FIRST. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THE VIDEO. SECOND. You're the best when it comes to giving honest mechanical advice. The average bike shop will not say change the chain, they just offer you a new bike.
Replaced my first chainring last year. 30,000+ miles on the original maybe? It didn't really look bad at all but when I upgraded to 11sp etap - FD (kept original Red crank), was shifting like poop. Swapped the chainrings and no further drops or under shifts. Etap FD is finicky yall. Thanks for the videos George!
I've been running the same 105 cassette and Ultegra crankset on my bike for years now. I usually change chains when they go past 0.75%(it's 10 speed) The only time I ever wore out a cassette was on my 2nd road bike which was 6 speed IIRC. Didn't keep up with chains at all. Much happier now that I know my chains are t wearing out components. My Dad visited last summer with his road bike (he lives pretty far away) and doesn't keep up his chains. Gave his bike a once over, and he was way past the 0.75. Changed the chain first, and wound up having to change the cassette too. The only time I ever changed chainrings was on my mtb, which someone was throwing out and they probably didn't maintain it, since the bike was in pieces on the curb and I had to rebuild most of it. Wound up changing the whole crankset since the chainrings weren't removable (Shimano Altus crankset). It rides like a dream now, but doesn't get ridden as much as my road bike, gravel bike, and fixed gear. Btw, this video is solid advice.
Very nice and timely video. Guess I'm shopping for a new chainring. Would be great if you could show a follow up video after installing the new chainrings. A before/after type might be helpful.
Just ran across your channel and then liked & subscribed. I have a 2015 Emonda with full Dura Ace 9000. Recently had to replace chain and cassette. Still had shifting issues and then discovered Hollow Tech crank had delaminated. So purchased new crankset off EBay and new chainrings. Bike shifts like new again now ! Bike had about 40 K miles. This was an expensive lesson in doing better with maintenance.
Thank you for subscribing! I’m sorry to hear about the Crankset delam! I have been able to warranty those through Shimano even out of warranty period. 3 years for Dura-Ace but not set in stone. I’m glad you’re all fixed up now! Thanks again for watching and your subscription. Very much appreciate it.
Great tip, thank you. In 2017 I purchased my first (decent )bike since the ‘80’s, an Ultegra equipped Cannondale CAAD 12. Rode 6,500 miles and my chain started popping off under climbing load. Then realized I should probably put a new chain on. I discovered the old chain had grown a full extra length in slop (1”). I was still having problems 500 miles later, and then decided it’s really my cassette wearing, so that’s changed out now. I’m hoping my Cannondale spider chainrings are okay. I better inspect these next.
Sometimes it’s best just to replace everything at one time. It’s amazing how smooth everything will shift and how happy you will be. Thanks for watching!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad put a bike in small small, then put pressure on the pedals while turning the rear wheel backwards. Watch and listen to the chain clipping the previous cogs tooth. Then imagine doing that with 1000wattts
Last summer a friend told me his bike was crap and he needed to get a new one, I took it to the car wash and degreased it, put a new chain and lube it, he said the bike was like brand new. Cyclists today are like people with a car, they drive till it dies, same with bikes.
Chain, cassttte and rings use till worn point depends on indoor to road to dirt conditions. CX/off tarmac bike gets old parts, as parts get destroyed faster in cx conditions/trail/ bad weather use. Indoor/old road bike parts last much longer.
One measure of chainring wear that works for me is use a new roller (get it from new chain off cut links) put it into the new chainring in the correct seating position, take a phone photo and it records the width of the gap (to the rear) as well as the tooth profile. Compare every 8 months or so by repeating to track chainring wear ………..simples.
