The BEST Archery Nocking Point - How To Tie and Set An Advanced 'Korean' Style Nock Point
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- I show you how to make the BEST nocking point ever.
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Tying and setting your nocking point properly is HUGELY important to your vertical grouping and bare-shaft tuning of your bow. In this video I show you how to make what some people term a 'Korean' style nocking point because of the longer profile of each section. These are the most secure, clean and durable nocking points you can make. They're a bit more advanced, and take longer to learn than other methods, but the time will pay for itself because they should never come loose when done correctly.
For a more simple, basic nocking point method suited to beginners, check out this video: • The EASIEST Archery No...
For an amazing chart to find the perfect nock fit on your string:
www.onlinearcheryacademy.com/...
Enjoy, and thanks for watching!
--------TIMESTAMPS------------
00:00 - Intro & What You need
02:40 - Marking the string
03:50 - Starting the nocking point
05:10 - Adjusting the placement
07:40 - The midpoint
11:00 - The reverse part
13:30 - Serving the reverse part
15:30 - Pulling the end through
18:30 - Tidying up
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Great job. Best nocking point I've seen so far.
Thank you!
Absolutely the most complicated way I've ever seen someone do a nock position and I've been shooting a bow for 40 years.
This is a great video, really the nicest and tidiest knocking points I've seen. Very well demonstrated!
Best video I've seen on the subject.
This is the worst video for showing how to serve a string nock point on a bow string. His method is incorrect and the no will slide on the string. It must be whip stitched in order to not move.
An exceptionally well made tutorial. Your channel is a gold mine for archers. Thank you so much.
His method is improper and will it hold. It should have been whip stitched not simply wrapped and tied in a knot. This guy is a novice.
@@TACTICALNOMAD why don't you share your method that's better instead of yapping and calling an excellent method out for no reason? I've been using this nocking point for the last 6 months and it hasn't moved a milimeter. Go on then, show us how to do it better.
I followed your instructions and now I have a perfect nocking point! Thanks so much 👍
Expecting my first bow set [Stark Futura] to arrive next week and really didn't want to use brass nocks, so got a bit of thread and tried this technique out freehand on a cable. Really simple and easy. Awesome stuff.
I tried this as it looks so much better than the brass nock that I had, I found getting the starting position difficult to start with, but once that had locked in place it went well, it feels a lot better under the tab, just need to get out & use it! Thanks for all the informative videos
Thank you for sharing this, this is the best nocking point video I've come across. Great Job 🏹
This is the first nocking point I have tried and mine were very slightly bumpy, but vastly superior compared to the brass nocks I've been using
Huge thanks for that vid! I managed to get it after my fourth try and it looks really good!
Just managed to do one of these without surgical tweezers and the spool dispenser. I dropped the spool about 20 times and needed both hands and my teeth at several stages. Popping an elastic band around the spool and slowly twisting out thread (to keep the dispensed thread taught) might be a simple alternative.
Thanks, I tied a piece of sawing string to fix the start and adhesive tape to fix the free end and it worked better, than freehanded. My bow shoots lot better without brass nocks.
It is without doubt, the best.
I’ve been using McKenzie Browns nocking point method which is really good but this method looks even better, nice video Ash
Thanks so much! That's awesome you like it :) Honestly, they're just so secure!
Thanks. The Best. 👍🏹
Brilliant Thank you..
Nice job, Mate... thank you.
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching :)
Good job
You should look into a fly tying bobin. Particularly the new styles that are around. It might be a lot easier compared to the tool you're using.
The knot/wrapping is simular to that of rod building and fishing.
You’ld think that if you’ve never had to do a center serving, this would be like offering a pick when the person needs a hammer. Two totally different tools for two totally different needs. Was interesting though; I’ve never previously looked at fly tying bobbins. But as soon as I looked at it I was like, yeah that’s not going to work.
After forth, try as a beginner. I got it, thank you
I wanted to have longer serving than the "easy" ones which I usually have anyway, so I will try these now :)
Awesome! Let me know how you get on! Once you've shot with this style you won't be able to go back, so much nicer under the tab, and much more secure and clean!
I can absolutly recommend this nocking point too, no problems at all
Thanks Sonja! That's awesome! They are so good, I love them!
You just have to practice a little bit but then it's actually quite simple, I love them too!
ur a fuckin lifesaver m8.
I was able to do it without a spool, flat on a table. It's a bit trickier but definitely doable.
Welcome back coach
Thanks Othman!
Hi Ashe. This is a perfect final nocking point. What type of provisional nocking point do you use when you are looking for the right place for it? best regards :)
Ooh, good question - I feel another video coming on. In short - insulation tape (also known as electricians tape). I wrap it around the string tightly and it's perfect for finding the height when tuning
Hello, is there any video on how to make your own titeva?
