B vent should be used even if the code allows for single wall flue pipe. Reason being condensate. B vent is actually made with 2 walls. The interior wall is aluminum and designed to heat quickly and stay warm. This keeps the water in the gases from condensing and running back down into your furnace. Also, that water will rust out your single wall pipe (dangerous Co possibility) and the interior top of your furnace. You can order online in 4" sizes from 6" to 60' and the pieces just twist together so it's easy to do.
If I have condensation issues I will change it. Many condo units here I kept single wall vent pipe and no crusty ness by screws or stains as if it’s condensing. Yet I also seen many applications where the pipe rots out quickly from condensation. I own the unit it’s my dads place. Yet we are renting it out currently since my dad is living out of the country for a few years
@@thehvachacker , considering you're furnace and venting is in a conditioned area, the national codes (National Fuel Code and Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association GAMA) do not require a B vent for installation . It is nice if a B vent is installed & KevFlaAVCHD is correct it can eliminate condensing problems especially when 80 plus furnaces are installed in colder basements.
Single walled vent connector for gas requires a 6" clearance to combustibles. Min. 3 screws per joint equidistantly spaced. I recommend the vertical seam face where you can inspect it and not hide it. The pipe should be supported.
I like that the furnace/ac system is located in an outside closet...easy to work on. And you probably don't hear any noise from inside the house when it's on.
I use different lengths of spare rectangular duct drives as supports for long runs of 4" flue pipes. I think they look nice when screwed in and they secure the flue nicely. Good job, Bill.
days off? that is what contractors take during the week, weekends are busiest with "helicopter" homeowners (anti-diy-hvac quote) lol.. clearly I like watching entertaining things. previous bad hackery and good work! ;)
I've learned over the years, never put pipe seams down and no screws within 30 degrees of the pipe bottom. why? while the newer high efficiency furnaces don't condense internally, they always do inside the piping when there's long off-cycles and high humidity basements.. the screw holes are a highway for corrosion to eat them away, as is cold water piping above them sweating and dripping or valve leaking.. I've replaced many that look OK on the outside, then you touch them and the crimped end turns to rust/dust powder inside the next pipe/fitting!
Interesting, so you don’t tape the seams with aluminum tape. I just recently replaced a section of my exhaust, but taped the seems. You can smell the glue from the tape melting when you walk past it. Now, I get to go back and replace it again..
If the pipe is done correctly no tape is needed. There is no way exhaust can come out of the seems. Also the glue in the tape does melt. I never seen anyone that does the work professionally tape seems on flue pipe. Usually just homeowners tape it.
Suggest to use the old smoke pipe a split it apart and use that to partially place and hold around the gas pipe so when you spray you don’t get any over spray :)
Some wd40 should clean the overspray off the cabinet while it's still fresh. Also before you spray you can wipe a thin layer on and the paint won't stick.
Hi there, I enjoyed your video and learned quite a bit. My only complaint is that your GoPro was not properly angled on your head to capture what you intended and I was often looking way below where the action was. It was a bit annoying... like talking to an old person on video conference.
I need to do the exact one. Two elbows and one 4" straight. I was told that we need to use double wall pipe or 24G single wall. It appears that you are using single wall 26G pipe. Is this OK? I couldn't remove the screws from the current one. How do I remove?
Yes both parents systems are operating really good. The live stream I just did playing with new fieldpiece psychrometer was while finally getting to moms maintenance
On the white drain pipe could a elbow be placed on the end then on the side of the unit install the U shaped part? Or does it have to be in the front like that? I’m trying to enclose my unit and that part sticks out past the opening. And advise would help thanks
Interesting, few questions. 1.Are you guys required to paint indoor gas pipe? 2. How come you installed a mid efficient furnace? (I'm guessing it would have been a pain to get the venting out the side of the house?) In Ontario, Canada i don't think we can even get mid efficient furnaces anymore. Also we aren't allowed to use street 90's or closed nipples for gas which sucks because there has been many a time it would have helped make the job go easier.
It's in a outside closet attached to buiding. That space is most likely not condition. Condensing furnaces more or a chance to freeze in that condition. My personal preference is to never install a condensing or high efficient furnace in attic or outside closet. I have seen it 2 times in my career where condensing furnace in attic broke because something failed in furnace. Furnace now sitting for a couple days not running . attic temp is 5 degrees on arrival. Water that was in secondary heat exchanger froze and cracked secondary heat exchanger. Because of little probelm like ignitor or clogged pressure switch tubing cause a much bigger more expensive problem. I will always install 80% furnace in attic or outside closet.....