@@kevinfrost1579 it’s ok … you’re in a safe place 😊 I like to talk about the KISS method with my customers and viewers. If you watch my latest video I talk about it while installing the front Derailleur. Measuring the gap is 1mm -3mm, there is a sticker as a guide and you can use a micrometer but honestly just use your finger KISS Here you go! Follow up video very bad corrosion - step by step Front Derailleur install - thanks Jess! 3 of 3 ua-cam.com/video/PJYxO81-EDY/v-deo.html
I wish I had a service like yours here in Slovenia! I'm usually a DIY guy who researches everything to the nth degree, but since the kids came along, free time has become a rare treasure, especially with all the hobbies (and therefore maintenance) I’ve collected. So, I finally dropped my bike off for servicing, and the mechanic happily swapped out the rear cassette and chain. But still, under heavy load - like when I’m towing a trailer with one kid and carrying another in a seat - the chain still skips every now and then. Looks like the next step is to replace the chainrings too to keep things running smoothly and am surprised the guys didn't inspect the existing one then suggest replacement as the symptoms were explained to him. I have had a look at the chainring and there isn't as much difference as in your video nevertheless it's worn out and the only part that wasn't replaced. One tip that I didn’t see here (though most probably know it) is to avoid shifting under heavy load, especially when going uphill. Instead, try a light pedal stroke to let the chain fully engage the chainring before going full throttle. Saves the gear from a premature retirement!
Thanks for watching. I hope they get your bike sorted out. Yes ALWAYS soft pedal when shifting - doesn’t matter front or rear. Please consider subscribing
That's good to know about how much wear can be on the chain rings. I keep me chain lubed with Finish Line wet lube and wipe the excess from it. I run a KMC chain on an 11 speed Shimano GRX.
Hello Robert I think KMC chain offer longer wear than do Shimano chains. What has been your experience? Thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.
I do the wax melt in crock pot thing and rotate 5 chains. And I rotate the 5 chains between my 2 bikes. So basically, I'm rotating 5 chains and 2 cranks equally. I'm hoping that I never wear out any part of the drive trains. Based on your experience, I'd say I have a chance. Thanks for the video.
Time to update to belt drive/IGH. I've been slowly converting and we'll see how it turns out but so far the observations are very positive. I bend rings more than anything - I just can't help it with the ol' smashy smashy, breaking derailleurs and tensioner/idlers, I will miss losing two of my front gear rings but in all fairness it's only like 14% of the original range (3 front x 8 rear) I'm losing (Enviolo CVT) but I can dial it so I get better low end or higher end, depending on whether it's my road/gravel bike or my trail/park one, simply by swapping out single pulleys instead of dealing with multiple chain rings front/back.
@@oreocarlton3343 I did a short interview with him. I will release the video in the next few days. Please like and subscribe and hit notifications so you know when that video is posted
The method that I use is to take a spare piece of chain and insert the roller between the teeth. Note how much/little of the roller is engaged between the two teeth, compared to a new chain ring. In George's example, there was no point in bothering to check with a rollwe; you could see the big ring was used up without even checking.
I like and have used the cut off links of chain to show a customer the amount of slop between their chain and what a new chain is going to look/feel/shift like. Thank you for reminding me about this procedure that I use on questionable chainrings
Yeah, that makes sense. Just put a new chain, and I am getting slippage like your customer at the red light. MY old chain was very rusty but still good. That is likely why this new one is slipping and has not got worn in like the old one.
Thanks for watching! How did you find this video? Check your chainrings they may be worn and slipping under load from a light. Please consider subscribing
Here is how I maintain my chain: - Silca Wax ( pot ) In an extremely clean chain - Then I apply Silca bottle wax every 150 miles As long it does not rain, I do above up to 1K miles and then clean chain, re wax and repeat. If it rains then I fully clean the chain and repeat. I can easily get 8K+ miles from a single chain!
Check out Zero Friction Cycling to support the points George has made about changing chains. The info from that site is not opinion but long term testing of chain wear and efficiency when using hot paraffin wax as the lubricant. Thank you George for a top class explanation of drive line wear.
Thank You David! I have watched ZFC videos in the past. Since posting this video I was sent a video on measuring with a micrometers but I think that’s just too much work my trained eye is more than enough. Thanks for watching!
