Amazing! I had a similar problem with the bushing on the center wheel. One day while winding,... the clock just exploded ! ( but didn't break any teeth ! ) Good Job !!!
Thanks for the video! I'm about to bush the 4th wheel on the time side of a similar round French movement and I'm terribly nervous due to the tiny pivot/ fear I won't find center. I've bushed many American clocks, but mistakes you might be able to get away with on an American clock with larger pivots can stop a French clock dead due to the tiny pivots and wheel teeth. I've been practicing putting tiny bushings in a German "French style" movement that is similar. Sooner or later I'm going to have give it a go! I don't habe a mill--will be using a KWM bushing machine. Thanks for the tip on pushing the bushing in through the front. I was a little on the fence in terms of dressing it for the oil sink. I liked your method.
Hi Spencer. Another interesting video. It raises a couple of points that are worth bringing o your attention as they may be useful in the future. First, when you first enlarge the worn hole it is usual practice to use a broach for that. Because a broach is five sided it has better self-centring qualities. The problem with ordinary drills is they will tend to "pull" into the worn part rather than maintain the centre as intended - this is particularly true with the small diameters we deal with because the drills also have great ability to flex when being pulled into that worn hole. Second, when reaming (or broaching) to the final size to install the bush this should be done from the inside of the plate towards the outside (and the bush should be inserted that way too). The reason for this is the bush is very slightly tapered and if it fails (that is if it ever "slips" out of its retaining hole) it can only ever move one way - that is inwards into the clock movement where its movement will be stopped by the arbour (to which the pivot running through that bush is attached). If the bush is installed from the outside of the plate the taper is running the other way and if the bush slips is can fall out completely meaning that pivot is no longer supported and the obvious disastrous consequences that can lead to. Hope that is helpful.
Reuasam thank you for your very interesting, constructive and essentially correct comments. Under different circumstances you are completely right and I have since read up on the correct procedure confirming your assertions. But in my defence I would explain my thought process. The sherline mill has a very difficult vice process to secure small items. Once lined up it's best left as setup. I centred and lined up the Mill on the original 0.6mm pivot hole using a 0.6mm drill set as best I could away from the additional elongated section. This gave me centre. I then used a 1.5mm drill which I reasoned would drill centrally - which to see from results seemed correct. I then reamed out this hole with a 1.97 reamer but with one pass only and not a full thru and back. So it was a little under size. I admit I worked from the front (wrong) but as soon as the 2.0mm dia bush found centre and settled I drove it home gently tapping onto a smooth staking block with a 2mm domed smooth stake so that it was riveted by expansion and flush with the inside of the "plate" the plate was a removable action some 2.4m and the bush was set into the oil sink so could be only 1.5 mm thick (I could have use a much bigger bush (but that option didn't occur) in the end l reemed out and burnished the pivot hole to suit the 0.6mm pivot and the clock which was stopping intermittently has been running well for the last 3 weeks. Thank you again for your helpful and correct comments but I had two extenuating circumstances. Firstly the circumstances and set up of the Mill. Secondly "pig ignorance" of a novice - but not all that bad under the circumstances. Kind regards Simon trading as Tenagodus.
I have the same movement in one clock I own was wondering if you have any idea what’s wrong with the one I have the clock keeps stopping at around ten two the hour and it seems like the hour hand is very stiff if you try and turn it clockwise by hand ? Any help would be greatly appreciate
I don't think the hour hand is out of kilter. It should be stiff as it is on a friction spring clutch on the main arbor's hour wheel and I think that's OK. The clock may be stopping at about ten to the hour perhaps because the warning pin on the strike train is not being released to allow the strike train to run. It may be stuck on the little plate inside the front plate on the wishbone detent. This can happen if the warning pin is too close to this plate to let it get enough momentum or if this little plate is not polished smooth. This is just a thought and where I would look first. These clocks have their own traits to annoy you! Good luck Simon
Amazing! I had a similar problem with the bushing on the center wheel. One day while winding,... the clock just exploded ! ( but didn't break any teeth ! ) Good Job !!!