@@pineychristian , this furnace is in a conditioned room, you can see the register above the furnace plenum. To our Canadian friends to the north, yes we still can buy 80% efficient furnaces down here in the United States ( they're cheaper and a little more reliable than the 90 pluses). The American Gas Association has to fight every year to keep them but we have too many apartment complexes & condo complexes that makes installing 90 plus furnaces in-practical and cost-prohibitive, not to mention the problems jj109 mentioned.
@@boby115 it doesn't make a difference if the room is conditioned if a 90% furnace breaks and sits. It has water in secondary and it will freeze. The conditioned space helps when running. I've seen so many frozen drains on 90% furnaces and then furnace shuts down. Once that happens you only have so much time depending on temps and time not running.
@@pineychristian , I agree with you on most of your points, I was just merely pointing out that this particular utility closet was conditioned. I will disagree with you on it makes no difference whether the 90% plus is in a conditioned area or not after it breaks down. I can assure you I have more time to get to a 90 Plus no heat if it is in a conditioned area. A 90 plus no heat call in an unconditioned area may already be damaged from Ice before I get the telephone call. That being said, I agree with all your other points 👍 just not sure about your statement "it makes no difference ."
I always replace the old style gas cock with a new ball valve type when replacing a water heater or furnace. I've always been told there not aloud by code in NJ and won't pass inspection.
Vents are not required on ac drain lines. They help on long drain lines yet not code in NJ. I trapped the ac refrigeration line to prevent the oil from migrating back and slugging the compressor over the winter. Codes are different everywhere.
I am using the GoPro 6 usually use 1080 60 and linear, wide or super wide I switch through depending what I’m working on. My go pro is holding up, it’s grimy and missing paint in some spots. I’ll upgrade if I ever break it. It’s been dropped, hits stuff all the time. Which one you using or looking at.
A good rule of thumb is within 3 foot of anything combustible horizontal runs! and over 18 inch vertical run! aka ANTI-STOOGE architect or blah custom builder... so many architects's shouldn't be, ALSO so many shouldn't rely upon the builders/contractors tro FIX the upstream darwin mess.... SIGNED as ME... very tired of fixing collegiate stooge idiot messes, because they have zero hands on field work in the field they're trying to design things for.... college was created for folks to enhance their skills, not become brainwashed stooges that pooch the USA over one by one ( oh wait.....)
At times I do. Even though many don’t think this is a part of the HVAC trade. People get made when I put and auto or even a video of a water heater. I can tell by all the thumbs downs yet this channel is me sharing my adventures of anything I work on
@@thehvachacker I wish there was a way to see who gave a thumbs down. I would love to see if they have a channel. I never thumb down any video. Even if I think its horrible. They, like you have the guts to put their stuff out there. I can handle my own in this industry, but doubt I will ever have the confidence to put it out there. You are a great mechanic bro. Never think otherwise.
Is it normal that the flue is unbelievably hot? If i accidentally touched my arm against it, it would create a bad burn. I ask you because I recently upgraded my HVAC sytem from and old 30 year old furnance to a RUUD. The old flue never got this hot; perhaps due to its inefficiencies…
Might want to consider Type B venting pipe for your flue, single wall requires a 6" clearance from combustibles, yet the double wall type b vent only needs 1", this should help keep the heat inside the first layer. Only think is that it can't be cut so you must use the standard pipe lengths.
Yup, flue pipe gets 2nd/3rd degree hot when the furnace is running. I’m not an hvac tech, I’m an oil delivery driver, but I’ve restarted many , many furnaces. Don’t touch the flue when the furnace is on.
careful wiping the pipe dope too clean, the "inspecturds" will cry that you didn't use any "sealant" in the future or sooner on new construction.... been there done that late 90's, the inspector likely still feels a steel toe boot deep up her hind quarters ;)
@@zMorphinTv I had Bryant Furnace install a new 80% furnace and they used 4in single wall flue pipe. They didn't offer anything else like a 90% or better and now I'm getting condensation leaking/dripping through my pipe and onto my floor when furnace is running. The single wall pipe is connected to a chimney liner. My question is would a double wall flue pipe help with condensation? It's only about a total of 10' of single wall pipe with I think 2 90° elbows. I'm widowed and disabled and I think they just wanted to make a quick sale. It was the middle of winter. You would think they would of offered a 90% or above. Thanks for any help.
