This thing sucks to replace! - E46 Steering Angle Sensor DIY Replacement
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- When I try to read all the modules on the car with my scan tool, I can't see them. I can only see the engine and transmission computer with a basic ODB2 scan tool. Upon diagnosing this, I realized my steering angle sensor was bad and blocking access to the rest of the modules. In this video I will show you how I diagnosed that, how I replaced the sensor, and how I calibrated it.
Thanks to www.oembimmerparts.com for providing the parts for this job:
oembimmerparts.com/products/b...
00:00:00 Intro
00:01:32 How to diagnose no OBD2 communication
00:06:06 Removing the trim behind the steering wheel
00:07:22 Using a multimeter to diagnose ODB2 connector problems
00:09:01 Overview of the job
00:10:53 This is an advanced DIY
00:12:26 Removing the upper steering joint bolt
00:13:18 Removing the lower steering joint
00:15:05 Separating the steering joint
00:17:46 Remove the brake sensor bracket and bolt holding the steering shaft up
00:18:57 Remove the stop washer and plastic fitting
00:20:32 Removing the steering angle sensor
00:22:43 Installing the new sensor
00:24:06 DON'T FORGET TO INDEX THE SENSOR!
00:26:13 Make sure the washer doesn't get trapped behind the shield
00:27:19 Putting it all back together
00:30:01 Verify the new steering angle sensor has fixed the OBD2 problem
00:30:47 Something to wash out for when putting the steering shaft back in
00:32:41 Calibrating the steering angle sensor with the Launch
00:33:31 Wrap-up
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. - Авто та транспорт
The intro is very cool. I’m very grateful for your time and effort that you put in in all your videos. You helped me and thousands other people.Not all heroes wear capes, some wear bandanas
Once again Jason, helping us all keep our E46’s on the road. THANK YOU!
One tip that can save DIY'er time: Remove the split white collar from the washer under the dash FIRST. Install the split white collar LAST. Doing this allow you to move the outboard connecting shaft up and down since this split white collar would restrict this up and down movement. With a lot more up and down movement, you have easier access to the upper and lower E10 bolts plus it makes it easier to remove and re-install the connecting shaft. I removed the connecting shaft after jacking up the BMW. There may be a stiffener frame in the way but that is easily removable. Remove the bottom E10 bolt first, then move the connecting shaft "up" and out of the lower engaging joint. Then you move the connecting shaft "down" and then you will have very easy upper E10 bolt. I did a lot of cursing before I realized what to do.
You saved me a ton of time and effort. I took off the e10 up top first then the plastic collar with the washer and it telescoped into the cabin. Didn’t have to remove the lower steering shaft at all. Thanks for the help.
Jason, For all of us BMW guys,it’s always a discovery. You helped me with my Vanos seal replacement with the upgraded seals. I use red sharpies to mark orientation on all moving/loosened parts. Your are an asset way more than an ass. Some of these kid mech’s kill me with their lack of lubricants and anti seize. Lube all vanos parts with new motor oil when replacing seals. Oil, anti-seize and grease are your friends, occasionally heat. Thank you so much. Now I need those bumper skin blocks that hold the skin on, left/right, somebody broke them.
Mate the effort and the patience you have is out of thos world..
Lord bless your soul. I asked an Indy to do a brake sensor because I didn't have time to do it a few years ago. I ended up doing the angle sensor blind because of what they tore up.
Your videos have saved my ass and made me a better "mechanic." I've gotten to the point that I feel that if someone put this crap together, I can fix it. It is all Industrial Lego... all the way down.
Take care, and happy hunting!
Great job Jason,
I also had the problem with this sensor before, only I had removed the entire steering column and replaced one demolition screw with a normal screw!
