Rocket Stove Water Heater (First Attempt)
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- My first try at heating up water with a rocket stove. It raised the temperature of 5 gallons of water 60.5 degrees Fahrenheit / 15.8 degrees Celsius in an hour and a half.
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Бобик, ты балбес! Столько металла и такой низкий КПД - печка греет воздух целый час. Если ведро поставить сверху оно скипит за 10 мин.
Сам ты балбес. Эт ж не для ведра? Эт радиатор потом вместо ведра и в палатку зимой.
Tuger Tuger ну ты ""молодец"" только радиатор осталось с собой таскать . И че дальше ? Потухла печь и ты примерз к радиатору ? Нормально так то .
@@tugertuger5915 посмотри у миня теплообменник. Вес 2кг + баллон 2кг 5 литровый. На одном балоне 5л почти сутки работает. Теплосъем около 3 кВт. А главное: можно спокойно выспаться в палатке неподкидывая каждые полчаса щепки в печку.
Если уж ты хочеш с этой системы тепло снять сделай хотябы типо контура вокруг своей печки а проще всего нержавеющей гофорой её обмотай и варить ничего ненужно. А так как у тебя сделано то лучше ту железку которой ты грееш воду вообще выкинуть, поставить оцинкованое ведро сверху так же с двумя отводами и получиш куда лучший теплосъем.
@@vladimirignatov1465 где видео? Про санки?
Это когда делать нечего, люди и маяться.
Fine experiment on the use of surplus heat . You can use the rocket stove to cook, pre heat metal like a cast iron part for welding, heat and bend wood for furniture, straighten bamboo for arrows, pottery heat treating, drying, heating air, smoking meat, etc. All fun and all smart.
The use of a rechargeable battery pump or hand crank pump with thin tubing, radiator fluid, and a fridge radiator closed circuit could heat the water and leave it clean for bathing, washing hands, washing clothes, etc. The suggestions of using aluminum instead of steel is a good one to avoid rust. Great work!
I agree with starpuss. I do an annulus heater - fire inside and water jacket outside. Total annulus length/height 1.5 to 2.0 metres, inlet at bottom, outlet on top.
Heat transfer is all about exposed area, and all the hot gases warmer than 120 °C, still has potential to heat the water. The longer "chimney" will also give you a lekker strong turbulent draft, required for good heat transfer.
Keep goin mate, you're on the right track!!!
Love utube. Some one comes up with an idea and a think tank of comments makes it better.
GODSPEED ,
a stainless tubing coil in the exhaust stake is the way to go.... I did a barrel build and used it to make steam in a juaccuzi build and heat the water as well. That one I put 100 ft of copper coiled to stove top and packed it with sand for maximum heat transfer. What you've done is a great project and thank you for sharing. They rockets really fly when they are air balance tuned. The coils can be wound on a pipe threading machine and 50 ft of tubing can be only a few inches and effective surface conduction going on to transfer the heart.
Good test.. I am sure you learned some things.. Some suggestions.. I think maybe you were stirring the water because you saw something was not right, and stirring the water actually made the thermometer different.. You were correct.. Here is why and what you can do on test #2 to change that.. Your Cold water port is fine.. Bottom of Tank = good.. Hot water inlet to the tank from the rocket stove should not be way up top.. Reason: Heat Rises.. Hot water goes up.. But, you put hot water already up too high, and it only rises.. Very little activity at the top. Only as more hot water enters the tank, and all hot water now at the same temperature will it be the same on top.. Your Hot water from the rocket stove should be just a couple of inches above the cold water.. Hot water into the bucket will rise and heat the rest of the water as it rises.. The temperature difference will make the water move to the stove faster and heat quicker.. More water moving inside of the bucket will compound the effect..
Heating the water faster at the stove..
