight?
Tony u could have moved control arm radius control rods too front side to aline with lower control arm pivot point u might have suspension bind just soming to think about iknow ford use them in back but will work in front to when control arm moves up and down so does tie rod u maybe ok but if a bine at speed could be bad
Lots to think about there . But mosting how long of a Shock,coil spring or air bag is from its mounting point on the rear-end housing. Mine is a bit high but I want to have room there to put a muffler on its side do it was not hanging down and u woul have room to pass a large exhaust pipe over the rearend.. just think about all this stuff and you will figure out a nice high.
@@fitzeesfabrications This would be on a 70’s vintage oval track stock car that looks like it had been built in a driveway! Chevelle frame but they hacked the rear clip off and cobbled up an under axle link sorta like a trailing arm. I think they were setting it up for dirt. Came with a quick change rear end and a Mustang body in excellent condition but roll cage and chassis needs a ton of dressing up as you would put it. Big help your videos Fitz! Nothing boring, good content, good simple instructions. Thanks man!
Neat rig. Very Moon buggyish. Perfect for your next live old iron flipside broadcast from Mars. Ask Elon to hook U up with a boarding pass.😱🚀👍 Happy Canadian Thanksgiving to you and yours Fitzee🦃🍽
Tony, there is absolutely nothing boring or repetitious about your videos. "If you film it, we will watch." 👍🙂 God bless and have a wonderful day.
Tony, it's never boring watching you work. Your a true artist.
No matter how tedious a project is you always follow it through with complete professionalism. Great video
Brother Tony, your stuff is not boring. I've said it before and I'll say it again, you're a helluva teacher!
It's never boring when you are trying to make sure this car is going to function properly. Those brackets had to be just right and your explanations are spot on. I like that rotisserie! It works just like you, effectively with no fuss. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for posting this, Fitzee! Have to be making one myself soon because between you, Karl Fisher, and Proshaper Wray inspired me to do my own car restoration. The tips are good!
I agree and add invision to that list if you like, another Canadian metal man. What is in the water of these canadians!!!!!!!
USING HOSE CLAMPS TO HOLD THE SWAY BAR BEARING PLATES WAS A STROKE OF GENIUS!
FITZ,YOU NEVER FAIL TO IMPRESS!
Love the progress, Tony. If I could make one suggestion, it would be to weld those washers you had to the radius rod mounts. This will increase the bearing area of the bolt thru the heim joint back to the chassis. 👍
Wonderful content Fitzie. We wont be told it's the boring stuff, not even from you👍
Suggestion for a gear drive n the rotiserie. Once had an engine stand , which used a flywheel and matching starter gear welded onto a crank handle. You could even add a spring loaded ratchet lock made from a flat screwdriver.
Not boring at all . I always learn a lot from you. The tips are always good. Crusty is almost ready
I really like that do it yourself sway bar kit, that’s a great idea and seems to use very good materials 👍
Your editing has come a long way, and I love how the chassis is coming together. Here is another way you could have made your mount from your cardboard template. Slice one of the folds and reverse the cardboard template inside out and re-taped it. It would have been correct for the first side, but what you did works too because you made it work.
Nice job welding and figuring out how to motorize the frame rotator.
When I started watching Crusty, I wondered why you wanted to take on such a big project. Years in, now I want to start my own Crusty. Upstate New York here, we have a lot of rusty candidates.
Your really are the GOAT when it comes to things like "necessity", "mothers", and "invention". Always a pleasure to watch your process. and skills.
Another educational video. Never get bored watching what you do. Watching adjustments you made on your rotissserie gives me ideas on mine. Thanks for education.
You've sure made a lot pf progress on Crusty over the time you've been working on it, That's yet another step towards completion.
Good to see you getting over your fear of templates 🤣 I hate having to use them too
Boring? WTF you talkin bout Fitzee?! This is the good stuff! I love the rust repair. But when you said you wanted the fuel-cell as high as you could get it............I was like: "ohh yea, she'll boogie! Fitzee knows whats up!" Thank you for sharing as always!
