you could install a valve between the lid and the airlock, so you could close the valve, remove the airlock and then install the pressure transfer kit, open the valve again and do the transfer. By this way no oxygen will have a opportunity to enter the system. That's the point of a close transfer!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Sorry, I'm from the Netherlands, what do you mean with did you suggest it directly? You mean to GF? Thanks in advance, love your video's!
Interesting David, thank you. Not one for me presently but at least am aware of it. Hope Imake give you a good deal on the bits you review. At one time they made an effort and put knowledge of their new products out there ( I live in NZ by the way) by means of email bulletins, weekly even. These days.....zip. But for you here, or on FB.
Thanks Peter. Imake still do send out emails of this type, perhaps check that your email is still registered? They also have an official video showing how to use this. Mine just goes into much more detail and gives my opinion :)
How do you ensure you don't overfill your keg when you do a closed transfer? I usually have too much beer for the keg in the fermenter. I use corny kegs
Hi there mate, just wondering what amount of pressure is inside your keg before you start the transfer? And do you open the pressure relief valve on the keg as you are filling it? Many thanks, appreciate your channel.
Hi David, firstly thanks for all your insightful videos on Grainfather & other brand enquipment- it's been central to me almost biting the bullet & making a purchase! One (more) quick question on this video if I may- when using the racking pipe, how do you know exactly how deep to go before hitting the yeast/trub layer at the bottom and sucking-up sediment? Same when draining or transferring from the bottom- how can you be sure the yeast is below the draining pipe attached to the tap assembly? (I guess you drain some yeast off first as I know GF advise, but then do you 'waste' a volume of beer between the top of the yeast and the drain level of the pipe?) Thanks in advance!
Hi, I do not have the opportunity to measure this right now because my conical is out on loan to someone else. However, there is an exta pipe that can be purchased separately "Conical Fermenter Dual Valve Liquid Inlet 160 mm (6.3")" this provides more height and is suggested for use with very large dry hopping. I have not used it personally because I have had no issues with the standard one.
Is the fine control of needle valve necessary to keep psi low? I just purchased this fermenter (thank you for all the thoughtful reviews!) and was thinking a using a tri-clamp with gas ball lock instead of the rubber bung. I could use this to connect an airlock or blow-off and then avoid opening the top when hooking up a CO2 tank for transfer.
As long as you regulate the pressure then all good. Glad you found the reviews useful. This is for the companies best product to date, the fermenter that is :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew that's a strange comment in that you showed that the supplied hose didn't fit your regulator. There are no connectors in the box or clamps even if you are lucky enough that the supplied hose will fit your regulator. Chances are slim to none.
Thanks as always David. A very useful insight and it looks like a nice bit of kit. Out of interest, have you heard anything from the GF guys as to when the glycol chiller unit will be released or have I missed it??
Thanks. In regards to the Glycol I have not had any updates as yet. Hopefully it is going to be released in all markets early next year , fingers crossed! Have you considered the cooling pump kit?
David Heath Thanks David. Yes, have purchased the cooling kit as they offered it with a 50% discount so was a no-brainer. Haven’t had the need to use it yet as it’s been so cold anyway! Really keen to try some pilsner styles and to really be able to control the cooling and lagering phases so am looking forward to its release (and the usual dent in the wallet!!).
The cooling pump kit is great for not so hot climates, if you are home and can maintain it. It can also be put in a fridge for maintenance free operation.
Just picked up a GF w/ the conical fermenter and this piece of kit. Didn’t realize I’d need a separate large supply of CO2. As this is my first true AG brew maybe I’ll tackle pressure transfer to a keg on another batch. Do you have any recommendations on making the leap from bottles to kegging (Ie choosing the right equipment/setup for your needs intentions)? I’m a bit overwhelmed atm 😅
Hi Aidan, you can use Sodastream co2 via an adapter, which keeps things cheaper. I would highly recommend the jump from bottles to kegs. Much easier and more satisfying for sure. I highly recommend a Kegland series X, this Kegerator can hold 4 kegs. I made a guide to set up and showed the different options in these two videos:- ua-cam.com/video/VoAzVvbRoOk/v-deo.html
in order to do a closed transfer from the beer outlet on the dual valve tap, what solution did you use to reduce down from the 13mm beer outlet to a standard beer line? (8mm; to fit an mfl and corni ball-lock fitting) I was hoping for something like a duotight reducer, but i could not find anything. Thanks for any info!