Looks like you are using 3" square maybe 3/16" Thick tube for the riser... If you made the water heater jacket out of 3" Square tube (Thinner wall), and then 4" square tube around that, and seal both ends, you would get much more heat out of the stove.. Thin wall would be fine, because you are taking much of the heat away from the thin wall and putting it in the water,, cooling the thin wall and putting it into the water on "all 4 sides" from direct flame contact, vs heat through two thick walls of metal that are being cooled by the outside temperatures.. Only one thing would be better, is to somehow insulate the water jacket 4" outside tubing, but, will not have a huge effect.. More effect could be realized, if you put a pot on the top to slow the heat passing and capture more heat in the riser.. It is one of the reasons why the Rocket Stove Mass Heaters have an insulated riser and is covered with a drum.. It is surely worth another test.. And, BTW.. You will see a world of difference in how your rocket stove acts when you move up to 6" diameter Square tube over the 3 and 4".. The larger you go, the better they work.. If you look at my channel, I did lots and lots of testing.. Much of it, I did not put on youtube, but, lots of tests I did.. I was looking for a "Long Burn" Cooking Stove.. The Longhorn Stove, (what I call it), was exactly what I was looking for, and finally designed.. I played with it and tried to break all the rules, until I found exactly what I wanted.. Keep up the work. You will get it.. I will be making almost what I described to you in the next couple of weeks on the top of a Waste Oil Burner.. Cheers!
From what I read about rocket stoves, The burn chamber chamber must be very hot to make it rocket and not smoke. I think you are cooling it off. Put a coil of copper tubing in the chimney and convect the heat out to storage.
It might get too hot for copper, steel might be a better choice.
@@donh4750 copper melting point is 200 below suggested max temperature that a rocket stove can get... this could be fixed by wrapping the copper tubing around the chimney rather than having it inside and then insulate with cement or similar so that it also takes advantage of geothermal heating. not as effective as exposing it to the fire directly but its the only way around it.
Yep. You have to insulate the entire combustion unit! Clean combustion happens best in really high temperatures, Rocket Stoves and Rocket Mass Heaters let the fire burn completely before using the heat. The shape allows proper flow and air mix (vortex makers can be made for better mixing) the insulation resists and reflects heat back I to the fire.
We see temperatures upwards of 1300C. (2500F) inside a well running rocket j-tube stove. There's PLENTY of useable heat afterwards, just figuring out the best way to transfer and store it.
@@SundogbuildersNet Can I ask what you mean by Rocket Stoves and Rocket Mass Heaters let the fire burn completely before using the heat? If you put a metal plate on top, wouldn't you need the fire to be burning underneath to heat it to then use it as a stove? If you insulated the sides, would it burn better? Thanks.
@@kmm2442
Yeah. For efficient fire, you want the heat in the combustion area to be highly concentrated. If you remove heat before combustion is finished, then you reduce the ability to burn clean.
In a well made Rocket Stove, the whole combustion area/J-tube is insulated and the fire is typically completely burned by the time it leaves the top of the riser.
Hey bro, you have to get the water pipes in with the fire for it to be effective. drill 10mm pipes through the side to side about 20 of them should do it then use channel on each side to manifold them together same diameter pipe to the bucket
now, try to reclaim the heat lost from the flame and it'll be even more efficient! good work!
The secret of efficient water heating is that the heating contact must be next to an isolated burning area. You need high temperature burning for efficiency to burn all smoot so isolating thermally a burning area is a must. It ensures the clean burning. The leaving hot gases then meet the exchanger and efficiently heats the water containing tubes.
Hmmm... heat exchanger should be IN the exhaust plume, not added to the outside. Also, add fins to both the houtside (to soak up more heat) and to the inside (to transmit the heat to the water) to improve the efficiency.
hout.
This guy is totally right. Build that heat exchanger out of the thinnest metal you can and put it right in the chimney.
Umm, no. This is a rocket stove, don't put anything into the heat riser. (What you're thinking is the chimney) that instead needs to be well insulated. Rocket stoves can achieve amazing combustion efficiency but only if you concentrate heat into the combustion process. You should only use the heat downstream from that process, after its finished.
So check it out, insulate the combustion unit (the entire "J" shape) build your heat exchanger on top of that, or nearby with a down-channel. Be aware that insulating the combustion unit properly will raise temperature inside as high as 2500F. This insures a clean burn but it will also burn out metals very quickly! If you plan to go in that direction, I'd switch to some kind of refractory. Brick and/or castable refractory is common.