Very nice work Sir. I appreciate your efforts in making these videos. They are informative and educational.
Good stuff, Fitzee. Not boring at all!
Very glad you added an anti-roll bar, it will make a huge difference. I have back halved several cars and enjoy your videos.
Great stuff again Fitzee, it’s looking better every time!!
Very good,sir! Your buddy's Datsun looks quick! And nice rotisserie!👍🇨🇦
That seat mounting kit looks like it came from my scrap pile 😂👍Great video as always Tony!
Not boring at all Tony, very informative and enjoyed it all. Joe
Looks great. There is so much work into building a car, but it can be fun too.
I like the fact that it’s
Nutting Fancy !!👍🏻
No problem Tony. Sounds like you have experience to know what your doing with your design. I was just concerned enough to bring it up. Keep up the great work and thanks so much for your videos. I have learned a lot watching you and have tackled restoring a 1988 Toyota Longbed pickup. Looking forward to using what I have learned. Take care my friend. Good night, it’s late for you!
Great video...lots of work goes into building a car...you gotta love it....
Tony - you will get a free pass into the heavens after making that bracket.
Another great Sat., cause we got a vid from Tony. Thank you sir, the tips were good.😊
Í really enjoy these videos.
I'm always learning something.
I'm sure we're all looking forward to the next one and to seeing the car on the track.
👍
🇨🇦
The tips were great. Learned a lot. It looks good . can't wait for the next video.
Hi Philip, thanks for the videos, I made a similar jig for my body, the only thing, I did change later was I fitted two more caster wheels so I can move it in any direction, makes life much easier.
Hi Tony. That is a pretty nice rotisserie you have. The winch is handy addition. Pretty clever way to make those control arm brackets too. Wrapping painter's tape around the tube to lay out those complex angles is a great tip. Getting those angles cut accurately would be difficult without the tape. Thanks for the video!
Nice fabricating skills on this you did a fantastic job on this project thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍
You’re so clever. No matter what you do, I always take away a few tips and tricks that will work for me.
Have you ever done a little back story, of all your history and experience??? All this knowledge doesn’t come overnight.
JT: Orlando FLA
That make a cool video. I'll keep that in mind
Looks great, I’m excited to see it coming together
Great video tony. I always enjoy watching your videos 😊
Getting closer to race day. I can’t wait.😊
That was a lot of progress on Ole crusty and I like the homemade rotisserie, they do make things easier to work on when it's at a comfortable place, nice work Tony, those torsion bar brackets are a great design
I turned a four wheel drive rear end that I welded up out of a subaru. I also used a power in and out cheap electric winch. It wasn't real bad for weight but walking around it from side to side wasn't fun as it just stuck out so far.... wish I was still able to work on anything for that matter, but a man could make a fair living just making good rotisseries for other guys.
Great job, thank you for sharing.
I Love the rototisorie. You made...that's how I built mine I used trailer tires and made it modular so different attachments can be swapped even made a steerable front end for it.
Great work Tony coming out nicely
Been thinking of buying a rotisserie but maybe i will just build me one thanks fitz loved the video
Hey Tony, regarding the lower control arm struts I think I'd keep them ridgid. I'd be afraid the control arm could rotate under heavy braking. I know a ridgid strut will twist the control arm but that's the way it was designed Thanks for the great videos!😊
That was a great one, Fitzee!
You have made a fine car.
I like it and i like the way you do your work.
The Tips were good i thank you very much for it.
Best wishes and all the best
Yours Frank Galetzka
Enjoyed watching the show
Loving this build!
Love the attention to detaij ! !
Tony, you say boring stuff? I just watched 58 minutes and enjoyed every minute! Anybody wanting to learn how to fabricate metal parts for their vehicles, old or not so old, this is the channel to watch! I'm picking up a '46 Pontiac and have the confidence to fix it up because of your videos. By the way, I'm 55 yrs old, been a mechanic most of my life with basically no body work experience except painting 1 fender and hammering out a couple dents 35 years ago! Your channels are everything but boring to an old (young at heart) hot rodder like me. Thank you Tony!
We are the same age. Our generation are always eager to learn new things.
