Thanks for the insight. I just purchased bar-ends today along with a new rear tire. Honda shop had stock IRC on the rack. Not quite to wear bars but very close, 4960mi. Your vid was very helpful.
Thanks for making such a great video. I bought a 2020 Super Cub and I couldn't see what was behind me which is very dangerous, so I ordered the same mirror that you installed. I love your videos.
Thanks for the feedback, Robert, and congrats on our new Super Cub! Those OEM mirrors were just rubbish... and they were a real safety hazard. The CRG's are a little bit lower and can take some time to get accustomed to looking down, but that field of view just can't be beat! I LOVE these mirrors... they are installed on 4 of my bikes right now, and soon to be a 5th! Cheers! 👍 --QM
Shop manual only instruct to depress top clip, NO NO, there are 2. I used screw driver and needle nose to compress exposed retainer ends. Some twisting worked bar weight free. Mirrors I bought look nice but are too small and non-foldable. CRG Hindsight Lane Split are being shipped today. Plastic mount plug caps for Eigo mirrors make perfect stock mirror receiver covers. Look nice.
Just did this today on my Cub. I did almost exactly what you did, a pair of angled pliers, but I used a pair of needle nose Vise Grips to hold the weight in place after I got the first clip pressed in, that left both hands free to work on the bottom one, then it slid right out with no problem :D It's nice because the retaining clip is removable, so, in theory you should be able to reuse the weight without the bar end. I'm going to try it "because I can"!
Congrats on your Super Cub and bar-end mirrors! I figured out a faster way to remove the bar weights after a few tries on other bikes: - remove the end weight and then screw the bolt back in about 1/2" - grab the screw with a pair of channel-lock pliers or vice-grips - use a hammer to strike the pliers outward (away from the bike) This will bend/break the little tabs from the ends of the bar weight clips, but they aren't going to be reused again anyway. Remove the clips from the end of the weights and then thread the bar weight onto the end of the bar-end adapter's screw. This worked perfectly for my Cub. You can see the process in a follow-up video here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard haha, taking a hammer to my bike would give me great anxiety. Also, the mounting pegs for the OE mirrors are standard RH threads. It's the mirrors that are LH thread. It's annoying because you can't use the mounting pegs for anything. I had to get some new hardware to keep my windshield mounted without the mirrors in place. I can't for the life of me understand why they'd make the mirror stems LH, but the mounts are RH.
Serial watching the vids. One thing this series made me realize: a lot of these mods are impractical to consider if you're a city owner of the Cub, with no working space other than a sidewalk! Also, Honda seemed to purposely engineer the bike with the firm intention to make a lot of this work pretty awkward.
Most mass-produced vehicles are that way now... not easy to work on by the end-user or owner. My buddy, Adrian, had similar difficulties installing the CRG's on his Cub, so we talked about it and I gave him an alternate method: remove the end weight, screw the bolt back in about 1/2", clamp onto the bolt/screw with a pair of Vice-grips or channel-lock pliers, and then hit the pliers with a hammer to force the spring clip out. He said it worked on the first try and only took about 30 seconds per side. I didn't have the benefit of any hindsight when I made this video, so it was an expedition... now that it's been done multiple times, it's much easier. As for the Cub's serviceability, I'll say that it's definitely harder than the older Cub's and Passports. The new plastics and highly-complex leg shield fitting make simple tasks of yesteryear exceedingly difficult. You can watch my partial teardown video here for a taste of that chaos: ua-cam.com/video/k1ri2ZEX9JI/v-deo.html . Cheers! 👍 --QM
The bar end weights are a very similar design to those on my Royal Enfield GT 650cc. I got mine out by using a slide hammer. That works OK but it is a bit brutal. Vice grips with a 3/16" diameter rod welded to each jaw with 1/8" projecting beyond each jaw face would probably be a better solution.
