TSDZ2 Blue Gear Replacement and Service
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- A detailed step by step video if you need help to replace your blue gear or perform a service on your TSDZ2 motor.
So far my motor has done 2500km and it seems to be fine except for some slipping under very high loads. The Blue gear was replaced at 1380km and the brass gear is holding up well. It looks as though there is one bearing that has worn which should be a relatively easy fix. Let me know if you have any questions.
Sorry that this video is so long and drawn out please fast forward through it to the bit you need.
I have replaced two controllers on mine due to abuse and experimentation and thought I knew my way around the TSDZ2, but I must thank you for showing me how to get that motor unit out! I was losing my mind pulling on it and trying to devise some sort of puller contraption until I saw reason and looked it up and watched your video. Im just now getting into OSF and want to upgrade the VLCD5 and will be watching your other videos.
Thank you so much for this!! I’ve just managed to fix my broken blue gear and without you it would be impossible for me! Very grateful mate. Very happy from Wales 😊🏴
Best video I've seen covering this. Thanks for sharing.
Nicely expained procedure. This gives me the confidence to go ahead and get one of these motors knowing it is user serviceable.
No worries yes a piece of cake
Knowing bearing numbers would be an idea addition to this video
Hey, thank you very much for posting the video, the gear replacement went very smoothly. We got about 5000 miles out of our original blue nylon gear. I think it would have lasted at least another 5000 miles but the chain got jammed and destroyed 2 blue teeth (but the rest of the gear was in good condition). We are powering our motor with a 63v max (15s2p) battery, but it needs to be undercharged just a tiny bit to work (or we turn on the lights and pedal on full assist for a minute or two until the voltage drops enough for the motor to engage). The only issues I have is with the display which won't turn on or off anymore and it must be disconnected from the battery to shut it off and reconnected to turn it on. I am unsure if the high voltage battery caused this or if it was just a defect with the display. Anyway enjoy your bike!
Do you need to run a custom controller to handle the extra voltage or anything or can you just hook a higher voltage battery up to the TSDZ2 and go? I have a 48 volt kit id love to get some extra speed out of with a 52volt battery.
Thank you for making this video! Serviced today for the first time. About 4000km on it over the first year and it’s working pretty well. Fresh moly and checking the connections should help her run smooth this summer.
This was incredibly helpful. I cleaned and regreased everything today.
Love your vids. Find them very soothing to watch 😅. Thank you for making, will be very useful when it comes time to change my blue gear
It is enough to take the pedal off in order to use the original tool. This is easer than removing the arm as the arm needs to be really tight
You have no idea how much you've helped me decide to buy this mid drive kit, it's ease of maintenance & being able to upgrade parts as well as usability later on after I've had it for a year. Thank you. I have a 8 Kg Carbon Fiber Non Shock 26" MTB with Shimano Ultegra 9 speed Cassette & Derailleurs & my tires are Michelin Wild Run'R Advanced 1.10" slicks. I don't use the bike off-road it's purely for the road & so that my back does not hurt anymore since I stopped racing.
BTW, what are the type of connectors for the power on this as I'm making my own 10s 6p Battery?
It will fit into a waterproof plastic junction box that is 230mm x 150mm x 85mm which I'll be mounting onto the underside of the frame between the motor & front wheel to keep as much weight low to the ground. I'm making 4x 25x40x6mm Aluminium Flat Bar pieces with 5mm threads & drill 4 holes into the Carbon Fiber Frame then use 4 bolts into the Battery Box with 2x 90x40mm Aluminium Flat Bar on the inside of the box & 2x 2mm Rubber Mat in between the box & frame finished up with 4x 9x600mm zip ties to hold a 5.275 Kg Battery Box.
Mark, Perth, Western Australia
Good to hear. I use xt60 connectors and minimise the length of wire from the motor since its not really good for 20 amps.
I used the old front hub to block the engine (I dismantled it so that it was just the clamp and the protruding pin)
in addition, 2 aluminum flat bars and I hooked it all to the plate that fits between the support and the clamping ring/nut.
Unfortunately, you didn't install this sheet at all :)
Great video, two memos:
1.
This is just one part of a service, for a complete service the other side and the axle also need to be serviced (and bearings checked!)
For example the main clutch is rather weak-ish so could cause issues as well. Which sits on the other service-side.
2.
While at it just replice those bearings... You'll thank yourself later ;-)
(and be sure to get good quality japanese bearings)
Yes I have also replaced the sprag clutch. See my other video. I have more than 30,000kms now and still going
Best video I've seen on this motor! Thanks for taking the time to make it.
I've about dismissed using this motor on the bikes I build because of needed regular servicing. After seeing this video it's my impression that it only takes about 1/2 hr. That's an acceptable amount of time.
