Single Pole Switch Lighting Circuits - How to wire a light switch
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- How to wire a single pole light switch, in this video we look at how a single pole light switch works and the different ways to wire a light circuit. This is the most basic light circuit using just a single pole light switch.
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how much? and can afford also the program so that i can used it on my demonstration.
Hey question about this video please! The very last example shows neutral being terminated inside of the switch box. Why is that? Is that because you would splice into the hot wire so you have both neutral and hot there in the box?
@@jecertinaliga6907 bb
@@misternormL It's a new electrical code requirement to future-proof for smart switches in the wall. I talked more about it in another comment here.
Why is it that you prefer to put the line wire or incoming power on the bottom terminal of the switch? Its strange because most electricians ik who have a preference will say to put it on the top terminal. If you answer, I will definitely buy you a coffee.
I’m a first year electrician and you have really helped me strive in my development electrical career!! Thank you!!! Keep up the great videos
yo what kinda car is on your profile pic ITS NICE 🔥🔥
Know if x
2 years later just curious what level your at now ?
Same here, just started second year and realized I didn't know how to wire a switch!
Same here broski! I hope yours gone well so far!
Is there a reason why in the second illustration you are connecting the black and white wire together at the light instead of running both neutrals to the light and the black wires to the wire nut?
Thank you for you simple explanation with minimal introduction along with clear diagrams. Extremely well done!! You've earned a subscriber for sure.
I'm wiring my kids bedroom this coming week and this will help a ton
The third version of the switch wiring is often required in new installations in many jurisdictions as a neutral is required in all j boxes due to the increased prevalence of “smart” switches. Having this neutral is also nice should one want to add another light or receptacle to the circuit.
You finally allowed me to finish my diy lighting project in my garage that I've fumbled with for two years. Thank you very much!
I'm a Pole and I'm single. I usually don't switch lighting circuits.
The question is can you turn anything on?
Well you have to make contact first!
Womp womp
P
Here in the United States you can no longer wire light switches in this fashion in new construction, must be a 14/3 with a present neutral in the box. This was updated when the nfpa updated national code to 2024 standards.
2014 sorry**
Don't you mean 2020 nec standards?
Do you mean similar to the last example where you need a neutral in the box?
Good to know
In the first method, "switch first," hot, neutral, and ground are present in the switch box while using 14/2. This would meet code, then?
Excellent video. The diagrams make the concept crystal clear. Thank you.
THANK YOU Paul!!!! This video is exactly what I needed to wrap my head around this concept!
Hey say that there is a new wire with ground being connected from the light switch to the light but the original feed wire to the light switch, providing power, has no ground. Do you connect the new wire’s ground to the light switch directly then? Does it even matter where the ground wire goes, if the original cord feeding the light switch has no ground?
I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure in your 3rd example, the black wire in the 3 wire cable should hook to the black wire in the 2 wire cable, and the red should be the wire from the switch to the light. Red is 'secondary' power wire, so there may or may not be voltage, black is 'live' so if it doesn't have voltage, there 'might' be a problem. I donno if the code defines that specifically, at this point, it's just my opinion
Excellent instruction. I came across the second wiring setup today while trying to find a fault causing my light to flicker.
I was fairly sure I understood the proper wiring but fairly sure isn’t good enough when it comes to wiring.
Thanks to this video I am confident.
Did you find the cause of the flickering? I'm having the same issue with a bathroom light
I did. It was a loose connection in the light fixture - the wire nut was poorly installed.
I did not do the original installation.
Thank you for making videos like this ; - ; I'm in Electrical Trades during quarantine, and I know virtually nothing wiring wise because it's the first few weeks and we had to go home for two of them already. Has me on wiring methods but I barely understand what the wires do and have been shooting in the dark ; - ; Nice teacher, thinks I'm really smart but I'm a huge "monkey see monkey do"
Best of luck buddy, how you doing now
@@takingitright Well, I’m a girl so I didn’t quite get first pick 😅 I’m at Walmart makin $13 tho so it’s not all bad lol
Thank you. I pulled apart a bunch of wiring from an electrical box when I was adding an outlet. I didn't pay close enough attention to the original wiring and couldn't get anything to work. I used the second configuration for the switch and everything is good now. It felt so *WRONG* connecting the neutral to the hot.