@fitzeesfabrications Learn something new every day has been my motto.
Nothing you do is boring yung-un, keep em comin.................... Thanks as always
Good one sir Tony well done
When you finish with that rotisserie, send it over to Australia, I'll be needing one for my project ...... Well, that won't work, I guess I'll just have to either buy one or make one.
Very good Fitzee.
Love it all Tony. Thanks
Thanks for sharing with us.
Looking good Fitzee..
Work smarter not harder. Cool 😊
Wondering if it would be good to weld those washers on the outside of the control arm bracket you build for adding thickness to prevent holes being stretched? Nice work as always.
You dont need tires . Loving the build
Awsome video really helpful for me I'm building a model a ratrod
Great fab work😊😊😊
Awesome Work !!!
Awesome Tony!
Tony, they make high misalignment spacers for rod ends so you can get more movement out of a standard rod end. Thank you for posting. OI kind of want to do a home brew rotisserie myself.
22:30 Fitzee takes his transmission for a walk... 😁😁😁
Great video.
I always weld something like that outside washer that he had on his bracket you would be surprised how much stronger bracket would become when you are loading that bracket with force for years it keeps that bracket from egg shaping out and keeps it from becoming weak over time however that is just me
Luv the way u explain your work! Can be a lil long winded but well worth it for us beginners ❤
No such thing as long winded. This is step by step how to build a car from scratch.
It's something different but look up towing a trailer behind a motorcycle how they got that hooked up. Some of them used parts off of a tractor 3-point hitch
Nice measuring tip 👍
OK, the "seat mounting kit" made me bust out laughing in my empty house.
Got a new T-shirt idea for you, "Fitzee's Fabrication, The Tips are Good"
Hey Toni, like all you did this week! The rotisserie is a great help finishing off these things.
Inspector Peanut was non committal this week, guess she's enjoying the last warm days out there.
Q: Will you be closing the square brackets with face plates before you get into the painting of the chassis?
Cheers and thanks! 👍💪✌
-Robert
Closing in?
@@fitzeesfabrications yes, the sections that are open on the square pipes going from left to right on the frame you made, will you be welding them shut? There are two on each side, around the door bottom I'm thinking of.
@rjung_ch ah Those. Those are the mounting points for the body and there is 1/8 plate welding to rockers foe them to he welded too. Once they are welding to those plates they will be capped.
@@fitzeesfabrications that's it, thanks Tony.
Always a good video, sir!
Hey Tony
I was going down a Road last week and seen a car like Crusty. But it wasn't Rusty. But it was a complete car. It doesn't look like it's been driven in a long time. But if you didn't live so far away it would be a great car for you to have
Looking good, on the track next year. Hard to tell with the video angle but you should mount the spindle and wheel on control arms and make sure the strut rod doesn't get hit by the wheel in the lock position, you might need to put a bend in the strut rod. FYI, mopar mounted their strut rods toward the front, apparently it helps in hard braking.
another great video. I'm curious on the ingersoll rand sander you always use, what is the number if you don't mind sharing .tks
Im loving it
Think inner pivot of control arm and your rod going back to frame must pivot on same plane or bind will happen!
Yes reason for rod ends. They will want to turn and they rotate. This will give me hopefully enough travel in the front.
Great videos Fitzee! SAFETY CONCERN!
Do you think you need to have some cross bars in the rear of the car in case you are hit in the rear or back into a wall while racing? Looking at how it would collapse it appears that it could easily just shove the rear suspension into the cabin area. Without the unibody structure you could load one rail diagonally and bend the whole rear section to the side and forward. Leaf springs are not structural at all either. I am slightly concerned that even good traction on one side and poor on the other could cause the rear frame to flex side to side. Just my thoughts. Keep up the great work!
Some put a X in the back to help with twist. The main cage is where you need safety. It's best so every thing around it collapses to take the blunt of the force. Building it to not collapse it can cause worse injuries. Notice how forward of the front wheels is only pipe and not 2x3. I want that to collapse there as to take away the frontal impact.