When making the first mark to set the nock point hight where does the 11mm come from? I noticed it was 8mm on your easier nocking points. What dictates this measurement?
Do you wind it in the same direction as the direction of the serving or in the opposite direction?
Hi Ashe. I did a nocking point like this, but instead of doing it with 30 laps by section, I only did 20 laps. Even so, I felt a little friction on the fingertab, at the release. It could be cause by the fingertab leather, or should I use a smaller diameter (I used BCY 3D 0.017 ")? By the way, the nocking point was perfect and very nice :)
Hey Rijodel! That's awesome, glad you liked it! It could be the material, I have to say that I haven't used the BCY 3D 0.017". Honestly, I only ever have Angel for centre serving/nocking point as I find it by far the smoothest :)
Hi. Thanks for another great video. Can i just check...are you serving in the same direction as the centre serving? (so the nocking thread effectively lies in/follows the grooves of the centre serving).
Good question - but actually both directions as when you rotate the bow around the top nocking point would be served the other way :) The direction of serving doesn't matter :)
I posted this iover the w/e n response to a more recent Q (apologies if you already saw it): "Watching a recent Jake Kaminsky (Olympian, mark you) video yesterday, on centre serving I think, and somewhere in there, and in the subsequent conversations was the advice that your nocking points should be served around the bowstring following the same direction around the bowstring as the centre serving"
@@philipsturtivant9385 For this method you will end up serving in both directions when doing the nocking point, because you turn the bow around to do the second one. Whichever orientation you choose for the first one, you'll do the opposite for the second. Honestly, I don't think it makes any difference worrying about making the nocking point in the same direction as the centre serving :) These nocking points you could do whichever way round you like and they won't come loose if you do them properly 💪
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy Surely you can reverse the direction of rotation of jig around string you serve, just as you have reversed the orientation of the bow, when you create the second nocking point. Hey presto - 2 nocking points of identical orientation. How much difference it might make in paractice, I couldn't say - you'd need a cordage ninja or some kind of stress engineering expertise to figure that one out scientifically :-D
Philip Sturtivant My kid is going around lately applying the “Scientific Method” to all questions we want answers to and having tried both ways for his youth bow he has concluded that he still misses the target on occasion. *Results may vary.
Great video! I've had issues with shorter nocking points coming loose after a few arrows- these longer ones are great! One question- at 18 metres my arrows enter the target with the back lower than the front, does that indicate nocking points too high or too low?
Thanks Darren! That's awesome, glad you like them too :)
I can't remember the actual answer, but I'm pretty sure I read a webpage earlier this year that explains it: a Google for '
Fishtailing and Porpoising Arrows' will get it for you.
Hey Darren, sorry - I didn't see the second part of your comment! It probably means the nocking point is too low. If you test it at closer range too this should match up. The reason I say 'should' be is because past a certain distance the arrow can correct itself and then angle the other way to the initial reaction. Normally this is around 30m or so.
There's some more detail on using the angle of the nock to tune here:
www.onlinearcheryacademy.com/recurve-tuning/#tuning-3-arrowangle
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy thanks for the information!
I've done hundreds of these whippings on rope ends--now I'm going to do it on my bowstring! Great idea!
Hi! I have a question: what's the 'orientation' of the nocking-point coiling if you are a left-hand archer? can you follow the same direction as shown in the video? or should I do it in the reverse direction?
Good point - honestly, it doesn't matter :) I think it's just an old myth...or something which matters for weakling nocking points, not for these bad boys 😜. Because of the method, and how the bow is facing different directions when doing the top vs the bottom nock point, the material is actually wrapped around the string in different orientations for the top and bottom, and both are nice and secure :)
Watching a recent Jake Kaminsky (Olympian, mark you) video yesterday, on centre serving I think, and somewhere in there, and in the subsequent conversations was the advice that your nocking points should be served around the bowstring following the same direction around the bowstring as the centre serving, Handedness shouldn't be the issue, it seems to me.
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy I totaly agree. I've never paid attention to the rotation of the serving. If it's made correctly, it will never move.
がんのほう酸
Is it adjustable?
With regard to barebow, we do keep the nocking point at the same position, and stringwalk from there. My question is, how much of a gap should we leave between the upper and lower nocks? Because the more we stringwalk (for closer and closer target distances), the greater the angle between the arrow nock and string. I don't want the position nocks to press on the top side of the arrow nock. I've been leaving a 2mm gap with brass nocks and tie-on knocks. I'll try this Korean style and see if that allows me to close the gap. Has anyone else tried this?
Thanks for clarifying that - great question about the gap - 2mm sounds definitely too large - I'd leave just enough for the nock to 'wiggle' slightly :) Probably between 0.5-1mm
Why not start with the top one first where the nock rests on vertically?