I HATE round duct assembly. it is 100% equal to chinesium finger trap toy's :))))) endless fight of fury, more so the out of sec JUNK spewn upon us now days ;)
It's kind of distracting trying to watch this when this guy keeps breathing really hard after everything he says "You have to (huff puff) cut in a straight line (huff puff) let me get my 90 (puffffff)" Jesus dude, stop holding your breath and just breath normally
B vent should be used even if the code allows for single wall flue pipe. Reason being condensate. B vent is actually made with 2 walls. The interior wall is aluminum and designed to heat quickly and stay warm. This keeps the water in the gases from condensing and running back down into your furnace. Also, that water will rust out your single wall pipe (dangerous Co possibility) and the interior top of your furnace. You can order online in 4" sizes from 6" to 60' and the pieces just twist together so it's easy to do.
If I have condensation issues I will change it. Many condo units here I kept single wall vent pipe and no crusty ness by screws or stains as if it’s condensing. Yet I also seen many applications where the pipe rots out quickly from condensation. I own the unit it’s my dads place. Yet we are renting it out currently since my dad is living out of the country for a few years
@@thehvachackerTakes time to rust out so just keep an eye on it and you should be ok, but professionally b vent is the way to go.
@@thehvachacker , considering you're furnace and venting is in a conditioned area, the national codes (National Fuel Code and Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association GAMA) do not require a B vent for installation . It is nice if a B vent is installed & KevFlaAVCHD is correct it can eliminate condensing problems especially when 80 plus furnaces are installed in colder basements.
I thought B-Vents were needed due to the fact that the flanges are made for sealing well to keep backpressure from leaking out CO-2
Came here to say this.
Single walled vent connector for gas requires a 6" clearance to combustibles. Min. 3 screws per joint equidistantly spaced. I recommend the vertical seam face where you can inspect it and not hide it. The pipe should be supported.
I like that the furnace/ac system is located in an outside closet...easy to work on. And you probably don't hear any noise from inside the house when it's on.
First Person I’ve seen paint the gas line, your too professional brother! 👍🏻
Using the NFPA 54 you need type B vent double wall pipe
I use different lengths of spare rectangular duct drives as supports for long runs of 4" flue pipes. I think they look nice when screwed in and they secure the flue nicely. Good job, Bill.
what's wrong with galvanized plumbers strap, wrap it around, bolt/nut over-top single piece to ceiling (double for larger pipe/weight)
@@throttlebottle5906 There's nothing wrong with it. I just mentioned how i use something different. Use whatever floats your boat.
You posted on a Sunday night, dedication ya gotta respect that. Hopefully you made the most of your day off.
days off? that is what contractors take during the week, weekends are busiest with "helicopter" homeowners (anti-diy-hvac quote) lol..
clearly I like watching entertaining things. previous bad hackery and good work! ;)
At what point is double wall Flue Pipe required?
I've learned over the years, never put pipe seams down and no screws within 30 degrees of the pipe bottom. why? while the newer high efficiency furnaces don't condense internally, they always do inside the piping when there's long off-cycles and high humidity basements.. the screw holes are a highway for corrosion to eat them away, as is cold water piping above them sweating and dripping or valve leaking.. I've replaced many that look OK on the outside, then you touch them and the crimped end turns to rust/dust powder inside the next pipe/fitting!
Why not B-vent.
Interesting, so you don’t tape the seams with aluminum tape. I just recently replaced a section of my exhaust, but taped the seems. You can smell the glue from the tape melting when you walk past it. Now, I get to go back and replace it again..
If the pipe is done correctly no tape is needed. There is no way exhaust can come out of the seems. Also the glue in the tape does melt. I never seen anyone that does the work professionally tape seems on flue pipe. Usually just homeowners tape it.
Here in Texas you gotta have double wall flue pipe and zero screws :(
Any heat resistant tape?
Crap twist in only 🤦🏻♂️
Dude! Haha. So good until the spray painting. This is very helpful though. I appreciate the video.
Suggest to use the old smoke pipe a split it apart and use that to partially place and hold around the gas pipe so when you spray you don’t get any over spray :)
cardboard cardboard cardboard... everything ships in it now days, much easier to "bend" and no crusty old nastiness inside like old duct/flu piping ;)
Some wd40 should clean the overspray off the cabinet while it's still fresh. Also before you spray you can wipe a thin layer on and the paint won't stick.
Hi looks good but....no b-vent for furnace?
That helps! I need to put a new vent pipe on my water heater since I moved it
Hi there, I enjoyed your video and learned quite a bit. My only complaint is that your GoPro was not properly angled on your head to capture what you intended and I was often looking way below where the action was. It was a bit annoying... like talking to an old person on video conference.
why are you going to paint the black iron?