I was trying to get the bar weights out with the least amount of damage to the parts. In retrospect, I probably should have just removed the grips entirely, but I didn't want to destroy them in the process. I was working without the benefit of a shop manual or exploded diagrams, so I was flying blind. Now that I've seen the inner workings, it wouldn't be as difficult to do it again. 😉👍 --QM
I got the cheap Chinese knock off CRG mirrors, they are not to bad. I pulled the bar ends out a little but and attached them there. They fit pretty good! It gives you the best of both worlds, a mirror and no vibration!
Yep, that's an easy trick. I didn't want to remove the grips completely because Honda glues these on with rubber cement. The updated procedure (trick) to removing the inner bar weights is actually much simpler: use the original bar-end screw, a pair of pliers, and a hammer as a makeshift slide-hammer to whack out the clips! The retaining clip is damaged in the process, but I'm not reusing that clip anyway: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The best way to remove rubber hand grips like that is to pry up the very end of the grip and squirt some soapy water between the handle and grip. Start twisting the grip and the soapy water will penetrate and act as a lubricant to slide the grip off.
Just installed a $16 pair of the "Chinesium" variety. I used opposing 3mm flat bladed screwdrivers to actuate the clips with only minimal swearing. Had to be careful on the right side as I didn't want to break the throttle sleeve. Much appreciation to you for the videos. Probably saved me an hour of misery.
@@QuasiMotard Let's stay in touch. I'm going in the same direction as you, setting the bike up for long distance travel. I plan to sign up for the 2020 Scooter Cannonball but will be doing several weeks of touring this fall. Plan is to hit a good number of National Parks and possibly do the Continental Divide ride as well.
@@rickgermain7802 Absolutely! That sounds like a fantastic plan, sir! I don't know if I can take too much time off of work and family, but I certainly plan to get out for several week-long journeys and lots of weekend motocamping. You can reach me at my Gmail account anytime: quasimotard@gmail.com --QM
Greetings from Texas! Thank you for the feedback and the compliment! I think that your Super Cub in EU/Poland looks much better than the USA model... much better indicators and tail light assemblies. --QM
you welcome :) Yes, in Poland the available Honda version of Super Cub C125 has different rear light and direction, the same as in the version in Japan, only there is no original rear carrier, you have to buy yourself and probably not the original as in Japan ... Regards !
Got my c125 2 weeks back and already racked 350mi on it. I love it and can't wait to add aftermarket parts to really make it my own. Thank you so much for posting these videos. This is my first bike so these are incredibly helpful for when I hit the shop. I do have a question. I am looking to add some parts to my bike such as a new suspension. Seems the ones I want are only available from WeBike Japan and I am wondering how compatible they are to the US model. Thanks again for the awesome channel!
Congrats on your new Super Cub, and thx for the feedback! All of the new Super Cub parts (C125) should be interchangeable across the markets, so purchasing from the foreign suppliers shouldn't be any problem. I have purchased several items for my Cub from overseas because we don't have any established aftermarket for the Cub here in the USA... yet. Hopefully the Cub will become popular enough in the USA so resellers will stock aftermarket parts. Cheers, and keep pounding out those miles (smiles)! I already have over 2.2K on mine and the numbers are steadily climbing. 😉👍 --QM
I rode for 1yr with these mirrors and took them off. The mirror riser extender is a MUCH better solution which gives you complete rear view at eye level. Don't waste your money on bar end mirrors..
What’s your opinion... if you didn’t buy the right hand mirror would you have!! You said something about one mirror in on of the Video’s! every time i Ride this bike what a kick!!!
