Such an awesome engine! I have the 220cdi version and it’s super economical and reliable. I have once had to replace an injector crush washer as it was leaking black tar, but did the job myself and she was sorted.
One you are done replacing the injector or injectors, you cycle the the key on and off two time without starting the engine and the car auto purges the air from the system, on the model used in the video. Thanks for watching hope its helpful
Mostly the car will go into limp mode when you are putting the car under-load. And then you will feel the acceleration and power is lacking. With the limp mode active, engine light will be on, and the car generally won’t exceed 3000rpm no matter how deep you push the accelerator. Nor will the sensor under the accelerator pedal activate when pushed. With a basic scan it would read the fault code. Just remember with electronics when one thing faults it causes a a serious of other faults
That copper ring is your injector seal, and needs to be replced, many online shops supply these. Thanks for watchin please condider to subscribe aswell
Such an awesome engine! I have the 220cdi version and it’s super economical and reliable. I have once had to replace an injector crush washer as it was leaking black tar, but did the job myself and she was sorted.
Thats so awesome
Thanks for this!
Do you need to reprogram anything with a brand new injector or with the reconditioned one?
Best regards
For better efficiency yes the should be reprogrammed.
Should never reuse injector bolts they’re a one time use stretch bolt
Noted , and thank-you !!!
Torque settings are 7nm+90’+90’
15nm +90+90
@@simeunovicm Mercedes recommends what I have said so I will take their word as gospel in fact over torquing is worse than under
@@abbottstephen82 7nm is for older engines and non-facelift w204 with m6 bolts, this is m7 bolt and torque is 15nm
Don’t Forget to put injector greas arround the injector
Thanks for the heads up!!
Does this also work on a 2011 w204 c300
Yes it does!
hi friend, please tell me, do you need to remove the air from the tubes?
One you are done replacing the injector or injectors, you cycle the the key on and off two time without starting the engine and the car auto purges the air from the system, on the model used in the video.
Thanks for watching hope its helpful
Did changing the injector fix the low fuel pressue issues you had with the car? As im having the same thing on the exact same car
Hi Tom, yes the injector replacement sorted it out, also done a off car dpf clean and now its running perfectly
How do you know when you need to replace the fuel injector?
Mostly the car will go into limp mode when you are putting the car under-load. And then you will feel the acceleration and power is lacking. With the limp mode active, engine light will be on, and the car generally won’t exceed 3000rpm no matter how deep you push the accelerator. Nor will the sensor under the accelerator pedal activate when pushed. With a basic scan it would read the fault code. Just remember with electronics when one thing faults it causes a a serious of other faults
6:51 Magnetic Pick UP Tool next time try one of these?
I do have a magnetic pick up tool but these injector seals are made of copper so it doesn't work.
If I have a pudle of either oil or diesel around each injector what could be leaking on this very engine?
Hi, I would say 99% that its your tappet cover gasket that needs replacing
@@menaceridesuk great thanks for your reply, I'm gonna attempt it myself
Hi I’m taking out an injector from one car to another, where do I get that copper ring from and is that necessary to change?
That copper ring is your injector seal, and needs to be replced, many online shops supply these.
Thanks for watchin please condider to subscribe aswell
@@menaceridesuk thanks
The atomizer tightening torque is 15nm, right?
Correct, But please refer to your specific car model workshop manual, thanks for watching!!
15nm +90 degrees +90 again