How often do you recommend doing a service on this motor?
I recommend every 1000km and yes it doesn't take too long and its very easy to work on.
This was very interesting. Maybe you can help. I have recently bought a tsdz2b with the osf firmware. Now after a few km the motor is running free. Spinning or slipping. Is de assemblee it and i have wih instead of a blue gear. Now my question is should the with gear have a kind of freewheel? There is not Any movement in the left or right direction.
Under heavy loads my cranks slip when I pedal and sometimes I have a bad clicking noise under full loads also I snapped my 2.5mm allen key trying to get the one of the 4 bolts off, they rock solid and wont budge!
That’s the sprag clutch, I have another video about this
@@jbalatutube Its a new sprag clutch it cant be that.
@@bazza156 hmm does it happen with the motor off then it is the sprag. Otherwise your chain may be slipping on your cassette it can do this under heavy loads, you may need to change them both. Good luck
The motor won’t push up against the frame if you fit the bracket that came with the kit.
Great work mate
I've done 1,400km with no probs over several months with my first TSDZ2 conversion, careful not to overheat or overstrain the motor, but my second, with a TSDZ2B, has started making a scronking noise unless I baby it along in granny gear. It's like a tooth jumping, sporadically jerking under load. Is this likely to be the nylon gear losing teeth?
what grease are you using? Is it a lithium grease?
I replaced my blue gear with a brass gear & after I put it all back together there seemed to be easy to push the cranks forward but back peddling was twice as difficult. Since I haven't put my motor on the bike yet I was wondering at what speed does the motor kick in to assist when you have it on full assist? While holding the motor & spinning the right crank without a pedal the motor didn't even start up even though it was connected to a battery, switched on with the VLCD5 speedo set to to full assist. I was wondering if the motor will not kick in until it senses movement of the wheel through the speed sensor? I'm still waiting on other parts to upgrade my bike before I put the motor & battery pack on so I changed out the plastic gear to keep as a spare if I ever damage the brass gear in the future & I have to wait for a replacement gear I'll just use the plastic gear until a new one comes in the mail. I hope that I haven't messed anything up inside.
Hello, fist of all thanks for your videos.
They are really useful.
One question: Is the brass gear much louder than the blue one?
I have a brand new tsdz2, just ordered a brass gear to have a spear.
Yes it is louder
hola gracias por el video ,tengo problemas con mi mortor , en llano va bien pero cuando subo una cuesta, el cuenta kilometros se pone en 99 y se para , me podria decir que le puede estar pasando gracias
I have this motor and it's developed a strange clicking noise . Not at all times but under heaviest load. I've ridden just over 1000km on it. I guess it's type to replace that gear...
what are the 4 screws you removed in the beginning to remove the cover, I cant find a bit for them
I notice you don’t appear to be using the torque clamp that attaches to the frame?
Thanks for making the video. Got a couple of shortcuts instead of the way I was doing it. Have a kit coming in that doesn't free wheel properly. Would you be interested in diagnosing the possible cause together?
Hello. I have a problem that I couldn't solve through your otherwise very useful video :/
I just received my motor and installed it on a new mountain bike. The pedal arms have an ever so slight play on them. They are not totally solid... You can move the one and you'll see the opposite one moving. It's just a bit wabbly actually (if I make any sense). I am talking about horizontal movement, not vertical of course. At first I thought I might have not tightened the arms firmly enough, but that's not the case since the play transfer to the opposite pedal too. Seems like the center piece that connects both of the pedals is a bit loose :/
I do have warranty, but I'd prefer if I could just start using my kit without delays and extra shipping costs to Italy :/
Any suggestions regarding my issue would be very welcome. Thank you in advance.
What is the noise difference between the PEEK and Bronze gears?
Great Video! Thank you
Do you degrease the gears after you take it out? What type of grease do you use?
I might have hit with the hammer on a block of wood a bit too hard on one side. The motor shaft seemed to be straight. Will see if it will lead to any other problems. In some videos the motor was removable by hands.
Hello, thanX for this Video! Think this Unit is more Service Friendly as the "original" Bafang Unit. You have experience and cam agree? Thank you from Germany
Thanks♡
This is an excellent video. Really informative a nice style and well filmed.
Just out of interest how does the longetivity of a TSDZ2 or even a Bafang motor compare to say a factory built bike (i.e. Bosch etc)?
Is it still a case of the ready built will last much longer?
I’m not keen to find out, I have about 4000km on my Bosch and 25000kms on my Tsdz2.. I keep my Bosch for off-road and the occasional ride so I can keep the kms low. I have no idea how long it will last but if something goes wrong it will be a lot more expensive to fix.
The TSDZ2 is real garbage. You can get mileage out of it if you constantly rebuild it and buy parts for it.