Street 90 on your gas?? not cool where I'm from
How come your using Snap lock pipe instead of B vent?
Some supply shops only have snap lock in my area (Dallas Georgia ) we use snap lock we have others as well but might have to drive out the way for it
Are those brass gas shut offs legal where you live where I live those are not to code
I need to do the exact one. Two elbows and one 4" straight. I was told that we need to use double wall pipe or 24G single wall. It appears that you are using single wall 26G pipe. Is this OK? I couldn't remove the screws from the current one. How do I remove?
Nice job. .... Pop's is cooling now . that's all that matters
Yes both parents systems are operating really good. The live stream I just did playing with new fieldpiece psychrometer was while finally getting to moms maintenance
There is a gap around the flue pipe where it goes through my foundation, what kind of high temp sealant can I use to seal around that?
Most type s mortars.
High heat furnace cement.
On the white drain pipe could a elbow be placed on the end then on the side of the unit install the U shaped part? Or does it have to be in the front like that? I’m trying to enclose my unit and that part sticks out past the opening. And advise would help thanks
Interesting, few questions.
1.Are you guys required to paint indoor gas pipe?
2. How come you installed a mid efficient furnace? (I'm guessing it would have been a pain to get the venting out the side of the house?)
In Ontario, Canada i don't think we can even get mid efficient furnaces anymore. Also we aren't allowed to use street 90's or closed nipples for gas which sucks because there has been many a time it would have helped make the job go easier.
It's in a outside closet attached to buiding. That space is most likely not condition. Condensing furnaces more or a chance to freeze in that condition.
My personal preference is to never install a condensing or high efficient furnace in attic or outside closet. I have seen it 2 times in my career where condensing furnace in attic broke because something failed in furnace. Furnace now sitting for a couple days not running . attic temp is 5 degrees on arrival. Water that was in secondary heat exchanger froze and cracked secondary heat exchanger. Because of little probelm like ignitor or clogged pressure switch tubing cause a much bigger more expensive problem. I will always install 80% furnace in attic or outside closet.....
@@pineychristian , this furnace is in a conditioned room, you can see the register above the furnace plenum. To our Canadian friends to the north, yes we still can buy 80% efficient furnaces down here in the United States ( they're cheaper and a little more reliable than the 90 pluses). The American Gas Association has to fight every year to keep them but we have too many apartment complexes & condo complexes that makes installing 90 plus furnaces in-practical and cost-prohibitive, not to mention the problems jj109 mentioned.
@@boby115 it doesn't make a difference if the room is conditioned if a 90% furnace breaks and sits. It has water in secondary and it will freeze. The conditioned space helps when running. I've seen so many frozen drains on 90% furnaces and then furnace shuts down. Once that happens you only have so much time depending on temps and time not running.
@@pineychristian , I agree with you on most of your points, I was just merely pointing out that this particular utility closet was conditioned. I will disagree with you on it makes no difference whether the 90% plus is in a conditioned area or not after it breaks down. I can assure you I have more time to get to a 90 Plus no heat if it is in a conditioned area. A 90 plus no heat call in an unconditioned area may already be damaged from Ice before I get the telephone call. That being said, I agree with all your other points 👍 just not sure about your statement "it makes no difference ."
Can I ask why do you spray the gas line for in the uk we get wrong for that
Could I connect a T to it for a generator exhaust for emergencies? I would use a dbl wall.
you did good job on painted ^_^
Hey what’s the part number on those Pilar adjustable wrench you have ?
That looks like a Monet painting Hackster ... Lol ... Good vid as usual ...
No, no, a little overspray on the cabinet. :)
I always replace the old style gas cock with a new ball valve type when replacing a water heater or furnace. I've always been told there not aloud by code in NJ and won't pass inspection.
because they always leak after being turned ;)
99% guaranteed leak!
Your AC drain line needs a vent. Is the vent after the water heater and furnace 6” or more? The AC Freon line has an oil trap.
Vents are not required on ac drain lines. They help on long drain lines yet not code in NJ. I trapped the ac refrigeration line to prevent the oil from migrating back and slugging the compressor over the winter. Codes are different everywhere.
why is the furnace pipe connected to the hot water heater vented pipe?
Called a common vent
Why are you heating hot water?
Greeting from 🇩🇿 Algeria
What you call that tool you cramp the elbow ?
Good job.
What kind of camera do you use? What display settings do you use on your camera?
I am using the GoPro 6 usually use 1080 60 and linear, wide or super wide I switch through depending what I’m working on. My go pro is holding up, it’s grimy and missing paint in some spots. I’ll upgrade if I ever break it. It’s been dropped, hits stuff all the time. Which one you using or looking at.