Thanks. If using this with bottles I woukd suggest the addition of a bottling wand on the hose out. This ensures filling from the bottom of the bottle and control. Its a cheap part to add in. Here is an example :- www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01MEGKYS2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1513855020&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=beer+wand&dpPl=1&dpID=31kR6ic1TrL&ref=plSrch
Hi David. Would it be suitable to transfer using nitrogen rather than co2? The reason I ask is that I am out of co2 and may not get a refill for another week or two. Fermentation is just about complete.. I’m also not in any rush to drink this batch and happy to condition for weeks in the keg.
Hi David. I was thinking of installing this at the start of fermentation and using the connection connecting to a blow off setup for Co2 out. Then if you install a valve you could lock it off - swap the line setup for closed transfer (from the top) with C02 now travelling in - this was stop having to remove an airlock to then install this and maybe another slight decrease in oxygen exposure - do you see any issues ? I wasnt sure if there could be some junk that might end up blocking in the head piece?
Ive bought this kit and ive used it twice now, this time i set up a proper closed (very low pressure) transfer, (by way of jury rigging extra hoses/ valve heads up) but i think that your idea scott is definitely the way to go to prevent any little bit of o2 getting in at the removing the stopper stage. However, i still dont see this transfer system to be of any real use other than avoiding having to lift it full of beer for gravity transfer. I also happen to have a bunch of gas fittings for free at my disposal so i wouldve thought that if you are spending 30 bucks or whatever on extra fittings to get a fully closed system then you might want to consider if the benefit is actually worth it seeing as the tank isnt designed for proper pressure brewing and the benefits that come with that....although if one looked around hard enough im sure you could find a drum lid ring that would sufficiently secure the lid enough to increase the pressure...to what psi i dont know, and for the price of the fermenter and the cool little valves, theres no way im going to try and find out...lol ...
Hi Darryl, I think for many the draw is ready fermented beer and if bottling no yeast at the bottom. The GF conical in its current config is not suitable. It could however be made suitable with an after market kit securing the lid I should think. Personally if I wanted to ferment under pressure I would adapt a keg for the job rather than take any risks or buy something specific. Cheaper and fit for purpose and multi use :)
Hi David, Do you know if this can be used in combination with a Blichmann beergun? Would you recommend this combination or do you think the extra CO2 purge is of limited added value to prevent oxidation?
Hmm I see no reason why not but I do not have one to try it with in Norway sadly. C02 purging is very worthwhile for kegs, less of a worry for bottles but still relevant.
Did you manage to turn the gauge 90 degrees as is shown on the official photos of this kit? out of the box it's position makes it difficult to fit the clamp. i want to turn the gauge so it is horizontal, but i fear to damage it as it seems to be very tightly fit..
Please explain when i hock this up to the Fermenter. Can i have it on from start so i replace the fermentation tube in plastic? If i need to remove the fermentation tube from the fermenter and replace the fermentation tube with the pressure transfer kit after fermentation are done will i not expose the beer with oxygen? and from what i know that is a bad thing. but i am new to brewing so please explain if you have the time.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok If i just transfer like regular with a hose that go down to my keg the beer will get in contact with oxygen. Is that bad for the beer? I have heard that you should have a close transfer. What Will happen to the beer if it get in contact with oxygen?
Hi. About to use this kit for the first time and im wondering what would be preferable. Racking tube or sampling valve transfer? Dump all trub/yeast before transfer if this isn´t previously done due to secondary fermantation in some recipies? Will fill a few bottles and then closed transfer to a keg. How much loss is there in the cone if transfering via sampling valve?
Hi Dag, The way this product is intended to be used is the top opening is for yeast dumping and collection. The bottle opening is for transfer. You for sure do not want to be using it any other way. Transfer from the bottom valve will be full of trub and yeast. The losses you will get will totally depend on how much trub and yeast you have left in the cone. This is all below the sediment line and not the sort of liquid you want in your keg or bottles.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you, i meant should i dump trub first and then transfer from the top using the included rackingrod or should i transfer from the bottom "bottle opening" and accept the loss left in the cone? Or should i just leave the trub and do the bottom "bottle opening" transfer? uncertain how the two methods would affect the clarity of the beer. The batch is your Juicy ipa recipe so wont be doing a lenghty secondary fermentation. If i did i would dump the trub when going into secondary.