Thanks for this great video! Where did you get the brass gear?
This may be completely obvious to some but I would add a step 0: Remove the battery.
Yes! Even with the controller display turning the motor off, there is still voltage on the motor wiring if the battery is connected. A screw dropped into the electronics could short out and damage the electronics. The yellow, green, and blue wires might possibly be "live" and could short together also.
HELP someone pleas :( my display goes black after i try to turn it on. Then there is a short error code E0 8 and it goed back off...
Please post in the endless sphere tsdz2 forum. Make sure you provide more information like are you running factory firmware and how long has it been working ok ? Did you do anything that may have caused it ? The error codes will depend on your version, which display do you have ?
What is the tool to loosen up the bolt behind cranks without taking the cranks off?
It is just a tool they use for taking the grinding wheel off a side grinder. It doesn’t work very well as it often slips. Best to take off the peddle and use the too, that came with the motor.
Thanks for the video. Is there a reason that you are not using Moly-Grease? Moly-Grease is normally Recommended for Helical gears.
I used some high temp bearing grease because thats what I had sitting around. Pretty sure its molybdenum based anyway. Just don't use it on plastic.
Hi. I would like to know where did you get the replacement for the blue gear. Is it made of the same material? Good clarifying video. Thanks a lot.
I got a brass gear from pswpower to replace the blue nylon gear
Best Video > I like the Motor
I wish the bbs02 was that easy to work on - total disassembly is required unfortunately.
Yeah, no kidding. My 02 was taking a dump on my way home from work Friday. Time to pull it apart.
Is there any cons to using a metal gear vs the original nylon?
I'm planning to buy a TSDZ2 system and thinking about replacing that gear straight out of the box. I presume having a nylon gear failure is ride-ending, and that's no fun in the middle of a winter evening commute in the rain...
It's a bit louder. My friend has over 5000km and still on the blue gear. So stick with it until you break it. His bike feels smoother than mine.
Enjoying your videos. Thanks for posting. I have a query. I recently told you that I thought the Metal gear to be really noisy and that I had swapped back. I decided to give it another go. It made some really weird mechanical noises and I decided that something wasn't right. I stripped it again and replaced it with the blue gear. Since then nothing, not a sausage. I gone over the rebuild twice and everything is as it should be but I have no assist at all. Have you any ideas? I would be really grateful for your thoughts.
Wow that sucks big time. If you have flashed the motor then maybe you have done it wrong. If not then maybe you forgot to connect the hall wires correctly or the sensor wire connector. I assume its not possible to install the blue gear back to front. just check my video and make sure you followed all the steps. Weird mechanical noises doesn't sound too good. If there is no power then its possible you may have blown something on the controller ?
@@jbalatutube Thank you. All the hall and sensor wires were correct and as should be. The blue gear doesn't go in the other way around and the wee washer was fitted. I checked it out twice and cannot find a poor/bad connection or a mistake of my own making. I have rebuild a fair few motorcycle engines, so I'm not a complete beginner. I really appreciate your advice. I'll let you know the outcome.
Dear sir, really interesting channel. Keep posting video about tsdz2 please!! Just an information, I would like to install this motor on my full suspended bike(as yours). Is it the back screw mandatory to fix the engine on the frame?(the full suspended frame keeps moving up and down so I guess that screw should not be mounted) thanks a lot
Unnecessary. I have only the silver nut holding my motor on & it's solid. Honestly, the motor would spin towards hitting the down-tube and lock in place anyway.
Thanks for the video. It helps a lot. Which grease are you using? Also, do you recommend to upgrade to the brass gear, is it worth it noise wise? Thanks
I have same question as yours: have you find the specific grease for tsdz2? Can you provide me the name? thanks
Noob question here, sorry: How do you compare servicing times on this motor to BBS02 or Bosch?
I have some friends with Bosch Mid Drives with 7000+ Km on them but never heard them mentioning this kind of servicing...
What Bosch is a BBS02 mid drive retrofit model? "Never heard" of it....
Hello I have a problem with my motor my chain ring is moving if I reverse the bicycle please let me know the problem and if possible solution thank you
Just check all the bolts are tight attaching your chain ring it is not that complicated. If the entire axle is moving then you probably need to add another thin washer on the opposite side under the circlip. See my sprag clutch video to see how to get to it.
How is the brass gear coupled to the small output gear? It looks like they turn independently, but I must be missing something.
In case you are still interested in the answer: from what I read about the motor there is a one way bearing that transfers the power from the brass/nylon gear to the shaft. It was designed to roll freely when backpedaling and lock up to transfer the power when pedaling.
@@joshnabours9102 Interesting! Thanks! I guess there must be a press fit built into one of the parts somewhere? It was very mysterious to me.