Electrical apprentice here. Why do you land the black hot wire on the bottom of the switch?
It doesn't matter.
I always put the black hot on the bottom as a matter of habit. If I need to know which is the load line later - then I know.
Thank you!! First video I’ve seen about wiring a switch that explained the how of why a switch works. A light bulb finally went off in my head too!! You’re the best. I can now reword my switch and stop tripping the breaker!! My hero!
Solid video, but I found the animated title at the top distracting. 😵💫
Great video and information. The second method is not recommended since it leaves the hot wire exposed as neutral. This is a problem in the future of anyone not knowing what the previous homeowners did.
What do you mean "it leaves the hot wire exposed as neutral"?
I think anyone with some competency will notice when a black and white are together, they must BOTH be hot. If one is changing the wiring in the light box they will see a white and black wire nutted together. There is no way that would work, obviously, unless they were both "hot". Likewise, if you go into a light switch and you see two wires. One black, one wire, if someone doesn't understand that a switch requires 2 hot wires to break/make the connection, then they should hire an electrician right away. White and black DO not go together UNLESS they are both hot or both neutral, and there's very little reason to make a black/white both neutral, but there are plenty of reasons to hot/hot if the circuit comes to an end. It is just TOO much work to feed 14/3 - 12/3 through because that might not be what is on hand at the time, and it requires an extra nut. I don't know, I would hate to be doing a job and have to go all the way out of my way to bring in 14/3 just to feed some extra wire through, when it can be done the same way, with no extra wing nut or tape, and is self explanatory. I do mark them with electrical tape. Remember, this is a light switch. You are not going to be seeing white/black connected together at all, or if that was the case it wouldn't be an on/off switch it would be just an ON switch with power going TO the switch but not coming out.
@@jonburhan5478 What you're saying makes sense, yet it doesn't answer my question.
@@icevariable9600 He just meant that a neutral (white) wire has now been exposed as hot when someone opens up the switch or light fixture box, and removes the neutral (white) and potentially shocks themselves when they complete the circuit. It's not unusual to remove the neutral without cutting the power. If someone is messing with a switch or box with the power on and doesn't recognize the white and black on the same circuit, then they shouldn't be messing with electricity, unfortunately. I think his warning is a little strange because anyone getting shocked by this sort of reverse loop switch probably don't know enough about electrical work to even attempt a basic fixture change, so they are going to get hurt no matter what with ineptitude. Any one who knows electrical work will realize straight off the bat what's going on because this reverse switch method was extremely common in the 70s-90s and when we work on houses around that period we often see at least one switch that way.
@Raymond Ray There's nothing wrong with circuit #2 shown in the video. The reason it's now illegal is because of the pain of adding a neutral to the switch box if it's needed in the future.
@@jonburhan5478 Always turn off the power. It's sorta like looking both ways before crossing the street.
Hi,
I have a wiring question. I am working on a project where all my electrical components run on 5V. This requires an on / off switch that operates an AC to DC power supply. The power supply is a (5V 40A @ 200W) and plugs into the walls’ 110 outlet via a 10AWG grounded U.S. plug with bare wires that screw on to the power supply’s input terminals (+: white, -: black, and GROUND: green).
In order to turn on / off the flow of electricity to the power supply, can I use a standard household light switch? Do I split the “HOT” positive white wire in half and screw it to the two connection screws on the light switch to interrupt the flow of electricity? Does the black negative wire connect to the power supply directly? Additionally, do I plug the ground wire from the wall plug to the power supply’s ground terminal or the green ground screw on the light switch? Or does the ground wire coming from the wall plug connect to both the light switch green ground screw and the power supply’s ground input terminal? If this is not the proper approach of doing things, how would I go about wiring a simple on/off power switch that would safely operate the power supply on and off? Would you happen to have a video showing this? Please let me know as I am totally stumped on this one.