Your version of the repair is just a lot easier.
lg.mike
Aww man, sorry you had to go through that
My back got sore, just watching this. 😛
Hey Jason, I had a very similar problem on my e39. Only the engine ecu was available and I couldn't get access to any other module. Turns out I had a really bad earth due to water ingress under the drivers floor LHS towards the rocker. Once I replaced the earth connector, all was good. I'm actually going to publish a video about it soon. Thanks again for another great video and for letting me know about another e46 fix I didn't know I have awaiting me lol!! Your tutorials are 2nd to none!
Glad to see you making e46 again, keep up whit the good work, you are a legend!
Great job Jason,
Awesome video again.
I had also the similar bus debugging problems before. According to WDS:
...
The diagnosis bus (D-bus, TXD link) transmits data between the DIS and a control unit. The control unit to be subject to diagnosis is selected by sending a diagnosis telegram to the control unit address. In this way, on request of the tester, the control unit can convey status information and the contents of the fault code memory or activate a control unit output.
The data flow of the indicator instruments and audio system mainly takes place via the instrumentation bus (I-bus) . For instance, the data for the check control module, on-board computer, IKE display, multi-information display, navigation, radio and the telephone are transmitted on this bus.
The body bus (K-bus) is responsible for the data exchange of telegrams that are required throughout the system. For instance, the ZKE and the IHK are connected to the K-bus. The K-bus is technically identical to the I-bus.
...
The IKE is the bus master for the I-bus/K-bus. It serves as a gateway for the D-bus that converts the telegram format of the I/K-bus to the format of the D-bus. It transmits and receives data from all modules and control units connected to the IKE via the bus systems.
...
See also www.bimmernav.com/images/ibus.jpg
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the vid! Just did this and was going to film for my channel glad I didn't. I couldn't get the steering shaft back on for the life of me. Thanks for the great e46 content.
Great video as usual. I have a RHD car (UK). "This is doing wonders for my back". I bet.
Whenever I do anything under the driver's foot well I remove the driver's seat so I can lay down in the car and get right under there comfortably.
When I replaced my FSR I found it impossible to do the job working through the doorway at arms length. Just couldn't do it.
Removing the seat is 3 screws and 2 nuts. Takes 5 minutes. Disconnect the battery about 10 minutes before you disconnect the harness
beneath the seat because that's a part of the air bag circuit. You need the make sure that the air bag capacitor is discharged.
I've changed the guibo before and the screwdriver hammer thing opening it just a bit helps down there too. Good job, I hope my sensor never dies.
Love the intro to video.. Keep up the great work. Much appreciated.
Love the new intro 👍
I would of cried at least 4 times doing this job. Nice work
Love your videos. The one you did on the Altima helped me massively when I had to replace the cylinder head in 2019. Kudos!
Oh, even the ones you've done about AC recharging or repairs.
Awesome video from the 50s kid...🙏
You have lot of patience sir 👍
Now the back is another issue 😅
Sweet, sweet intro. Love it!!
Man this is a great resource! Thanks Jason
Impressive,. well done, thank you for sharing dear!
JASON YOU LOOOK WAY SLIMMER 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks!
I have to service the steering rack on an E39 and your video is the one I'll be referring to.
Awesome intro! 👏
Thx, learned something new from you diagnosis process. Might have that same OBD communication problem on a kia I have
Excellent video mate, thank you ! As I’m on OZ with RHD it is a bit different but thanks for the education , my mechanic & I will watch video again before attempting the job. Thanks mate for all your excellent tutorials - always appreciated!😇👍🧰🔧🇦🇺
glad to see you back man!
I'm on the e60 now with the m54 and diamond key so your videos are still helping 😅
Legend as always, really hoping mine needs a simple reset and not a replacement 😅🤞
Cool intro 👌🏼
Awesome 👍🏼
omfg thank you so much!!!
yeah the DSC3 cars seem to do that. i read about it in a forum before... but some how also helped me solve all my DSC issues on my m52/m54 intake conversion and yeah its a seriously annoying location on m54 and notoriously difficult bolts on the steering shaft
I guess I lucked out, because my daughter owns a BMW E39, instead of an E46. Haynes Manual (page 10-25) explains how to extricate the SAS. It's not easy, but much easier than what is shown for E46... To wit, all work is done under the dashboard. No need to lift the hood, at all, let alone lift car and get under car!