I have a couple of commute vlogs on the Cub that I haven't edited or uploaded yet. I finally decided that I wanted the mirror on the right side because I kept looking over there out of motor memory. There were a couple of occasions when I looked back and there was a car just over my shoulder in my blind spot on the right side (my torso blocked the view in the left mirror). With both CRG's on this thing, you can see everything all the way around behind you, it's fantastic. I am really enjoying the cub so far, and the fuel mileage is astonishing. My last couple of tanks have been over 140 MPG! --QM
did you do a video on using the stock bar weights with the bar end mirrors? I'm looking at these mirrors but really don't want more vibration -- thanks
Yes, the handlebar vibration was noticeable, so I remounted the mirrors again with the inner weights attached. You can see that procedure here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The inner bar weight is held in place by a spring clip that has two small pins that interlock with indentations in the handlebars. The only "easy" way to depress both of those pins at the same time is to remove the grips. Unfortunately, Honda secures the OEM grips with rubber cement, so they don't like to come off gracefully. 😉👍 --QM
I believe that I’m getting one like yours I just got rear ended on my 2018 Honda Grom I only have 605 miles it has frame damage. If the insurance totals the bike the c125 that’s on my list
@@aquaazul69 Eww... sorry to hear about your mishap. Hopefully your frame fared better than the bike did. I haven;t owned a Grom personally, but I have ridden them many times. I prefer the Cub's feel and aesthetics much better over the Grom. The larger wheels certainly help it to handle and ride better. --QM
Looks great! Do you have any recommendation on how to move/slide the left side grip a bit further to the right? For whatever reason there is a 1” space between the edge of the grip and where it contacts the headlight switch area. I haven’t had any luck, thinking of just cutting it and buying a new grip if i can order an oem one.
That's odd... my bike doesn't have any gap between the grip and switch assembly. If it is an OEM grip, then it's probably glued to the handlebars with rubber cement. You can use a thin flat-head screwdriver to work all the way around the grip (and full-depth, from end to end) to break up that glue and re-position the grip to be flush with the switch assembly. If that doesn't work, replacing the grip might be your only option... just use a box knife or razor blade to cut the OEM grip lengthwise to remove it from the bars. Alternatively, if this is a new Super Cub, then I would take it back to the dealer and ask them to figure it out... the bike shouldn't have been delivered that way. --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks! Likely an assembly error/not enough glue i'm thinking. I'm wondering if it somehow got shifted during transport from the dealer. Never had this happen on a bike, but the OEM part/replacement grip was $2.50 + tax so I just ended up ordering it. Going to go that route vs. the dealer. Don't want to miss out on any prime riding time!
Is there a reason why one could not simply leave the damper in the handle bar, and screw the black round bar end mirror adapter to it using a stainless bolt/screw that had the same thread pitch as the factory bar end?
Yes, that's what I eventually did a few weeks later. The only caveat is that you still have to remove inner weight and take off the locking ring/collar because it doesn't sit deep enough to allow the bar-end adapter to fit into the bar. The screw for the bar-end only gives a few threads to grab the weight, but it works. I added a few turns of electrical tape on the joint to keep them from separating too easily. --QM
@@QuasiMotard Gotchya, thanks! My thought was at 1:08, some small diameter washers (matching ID/OD as inside the hand grip) could be stacked on to the the of the inner bar until the washers sat flush with the end of the hand grip. Then you could just the the factory bar end screw to attach the mirror adapter; just like you were reinstalling the factory bar end.