If somebody came up with a measuring tool, I think they'd sell very well. Until then, if you pull at the chain at the 3:00 position on the worn chainring vs the fresh chainring, wouldn't the range of slop be somewhat measurable/comparable?
@@WowRixter I'm always playing with worn 11 tooth cassette gears, some have matching chain groove diameters /arcs but the height of the teeth are different. The lack of height seems to make them slip. Would be nice to have a good checking tool/method. I'm 90% sure most wear comes from crosschaining. Try this on a bike stand, go small / small rings, then put pressure on the pedals and rotate the wheel backwards. You will see and hear the chain clunking as it clips the teeth of the cogs.
Bought my first MTB and I'm having issues with my gears. I guess the term is called ghost shifting. It lead me here, I think my front chain ring is causing this issue or possibly the rear derailleur hanger.
It is always the chain eating the cassette and the chainrings. Not the other way around. Because it is the chain that gets elongated and than eats the cassette/chainrings
Only test I can think of.. using an fully inflated balloon (Park Tool #BLN-001).. gently lower it on suspected chainring teeth- if balloon pops, replace chainring
Hey George, I've watched three of your worn chainring videos. I've learned something different each time and subbed. :) My bike runs Shimano Sora FC-3550 chainrings. I'm aware it's old tech and you don't see many replacements or photos online. I had a new set installed in 2015 on a road bike that I use mainly for commuting. I remember the shark fin my old ones had which someone else mentioned in the comments. Luckily it's not that bad this time. Looking at new photos, I find the outer ring teeth look like they are pointed whereas the inner ring teeth are square. Is that normal? Thanks in advance. :)
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad If I look at photos online for a new Shimano Sora FC-3550 outer chainring, the teeth look like they are pointed. Is that the default design? Whereas the teeth on a new inner chainring look square like in your video. Thanks.
@@hessajee different chainrings will have different design. I work on high end bikes and that’s what I showed in the video. Go with the Shimano photos for your specific drivetrain
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad that said WHO?, how much cost new anything(cassette , ring gear), time per tooth is 10 seconds so you can use calculator to find out how much time is needed to reshape 30/40/50/100 teeth, of course is faster to replace worn part with new one and you earn more money from customer, but if you wanna save money reshaping is right thing, and no problems with half-ass job because it is not, i have 20years experience in this, and you have 0 seconds and you claim it is half ass job👍
I mentioned this in the video (maybe I have done so many of these videos I don’t know which is which anymore) . But your chain may slip and you may drop your chain off the chainring and possibly lose control of the bike. It’s happened to me in the parking lot when test riding bikes. If the chainring is worn you should replace it. It can be used and not worn beyond specifications and be fine. Only one way to find out and that is to allow an experienced bike mechanic inspect it at your local bike shop. I can’t advise you since your bike is not in my work stand. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing.
I judge people based on the condition they keep their bicycles. This guy is an animal and I would never ride with him, he would probably get me killed.
FIRST. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE THE VIDEO.
SECOND. You're the best when it comes to giving honest mechanical advice. The average bike shop will not say change the chain, they just offer you a new bike.
You’re Welcome and thanks for watching Mario!
Another mechanic/owner here, and I have been sharing the same story with my customers for years. Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the kind words! Coming from another mechanic/owner I am humbled you find my content worthy of commending.
Thank you for watching Jackie!
Replaced my first chainring last year. 30,000+ miles on the original maybe? It didn't really look bad at all but when I upgraded to 11sp etap - FD (kept original Red crank), was shifting like poop. Swapped the chainrings and no further drops or under shifts. Etap FD is finicky yall. Thanks for the videos George!
When in doubt swap it out! That’s my motto and it keeps my customers happy.