Hi Dag, I usually do a couple of very quick short dumps (this will remove trub and dead yeast) during early fermentation...wait 24hours before do the first one. Then I do the transfer from the bottom tap and then I dump the fresh yeast for reculturing.If you dump the trub first then you will find you get more beer loss and it will be the good stuff!
Yes :) There are actually 2 options, both of which I have covered:- Glycol Chiller ua-cam.com/video/5C1awkeJGdU/v-deo.html Cooling Pump Kit ua-cam.com/video/nFK1yw2rvuw/v-deo.html
If I put the solid cap on kit and set pressure to say around 1psi would that be a safe way to cold crash and eliminate suck back from an airlock?? Safe being the key word. Lol.
Hi again, I’m such a pain i know! David what size john guest fitting is this you’re using? I’m almost certain that the supplied tubing wont fit my regulator fitting as i have a john guest 3/8 fitting on mine. Of course, I appreciate all your kind help as always Many thanks James
Not at all James :) I've had 1001 questions my whole life :) Please ask anything you like :) In this case there are no markings and I cannot for the life of me remember the sizing but if you contact GF they will be able to advise on sizing.
David Heath Homebrew thank you, I might have figured it out tbh? It’s 8mm so going by google i it’s coming up as 5/16. So i purchased 5/16-3/8 inline John guest part, in the hope it’ll work ; ) fingers crossed
Do you leave the pressure transfer equipement on during fermentation, and is it possible to ferment under a little bit of pressure with this kit ? Or do you mount it after the fermentation with oxigen danger ?
This is not something that I have tried yet. Do keep in mind thought that the absolute maximum pressure is just 1.5 PSI due to the clamps that hold the lid. If a large tri clamp was developed for the lid then this would of course change matters greatly. Currently I just used this kit for transfer after fermentation.
David Heath it would be great if the gauge could let the pressure go during fermentation like an blow off system. So you can keep the 1.5 psi during fermentation. But i think it doesn’t work that way.....
@@DavidHeathHomebrew unless you fit from the start and take the orange hose to a bottle of steriliser and use and an airlock with the needle valve open and then you can reverse and add gas at the transfer stage.....I think ! but am happy to be corrected. Cheers David
Picked up this and my glycol chiller today. Got the conical 2 weeks ago. Ttomorrow I will brew my first NEIPA
Great set up. I hope you enjoy it.
Nice new bit of kit and how to video David , thanks Ivan
Sure is :)Glad you liked it Ivan, thanks for you feedback :)
Nice piece of kit! I really am convinced that this type of transfer is essential for hoppy beers. Cheers David! 🍻
Sure is, unless you drink them super fast that is!
David Heath have you been spying on me?? Lol 🍻
Haha, It was more of a personal reference :p
The largest issue is everyone I know gets a notification via youtube of which beers I have in stock!
David Heath lol!! Happy holidays David!!
Haha. Hope you and the family have a great Christmas Brian :)
you could install a valve between the lid and the airlock, so you could close the valve, remove the airlock and then install the pressure transfer kit, open the valve again and do the transfer. By this way no oxygen will have a opportunity to enter the system. That's the point of a close transfer!
An interesting idea for sure! Please suggest it directly :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Any update on this idea?
Did you suggest it directly?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Sorry, I'm from the Netherlands, what do you mean with did you suggest it directly? You mean to GF? Thanks in advance, love your video's!
Interesting David, thank you. Not one for me presently but at least am aware of it.
Hope Imake give you a good deal on the bits you review. At one time they made an effort and put knowledge of their new products out there ( I live in NZ by the way) by means of email bulletins, weekly even. These days.....zip. But for you here, or on FB.
Thanks Peter. Imake still do send out emails of this type, perhaps check that your email is still registered? They also have an official video showing how to use this. Mine just goes into much more detail and gives my opinion :)
Can still get into recipes so registration okay. Guess I'm not going to receive a Christmas card from them this year.....
Hmm perhaps try reregistering your email address for updates. Should fix it :)
Considering this. I want to get into the NEIPA game, and this looks like an essential thing to have.
yes, it will certainly make life easier, as would using a unitank type of fermenter.
Thanks David, informative video as usual.
Many thanks Anthony, much appreciated :)
great video... how would you add sugar for carbonation for bottles? would you use the capsules?
Thanks. The sugar capsules work or you can drop all trub and stir in bulk priming sugar.