I think the front is fine, especially with the engine acting as a structural member and the frame around it. I would leave crush room behind the front riser for the rear axle but would add some strength from the rear of the cage to the front side of the rear axle bend crossing side to side. My fear is that the frame would bend the rear strut you have going back and hinge at the point where you frame around the floor of the cage is attached to the rear frame rail allowing the rear frame rail to penetrate into the rear of the cage/ seat back brackets. I have lots of experience with circle track, road racing and figure 8 racing and we always try to triangulate a structure around the cage and leave the corners as crush zones to absorb impact. I don’t have any experience with drag cars , it just looks light in the rear structure to me. I really like what you are doing and would hate to see you get hurt if something happened. Continue on and God Bless. Ralph
@backyardbuilder1 different types of racers see different things. I get where your coming from. Unlike roundy round racing the impact is raarly with another car but it do happen. Roundy round cars have to be built so much stronger. Alot of today's drag cars are designed to come apart. The drivers compartment is what needs the safety. Now we can never be too safe. My frame is alot stronger then alot of today's drag car which are made mostly of tubing and they crush front and rear on impact. The hit you are talking about on my car. If it happen like you said I think my body wouldn't handle that G force to do such damage. That's for the concern. I appreciate the comment.
wonder if you could use a boat trailer winch for the rotisserie
If there is idea it just might work!
_PHENOMENAL!_
Always learning mint
Tips were good
Who knows what that old gear drive was off of originally but it looks old and usually old stuff is well made but I guess not in this case, kind of odd, I could see the case being pot metal but you’d think the gears would be decent metal.
SMA has a cat scan too.
hey...Please Keep Up All The Hard Work and Great Video Content.
so...the trans comes out...like a "bad dog" on a leash.
no longer building...but sure appreciate every one of posts!!!
very best to you, wendy, and all your inlaws - outlaws...walt+mrs.
Kevin Wilson just made a video on Mustang II front ends related to Drag Racing,
He is a wealth of knowledge on set-up!!! ...heck, I bet your already subscribed to him~
"In Shop Suspension Work - Major Safety Issue Revealed - Be SAFE!!"
Yep been following him awhile. Seen it in my feed yesterday. Never got chance to watch it yet. Thanks.. you know what I'm watching next right. Lol
Simetrics is the key, you always seem to get it dead nuts. Lol. I'm curious to know, do you eventually cap off all the end cuts on the frame work or does that add unwanted weight?
Those sections will be capped with the plates on the body.
Outstanding* Are you using CO2 on these welds?
Yes
Tony u could have moved control arm radius control rods too front side to aline with lower control arm pivot point u might have suspension bind just soming to think about iknow ford use them in back but will work in front to when control arm moves up and down so does tie rod u maybe ok but if a bine at speed could be bad
Ford used them with rear steer setups. The rack is up front and it will be in the way of the travel
Think it's going to pull control arm back and forth causing caster change!!!
No it most likely will want to bind. But I think with the idea I have in mind it should drop far enough before it wants to bind
Got a question Fitz! How did you determine the height of your rear frame rail differential hoops on ole Crusty?
Lots to think about there . But mosting how long of a Shock,coil spring or air bag is from its mounting point on the rear-end housing. Mine is a bit high but I want to have room there to put a muffler on its side do it was not hanging down and u woul have room to pass a large exhaust pipe over the rearend.. just think about all this stuff and you will figure out a nice high.
@@fitzeesfabrications This would be on a 70’s vintage oval track stock car that looks like it had been built in a driveway! Chevelle frame but they hacked the rear clip off and cobbled up an under axle link sorta like a trailing arm. I think they were setting it up for dirt. Came with a quick change rear end and a Mustang body in excellent condition but roll cage and chassis needs a ton of dressing up as you would put it. Big help your videos Fitz!
Nothing boring, good content, good simple instructions. Thanks man!
The master!
Neat rig. Very Moon buggyish. Perfect for your next live old iron flipside broadcast from Mars. Ask Elon to hook U up with a boarding pass.😱🚀👍
Happy Canadian Thanksgiving to you and yours Fitzee🦃🍽
Hello to all