I've been running the same 105 cassette and Ultegra crankset on my bike for years now. I usually change chains when they go past 0.75%(it's 10 speed) The only time I ever wore out a cassette was on my 2nd road bike which was 6 speed IIRC. Didn't keep up with chains at all. Much happier now that I know my chains are t wearing out components. My Dad visited last summer with his road bike (he lives pretty far away) and doesn't keep up his chains. Gave his bike a once over, and he was way past the 0.75. Changed the chain first, and wound up having to change the cassette too. The only time I ever changed chainrings was on my mtb, which someone was throwing out and they probably didn't maintain it, since the bike was in pieces on the curb and I had to rebuild most of it. Wound up changing the whole crankset since the chainrings weren't removable (Shimano Altus crankset). It rides like a dream now, but doesn't get ridden as much as my road bike, gravel bike, and fixed gear. Btw, this video is solid advice.
Thank you for all your personal references. It will be valuable to others. Thanks for Sharing
Very nice and timely video. Guess I'm shopping for a new chainring. Would be great if you could show a follow up video after installing the new chainrings. A before/after type might be helpful.
Great visual description. I'm going down to check mine now. I'm obsessive about changing my chains in time and keeping them waxed. So I'm hopeful.
Let us know what you find! Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing
Just ran across your channel and then liked & subscribed. I have a 2015 Emonda with full Dura Ace 9000. Recently had to replace chain and cassette. Still had shifting issues and then discovered Hollow Tech crank had delaminated. So purchased new crankset off EBay and new chainrings. Bike shifts like new again now ! Bike had about 40 K miles. This was an expensive lesson in doing better with maintenance.
Thank you for subscribing! I’m sorry to hear about the Crankset delam! I have been able to warranty those through Shimano even out of warranty period. 3 years for Dura-Ace but not set in stone.
I’m glad you’re all fixed up now! Thanks again for watching and your subscription. Very much appreciate it.
Great tip, thank you. In 2017 I purchased my first (decent )bike since the ‘80’s, an Ultegra equipped Cannondale CAAD 12. Rode 6,500 miles and my chain started popping off under climbing load. Then realized I should probably put a new chain on. I discovered the old chain had grown a full extra length in slop (1”). I was still having problems 500 miles later, and then decided it’s really my cassette wearing, so that’s changed out now. I’m hoping my Cannondale spider chainrings are okay. I better inspect these next.
Sometimes it’s best just to replace everything at one time. It’s amazing how smooth everything will shift and how happy you will be. Thanks for watching!
Crosschaining chews the teeth more than power. Same with shifting under power
Correct it does! It is one of the main reasons I am not a fan of 1X drive trains
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad put a bike in small small, then put pressure on the pedals while turning the rear wheel backwards.
Watch and listen to the chain clipping the previous cogs tooth. Then imagine doing that with 1000wattts
Last summer a friend told me his bike was crap and he needed to get a new one, I took it to the car wash and degreased it, put a new chain and lube it, he said the bike was like brand new. Cyclists today are like people with a car, they drive till it dies, same with bikes.
True statement! I see so much neglect on bikes it makes me cry 😭
Thanks for watching
Chain, cassttte and rings use till worn point depends on indoor to road to dirt conditions. CX/off tarmac bike gets old parts, as parts get destroyed faster in cx conditions/trail/ bad weather use. Indoor/old road bike parts last much longer.
One measure of chainring wear that works for me is use a new roller (get it from new chain off cut links) put it into the new chainring in the correct seating position, take a phone photo and it records the width of the gap (to the rear) as well as the tooth profile. Compare every 8 months or so by repeating to track chainring wear ………..simples.
Hello Kevin - sounds so techy lol! I just use my 👁️ works every time 😉
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Yep George complete nerd me ( I confess 😁)
@@kevinfrost1579 it’s ok … you’re in a safe place 😊
I like to talk about the KISS method with my customers and viewers. If you watch my latest video I talk about it while installing the front Derailleur. Measuring the gap is 1mm -3mm, there is a sticker as a guide and you can use a micrometer but honestly just use your finger KISS
Here you go!