Thanks for the video! I'm about to bush the 4th wheel on the time side of a similar round French movement and I'm terribly nervous due to the tiny pivot/ fear I won't find center. I've bushed many American clocks, but mistakes you might be able to get away with on an American clock with larger pivots can stop a French clock dead due to the tiny pivots and wheel teeth. I've been practicing putting tiny bushings in a German "French style" movement that is similar. Sooner or later I'm going to have give it a go! I don't habe a mill--will be using a KWM bushing machine.
Thanks for the tip on pushing the bushing in through the front. I was a little on the fence in terms of dressing it for the oil sink. I liked your method.
Hi Spencer. Another interesting video. It raises a couple of points that are worth bringing o your attention as they may be useful in the future. First, when you first enlarge the worn hole it is usual practice to use a broach for that. Because a broach is five sided it has better self-centring qualities. The problem with ordinary drills is they will tend to "pull" into the worn part rather than maintain the centre as intended - this is particularly true with the small diameters we deal with because the drills also have great ability to flex when being pulled into that worn hole. Second, when reaming (or broaching) to the final size to install the bush this should be done from the inside of the plate towards the outside (and the bush should be inserted that way too). The reason for this is the bush is very slightly tapered and if it fails (that is if it ever "slips" out of its retaining hole) it can only ever move one way - that is inwards into the clock movement where its movement will be stopped by the arbour (to which the pivot running through that bush is attached). If the bush is installed from the outside of the plate the taper is running the other way and if the bush slips is can fall out completely meaning that pivot is no longer supported and the obvious disastrous consequences that can lead to. Hope that is helpful.
Reuasam thank you for your very interesting, constructive and essentially correct comments. Under different circumstances you are completely right and I have since read up on the correct procedure confirming your assertions. But in my defence I would explain my thought process. The sherline mill has a very difficult vice process to secure small items. Once lined up it's best left as setup. I centred and lined up the Mill on the original 0.6mm pivot hole using a 0.6mm drill set as best I could away from the additional elongated section. This gave me centre. I then used a 1.5mm drill which I reasoned would drill centrally - which to see from results seemed correct. I then reamed out this hole with a 1.97 reamer but with one pass only and not a full thru and back. So it was a little under size. I admit I worked from the front (wrong) but as soon as the 2.0mm dia bush found centre and settled I drove it home gently tapping onto a smooth staking block with a 2mm domed smooth stake so that it was riveted by expansion and flush with the inside of the "plate" the plate was a removable action some 2.4m and the bush was set into the oil sink so could be only 1.5 mm thick (I could have use a much bigger bush (but that option didn't occur) in the end l reemed out and burnished the pivot hole to suit the 0.6mm pivot and the clock which was stopping intermittently has been running well for the last 3 weeks. Thank you again for your helpful and correct comments but I had two extenuating circumstances. Firstly the circumstances and set up of the Mill. Secondly "pig ignorance" of a novice - but not all that bad under the circumstances. Kind regards Simon trading as Tenagodus.
I have the same movement in one clock I own was wondering if you have any idea what’s wrong with the one I have the clock keeps stopping at around ten two the hour and it seems like the hour hand is very stiff if you try and turn it clockwise by hand ? Any help would be greatly appreciate
I don't think the hour hand is out of kilter. It should be stiff as it is on a friction spring clutch on the main arbor's hour wheel and I think that's OK. The clock may be stopping at about ten to the hour perhaps because the warning pin on the strike train is not being released to allow the strike train to run. It may be stuck on the little plate inside the front plate on the wishbone detent. This can happen if the warning pin is too close to this plate to let it get enough momentum or if this little plate is not polished smooth. This is just a thought and where I would look first. These clocks have their own traits to annoy you! Good luck Simon