How do you ensure you don't overfill your keg when you do a closed transfer? I usually have too much beer for the keg in the fermenter. I use corny kegs
I would recommend one of these, they work well and are very cheap:- ua-cam.com/video/OkmCl8c5tgk/v-deo.htmlsi=IKorThfhywx89NvD
Hi there mate, just wondering what amount of pressure is inside your keg before you start the transfer? And do you open the pressure relief valve on the keg as you are filling it? Many thanks, appreciate your channel.
It is some years since I used this product but from memory the pressure keg side is not important and there is no need to open the PRV.
Hi David, firstly thanks for all your insightful videos on Grainfather & other brand enquipment- it's been central to me almost biting the bullet & making a purchase! One (more) quick question on this video if I may- when using the racking pipe, how do you know exactly how deep to go before hitting the yeast/trub layer at the bottom and sucking-up sediment? Same when draining or transferring from the bottom- how can you be sure the yeast is below the draining pipe attached to the tap assembly? (I guess you drain some yeast off first as I know GF advise, but then do you 'waste' a volume of beer between the top of the yeast and the drain level of the pipe?)
Thanks in advance!
Hi, I do not have the opportunity to measure this right now because my conical is out on loan to someone else. However, there is an exta pipe that can be purchased separately "Conical Fermenter Dual Valve Liquid Inlet 160 mm (6.3")" this provides more height and is suggested for use with very large dry hopping. I have not used it personally because I have had no issues with the standard one.
Is the fine control of needle valve necessary to keep psi low? I just purchased this fermenter (thank you for all the thoughtful reviews!) and was thinking a using a tri-clamp with gas ball lock instead of the rubber bung. I could use this to connect an airlock or blow-off and then avoid opening the top when hooking up a CO2 tank for transfer.
As long as you regulate the pressure then all good. Glad you found the reviews useful. This is for the companies best product to date, the fermenter that is :)
Great video. What products should I buy to connect the kit to my co2 regulator
Thank you, You should find everything you need in the box.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew that's a strange comment in that you showed that the supplied hose didn't fit your regulator. There are no connectors in the box or clamps even if you are lucky enough that the supplied hose will fit your regulator. Chances are slim to none.
Chris, its quite some time since I reviewed this and I understood that the supporting connectors had improved.
Thanks as always David. A very useful insight and it looks like a nice bit of kit. Out of interest, have you heard anything from the GF guys as to when the glycol chiller unit will be released or have I missed it??
Thanks. In regards to the Glycol I have not had any updates as yet. Hopefully it is going to be released in all markets early next year , fingers crossed! Have you considered the cooling pump kit?
David Heath Thanks David. Yes, have purchased the cooling kit as they offered it with a 50% discount so was a no-brainer. Haven’t had the need to use it yet as it’s been so cold anyway! Really keen to try some pilsner styles and to really be able to control the cooling and lagering phases so am looking forward to its release (and the usual dent in the wallet!!).
The cooling pump kit is great for not so hot climates, if you are home and can maintain it. It can also be put in a fridge for maintenance free operation.
David Heath Thanks David.....good idea about the fridge. Almost worth picking up a cheap second hand one and running it through there in the garage.
Just picked up a GF w/ the conical fermenter and this piece of kit. Didn’t realize I’d need a separate large supply of CO2. As this is my first true AG brew maybe I’ll tackle pressure transfer to a keg on another batch. Do you have any recommendations on making the leap from bottles to kegging (Ie choosing the right equipment/setup for your needs intentions)? I’m a bit overwhelmed atm 😅
Hi Aidan, you can use Sodastream co2 via an adapter, which keeps things cheaper. I would highly recommend the jump from bottles to kegs. Much easier and more satisfying for sure. I highly recommend a Kegland series X, this Kegerator can hold 4 kegs. I made a guide to set up and showed the different options in these two videos:- ua-cam.com/video/VoAzVvbRoOk/v-deo.html
in order to do a closed transfer from the beer outlet on the dual valve tap, what solution did you use to reduce down from the 13mm beer outlet to a standard beer line? (8mm; to fit an mfl and corni ball-lock fitting)
I was hoping for something like a duotight reducer, but i could not find anything. Thanks for any info!
Yes, I used a reducer. I found it from the John Guest range.
Would your beer not foam up if you tried to do this with unpressurised bottles? Great vid.