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You have to put the exhanger in the midle of the fire, I've got one that delivers 6 to 10 KW. so it does 100litres to 50 degrees celcius in a hour or something
Good effort for your first crack it's better than I could have done 👍🏻
Just as copper and aluminum conduct electricity better than steel they also conduct heat better. If you were to wrap flexible copper pipe around your rocket stove and do the same test It will get hotter faster!
A low-pressure backflow shut off/forward flow open would help your system a lot. Some places it is called a one-way valve and other places a butterfly valve. So, you would need a low-pressure open-close valve.
Really neat, cook your food and get hot water for a wash at the same time.
As other people have said, it would work best with a water jacket around the whole stove and an insulated bucket, but it's still pretty neat!
Impressive how mere convection allowed for such a rise in temperature of the water bucket, even in snowy conditions! As has been said by others, you may find better heat conduction into the water by making a tube-in-tube design: basically encapsulating the stove's exhaust in the heat exchanger. Or maybe you could vent the exhaust gasses through a seconday exchanger? Nevertheless a great job, can't wait to see what's next!
And that is with an open topped plastic bucket. Anything metal and insulated would be spot on. I think putting the water on the fire would be the faster alternative but this is a great idea for sure!
One small correction to the description: a _temperature_ of 60.5 degrees Fahrenheit is the same as a _temperature_ of 15.8 degrees Celsius, yes, but a _change_ of 60.5 degrees Fahrenheit is a _change_ of 33.6 degrees Celsius. For example, going from a temperature of 40 degrees Fahrenheit to a temperature of 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit (a change of 60.5) is the same as going from a temperature of 4.4 degrees Celsius to a temperature of 38.0 degrees Celsius (a chance of 33.6). Absolute temperature, you have a +/-32 factor in the conversion because the two scales don't start at the same 0 point. But relative temperature, all that matters is the relative sizes of the two degrees, so all you need to do is multiply or divide by 5/9 as appropriate.
I'm thinking of doing this and running the hot water to an old bathroom radiator that I have. This would be perfect for heating a garden shed or garage or outbuilding or similar. Have the stove outside and run the pipes into the building. As long as you get to between 60 + 70 degrees it would work like a charm.
Btw, those extra metal plates won't diffuse the heat any more, they would actually insulate and so provide less heat. Good job though.
Heat transfer is all about temp difference, surface area, turbulence and time. Temp diff you got, thermo siphon is slow, so time you got. As mentioned surface area could be better, like surrounding the whole chimney with a larger pipe. But what you missed completely is something in the wet side to disrupt the laminar flow that builds when fluid flows in a smooth walled pipe. The water against the skin heats, which lowers the temp difference between water and hot side. Same way a wetsuit keeps a diver warm by trapping a layer of warm water against the skin. Weld beads all over the hot surface would cause the water to tumble along the surface exchanging the hot surface water with cooler water farther from the surface, increasing temp difference and efficiency...
putting some fins in the firebox to soak up the heat of the fire and then using some fins in the waterside to distribute that heat to the water will increase your efficiency. I have not calculated but i think the difference will be remarkable. The other option is to runthe water through metal tubes directly in the firebox/flu of the rocketstove, that to will make a big difference and will problably be easier to accomplish.
Good luck with your experiments.
Might have been better off using soft copper pipe and a round burn tube. Wrap the copper pipe around the burn tube, just be sure it always has water in it before burning or the copper tube might melt a bit. Two ways I'm aware of bending the copper tube without kinks, sand, or ice. If it's cold enough outside or you have a decent freezer, fill the copper tube with water but don't cap it and freeze it and bend while the ice is inside (might be risky still). Or, fill with sand and bend with the sand in it. There may be other ways.
Hi. The idea is very good. You should improve the heat exchanger to achieve greater efficiency. Greetings from Argentina.
With a little tweaking, this concept could work well as an on-demand hot water supply. Keep up the experimenting and interesting videos!
One idea for more efficient use of the heat. Use a section of square tubing that is large enough to fully encapsulate the stove pipe, and cap it top and bottom as you did before. That way the water is in direct contact with the stove pipe all the way around the stove pipe. Try to use a pipe that will give you about 1" all around.