Follow up video very bad corrosion - step by step Front Derailleur install - thanks Jess! 3 of 3
ua-cam.com/video/PJYxO81-EDY/v-deo.html
Thanks that was a very informative video and like you said you need to know why! before how do we fix
Glad it was helpful!i appreciate you watching my content!
I wish I had a service like yours here in Slovenia! I'm usually a DIY guy who researches everything to the nth degree, but since the kids came along, free time has become a rare treasure, especially with all the hobbies (and therefore maintenance) I’ve collected.
So, I finally dropped my bike off for servicing, and the mechanic happily swapped out the rear cassette and chain. But still, under heavy load - like when I’m towing a trailer with one kid and carrying another in a seat - the chain still skips every now and then. Looks like the next step is to replace the chainrings too to keep things running smoothly and am surprised the guys didn't inspect the existing one then suggest replacement as the symptoms were explained to him. I have had a look at the chainring and there isn't as much difference as in your video nevertheless it's worn out and the only part that wasn't replaced.
One tip that I didn’t see here (though most probably know it) is to avoid shifting under heavy load, especially when going uphill. Instead, try a light pedal stroke to let the chain fully engage the chainring before going full throttle. Saves the gear from a premature retirement!
Thanks for watching. I hope they get your bike sorted out. Yes ALWAYS soft pedal when shifting - doesn’t matter front or rear. Please consider subscribing
That's good to know about how much wear can be on the chain rings. I keep me chain lubed with Finish Line wet lube and wipe the excess from it. I run a KMC chain on an 11 speed Shimano GRX.
Hello Robert I think KMC chain offer longer wear than do Shimano chains. What has been your experience?
Thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.
@George Vargas So far so good. I've been told that those chains have a coating on them that makes them wear better.
@@robertkeefer1552 wonderful keep us posted!
Thanks awesome video. Learning something new today!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow. Must be one powerful rider!!! Wish I had his problems 😂
Super strong cyclist!
I do the wax melt in crock pot thing and rotate 5 chains. And I rotate the 5 chains between my 2 bikes. So basically, I'm rotating 5 chains and 2 cranks equally. I'm hoping that I never wear out any part of the drive trains. Based on your experience, I'd say I have a chance. Thanks for the video.
You’re Welcome ! Thanks for watching!
Time to update to belt drive/IGH.
I've been slowly converting and we'll see how it turns out but so far the observations are very positive.
I bend rings more than anything - I just can't help it with the ol' smashy smashy, breaking derailleurs and tensioner/idlers, I will miss losing two of my front gear rings but in all fairness it's only like 14% of the original range (3 front x 8 rear) I'm losing (Enviolo CVT) but I can dial it so I get better low end or higher end, depending on whether it's my road/gravel bike or my trail/park one, simply by swapping out single pulleys instead of dealing with multiple chain rings front/back.
I changed my chains regularly. Even when the bike shop says it’s fine! Good video!
That’s very smart preventative measure.
How often?
The guy in cuenca Ecuador pointed and said "Tiburon". My chain and 32T were shot.
Dientes de tiburon 😂
My knees hurt just thinking about that big of a chainring. My skinny legs will keep spinning the 95rpm. Kudos to him though, and thanks for the video.
Ha ha oh he spins at 95 rpm in his 53-11 combination that is why he wants a big chainring. You might have missed it but he is pro caliber cyclist.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad that is crazy, is the guy the gigachad himself?
@@oreocarlton3343 I did a short interview with him. I will release the video in the next few days. Please like and subscribe and hit notifications so you know when that video is posted
The method that I use is to take a spare piece of chain and insert the roller between the teeth. Note how much/little of the roller is engaged between the two teeth, compared to a new chain ring. In George's example, there was no point in bothering to check with a rollwe; you could see the big ring was used up without even checking.
I like and have used the cut off links of chain to show a customer the amount of slop between their chain and what a new chain is going to look/feel/shift like.