Thank you,
Ed
Excuse the following "manplanation": I just bought a gutted house from the city of Detroit and it's over 100 years old. Needless to say, there's a lot of work to do. I ran some lights (once DTE Energy decided to come turn on the power) just so I could see, but I didn't include any switches. I've popped a circuit trying to install a switch AFTER the light and power source. Your video is so straightforward and easy to understand and follow. Thank you so much for making the content you do. You've definitely saved me a lot of headache.
Why would you ever use a white neutral wire as a phase???
17AB24 In North America (residentially) we almost always use wire which has a black, white, and bare (and sometimes red) wires already joined together, like an extension cord. They are not run separately like in the video.
Wesley Van Pelt Agreed. I think in terms of separate lengths of Romex - one from the panel or to the light junction box, and a section of cable placed between the lamp and the switch - then what conductors need to get hooked up where.
You use the white wire so that you can use just one wire bundle when powering the light. If you do not do that then you will need to run another black wire to the light and the switch or do as he described and use a three wire and have the red as the power. Just as safe and it saves time and money. I also heard about the neutral wire but have not looked it up yet.
If power went to the light first and you added a switch. Like if the fixture had a pull chain and you now want a wall switch. The reason you would run it on the white wire is so if someone is testing the circuit wont mistake it as an ungrounded circuit conductor if referenced it to ground. It would read 110v (ungrounded circuit conductor) when referenced to ground. If it was the other way around, it would be mistaken as an ungrounded conductor and theoretically it would look like a hot and neutral in the box opposed to a hot and switch leg.
That's why you should use the 3rd method. You use the traveler's for the switch and have a neutral in the box. That would give you a hot neutral and switch leg.
You have to to identify the white wire too if used like that. It's all in the nec.
Gumba Sal
Correct
Also with the neutral in the switch it can be use for dimmer switch that required a neutral or other smart switches and for a branch circuit in the future. It’s a requirement in the CEC I’m not sure if it is in the NEC
In the second example I’m not sure of the point of the extra white line with tape acting as a hot, other than to differentiate from the black in general, but in that case why not just advise to use red or another black with red tape, I think that would be less confusing right?
Also in the 3rd example I also don’t understand leaving the extra white neutral line tied into the main neutral feed but then cap it off in the box, wouldn’t it be better to just eliminate that line, less space and one less route in the path? I’m assuming the video is showing what it would look like if it were romex and all the wires were already together, but still I don’t think the dead end neutral is necessary
I usually love the videos but this one just confused me a little. Will these setups work? Yes. But are they best practice? That I’m not sure of.
The second example uses a white neutral because most wiring is done with 14.2, which has black/white/ground in it. So it doesn't make sense to switch out for a red or another black because the white is already there
@@1231mrworldwide that makes sense, thanks for the explanation!
When I took the cover off my panel here at home there is a white line being used as a hot, going into my circuit breaker. When I asked about it to another professional ,that is when I learned it should’ve been marked with black tape or another indicator that it’s being used as a hot. He told me it was probably the only color they had left when doing some work at my house before I moved in lol
For the third example with the use of the red wire and capping off the neutral wire in the box: If I remember correctly, some areas require by code to have the neutral in the switch box, even if it is not being used. Also, if you plan to install a smart switch, a lot of them require the neutral wire to that they can be powered even when the light is off.
Do you know how much a 15amp 115v single pole light switch uses exactly?
Great video my friend, very useful, thank you very much for sharing, keep safe
what's the difference between "pole" and "way"? I see so many people say "single-pole" or "1-way" switch. I also get confused when some people say "2-way" switch is for controling 1 light via 1 switch. Also, when they say "3-way" switch is 1 light controlled by 2 switches at different locations. Why so many confused explanations? Are these confusiions related to how a country explains these? I usually look for English explanations, but still the asymmetrical explanations.
The 3rd way looks unnecessarily complicated. You didn't go over why you would choose one way over the other.
It's not complicated. It's exactly the same as the second way, except that the neutral wire that stops in the light box in the second example also goes down to the switch box, even if it's not being used yet. It may be needed later.
