Excellent follow-up to a fantastic video. Shortly after buying my 17 Mazda 3 2.5 A/T, it began to get dogged when downshift time came around. It only had 72,000 on it so I tried the re-learn -- worked the first attempt, and did make the car much smother by not delaying needed downshifts for hills / slow downs: MUCH KUDOS to the writer here!!! I was hoping it would also fix another nuisance -- when passing a car at say 50 & ending acceleration at 80-90, it would take about 5 seconds to shift up through each successive gear if I let off the throttle sharply. Maybe it was engineered that way -- because it still does the same, unless I carry partial throttle after the pass, then it shifts leisurely, but much quicker. I find myself commonly going into manual so that I can quickly complete the upshifts without wasting engine wear & fuel & momentum being lost. Changing out 3.5 quarts of the Z fluid with the recommended Amsoil also make it feel more buttery. I'm going to do that a couple more times & change the filter and gingerly snug the valve body bolts.
the transmission is programmed to downshift at the lowest allowable RPM for that gear to save fuel. Upshifts are delayed because the AT is trying to understand what your next move is (light, moderate, high throttle,) making sure it is prepared in case you suddenly demand more throttle.
@@pikachupowers Thanks. I thought that might be the case -- thanks for validation. I get around it now by either slowly backing off from full throttle or flipping to manual & bang out the upshifts quickly.
I did this on my 2023 last week with our scan tool at work, yes you do need to BURY your foot into the brake pedal at least halfway down to get it to go, even if it says all criteria are met you absolutely need to push the brake pedal down harder. Seems to have cured a few complaints I had like low speed bumping, hard downshift when transitioning from coasting to on throttle, and a dragging 1-2 upshift. Other upshifts feel sharper now as well and down shifts feel slightly better. Seems it did learn some bad habits during break in when it was new.
Appreciate your first video and this follow up video. I have a 2024 CX-50 TPP where I was experiencing issues which led me to your first video. My question is, do you have any driving advice or do's / don'ts for preventing the transmission from re-learning the same jerky shifting problem(s)? I read a comment from someone in your first video about how they were probably "a little too cautious at first during the engine's 600 mile break-in period". I, too, am a pretty cautious driver and typically try to "coast" to a stop vs heavy acceleration + braking. Is this a driving behavior which may lead to the jerky downshifting in lower gears? Please share any of your thoughts on "do's and don'ts" for driving if you have any. Thanks again for the informative videos.
Mazda skyactive transmission tear down deep dive video next, i could watch these for hours! Interesting that cx-9 burnt up the transmissin at 100k. Our 2016 cx-5 is still going strong, ive changed the fluid twice though.
Had my car since 50k miles (233k now) and I've always hated always how the tranny shifted to the highest gear so much that i exclusively drive in manual mode. Once I've done this procedure it always held lower gear as long as I wanted.
My CX-30 transmission shifted like an advanced Parkinson’s patient trying to learn stick for the first time. Several times it would free rev like it was in neutral and catch like you dropped the clutch, and then on steep hills if I came to a stop and tried to go again it would act like it was in 4th gear and trying to go. Like if you tried to take off on a hill in 4th instead of 1st or 2nd. I’d have to floor it to go 10 mph. I wasn’t happy with mine. I even did two spill and fills with a filter change and that still didn’t help at all.
Hi, is it possible in your opinion to change the sixth gear ratio of the transmission? I have a 2020 Mazda 3 Diesel that reached 140 km/h the engine revs are 3000 rpm, too much and the car downhill decelerates and does not sail. Is there a solution for you? Thanks in advance
Thank you for all things you do for us, great content. I have question for my NA2.5 cx 50 I know this video is about transmission. But I have this weird humming between 70km to 90km from the back of the car. Dealer keep saying it’s normal or they don’t hear anything. I’m trying to figure it out. Do have any info on that you can share. Thanks again
It is likely something to do with the pinion bearing, the 3, CX-30 and CX-50 use a double roller style that can make a high pitch noise. I recently had my rear differential replaced(axle seal failed) with the updated unit that started production in 2023 and neither my original diff or my replacement make the noise. I would have to spend some time with one that makes the noise but that is my suspicion.
Would you happen to know when in 2023? I have a 3 AWD that was built in February 2023 and I noticed a gear whine from the rear end at freeway speeds as well, but if it's "normal" for it then I won't bring it up. Thanks again for the insightful videos!
Not really related to the transmission, but any idea what the humming noise when you first get in the car is? It also happens if you leave the car sit for a while and then press the start button. I wonder if it's a fuel pump but not sure.
Brilliant video, Sir! I applaud your efforts to help us car normies. I'm curious if initiating the relearn protocol could result in better mpg. I bought my 2021 mazda3 fwd 2.5NA used and I only get 23.5. I suspect the lower mpg could be due to the driving dynamic learned from the previous owner
Just try it. It should. We have a Mazda 3 AWD 2.5T, and I did this a couple of weeks back. I always used to get about 21 mpg or less driving in the city. After doing the relearn, I've noticed an improvement, and it's in the 24-27 mpg range in the city. Gets way better on the highway as long as I avoid overtaking too much.