Lol. Awesome intro.
50skikd is outstanding used your site extensively when my son and I dropped a m54b30 into his e30. Great resource for everything e46 and very detailed, thanks for all your hard work! I was wondering if anyone has tried plugging a new sensor in without removing the old one, recalibrate the new one while its hanging from the connector and see if codes clear prior to tackling this job? If not any opinion on if this might work or not to narrow down a trifecta light situation?
Thank you and FJB
ObiWan Kenobi would be proud of you.
Tks Jason nice video , i have a question , i gonna repaced the water pump and termostat on my e46 330ci , What brand do you recommend .
After owning and repairing bmw's since 1984 I am trying to think exactly what repair bmw makes easy........still thinking. Maybe cabin air filter or engine air filter on some older models......that's about it.
It's actually easier to get through the wheel coupling from under the car you just take off the the aluminum cover shield and used a 8mm ratcheting wrench or a E8 socket and you're good to go.
im getting ready to do one at my shop would it be easier just to remove the steering column
16:35 I've made a rule for myself, dont ever say "imma torque these later" because there is a chance you forget
Very helpful. I'm in bmtroubleyou hell right now. Bought a new to me E46 after I've had a few.
Dealing with low voltage input to maf. Replaced maf with a Hitachi.
Now I'm running rich
Front 02s are negative 8% on long trim & the system doesn't recognize them.
I have manual steering too. Ews faults & dsc Brief interruption..
I'm thinking it's the DSC now. Still unsure?
Pin out test show 8.5 volts plugged in on the steering angle. Nothing when it's unplugged..
I'm leaning to dsc module & the Hitachi maf is asking for more fuel.
Just replaced fuel filter too.
Abs module is saying I'm 80 to 100mph on all the speed sensor.doing a crawl in a parking lot.. Thankfully I don't have steering control module out. Swipes on that module are good from lock to lock & I can measure value.
@15:30 ... that steering giubo (flex disc) is in there so freakin tight the first time it needs to come out.
I need to go through these same troubleshooting steps as I cant get ISTA to connect at all. Where did you pull the wiring diagrams? Out of ISTA or was there a site?
Need some advice here. So, I am not able to lock my inner steering column. The key tumbler locks the steering wheel from turning right and left. The colum lever locks the steering wheel in place. But, the inner column just moves in and out no matter if its locked. This is making it harder to get the intermediate colum/shaft back on... I did it though, by wedging a pry bar between the washer and the plastic cover for the column grommet at the firewall.
My question is, before putting it back together, do I have another problem I should look into with the inner steering column not locking. I think this might be my steering wheel vibration at 70mph.
Thank you the good videos.
My INPA is not detecting the steering angel sensor so I likely need a new one? I loathe under dash work.
Hi mate ive took my column off now when ive went to fit it its fully telescoped out and wont go back in any idea thanks
So on my car the inter steering shaft will not slide up or down to be able to remove the sensor… your thoughts am I missing a step?
Besides not reading the codes what other problems will it cause?
By any change do you have a video working on the heat & A/C housing box? Under the dash? Their is some flaps with seals that on mine are broken so hot air mixes with cold air
Not yet
Do you need a scanning tool to recalibrate or are there some other ways of doing too?
does it need to be recalibrated after installing a new one?