@@thehvachacker I have the 7 but I was trying to figure out the settings. Thank you for the response. I enjoy your videos
That snap together stuff is a bear. I had to ask a friend for help with a 3" pipe.
Roll it as tight as u can before pitting it together helps a lot
When do you have to go with double wall smoke pipe?
In the wall
A good rule of thumb is within 3 foot of anything combustible horizontal runs! and over 18 inch vertical run!
aka ANTI-STOOGE architect or blah custom builder... so many architects's shouldn't be, ALSO so many shouldn't rely upon the builders/contractors tro FIX the upstream darwin mess....
SIGNED as ME... very tired of fixing collegiate stooge idiot messes, because they have zero hands on field work in the field they're trying to design things for....
college was created for folks to enhance their skills, not become brainwashed stooges that pooch the USA over one by one ( oh wait.....)
How much of that vent has to double wall?
Only were it goes into the ceiling and up the chase. Since clearance is limited
You do great work bro. You should do this for a living.😜
At times I do. Even though many don’t think this is a part of the HVAC trade. People get made when I put and auto or even a video of a water heater. I can tell by all the thumbs downs yet this channel is me sharing my adventures of anything I work on
@@thehvachacker I wish there was a way to see who gave a thumbs down. I would love to see if they have a channel. I never thumb down any video. Even if I think its horrible. They, like you have the guts to put their stuff out there. I can handle my own in this industry, but doubt I will ever have the confidence to put it out there. You are a great mechanic bro. Never think otherwise.
Is it normal that the flue is unbelievably hot? If i accidentally touched my arm against it, it would create a bad burn. I ask you because I recently upgraded my HVAC sytem from and old 30 year old furnance to a RUUD. The old flue never got this hot; perhaps due to its inefficiencies…
Might want to consider Type B venting pipe for your flue, single wall requires a 6" clearance from combustibles, yet the double wall type b vent only needs 1", this should help keep the heat inside the first layer. Only think is that it can't be cut so you must use the standard pipe lengths.
C vent yes. Single wall pipe. 80% furnaces waste 20% to the chimney so pipe is about 100f
Yup, flue pipe gets 2nd/3rd degree hot when the furnace is running.
I’m not an hvac tech, I’m an oil delivery driver, but I’ve restarted many , many furnaces.
Don’t touch the flue when the furnace is on.
careful wiping the pipe dope too clean, the "inspecturds" will cry that you didn't use any "sealant" in the future or sooner on new construction....
been there done that late 90's, the inspector likely still feels a steel toe boot deep up her hind quarters ;)
Hard to paint over the dope
Yet some inspect are butthurt they couldn’t hack it doing any kind of work.
Am I wrong or you are usin 30 gage pipe. 6 footers?
You can see the duct says "26 GA" at 2:17
Vent pipe :)))) Call the inspector:)
3 srew per join. . Union gas code.
Nice paint job...lol
No dual wall and 3 screw not 2
lol this man crazy always use dbl wall its a flue smh
@@zMorphinTv I had Bryant Furnace install a new 80% furnace and they used 4in single wall flue pipe. They didn't offer anything else like a 90% or better and now I'm getting condensation leaking/dripping through my pipe and onto my floor when furnace is running. The single wall pipe is connected to a chimney liner. My question is would a double wall flue pipe help with condensation? It's only about a total of 10' of single wall pipe with I think 2 90° elbows. I'm widowed and disabled and I think they just wanted to make a quick sale. It was the middle of winter. You would think they would of offered a 90% or above. Thanks for any help.
WHY NOT DO IT RIGHT WITH b VENT
Why not do it correctly with single wall vent pipe. I’m doing what the code calls for in nj
many places code allows single wall until within 3 foot of structure ( I think that's right) middle age and forgetful...
You look very tired,get some rest get a snicker😀
I wouldn't feel safe using you to install any system.
HORRIBLE FRIGHT :))) is what I call it
Zinc Oxide factory.
Le Cabaret!
6
This was very painful to watch……..
I HATE round duct assembly. it is 100% equal to chinesium finger trap toy's :)))))
endless fight of fury, more so the out of sec JUNK spewn upon us now days ;)
It's kind of distracting trying to watch this when this guy keeps breathing really hard after everything he says
"You have to (huff puff) cut in a straight line (huff puff) let me get my 90 (puffffff)" Jesus dude, stop holding your breath and just breath normally
bro you dont have to be here, go watch another hvac tech that holds his breath for you.