A suggestion on improving heat transfer:
Create a tightly wrapped coil of copper piping (10 to 12mm or so) and have this INSIDE of the fire tube (maybe make the stove out of round piping also rather than square tube..?)
The smaller bore piping is important here, you may even have to put a pump on the cold water intake as the output of the coil will be close to boiling..
I'd really like to see this being done but I'm currently not in a great position to try it.. If anyone has done something similar before please leave a link here (or on my channel if links aren't allowed here). It would be greatly appreciated :)
Try this one... batchrocket.eu/en/applications
The copper would be destroyed in VERY short order.
@@stevenfeil7079 ...They literally use copper tubing in On demand water heaters...don't they?
@@jemjones5675 No, they use heavy duty steel water tanks that are heated from the outside by gas or inside with specially designed heating elements. The on demand is because the volume is so low it heats quickly.
@@stevenfeil7079 Well, what I'm getting at is that the heat exchangers for On-Demand water heaters are made out of copper, up on the inside, and also run copper pipe, although you are correct that they would be destroyed after awhile, I found out that it's because of the volatile nature of the wood gases. Although with a rocket mass stove I would think they burn too hot for the gas to react with the copper. Either way, he needs to increase the surface area of the heating element that's exposed to the heat, there's a shit ton of wasted energy go up out of the flue.
Great idea, just make an opening in the rocket stove so that this tube had direct contact with the fire and would use 1/2 "pipes, the material used is excellent but could be a little less thick Aluminum melts at 660 °, Very useful for bathing and washing dishes in the winter. Congratulations on the rocket thermosiphon.
Be very leery of aluminum; esp., in high heat uses... There are quite a few very reputable studies which have linked (for example) aluminum cookware with the rise in Alzheimer cases...
What a great way to keep my above ground pool open much further into the season or open earlier in the season. Now to think larger scale.
The concept of the rocket stove is to burn the wood gases at very hight temperatures in a combustion chamber. Including a device that will watercool the combustion chamber sort of defies the purpous. I think that you should place the water circuit above the combustion chamber rather on its side and isolate the chamber much better. By doing that you will not drop the temperature in the lower part of the combustion chamber and your wood gases will burn completely.
Interesting enough idea for me to weld up one with my everlast and try for myself. I can't wait to see your next attempt.
It would have boiled an hour ago if you put it in a metal bucket on top of the stove
I think the idea is to transport the hot water elsewhere without having to lug it. Seems like it would work better for a hot shower than anything else right now.
The experiment is the use of surplus heat.
To a man with a welder, everything needs a weld. :)
Jeff Pinter
You are 👌
Jeff Pinter
Very true. And if you have copper pipe coiled around stove burner with inlet and outlet in the bucket, it would take minutes to boil it up.
Maybe a lid on the bucket would speed it up . Loving this idea though , props sir
Cool video and interesting to see how the water heats up in increments. Did you use this invention for any other uses ?
Check out Kelly kettles. You are being very conservative on your estimations as to how much heat will transfer to the water. Maybe you want a slow predictable heat transfer? Anyway you will have to feed that particular rocket stove, and since your already camped out with it you can go a whole lot more aggressive. Weld a channel box all the way around it. Then the heat will only have the in stove wall to heat through. But a round pipe rolled from thin wall stainless with a 1/2" copper pipe coil around it will work much faster. Also insulate the bucket. But do not cover it or seal it or it could explode. Also do not try to pump it or make it travel very far from the stove and exchanger as again it might explode. Steam can lock and explode. Keep the loop short open and simple you can then move that water in and out of your reservoir bucket on another loop, but again do allow the water to get to hot on that loop. You could use antifreeze in a close loop system but you will need to pump it and use a pressure relief such as a radiator cap. If your wanting to heat a space like a small shed use a heater core and a pump and build a housings to accept a thermostat and pressure relief cap. Then test it and test it before you decide to install it where it could do more harm.
Nice build. sure there is room for improvement, but for a first try, great work and design...... thank you for sharing it with us all!!
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I would of put Heat exchanger right on the Exhaust of the stove, Or Make the Stove itself the HE , Another pipe on outside , water jacket , And Longer Exhaust .