@@rerock826 The original bar ends are a much larger diameter than the 7/8" needed for the CRG mirrors, and the odd thing is that they rotate freely even when tightened down. The inner weight is damped by rubber collars and spins freely within the bars, so that wouldn't make a good perch/base for the mirrors. Here is a good breakdown of how I reinstalled both of the CRG's and reused the OEM inner bar weight to reduce the bar vibrations: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html --QM
@@aquaazul69 Excellent, thanks for the tip! That could be useful to other Cub owners that don't want to go to the expensive route of replacing the mirrors. --QM
Yes, I needed to replace a broken CRG mirror on the right side after my son wrecked the Cub. I showed the process here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . The easier way to remove the factory inner bar weights is the following: - remove the outer end weight and screw - reinstall the screw about 1/4" into the threaded inner weight - grab the screw with a pair of pliers sideways (perpendicular), and strike outward on the pliers with a hammer The little clips that secure the inner weights will pop loose and the weights slide out of the handlebars easily. The clips might be damaged in the process, but you won't need those if you are using bar-end adapters and/or pushing those factory weights further into the handlebars (clips wouldn't line up with the original holes). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Hmm... that's a hard question to answer because each one is a completely different riding style and each has different qualities/expectations. The Cub is definitely the winner on the cool and retro factors, but it's not as capable overall as the Ryker (e.g. commuting, long-distance rides, etc). The Ryker is certainly a conversation starter (just like the Cub), but I still have my complaints and reservations about its handling characteristics... the high-speed stability still leaves much to be desired and it gets very tiring/annoying to fight it to stay in a single lane over long rides. If you're a seasoned 2-wheel rider and you're currently riding motorcycle, then adjusting to the Ryker can be a little bit of a learning curve. The Cub also takes a little bit of re-learning how to shift it smoothly (slow release with the foot instead of fingers on a clutch, timing is different). Both of them are a blast to ride as long as you have clear expectations of what they can (or can't) do well. You can email me at quasimotard@gmail.com and we could set up a meet somewhere so you can get a look at both of them in person. --QM
No, lane-splitting is not legal in Texas. The only state that I know that it's legal for certain is California. Many riders here will do it anyway in heavy traffic just to avoid overheating or being rear-ended by other traffic. I will ride the shoulder sometimes in extreme circumstances, but I typically don't split lanes here because the cagers are very aggressive and unpredictable (e.g. rapid lane changes without signaling, intentionally swerving to block your path, opening car/truck doors to block, etc). --QM
Thanks for the feedback! That black plastic lever is a Go Cruise throttle lock (cruise control): amzn.to/3P11KXD . It's a simple tension lock that rests against the front brake lever to hold the throttle in a certain position. To set it, you roll open the throttle to a desired position and then press down on the lever with your index finger. To cancel the cruise setting, you simply roll the throttle down against the resistance of the lock lever. It's a real sanity saver on long road trips. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
If I recall correctly, it's a M5x1.0mm pitch. You can pull one end weight and use that screw to match it at the hardware store. I think that the screws that came with the CRG bar-end adapters were 35mm long. --QM
@@torokun YES... you NEED the inner weights or the bars will be very buzzy. I went back into my bars a few days after this video and posted an update here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . The threads on the CRG bolt are just long enough to screw into the inner bar weight. I wrapped a couple of turns of electrical tape around the junction just so they wouldn't vibrate apart inside the handlebar tubes. 😉👍 --QM
No, unfortunately, that won't work. The outer bar weights are secured to the inner weight, which is suspended by rubber bushings. So the exposed end cap is free to rotate. A new bar-end that secures to the inner diameter of the handlebar is needed to provide a secure mounting point for the bar-end mirrors. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Yes, the handlebar vibration was noticeable, so I remounted the mirrors again with the inner weights. You can see that procedure here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
That is the GoCruise throttle lock (cruise control): amzn.to/2VUkEsb . I have these cruise controls on most of my bikes and scooters for highway & touring duty. It just clips over the grip and you rotate it with your index finger to lock the throttle position against the front brake lever. They work extremely well, and they allow you to completely remove your hand from the throttle (unlike the palm rest types) so you can relax your hand/wrist. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Yes, the bar ends are standard 7/8" diameter. The switch clusters and top plastics cover all of the other usable space on the handlebars, so the bar ends or the original mirror mounts are the only useful locations for add-ons. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
How to painful to watch, there is a simple method with a short length of 3/4'' x 1.5 " ( 20mm) copper tube, a washer, a bolt with a nut along its thread. Screw the bolt in a few threads, and the insert will pull out thru the copper spacer. Just need to think about :)
Hindsight is always 20/20. There were no other Super Cub owners or customizers when I made these videos back in 2019. This was the first registered Cub in Texas, and the service manual wasn't available until several months later. The easiest method that I found (later) was to use the original bar-end screw: remove the bar end, thread the screw back in about 1/4", grab it with a pair of pliers, and whack the pliers outward with a hammer. This destroys the retaining clip, but I wasn't reusing them anyway. --QM
That sounds like a good solution if it doesn't tear up the rubber dampeners behind the spring collar (assuming that you plan to reuse the inner weight assembly). That method will certainly destroy the locking collar, so it's a one-way operation. In retrospect, I didn't need the collar after my mod because I removed them anyway. Have you done this on one of your Honda's? I'll have to give that a try on my next bike, for sure! --QM
@@nvq Sweet! I'll definitely add that to my bag of tricks for the next go-around. I had a similar problem with my CB500X and CB500F, but those locking tabs are much thicker/stronger... not sure if I could convince them out like that or not. Thx again for the tip! --QM
I used longer 10x1.25mm bolts to secure my RAM ball mounts in the place of the mirrors. If you just want plugs/fillers for the original mirror holes, then you can get something like this: amzn.to/3e53DAO . Cheers! 👍 --QM
Thanks for the insight. I just purchased bar-ends today along with a new rear tire. Honda shop had stock IRC on the rack. Not quite to wear bars but very close, 4960mi. Your vid was very helpful.