Thanks. If using this with bottles I woukd suggest the addition of a bottling wand on the hose out. This ensures filling from the bottom of the bottle and control. Its a cheap part to add in. Here is an example :- www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01MEGKYS2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1513855020&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=beer+wand&dpPl=1&dpID=31kR6ic1TrL&ref=plSrch
Hi David. Would it be suitable to transfer using nitrogen rather than co2? The reason I ask is that I am out of co2 and may not get a refill for another week or two. Fermentation is just about complete.. I’m also not in any rush to drink this batch and happy to condition for weeks in the keg.
I am not sure, best to check with Grainfather on that one.
Hi David. I was thinking of installing this at the start of fermentation and using the connection connecting to a blow off setup for Co2 out. Then if you install a valve you could lock it off - swap the line setup for closed transfer (from the top) with C02 now travelling in - this was stop having to remove an airlock to then install this and maybe another slight decrease in oxygen exposure - do you see any issues ? I wasnt sure if there could be some junk that might end up blocking in the head piece?
Sounds fine to me Scott :)
Ive bought this kit and ive used it twice now, this time i set up a proper closed (very low pressure) transfer, (by way of jury rigging extra hoses/ valve heads up) but i think that your idea scott is definitely the way to go to prevent any little bit of o2 getting in at the removing the stopper stage.
However, i still dont see this transfer system to be of any real use other than avoiding having to lift it full of beer for gravity transfer. I also happen to have a bunch of gas fittings for free at my disposal so i wouldve thought that if you are spending 30 bucks or whatever on extra fittings to get a fully closed system then you might want to consider if the benefit is actually worth it seeing as the tank isnt designed for proper pressure brewing and the benefits that come with that....although if one looked around hard enough im sure you could find a drum lid ring that would sufficiently secure the lid enough to increase the pressure...to what psi i dont know, and for the price of the fermenter and the cool little valves, theres no way im going to try and find out...lol ...
Hi David. What are your thoughts on pressurized fermentation, and could the Grainfather conical be used for it?
Hi Darryl, I think for many the draw is ready fermented beer and if bottling no yeast at the bottom. The GF conical in its current config is not suitable. It could however be made suitable with an after market kit securing the lid I should think. Personally if I wanted to ferment under pressure I would adapt a keg for the job rather than take any risks or buy something specific. Cheaper and fit for purpose and multi use :)
Hi David, Do you know if this can be used in combination with a Blichmann beergun? Would you recommend this combination or do you think the extra CO2 purge is of limited added value to prevent oxidation?
Hmm I see no reason why not but I do not have one to try it with in Norway sadly. C02 purging is very worthwhile for kegs, less of a worry for bottles but still relevant.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David!!!
I just came on here to ask that very same question. Did you try it?
No, I have not sadly.
Did you manage to turn the gauge 90 degrees as is shown on the official photos of this kit? out of the box it's position makes it difficult to fit the clamp. i want to turn the gauge so it is horizontal, but i fear to damage it as it seems to be very tightly fit..
Hi Espen, its a long while since I used this in all honesty. You should go with what feels right I believe.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks. guess i will just keep as is then, even though it's a bit awkward with the clamp.
Yes, I would :)
Please explain when i hock this up to the Fermenter. Can i have it on from start so i replace the fermentation tube in plastic? If i need to remove the fermentation tube from the fermenter and replace the fermentation tube with the pressure transfer kit after fermentation are done will i not expose the beer with oxygen? and from what i know that is a bad thing. but i am new to brewing so please explain if you have the time.
You just add this before transfer. During it's process you will be replacing the oxygen with co2, so no concerns there :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok If i just transfer like regular with a hose that go down to my keg the beer will get in contact with oxygen. Is that bad for the beer? I have heard that you should have a close transfer. What Will happen to the beer if it get in contact with oxygen?
Just received my own kit. What John Guest fits the red co2 line? I need to make some solution with carbonation caps.
I’m guessing 5/16?
So a 3/8 - 5/16 John Guest would then fit my needs. My ebay carbonation caps fits into a 3/8.
I believe that is right, in all honesty I cannot remember the size that I used!
Hi. About to use this kit for the first time and im wondering what would be preferable. Racking tube or sampling valve transfer? Dump all trub/yeast before transfer if this isn´t previously done due to secondary fermantation in some recipies? Will fill a few bottles and then closed transfer to a keg. How much loss is there in the cone if transfering via sampling valve?