When they update programming after TCM swap (I did the swap myself and then had shop program) would that also put it back to learning mode or should I still try this? Would love to pick your brain about TCM issues, tried to msg you on Mazda 24/7 but I'm new on there and it wouldn't let me. Ran perfectly for a month after the swap and now acting up again:( Trying to exhaust all options before tackling a full transmission swap. Thanks!
I recently purchased a 2013 Mazda 6 GT 2.5L Petrol with 140,000 km. While driving at 50 km/h, if I release the gas pedal, I notice a slight pull when the speed drops to 40 km/h and the RPM dips to around 1000. At that point, the RPM rises slightly to 1200-1300, followed by a small push as it drops back to 1000. What could be causing this? Can I perform the initial learning procedure on my 2013 Mazda 6, and is the process the same?
I have a question because I’ve performed the relearn procedure on my 24 turbo sedan and a lot of the time when it’s cold a and it shifts to second I’m guessing when it lock the torque converter in quite abrupt. The relearn procedure didn’t help is that an issue with the turbo models or is it normal behavior when cold ( transmission not ambient temp)
It's pretty common when fluid temp is low it will delay converter lockup until midway through 2nd, sometimes when shifting to third. It will almost feel like a mini shift, bump. Once fluid temp is above 90*f, it will start locking sooner.
@@21mazda3turbo3 thanks for the reply put a little more at ease. I thought something was wrong with it. As it hadn’t done up untill like 2 or 3 weeks ago and I’ve only had like 2 months.
I’ve been having to climb a hill up right after starting the car because of a detour, I did the relearning process but the car feels the same, holding the low gear longer than I expected when going down hill, feeling a jerk when I stop on a light, and running on low rpm while pressing the brake pedal (causing vibrations) is it possible that the system learn that quickly to have the same behaviour? Thanks for the help.
Fixed my 2018 trans issues I was having for over a year. Followed your video and it's been good for over a month now. Thank you again.
Appreciate all the work and videos you put out on our platform. Thank you
Absolutely invaluable information to the community there's not a whole lot of info out there about the sky active engines or transmissions on UA-cam
Excellent follow-up to a fantastic video. Shortly after buying my 17 Mazda 3 2.5 A/T, it began to get dogged when downshift time came around. It only had 72,000 on it so I tried the re-learn -- worked the first attempt, and did make the car much smother by not delaying needed downshifts for hills / slow downs: MUCH KUDOS to the writer here!!! I was hoping it would also fix another nuisance -- when passing a car at say 50 & ending acceleration at 80-90, it would take about 5 seconds to shift up through each successive gear if I let off the throttle sharply. Maybe it was engineered that way -- because it still does the same, unless I carry partial throttle after the pass, then it shifts leisurely, but much quicker. I find myself commonly going into manual so that I can quickly complete the upshifts without wasting engine wear & fuel & momentum being lost. Changing out 3.5 quarts of the Z fluid with the recommended Amsoil also make it feel more buttery. I'm going to do that a couple more times & change the filter and gingerly snug the valve body bolts.
the transmission is programmed to downshift at the lowest allowable RPM for that gear to save fuel. Upshifts are delayed because the AT is trying to understand what your next move is (light, moderate, high throttle,) making sure it is prepared in case you suddenly demand more throttle.
@@pikachupowers Thanks. I thought that might be the case -- thanks for validation. I get around it now by either slowly backing off from full throttle or flipping to manual & bang out the upshifts quickly.
@@geeder9086 immediately reapply gentle cruising throttle application. or use the flappy paddles. it will understand.
I did this on my 2023 last week with our scan tool at work, yes you do need to BURY your foot into the brake pedal at least halfway down to get it to go, even if it says all criteria are met you absolutely need to push the brake pedal down harder. Seems to have cured a few complaints I had like low speed bumping, hard downshift when transitioning from coasting to on throttle, and a dragging 1-2 upshift. Other upshifts feel sharper now as well and down shifts feel slightly better. Seems it did learn some bad habits during break in when it was new.
Appreciate your first video and this follow up video. I have a 2024 CX-50 TPP where I was experiencing issues which led me to your first video. My question is, do you have any driving advice or do's / don'ts for preventing the transmission from re-learning the same jerky shifting problem(s)? I read a comment from someone in your first video about how they were probably "a little too cautious at first during the engine's 600 mile break-in period".
I, too, am a pretty cautious driver and typically try to "coast" to a stop vs heavy acceleration + braking. Is this a driving behavior which may lead to the jerky downshifting in lower gears? Please share any of your thoughts on "do's and don'ts" for driving if you have any.
Thanks again for the informative videos.
Personally I would just drive it like you normally do. If it is jerking badly you may have an issue with it.
Thanks for the knowledge and this update. Though I didn’t do the reset yet because I mainly drive in mqnual mode and don’t feel the need to reset.
Mazda skyactive transmission tear down deep dive video next, i could watch these for hours!
Interesting that cx-9 burnt up the transmissin at 100k. Our 2016 cx-5 is still going strong, ive changed the fluid twice though.