And Cooper Pipes Around it also.
would have*
Just wrap the stove around with copper piping.
Yeah, designing the stove from the ground up with the concept of heating water would be the best setup.The furnace and heater chambers probably would be best to have separated by a thick copper wall, with thinner copper fins or pipes on the water side. That'll disperse the heat into the water easier as it moves by. (it's a heatsink after all)
You're losing a lot of heat from the bucket itself. Put a lid on it with a small hole in it and maybe wrap some sort of insulation around it
As it is, it keeps the stove functional for additional purposes while keeping nice warm water on hand, but I agree with the copper pipe comment. Build the stove round though, so you can wrap copper pipe around it without kinking it, or assemble it with a ton of elbows around a square stove, and you will have oodles of blazing hot water in a hurry.
'themodynamics' my friend - :
get a fairly thick copper pipe and run it right into the flame {at your desired height so as to not restrict the air flow too much} - copper has pretty good thremal transfer and i have noticed people are worried that it will melt ? it will just transfer the heat to the water more efficently maybe if you run it for a really long time with no water in it it might heat up a lot in that system. {but that's about it}
the more copper you have in direct flame {i.e curled} the more transfer - so really when you see individuals curl a pipe around the outside of the flu you should put it on the inside and down closer to the fire - good luck, better to make any seams or soldering outside the flame just in case of water failure {or better still just run one line with no seems or joins in the fires section.}
I'm wondering if you can come up with some sort of system like that for above ground pools.
Exhaust pipe shoud be insulated and the water reservoir should be on top, also a good idea is to put the pipe in pipe for the exhaust and let the water flow between pipes, then you have free top for cooking. I think this could be useful for heating some area without open fire
Main idea is the thicker is mettal the worse heat transfer. So your heavy metal plates disipate heat instead of transfer it to the water. Make it so water touch surface of the roketstove. Also insulate stove with minetal insulation that does not afraid high heat. this way you do not allow heat to disipate of the surface of rocketstove so it will transfer to water.
Isnt one of the main defining elements to a rocket stove insulation to focus the heat for a secondary burn? At the very least this would heat your water faster without question.
Like the idea a lot!!! Have you considered a rectangular funnel so as not to keep adding wood for an hour?
If you welded 3/4" cast iron pipe up one side , across the top, and down the other side, you would have almost 10 times the contact. Also, if you want any meaningful amount of water to be stored, you need to use a circulating pump .
I've picked up used ones on eBay for about $35 - $45 . Good luck !
Very interesting results thus far. Would love to see a mini-series or at least a sequel on this subject.
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Good idea. I think a copper coil may have worked a lil better for ur supply & return tho? Cldve coiled it inside a chamber in or near the fire. Just an idea my bro in law did for his pool. Diy pool heater.
Nice idea, had you considered using copper to build your heat exchanger?
A copper coil placed inside your stove is gonna give you much better results (possibly an easy build also)
Good first attempt, but most of the energy is going straight up the pipe underutilized.
Perhaps a heatexchanger square all sides, just bigger than your exhaust, centered and mounted an inch and a half to 3 inches above the exhaust using a jacket surrounding the heatexchanger exhausting the gases out the top.
Mount the water inlet horizontally into the bottom of the heatexchanger with the hose and outlet of the bucket even with each other, and the outlet at the top of the heatexchanger going to the upper inlet of the bucket. It should autosyphon.
You could try welding fins of metal in the heat exchanger part, to see if you can get more heat exchanged into the water. Of course the issue here is, if you take away too much heat, the rocket stove won't work.
Nice, but you are wasting a lot of heat, try to make te heat plate (the part where the water pass through) in the top of our furnance
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Maybe thermal paste between the water tube and furnace will make it quicker? 🤔 the two metal surfaces might be/get warped so thermal paste will make it conduct the heat over better in the places where the metals don't touch fully.
That is needed on computers. When few degree difference matters. It's heated with fire so area is more important. Fins inside the heater box for water is more important.
instead of mounting the section that heats the water on the outside of the rocket burner. weld cut holes in the rocket burner that will let you run the water pipes through the wall and place the water heating tank portion inside the burn chamber. this will be more efficient heat transfer. less fuel needed and the water will heat much faster.