Thank you for reminding me about this procedure that I use on questionable chainrings
Yeah, that makes sense. Just put a new chain, and I am getting slippage like your customer at the red light. MY old chain was very rusty but still good. That is likely why this new one is slipping and has not got worn in like the old one.
Thanks for watching! How did you find this video? Check your chainrings they may be worn and slipping under load from a light. Please consider subscribing
Never had to change a chain ring. I ride 25000km per year. I think mine did just 70000km
That’s huge Km’s! Thank You for confirming my theory. If you replace chains often you won’t have to change chainrings.
Here is how I maintain my chain:
- Silca Wax ( pot ) In an extremely clean chain
- Then I apply Silca bottle wax every 150 miles
As long it does not rain, I do above up to 1K miles and then clean chain, re wax and repeat.
If it rains then I fully clean the chain and repeat.
I can easily get 8K+ miles from a single chain!
Getting that much mileage is very appealing to me I’m going the immersive wax method.
Thanks for watching!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Wax is the best.
Just do full wax and then maintain with bottle wax for which ever amount of miles you choose.
Check out Zero Friction Cycling to support the points George has made about changing chains. The info from that site is not opinion but long term testing of chain wear and efficiency when using hot paraffin wax as the lubricant. Thank you George for a top class explanation of drive line wear.
Thank You David! I have watched ZFC videos in the past. Since posting this video I was sent a video on measuring with a micrometers but I think that’s just too much work my trained eye is more than enough.
Thanks for watching!
If somebody came up with a measuring tool, I think they'd sell very well. Until then, if you pull at the chain at the 3:00 position on the worn chainring vs the fresh chainring, wouldn't the range of slop be somewhat measurable/comparable?
But the chain also wears. Its impossible to gauge
@@janeblogs324 That's a good point, hadn't considered that
@@WowRixter I'm always playing with worn 11 tooth cassette gears, some have matching chain groove diameters /arcs but the height of the teeth are different. The lack of height seems to make them slip.
Would be nice to have a good checking tool/method.
I'm 90% sure most wear comes from crosschaining. Try this on a bike stand, go small / small rings, then put pressure on the pedals and rotate the wheel backwards.
You will see and hear the chain clunking as it clips the teeth of the cogs.
@@janeblogs324 Ill have to give that a try
Yeah. When you do winter driving in a climate where there are actual inters you will have to change your chainrings on the cranks no matter what.
Probably so but this guy no likey winter riding 😂 😊😊
I'll take that 25t cog if nobody wants it😁 Dude definitely got his money out of that chainring.
Ha ha the 25T hasn’t been used it’s all yours 😂
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Seriously? Figured he may use it if he sizes up to 42 inner ring. If you took it off, I can use a spare
@@SkagitLooper 😂
@@SkagitLooper wait until you see the interview I did with him. His gear combination for climbing will surprise you. Well it surprised me anyway
Also.. that was a really good video.. never knew what exactly to look for with worn chainrings. Will a worn cassette have pointy teeth as well?
Thank you! Yes the teeth on a cassette will get just as pointy as the chainring in this video.
Bought my first MTB and I'm having issues with my gears. I guess the term is called ghost shifting. It lead me here, I think my front chain ring is causing this issue or possibly the rear derailleur hanger.
It could be the chainrings, the chain or the cassette. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
that bike owner had money to buy it but he is too skimpy to buy new chain before makes more damage on gears
Is Shimano's 16 teeth only for road cranksets, their GRX 810 crankset is a 48/31?
Yes for most of the modern road drivetrains. This is predominantly a road channel. Thank You for watching
WOW that is one of the most smoked chainrings I’ve ever seen . He must’ve really let his chain go!
Shark teeth. They eat chains and cassettes for breakfast.
I like that description bro.
Hehe
It is always the chain eating the cassette and the chainrings. Not the other way around. Because it is the chain that gets elongated and than eats the cassette/chainrings
If you ride 10,000 miles a year, then you should be replacing your chain about three times.