2:35 why not use black color wire for this connection (light fitting to top terminal of switch), and white for the next connection (bottom terminal of switch to wire cap)? This way you don't have to mark a white wire with black tape to indicate that it is hot.... I am amateur; this seems intuitive to me
I don't understand, I am ignorant on this , why not to run the same color black wire to switch???? Because you still go back on neutral to the light with the black wire, too confusing.
Many thanks with a question; In the second scenario where the lamp is first in the circuit; if I were to be running a series of lights on that circuit (ex: a series of 4 recessed lights in a room), would those three additional lights feed from the neutral and hot wires that are connected to the bulb in your example, or to the neutral attached to the bulb, and the hot that bypasses the bulb (connected to the white "hot" wire) traveling to the switch?
I don't understand the point of having the neutral wire terminate in the switch box. Neutral is already carrying current back to the circuit breaker without it.
Svarj baria
My existing single pole light switch has 3 wires. One going to the bottom screw, one to the top screw and the third (black) into the back of the switch. I need to test the wires but my question is what is the 3rd black wire going directly into the switch? It goes in where you have to use a flat head screwdriver to release it.
Just a quick question. In the instance of power being at the lamp, how does the electricity return bar in the panel while it's in the off position?
Why do you connect white wire to black in the fixture box. Why not keep it the same and not have to confuse people and put black tape on white wire to identify it?
Very good video. Question on the next version of wiring diagram, can you add outlet? Is that safe? Thank you
Question: In scenario 2, what would happen if you connected the two white wires together, and the two black wires to the light?
Do you have an example of when two lights are connected to the same switch, however, each lightbox also is powering outlets?
If your following the CEC, the second demo completley disreguard. 4-022(1).
HELP! Purchased a new house. Once I turn the light on and I lightly tap on my light switch the light flickers. Ground wired or not should the lights flicker? only does it when I tap on it.
You have a loose connection creating resistance. Hope you got it fixed and that your house never caught fire.
i don't get the second one. Why not connecting the hot wire directly to the switch?
depends on how the romex is run. If you are entering the room on one side, want the light in the center, and the switch on the other side of the room, you'd use less wire this way.
@@damiensees4232 How would it save wire? As i understand it, we just have to eliminate one ceiling nut, connect the hot wire directly to the switch and to be conform, change the (old) black, hot wire from switch to lamp to a white, neutral one. Cable length stays the same, but we'll use one nut less and have simpler cable colours. Is there something fundamental i am missing? :-(
@@samehedi Maybe I'm misunderstood your question. The black wire or white wire with the black tape on it mean the same thing. It's hot. The reason there is a break in the ceiling box and a wire nut on the line wire is because romex wire is a bundle of three wires and to physically wire that scenario you would need to cut the romex in the box. I personally would have connected black wires together when running the next wire to the switch like I believe you are suggesting, then use the white wire with tape to feed the electricity from the switch back to the light.
@@damiensees4232 @Poképartum Depression, thanks! I totally forgot about the wires not being separate cables. That was the fundamental issue. Thanks a lot for your comments! :-)
I think I have the second one going on, but I’m getting ghost voltage when the switch is off. What could be causing that?
The first example is the ONLY way it should be done in residential. Same for thermostats
Actually, I am a class 10 student who has not learnt much about circuits. Can someone assist me in answering this question? We all know that plastic is a poor conductor of electricity, but how can electrons flow when we switch on the switch?
The inside is metal, only the part you touch is plastic to protect you from the electricity flowing in the metal parts
The second option is now out of code according to the NEC
true
Shiiiiit. I just did that on this apartment i rewired. 🤦🏻♂️
Yup. Need to run 3 wire because the neutral needs to be available.
understand schematics for description power into first light switch at the end. But can't figure out with two lights. Same setup, same wires. Any help?
Wire lamps in parallel, not series
How can you determine, at the switch, in what order the switch appears in n relation to light and the box?
I have wired like this but my ceiling fan doesn’t turn on. Has power though
I want to run everything off 1 wall switch. So everything is shut off when I switch is shut off
Can option two, work also for a ceiling fan with a light??
Yes. The fan is generally wired directly to the incoming hot so that it's controlled by its pull chain only. The hot also goes to the switch and back and is wired to the light only so that the light can be switched from the wall.
not gonna lie Paul you sound like the guy from my headspace app 👀
so white + and black - or white - and black + you are missing the point
In the third example, it's better to use Black for sending power to the switch loop, and red for the switched hot after the switch.