Suggestion 1: put the heat exchanger inside the exhaust tube, flames will surround it and will be quicker.
Suggestion 2: use concentrical pipes, inner one for the exhaust flame, the external sealed with the inner it's a boiler by itself.
Nice , I'm digging the build amd the stick welding! I work with steel and got back to my roots burning sticks
ok so i'm going to chime in, the water heating chamber should actually be less volume. as in not as thick, also if the inner wall was actually the wall of the stove it would transfer heat better, other than that it looks pretty good
If you insulated that bucket and had a lid on it it would have heated up twice as fast!
Very good
Jesse Gunn
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but.. isn't the reason to the bucket become the heater ,,not to heat up water...?
Yep, heat loss from open top tank is completely dominated by evaporation. Many times greater per sq/in of area than heat lost from the sides of the tank.
Warmer 9
make a heat exchanger in the bucket and I would like to see how much timber you actually used.keep up the good work.
The inlet and outlet can be at the same hight on the bucket as the flow is controlled by the heat source . And I would put the burner through the middle of the water jacket like a huntsman's kettle larger surface area .
Brilliant idea hopfully you will succeed in your experiments .
How about applying steam engine boiler systems just a suggestion sir.
What is the outdoor temperature ? Looks like snow on the ground? Perhaps.. a little more water so it does not evaporate below the outlet.; insulate the bucket and hose; put a lid on it!
Might be interesting to know how much fuel is used vs an open fire.
Thanks for posting!
Brillaint. Please put the hx into the stove next time, not on the side. Great idea. If you could get this small enough it will be a great camping shower.
If you lower the bucket so that it is at the same height as the heat exchanger it will create better thermal movement of the water. But of the best wind a copper tube and put it in the fire
You should insulate the bucket and put a lid on it but I would
Also shorten the hoses and lower the bucket a little so the convection effect doesn't have to work so hard.
The whole time the water is traveling up that long hose it is cooling which in my little mind is going to slow down circulation and in turn slow down the rate at which it can heat the total volume of water?
You should put the water resovoir on top of a heat riser. Maybe a 5 gallon paint can style can would work. It might get a little too hot though...
Things like this are always so interesting
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Nice job!
I like this as a way of using the heat otherwise lost while cooking on a rocket stove.
Of course, insulating the bucket and water lines, as well as the rocket stove itself, would improve the efficiency a fair amount. I’m sure you knew that... would be cool to see though in a future design.
Keep up the good work!
I you place a small metal tube inside a big metal tube and fill the big one with water, seal it off and let the small one open for the fire, will it work better? Much more surface area and no need for thermal pase.
Good!! This is how koreans are heating their house since long time ago^__^
It's common bro
When long time ago?
In the 80's in Australia, had heavy duty stainless influe main pressure water heater plate double plate edge welded. 130mm x600mm. (5 1/2" x24").Put out 8kw. Could boil 250L easily. Maybe try it?..
Just put a larger diameter tube over the riser, seal the ends and put fittings on top/bottom. You need a direct coupling with as much surface area as possible... any boiling should help the water convect upwards and circulate
shouldnt those pipes be going top-bottom bottom-top, instead of top-top bottom-bottom that way you make the most of natty circ??
Wow so many negative responses to your trial test. I think it's a really good idea but like one guy said if you would of wrapped copper tubing around it the water would of heated up faster. But I really like what you did there keep up the good work.
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You should just use a copper pipe spiral inside the thing so that the fire directly heats it, the water boils and the steam does the job of pushing the water. Like in a regular water heater, and those heat the water much more in a matter of seconds. The idea is good but your efficiency is 0.01% because of a bad design. Most of your heat is escaping from above.
Think with coils!
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Hermeticity Testing, using organic equipment :) in 0:47
Advice: maybe with the water level one inch below the upper exhaust hole would be better, and level the deposit with this exhaust port of the exchanger? that would create a water column, forcing the liquid down the lower hole and improve the needed force to expel the heated liquid, and once heated it would start to flow naturally...just a thought :).
