Sorry if this seems messy. Comment with any questions I'll assist in any way I can. Skip to (8:20) to see the bike in pieces. All Balls Steering Head Bearings: sscustomcycle....
Ha Ha, awesome that you got that far. .... Nick, those are called bearing "Races". and Yeah, on most bearings, one is Fixed... and the opposing one will 'float' so to speak.... this "float" compensates for thermal expansion of the bearing against its preload. If the triple-tree gets hot..... you don't want the preload to change and Bind-up the bearing and cause the "stiffness "you mentioned in other vids. The ones that came off when you disassembled the triple tree are the floaters the fixed ones will need to be removed with bearing pullers..... Getting back to your "Clutch handle free-play"..... Tight is Not Good.... Rule of thumb is about 1/8's inch free play on the clutch handle..... So with the clutch handle pull it inwards till you feel resistance from the clutch pack spring.... there should be about 1/8 between the handles back stop and the handle frame..... any more than that ... and you will have a clunky shift from N into 1st ..... any less than that you will slip your clutch pack if the cable binds, or the cable jacket expands, or turning makes the clutch cable pull on the clutch pack lever.... I keep my slack at 1/8" free play. As for the grips just order for a blacked out Bolt..... 10W 40 yamalube oil, .... and 7 weight fork oil, should do it here, for tips. Stay Safe.... Ciao.
Got an update on this? Ive been putting off doing mine coz of peoples mixed results with the bottom bearing race, some comes off easy some extremely difficult. just wanted to see as many vids of people working on this bearing change before i dive on mine.
Yea of course. Long story short, it was extremely difficult for me without the specialty tools. I’d say send it to a professional. It’ll take them no more than a couple hours for roughly $200 at most I’d guess total cost to have it done. Well worth that money
My bad kinda sprinkled throughout the video. It’s partially fixed by correcting steering head bearings. I only did one bearing and there are two total.
I don't understand how replacing head bearings fixes a wobble unless it just increases the steering preload. Maybe just check the preload on the stock bearings
Thank you for making this video I was about to dive into that after work today
I’m so glad that you didn’t 🤣 a shop will do it for like $300 but it’s totally worth it. The bike rides unreal now
Ha Ha, awesome that you got that far. .... Nick, those are called bearing "Races". and Yeah, on most bearings, one is Fixed... and the opposing one will 'float' so to speak.... this "float" compensates for thermal expansion of the bearing against its preload. If the triple-tree gets hot..... you don't want the preload to change and Bind-up the bearing and cause the "stiffness "you mentioned in other vids. The ones that came off when you disassembled the triple tree are the floaters the fixed ones will need to be removed with bearing pullers..... Getting back to your "Clutch handle free-play"..... Tight is Not Good.... Rule of thumb is about 1/8's inch free play on the clutch handle..... So with the clutch handle pull it inwards till you feel resistance from the clutch pack spring.... there should be about 1/8 between the handles back stop and the handle frame..... any more than that ... and you will have a clunky shift from N into 1st ..... any less than that you will slip your clutch pack if the cable binds, or the cable jacket expands, or turning makes the clutch cable pull on the clutch pack lever.... I keep my slack at 1/8" free play.
As for the grips just order for a blacked out Bolt.....
10W 40 yamalube oil, .... and 7 weight fork oil, should do it here, for tips.
Stay Safe.... Ciao.
Thanks so much for the helpful comment, man! I will adjust my clutch today.
good stuff man I diff need to do this with my bolt
When I finish it in the spring I’ll let ya know how she rides
Got an update on this? Ive been putting off doing mine coz of peoples mixed results with the bottom bearing race, some comes off easy some extremely difficult. just wanted to see as many vids of people working on this bearing change before i dive on mine.
Yea of course. Long story short, it was extremely difficult for me without the specialty tools. I’d say send it to a professional. It’ll take them no more than a couple hours for roughly $200 at most I’d guess total cost to have it done. Well worth that money
What did you do to fix the wobble? You never said.
My bad kinda sprinkled throughout the video. It’s partially fixed by correcting steering head bearings. I only did one bearing and there are two total.
Awesome!
Can confirm. Wobble is fixed…
I’m glad it wasn’t just me. Feels like a new ride, right?
Where did you get the dark „furniture“ for the original tachometer?
Just take the top clamp off... 3 bolts... and slide it out.
I don't understand how replacing head bearings fixes a wobble unless it just increases the steering preload. Maybe just check the preload on the stock bearings
Honeslty, I ask the same question. I put it off for so long because I was like, “how is that going to help me” but when I did it I was shocked.
@@SkipRides that still does not answer the question of whether torquing the stock bearings would help.
@@dwhite6213 I don’t know what you mean by toque. You can’t really do anything to them because they’re plastic
more videos bro
Ima try and make more videos
Wow