I have a question. So I wired a ceiling fan just like the third version here. When I turn on the power the light and fan turn on but the switch does nothing to turn it off. It just stays on until I cut the power again. What am I doing wrong?? Lol
@@Air-buds You probably want to wire the fan's hot wire to the hot wire entering the box from the panel. It will also go out to the switch. Once it comes back from the switch, that wire can be connected to the "light" hot wire (which is often blue, but check the instructions). This wiring will cause the fan to be controlled only from the pull chain, and the light controlled from the switch.
Looks like a phun exercise with supplies accumulated at target
Can you do the same thing but for a 220 volt switch thank you
What is a hot wire, I’m an Aussie we just call them active neutral and earth, is hot active?
Yes
Hello, why in the last type does the neutral terminate in the switch box?
Good sir, you are the paragon of instruction excellence. Gratitude.
That perfect pic at 1:29 is all I needed
Thank you! Just wired the switch in my room by myself
One porch light two ceiling light and what do I need to use on the switches
Thanks for the video, I was going crazy trying to get the light switch to work
I had a pull switch in laundry room How can i change it to a push switch
Okay
correction...@4:07...the switch isn't "broken"...the circuit is "broken"........it should be said the switch is "open" rather than "broken"
The last circuit described
in this video allows a ceiling fan to operate whether the light is turned on or off.
My first encounter with this type of circuit came as quite a shock.
I would advise everyone to test any circuit before working on it to make sure it is actually off.
Electricity can be sneaky.
good vid. I would get rid of the shimmering from the words on top. distracting.
All our recent videos have this removed, this is just an old video
I have two existing light fixtures on my wall (sconces). I would like to add a NEW ceiling fan/light combo in the ceiling and get rid of the two wall mounted light fixtures. Problem is, the power from the breaker panel goes to the wall fixtures before going to the switch. What's the easiest way to determine exactly where the power is coming from, keep that circuit going to the switch and then removing the fixtures?
Your expertise and video made it happen!!!!!!
Took me 15 minutes !!!!
You are AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!
Found this quite helpful
In today's world, you ALWAYS want to run a neutral to the switchbox for smart switch power. My house was wired in 1967, and redone in 2008, but nobody added neutrals to any switchboxes, which I had to re-wire.
shit, oh no. Ooooo.as soon as he marked it with tape i got lost.
how do i check out the other videos with the different colours?
Thank you very much u help me alot🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤😂😂
Awesome video! It helps me understand the basic flow of electricity and how it works....You've provided clear and concise explanation. Thanks.
How would you wire a light be on when your garage door is open? I was looking at magnetic switches but none of them looked like they were rated for 110 vac.
Why does the bulb light up if it is off with two hot lines?
Now that was the simple explanation w diagram I needed!
I have a situation. I seem to have a configuration like your second one shown here, with the light being first in the circuit. But the light is also linked to a second light via a cable that work together simultaneously. Now I want to separate the second light with its own switch. How do I do it? In the first light box, there is 3 cables, but one of them has three wires; black, white and red! I have no idea where that comes from and what it's for!?! I would pretty much love you to tell me or make a video on how to power a second light according to the second configuration shown here. It's giving me a headache. A million thanks!
Symon Says TV Hello symon, you should first disconnect the black wire going to the switch, and run a new cable from the new switch location over to the light you intend on separating, connect the black wire in the new cable to the black wire you removed from the light, then connect the white wire from the cable to the black wire (or brass terminal) on the light. Then at your switch location connect both black and white wires to the switch (either wire to either terminal will still make the switch function properly)
Paul, we understand new NEC code says have a neutral in the switch box (for future use) even thought not used now? The first wiring method shown.
Thank you.
The first scenario provides a neutral in the switch box by default. That isn't what the Code change was designed to address. The Code change addresses the second scenario, where no neutral is sent to the switch box because the black and white wires are a _switch loop_ to control the light. The third scenario shows how it shall now be done, according to Code, with a neutral wire in the switch box even if it is not used at installation.