Oh, and using copper would have been a much better choice: this type of steel (1040 alloy think) is good for structure applications, not designed for heat transfer.
Good job dude!
Use round pipe for your stove and wrap copper tubing around it. More effective heat transfer.
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Very interesting science experiments. Keep it up bruv.
It would have been better if 2 different size square pipes were used one inside the other. 4" x 20" square pipe for the rocket stove and v a 6" x 12" square pipe for the water flow. This way the water will absorb heat from 4 sides of the rocket stove.
You're not getting any heat transfer. Build the whole rocket stove at a small angle (water heater element on the upper side, and the inner wall of the water part needs to be shared by the fire. That would have that water up to temp in 30 mins.
Cool, I would love to see how you Improve on this idea, what if you ran a coil of copper tube on the inside of the rocket stove and pumped water through that?
Try 10mm copper tube wound the entire heat part of the stove take both end and read the heat. Copper has more heat conductivity power ,try it
Design a cylinder filled gallium with a Cooper heat exchange coil suspended in the center to absorb and conduct heat then cycle water through it. The exhaust flute would get the most heat yes? 😊
Никакой эффективности, поставь он ведро сверху - через 15 минут закипело бы.
Вот и я так думаю. А в прочем, есть хорошая поговорка: - когда коту делать нехер он яйца лижет.
Я так и не понял а зачем это все?
@@saveliymirnyy допустим воду в бассейне подогреть
this is great, cook you food while warming up a large amount of water for clean up or other things.
dear friend, you should have placed the heat exchange stage, above the fireplace of the stove since that area is the one with the highest concentration of heat, to get more performance ... good work !!! regards!!!
Had a wood barrel hot tub in AK, had a snorkel wood stove in the water, had to mix it with a canoe paddle or the top would be too hot and the bottom would be freezing
Try making a new frame around the fire outlet it will increase the effect 100 times and water will boil in less than half an hour
Usando un tubo de cobre en forma de resorte y metiéndo lo dentro del tubo de la estufa .. el resultado sería mejor .. y fue muy buena idea agregarle un calentador de agua 😁👍
Shouldnt the bottom hose from the bucket go to the top inlet of the metal exchanger? Wouldn’t that allow for the water to be in contact with/moving past more hot metal for longer, and absorb more of the heat?
Use the water container (the metal box with the two holes) as one of the sides of the rocket stove. This means the fire will hit the water container directly. Hope I explained myself. Regards.
Y si cambio el cujo de plastico y pongo uno de metal y lo coloco sobre la llama no me ahorraré tiempo y dinero?
De seguro que hubiera obtenido más de 5 baldes de produccion
I want to make a rocket stove water heater with my everlast welder. I can't wait to see your next videos for improvements.
you need a pump on that. Also building a heat exchanger of some sort will capture more heat. You want the flames to have to go through the HE in order to get to the flue.
the point of this is to allow it to "thermal siphon". the rate of the water going through the pipe makes no difference, What matters in the ability for the heat to be transferred into the water
Not bad for a "proof of concept" build, a little fine tuning and you should be good to go. A small water heater tank would probably work well and some 2" copper pipe wrapped around the stove for a water jacket with a 4" layer of fiberglass batting wrapped around that should do the trick. I've seen a video on here where someone used concrete to coat their stove setup and that worked great.
Well, you could try making three more of those heat exchangers and basically plugging them in series to get more yield.
(you will probably need a pump by then though)
Awsome hack with the sushi sauce 👍👍 well played that Man
Instead of positioning the steel water tank on the side with the ports facing away, try turning it and have the ports go thru the fire top and bottom. I bet it'll even work better.
Your not a real welder but you're a real genius
САМОВАР ТУЛЬСКИЙ - ua-cam.com/video/6Vm87MkWHKE/v-deo.html
I was gonna try to build one, stick the rocket stove through a 50 gallon drum let the stove contact water directly. Or run the chimney flu through a drum. Other people stating burn chamber needs to be super hot to work
Do you think stainless would’ve been better so you don’t get rust ?
I think it would be better to use a much longer barrel for the water. Almost like a long pvc pipe. Doesn't the recycling of the water depend on temperature differential?