So did you figure out what the clicking was? Mine is clicking now and I am wondering why... Did the clicking stop just from the re-greasing?
Mine started doing that a short while ago, and then the sprag clutch on the big gear failed. There is a video on UA-cam showing the sprag clutch replacement. It's a bit of a pain to do because it's a very tight press fit into the gear itself. I managed it with a bench vise, a few strategically placed blocks of wood, and a blowtorch to heat the gear itself (to expand it away from the bearing). If that puts you off, there is the whole assembly available as a spare, but it was a fair bit more and I didn't like the idea of replacing one cheap chinesium bearing with another. I bought a German made replacement that I'm hoping will have better lifespan.
You can test the sprag clutch by pressing really hard on the pedal with motor off and brakes on. But most clicking sounds are due to the motor rubbing on the frame. Loosen it off give it a clean and install a new rubber pad and see if that helps.
Hi,
May I ask is the bottom bracket of dual suspension capable with the tsdz2? and does the brass gear making louder noice?
Sorry for not getting back to you, best to join in the forums on endless sphere. I use plastic washers on each side of the motor to ensure the lock nut stays tight. I dont secure it any other way besides using a piece of rubber between the motor and bike frame. Yes brass gear is louder but I have never had any issues for more than 6000kms
My blue gear is seized onto the shaft. It's hard to leverage so how would I get it out and is it a good idea to grease the shaft for next time?
Good luck with that maybe just hit it with WD40 and let it sit for a day or so
@@jbalatutube Cheers I'll try that, it's still working fine but just a bit sticky at very low cadence. Did you ever lube the roller bearing inside the blue gear?
@@smallhatshatethetruth7933 not intentionally, it is a one way clutch bearing so im not sure you should let grease get in there
@@jbalatutube Well my large gear crapped out on me yesterday and shredded the blue gear with it. Since the blue gear was seized on I hammered out the shaft from the other end with the small gear and replaced those parts. I love that I could do all that without taking the motor off of the bike. It's super quiet now too
What's the name of the tool you used to tighten the lock nut ? I want to get the same as I lost the original tool.
Thanks
Sorry I dont know, its just a really old tool that was in my toolbox. I would use it to remove the ring and the bottom brackets on my first racer more than 30 years ago
Its called a "adjustable pin spanner/wrench" but its not designed to adjust the locking ring... Hook spanner/wrench is tool that designed to used....
1:20 that tool, where did you get it from? Cheers.
I inherited it from my dad's garage, I think it's a tool for the hand held grinder. It does cause some damage to the nut and I have gone back to using the original tool that came with the motor at the expense of having to remove the peddle to use it.
I think it was lose,2 holders missing maybe that was the reason of the noise.
No it was the Sprag clutch which I replaced. I have done a video on that too :)
@Paul Plebian I'm having lots of drag issues with my motor at the moment hopefully I have not cracked the housing but I will try using the side bracket and see if its any better. Thanks for your reply
@@jbalatutube Eco-Cycles told me that the side bracket is absolutely needed as the motor will only be held up by a thin part/angle where the case goes into the chainring. Without the side bracket, the housing will break.
@@nlum3135 this is true I think I have just been lucky
what is that tool called?
And thank you for that informative video! :D
Thank you :) Try looking up hook wrench or lock nut wrench for a grinder.
@@jbalatutube thank you very much! I think thanks to you I will get a Tongsheng aswell, :) Curious how it turns (rhetorical pause) out aswell :) To see how you took it apart a.s.o. really encouraged me :)
Its called a "adjustable pin spanner/wrench" but its not designed to adjust the locking ring... the Hook spanner/wrench is tool that designed to used....
I can see the wear on the Pinion Gear as well as the others. See no o- rings. The stater had water damage on it. I would silicone all the wires were they enter from one side to the other. I can tell that the motor gets extremely hot from the color of grease gears ect. Dude and everyone do yourselves a favor and go to Luna Cycle and get the BBSHD. Then you will know what a true Mid-drive should feel like.
U messed up by putting a metal gear. As it is harder it can may end up damaging other gears on loads . Manufacturing put nylon gear as a weak point is something goes wrong. I don’t see that motor lasting any longer
I have done more than 30,000kms now but I finally did order another blue gear just to see if it reduces the sound a little, I’m sick of all the whining 😀
@@jbalatutube 30,000kms on one motor? Wow! I guess you kept up the every-1000 maintenance schedule? Do you have a rough list of the parts replaced in the time?
@@jazpaz5688 actually the only things i changed were at the start just the blue gear and the sprag clutch. No i have only serviced it a few times whenever it starts to get noisy. I changed back from the metal gear to the blue gear again just for the noise and im very happy with it.
What grease do you use?
Where do you find parts? If you need.
I get my stuff from pswpower
on ali express its 25 euro