Do you have a video how to add more light fixture?
So when would I use one configuration over the other?
This video just destroyed my brain. I don't get it, can you show wires IN A CABLE? because I've got one cable coming from a BULB and one which gives 220v, they both go to a SWITCHBOX and then some magic should be happen IN THERE. Now you're explaining like i'd there's no cables and all 3 wires just stripped.. but it's not like this in modern world!
The wires shown running along next to each other are in the same run. They can be in the same cable or the same conduit.
Just one switch for that light? Hmmmm
How do you define whether the light is first or last in a circuit? Is it first in the circuit if it is the first thing the hot wire travels through and the last the neutral travels back through? Sorry I'm new to electricity.
any suggestions for adding a fixture and switch to the 2nd configuration? i think someone called it a "loop" below. they will be on the same breaker, but i need to add a fixture and change the single switch to a double. thanks so much!
Amazing tutorial. Is it fair to assume that as you're running the line, you can have an outlet on the same line as well?
If you have an unswitched hot, and a neutral and ground, then yes you can stick an outlet there.
Great question, and this 1st method he offered is which one I used, and my power source was stemming from an plug 🔌 outlet. Then at the j-box where I split my power to the light switch,… that’s where my neutrals were tied together as mentioned in this video. That may be your point in question perhaps.
Absolutely Brillant.. simple, clean.. thanks
Great explanation please do more explaining how to wire 240 volt 2 and 3 wires and why. Thank you.
240V circuits are just like 120V circuits, except there are "two hots". Either hot and the neutral make 120 volts. But the two hots connected to something without the neutral make 240V. You only need the two hots for a 240V device, like a water heater. You need the two hots and the neutral for a 240V/120V device (it uses both voltages), like a clothes dryer or an electric range.
i don even understand a single thing in this video
You understand electricity is cool, so you're good.
This is the most helpful tips I’ve come across online. Be careful when searching for tips. There are a lot of idiotic suggestions out there.
Is it possible to connect a dimmer to version 2? I have V2, with 3 wires, which ends up controlling 2 sets of bulbs. I'm guessing, two wires should be live and one neutral. Can I split the neutral to connect it to individual controllers of a 2-gang, 2-way dimmer?
yes, you can. Just make sure that the same gauge wire is used. 20amp use 12 gauge, 15amp uses 14guage.
I'm going around the house ensuring every room has a GFCI at the first outlet bringing electricity into the room since my house has no grounding and ran into a situation in which my GCFI would trip. Solved that, then my breaker would trip. Then came to this video rearranged the wiring according to this one of these setups and voila!!! Fixed! Thanks a lot for your videos!!
This video is exactly what I have been looking for. Excellent presentation. I felt like a middle school student who understood everything. haha.
Usimg your second example when the feed starts at the light, If I wanted to have more than one light on the circuit what wires would I run to the next light?
I am a UA-cam certified master electrician now! Thanks!
Ha ha ha
No you're not. The second example is no longer up to code!
@@jovetj What are you talking about? Recent code states YOU have to clearly mark the white wire.
@@jonburhan5478 You now have to run a neutral to the switch box, even if it's not currenetly used. Three-conductor cable is needed. The switch loop is carried on the black and red wires.
@@jovetj I haven't had any inspections failed here and I do lots of reverse switch loops with white/black, and mark my whites with black electrical tape. When did this change take place? I would think the guys checking my work would flag it if it was a problem.
But under what conditions does we use wiring method 1 over method 2 ? Or method 2 over method 3? Which is preferred under a given condition?
I have an single pole switch and have it wired exactly the way you have shown in the first case (power to switch first). When I turn power back on and use a contactless current detector, it shows power correctly turning on and off at light with switch...but the light won't turn on. Any ideas why this might be? Using a brand new keyless lamp holder and bulb
Clearest and most instructional video tutorial yet among YT posts.
Can't I run a separate neutral for the whole circuit withough having it going threw the boxes? Having trouble with too many wires in small sapces.
Thank you... very clear and understandable
I have a question: In the 3rd example is the terminated neutral there to add a receptacle if the light is first in the circuit?