Hi Dag, The way this product is intended to be used is the top opening is for yeast dumping and collection. The bottle opening is for transfer. You for sure do not want to be using it any other way. Transfer from the bottom valve will be full of trub and yeast. The losses you will get will totally depend on how much trub and yeast you have left in the cone. This is all below the sediment line and not the sort of liquid you want in your keg or bottles.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you, i meant should i dump trub first and then transfer from the top using the included rackingrod or should i transfer from the bottom "bottle opening" and accept the loss left in the cone?
Or should i just leave the trub and do the bottom "bottle opening" transfer? uncertain how the two methods would affect the clarity of the beer.
The batch is your Juicy ipa recipe so wont be doing a lenghty secondary fermentation. If i did i would dump the trub when going into secondary.
Hi Dag, I usually do a couple of very quick short dumps (this will remove trub and dead yeast) during early fermentation...wait 24hours before do the first one. Then I do the transfer from the bottom tap and then I dump the fresh yeast for reculturing.If you dump the trub first then you will find you get more beer loss and it will be the good stuff!
Have I missed the one on the cooling unit?
Yes :) There are actually 2 options, both of which I have covered:- Glycol Chiller ua-cam.com/video/5C1awkeJGdU/v-deo.html Cooling Pump Kit ua-cam.com/video/nFK1yw2rvuw/v-deo.html
If I put the solid cap on kit and set pressure to say around 1psi would that be a safe way to cold crash and eliminate suck back from an airlock?? Safe being the key word. Lol.
Not really no. Best way is to use an S airlock or a Plaato valve for even more protection:- ua-cam.com/video/ngLLz3-a8PI/v-deo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew why would putting the fermenter under 1 psi and leaving it during cold crash not be safe?
This conversation is about suck back during cold crashing. Safety from this requires more to be sure as I see it.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ONE psi... how can ONE psi be a safety issue!?
We are talking about ”beer safety” (not my choice of words ) here in terms of suck back, not personal safety :)
How do you know when your Keg is full when you fill up via the Keg connectors?
This can be done on weight. Alternatively just brew to the amount needed by your keg, This is easier :)
Hi again, I’m such a pain i know! David what size john guest fitting is this you’re using? I’m almost certain that the supplied tubing wont fit my regulator fitting as i have a john guest 3/8 fitting on mine. Of course, I appreciate all your kind help as always
Many thanks
James
Not at all James :) I've had 1001 questions my whole life :) Please ask anything you like :) In this case there are no markings and I cannot for the life of me remember the sizing but if you contact GF they will be able to advise on sizing.
David Heath Homebrew thank you, I might have figured it out tbh? It’s 8mm so going by google i it’s coming up as 5/16. So i purchased 5/16-3/8 inline John guest part, in the hope it’ll work ; ) fingers crossed
Great, sounds right, I just cannot be sure. Fingers crossed :)
David Heath Homebrew thank you. Another brew day today (American amber ale) and I’ll be putting the PLAATO airlock to use along with the PLAATO valve.
Great, hope it went well :)
Do you leave the pressure transfer equipement on during fermentation, and is it possible to ferment under a little bit of pressure with this kit ? Or do you mount it after the fermentation with oxigen danger ?
This is not something that I have tried yet. Do keep in mind thought that the absolute maximum pressure is just 1.5 PSI due to the clamps that hold the lid. If a large tri clamp was developed for the lid then this would of course change matters greatly. Currently I just used this kit for transfer after fermentation.
David Heath it would be great if the gauge could let the pressure go during fermentation like an blow off system. So you can keep the 1.5 psi during fermentation. But i think it doesn’t work that way.....
Yes this is aimed at pressure transfer only.
Is good for bootling or only for Keg?
More for kegging really but it could be set up for bottling.
Hi David, have you tried using this kit to apply co2 when cold crashing so the resulting vacuum is filled with co2 instead of oxygen?
Great question. I would like to know the answer to that also
Sorry I must have missed this but no I actually have not.
Did you you find a solution to this major issue?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew So David what do you do for the thermal shrinkage issue when cold crashing?
I have been using this solution for years:- ua-cam.com/video/ngLLz3-a8PI/v-deo.html
So no oxygen is exposed with this method?
Sadly not. When you attatch it you need to open the system.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew unless you fit from the start and take the orange hose to a bottle of steriliser and use and an airlock with the needle valve open and then you can reverse and add gas at the transfer stage.....I think ! but am happy to be corrected. Cheers David
Either way its not a concern unless you actually add oxygen to the beer/wort physically.