Yes chains get replaced often 3-4 per bike. I own 9 bikes but ride 4-5 of them more often than the others.
Great video thanks.
You’re Welcome please consider subscribing
The owner of the bike must be Eddie Mercx. Lol
Is that a 3-pawl hub on a carbon wheel set?
I can let you know tomorrow but it’s a DT Swiss wheelset
Who rides that bike, the hulk?
Is this gentelman Caleb Ewan?
Ha ha that’s funny!
Only test I can think of.. using an fully inflated balloon (Park Tool #BLN-001).. gently lower it on suspected chainring teeth- if balloon pops, replace chainring
Ha ha I love this 😂
Hey George, I've watched three of your worn chainring videos. I've learned something different each time and subbed. :)
My bike runs Shimano Sora FC-3550 chainrings. I'm aware it's old tech and you don't see many replacements or photos online. I had a new set installed in 2015 on a road bike that I use mainly for commuting. I remember the shark fin my old ones had which someone else mentioned in the comments. Luckily it's not that bad this time.
Looking at new photos, I find the outer ring teeth look like they are pointed whereas the inner ring teeth are square. Is that normal?
Thanks in advance. :)
I’m not sure I understand can you rephrase the question please?
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad If I look at photos online for a new Shimano Sora FC-3550 outer chainring, the teeth look like they are pointed. Is that the default design? Whereas the teeth on a new inner chainring look square like in your video.
Thanks.
@@hessajee different chainrings will have different design. I work on high end bikes and that’s what I showed in the video. Go with the Shimano photos for your specific drivetrain
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Thank you for your reply. :)
03:40 it can be saved by teeth reshaping
Not something shops will ever do. You just replace worn items. No need to spend man hours doing a half-ass job.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad that said WHO?, how much cost new anything(cassette , ring gear), time per tooth is 10 seconds so you can use calculator to find out how much time is needed to reshape 30/40/50/100 teeth, of course is faster to replace worn part with new one and you earn more money from customer, but if you wanna save money reshaping is right thing, and no problems with half-ass job because it is not, i have 20years experience in this, and you have 0 seconds and you claim it is half ass job👍
Where you finde 55/42
Your local bike shop. If you don’t succeed contact me directly revcycling@gnail.com
Can i ride with a new chain and the used chain ring? Will it damage the new chain?
I mentioned this in the video (maybe I have done so many of these videos I don’t know which is which anymore) .
But your chain may slip and you may drop your chain off the chainring and possibly lose control of the bike. It’s happened to me in the parking lot when test riding bikes.
If the chainring is worn you should replace it. It can be used and not worn beyond specifications and be fine. Only one way to find out and that is to allow an experienced bike mechanic inspect it at your local bike shop.
I can’t advise you since your bike is not in my work stand.
Thanks for watching please consider subscribing.
Might be a stupid thing to say but if the rider that strong he might as well go with a TT bike
It is a TT bike
But I don’t understand the logic of your statement.
that chainring look like a damn saw 💀💀
Ha ha yep!!
Wrong,there a way to measure chainrings and cassettes wear before they round look Zero Friction Cycling videos
link it
Shared
@@gilletteguy787 apologies but I don’t see the link. Where did you share it?
@@gilletteguy787 never mind you sent me an email. I wasn’t expecting that 😉
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad If you see the comments i share the link there
watching this after I crashed because my chain slipped
Oh no! Are you ok? I hope this helps diagnose what might have happened in your case. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
@SeeYouUpTheRoad Im ok, thanks for asking. Chainring and chain definitely needs replacing. Ill be keeping a closer eye on them from now on. Subbed.
Measure your chain and replace when it's 0.75 worn (chain measuring tool) then your chainrings will last 10x longer.
You are correct!
I judge people based on the condition they keep their bicycles. This guy is an animal and I would never ride with him, he would probably get me killed.
Who rides that bike, the hulk?
Lol! Super strong cyclist. Thanks for watching!