I like this method most and I'm using BCY 3D 0.016" end serving material for it so it is hardly noticeable under the tab.. Only thing I'm struggling with is to maintain tight enough gap between nocking points. Quite often it is good at first but after say 100 arrows it became loose (nock has little play in it). Previously I was using moving nock which I could twist into the place but that requires superglue and it can move either way.
@Online Archery Academy do you have any suggestions how to serve second nocking point to get good nock fit?
Try to pull the 3D thread around a hotglue stick before you serve. You might though get less good of a release.
This method should prevent that, but as Henrik said some hotmelt could work to make it even more secure. Or some superglue on afterwards. Honestly, I've always found BCY material slips and slides very easily, but the Angel is braided and has a much better grip on the string, so is less prone to moving or being pushed over. I only ever use Angel for the centre serving and nock point unless I'm absolutely forced to use something else. If you wanted something quite thing still you could use Angel 0.015" or even Angel 0.018" - believe it or not Angel 0.018" might even be thinner than BCY 0.016". The way they measure thicknesses between BCY/Angel seems to vary and I found Angel is smaller generally. You can see this in the nock fit table (link in the video description) where sometimes a 'thicker' angel serving gives a looser fit than a 'thinner' BCY serving.
I have found the same issue with 3D (tied using the method outlined in the video above). Although it has taken more than 100 shots for me, i have noticed some play creeping in (even when tried coating the nock point in superglue). I was suspecting it might be an issue with the 3 ply twisted construction allowing the thread to compress over time. I will definitely look at using something braided next time as well.
Thank you all for ideas! I just built new string for my 74" bow and will try beiter nockpoints this time. I'm expecting it to fail misserably in just few dozen shots though ;)
It is difficult enough to install. I don't know if it can stay on 28 strands Mercury string.
@@Piasecznik72Just be a little careful with Mercury as it is chiefly a compound string mtrl. Don't shoot lighter arrows than you have to, in order to take the energy out of the bow. Also be sure of proper nock fit.
Next iteration of string investment consider going with bcy652 or Angel. It will be nicer on the limbs, enabling you to drop arrow weight and it will be more forgiving overall :)
hi. what's the specific nocking point material? angel type?
ALWAYS Angel for centre servings, nothing else if I can ever help it. It's Angel 0.021" Angel and the centre serving is Angel 0.018" :) If I'm making a string and doing end servings I don't mind using a different material, but Angel is by far the best for centre servings!
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy hi. many thanks for your reply.
Do those string walkers put their nock points at different position on the string. I beginner. So I have not messed with yet. As I still trouble with the form. But I want to process into this style.
It was a question, forgot the "?"
Barebow isn't my speciality - but I'm pretty sure they have the nock point in the same place each time, and just move where they place their fingers/tab on the string :)
Want to understand barebow? Seek out Jake Kaminski's UA-cam channel. He's a 2 x Olympic silver medallist, trained for years under coach Kisik Lee, and he is (as of right now) documenting on UA-cam his journey to barebow competence. If there's anybody you can learn from, it will be Jake (and all the barebow ninjas who post advice on here, after each new video :-) )
@@philipsturtivant9385 thanks for the tips
Couldn't you use the same method and cut the amount of material down significantly ? They seem like huge nocking points, adding unnecessary weight to the string. I've used a similar method for years, but not near as big as these.
Absolutely! You can definitely do less turns, but I prefer them longer, so it's just personal choice :)
Some people double back over with another layer, effectively two Korean nock on top of each other. Why so? Great vid BTW.👍
Thanks so much! Good question - I'm not sure why that's necessary to be honest! I prefer one layer as it's much smoother under the tab :)
Perhaps to increase the radius and thus circumference and surface area, decreasing pressure on fingers.
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy Would agree with single layer too as I think doubling brings your tag end back to the nock and increases risk of snagging / unravelling.
Interesting! It's kind of like doing the Korean nock point but with a serving spool. Will give this a try!
Awesome! Have fun!
Great video .. Could I ask that to remove the background music... Otherwise great teaching.. thanks @sean.archery
Absolutely - a few people have said that it would be better without, so I'll do it without in future videos :) Thanks for watching again!
How loose should the nock be to avoid nock pinch.
Great question - here's a video I did on this:
ua-cam.com/video/YOJtwtv-P_0/v-deo.html
And here's a full blog post too:
www.onlinearcheryacademy.com/nock-fit-guide/
You are way more long-winded than my grandmother,,,lol
Music background is a pain. Useful info though.....
Nice video but I see no reason for the spool.
You create beautiful content, I am a fan but the background music is never an added value.
Thanks so much Wim! Really appreciate it - a couple of people have said the same so I'll be going forwards without the background music now :)
I concur.
I agree, it's irritating.
This is an improper way to serve a string nocking point. Whip Stitching is the proper way to do it. The way you did it it will move on the string.