Had my car since 50k miles (233k now) and I've always hated always how the tranny shifted to the highest gear so much that i exclusively drive in manual mode. Once I've done this procedure it always held lower gear as long as I wanted.
My CX-30 transmission shifted like an advanced Parkinson’s patient trying to learn stick for the first time. Several times it would free rev like it was in neutral and catch like you dropped the clutch, and then on steep hills if I came to a stop and tried to go again it would act like it was in 4th gear and trying to go. Like if you tried to take off on a hill in 4th instead of 1st or 2nd. I’d have to floor it to go 10 mph.
I wasn’t happy with mine. I even did two spill and fills with a filter change and that still didn’t help at all.
Hi, is it possible in your opinion to change the sixth gear ratio of the transmission?
I have a 2020 Mazda 3 Diesel that reached 140 km/h the engine revs are 3000 rpm, too much and the car downhill decelerates and does not sail.
Is there a solution for you?
Thanks in advance
Thank you for all things you do for us, great content. I have question for my NA2.5 cx 50 I know this video is about transmission. But I have this weird humming between 70km to 90km from the back of the car. Dealer keep saying it’s normal or they don’t hear anything. I’m trying to figure it out. Do have any info on that you can share. Thanks again
It is likely something to do with the pinion bearing, the 3, CX-30 and CX-50 use a double roller style that can make a high pitch noise. I recently had my rear differential replaced(axle seal failed) with the updated unit that started production in 2023 and neither my original diff or my replacement make the noise. I would have to spend some time with one that makes the noise but that is my suspicion.
Would you happen to know when in 2023? I have a 3 AWD that was built in February 2023 and I noticed a gear whine from the rear end at freeway speeds as well, but if it's "normal" for it then I won't bring it up. Thanks again for the insightful videos!
2024 cx5 2.0NA+6AT got same issue
Not really related to the transmission, but any idea what the humming noise when you first get in the car is? It also happens if you leave the car sit for a while and then press the start button. I wonder if it's a fuel pump but not sure.
Maybe a water pump?
does your model have a HUD? i’ve always assumed this was a cover over the HUD opening itself
Great stuff there
What model is your Autel? Thank you.
Brilliant video, Sir! I applaud your efforts to help us car normies. I'm curious if initiating the relearn protocol could result in better mpg. I bought my 2021 mazda3 fwd 2.5NA used and I only get 23.5. I suspect the lower mpg could be due to the driving dynamic learned from the previous owner
Just try it. It should.
We have a Mazda 3 AWD 2.5T, and I did this a couple of weeks back.
I always used to get about 21 mpg or less driving in the city. After doing the relearn, I've noticed an improvement, and it's in the 24-27 mpg range in the city.
Gets way better on the highway as long as I avoid overtaking too much.
When they update programming after TCM swap (I did the swap myself and then had shop program) would that also put it back to learning mode or should I still try this? Would love to pick your brain about TCM issues, tried to msg you on Mazda 24/7 but I'm new on there and it wouldn't let me. Ran perfectly for a month after the swap and now acting up again:( Trying to exhaust all options before tackling a full transmission swap. Thanks!
Yes after reprogramming it will need to do the relearn procedure.
I do initial re learning without connect computer
I recently purchased a 2013 Mazda 6 GT 2.5L Petrol with 140,000 km. While driving at 50 km/h, if I release the gas pedal, I notice a slight pull when the speed drops to 40 km/h and the RPM dips to around 1000. At that point, the RPM rises slightly to 1200-1300, followed by a small push as it drops back to 1000. What could be causing this? Can I perform the initial learning procedure on my 2013 Mazda 6, and is the process the same?
The learning process is the same for all the 6 speed Skyactivs. You may be feeling the TCC operate on a downshift.
@@21mazda3turbo3 The idle rpm did not increase for me.
I have a question because I’ve performed the relearn procedure on my 24 turbo sedan and a lot of the time when it’s cold a and it shifts to second I’m guessing when it lock the torque converter in quite abrupt. The relearn procedure didn’t help is that an issue with the turbo models or is it normal behavior when cold ( transmission not ambient temp)
It's pretty common when fluid temp is low it will delay converter lockup until midway through 2nd, sometimes when shifting to third. It will almost feel like a mini shift, bump. Once fluid temp is above 90*f, it will start locking sooner.
@@21mazda3turbo3 thanks for the reply put a little more at ease. I thought something was wrong with it. As it hadn’t done up untill like 2 or 3 weeks ago and I’ve only had like 2 months.
I’ve been having to climb a hill up right after starting the car because of a detour, I did the relearning process but the car feels the same, holding the low gear longer than I expected when going down hill, feeling a jerk when I stop on a light, and running on low rpm while pressing the brake pedal (causing vibrations) is it possible that the system learn that quickly to have the same behaviour? Thanks for the help.
That is likely part of the base shift scheduling and not anything that can be done about that until TCM access comes.
Let the car warm up first
Maybe next time you buy a car u can shift yourself if you’re picky.
Rather than expect an arbitrary machine to do what you expect