Any thoughts on “brush repair kit” ? Could save some $ rather than replacing the whole sensor
Older bmws are a big pain in the a, I did an overhaul of my cooling system cost me $1k plus the headaches, than my ews went out, and now my car won’t start again just two weeks after replacing the starter. I think I’ve gone clinically insane
If you dont know how to work on ur own shit and not a resourceful on shopping for parts, it's a big world of hurt, even still if u are lol
You got ripped off lmao
@@GokuTheHusky I replaced everything tho including new radiator and
@@GokuTheHusky Big time lmaoo
@@GokuTheHusky Sorry take that back, if he got someone to do the work 1k is a lil excessive but not far off
Hi how are you is there any were i can get oil pump for 2003 z4 Thankyou
I have a 91 CAN Torque Reduction fault and I can’t find any videos about it do you know of anything I can look at?
Is it said anywhere what was the issue that made him look for a solution ???
If my cruise control still works does that rule out it being a module?
👍
Which Launch Scanner do you use?
Did you have any other signs that it is something wrong with the car? ESP light on?
If this device fails, can it affect the 4x4 of a BMW X3?
did u open the old one? maybe you could rescue it, and its only a ground problem, by the way nice job, did that one already.
I did not
Hi there. Quick question. where did you find these diagrams? (schematics)?
Is this the same location for the e90? Specifically 325i
Under dash work is a miserable pain in the ass when you’re 6’2 250lbs.
its miserable even if u r 170lbs like me lol
It sucks at 5’9” 155lbs too!
Probably the most irritating thing to change on an E46!
It's even worse on the xi,xd models!
You should try this on an e85… never again!
Hey, my guy I have a 04 325I E46 5speed that's jerking bad in1st and 2nd get really bad with a/c on..
Any direction you can point me in
I did not have the time or the back to do that. I let the dealer take care of it.
Lol al the hate these E46's get because people keep buying lemons haha.
I've been watching your videos for a while now because I've been doing my E46 2002 for like 6 years what's the value in it who would like to even buy it because I'm interested in selling it
i did this on a volvo s60, it made me quit my job as a mechanic XD no but it's truly horrible
Lol, where in the diagram is A1 Light Control Module?
Guess you're not showing all pages, as you have a pretty good optioned car?
So much easier on an E39. The whole job can be done under the dash . No steering rod work.
Hello, how can i contact you about the business cooperation?
I thought you converted your e46 to a manual tranny a few years back, yet I only see a brake pedal...what gives?
Just take out whole steering column
I thought your car was a manual now
I switched it back years ago when I had to do a lot of freeway crawling/traffic for a new job
Damn man you lost some weight!
What did BMW make easy? Nothing.
Opening your wallet..
Jesus, one module can fail by way of shorting to ground, which then takes out your ability to read all the other modules. That is a bad, bad failure mode that they should have engineered out but didn't. It also makes me laugh because even in a 20 year old car like ours with relatively simple electronics by modern standards, something like this can still happen.
Why is a steering angle sensor even necessary in a car with regular (non-variable damping) suspension? Presumably it exists as a check on the front wheel speed sensors to detect faults in the DSC, but even that seems like overkill. A simpler way to design the fault detection would be to clock virtual mileages for the LF and RF wheels, and if they diverge by more than say 2% over 1000 miles, send up a CEL. It'll be a known issue on cars driven exclusively on oval tracks and will average out for everyone else.
So aggravating.
Edit: I guess it could have been worse. At least you didn't have to lower the subframe.
Edit 2: I thought you were insane when you mentioned doing it in the junkyard. For a job like this that you don't want to do again for 20 years, I would never ever ever install a used sensor. Weigh $150 for the new part vs. the time you'd have to spend redoing the job. I'm glad you ultimately put in a new one.
Yep that’s why I didn’t end up putting it in. I typically go to the junkyard to learn what I need to know that way I can do the job with confidence on video. But, yeah, I didn’t really want to put in a used sensor so I put it off for a while.
hello Jason help to see this as I think I have to do this to one day and a lot more lol keep the video's coming did you receive my message on face book messenger on the 22 May 2022 as i would like to here from you as i help many thank TonyLou
Just take out whole steering column