Thanks for making such a great video. I bought a 2020 Super Cub and I couldn't see what was behind me which is very dangerous, so I ordered the same mirror that you installed. I love your videos.
Thanks for the feedback, Robert, and congrats on our new Super Cub! Those OEM mirrors were just rubbish... and they were a real safety hazard. The CRG's are a little bit lower and can take some time to get accustomed to looking down, but that field of view just can't be beat! I LOVE these mirrors... they are installed on 4 of my bikes right now, and soon to be a 5th! Cheers! 👍 --QM
Shop manual only instruct to depress top clip, NO NO, there are 2. I used screw driver and needle nose to compress exposed retainer ends. Some twisting worked bar weight free. Mirrors I bought look nice but are too small and non-foldable. CRG Hindsight Lane Split are being shipped today. Plastic mount plug caps for Eigo mirrors make perfect stock mirror receiver covers. Look nice.
Just did this today on my Cub. I did almost exactly what you did, a pair of angled pliers, but I used a pair of needle nose Vise Grips to hold the weight in place after I got the first clip pressed in, that left both hands free to work on the bottom one, then it slid right out with no problem :D
It's nice because the retaining clip is removable, so, in theory you should be able to reuse the weight without the bar end. I'm going to try it "because I can"!
Congrats on your Super Cub and bar-end mirrors! I figured out a faster way to remove the bar weights after a few tries on other bikes:
- remove the end weight and then screw the bolt back in about 1/2"
- grab the screw with a pair of channel-lock pliers or vice-grips
- use a hammer to strike the pliers outward (away from the bike)
This will bend/break the little tabs from the ends of the bar weight clips, but they aren't going to be reused again anyway. Remove the clips from the end of the weights and then thread the bar weight onto the end of the bar-end adapter's screw. This worked perfectly for my Cub. You can see the process in a follow-up video here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard haha, taking a hammer to my bike would give me great anxiety.
Also, the mounting pegs for the OE mirrors are standard RH threads. It's the mirrors that are LH thread. It's annoying because you can't use the mounting pegs for anything. I had to get some new hardware to keep my windshield mounted without the mirrors in place. I can't for the life of me understand why they'd make the mirror stems LH, but the mounts are RH.
Serial watching the vids. One thing this series made me realize: a lot of these mods are impractical to consider if you're a city owner of the Cub, with no working space other than a sidewalk! Also, Honda seemed to purposely engineer the bike with the firm intention to make a lot of this work pretty awkward.
Most mass-produced vehicles are that way now... not easy to work on by the end-user or owner. My buddy, Adrian, had similar difficulties installing the CRG's on his Cub, so we talked about it and I gave him an alternate method: remove the end weight, screw the bolt back in about 1/2", clamp onto the bolt/screw with a pair of Vice-grips or channel-lock pliers, and then hit the pliers with a hammer to force the spring clip out. He said it worked on the first try and only took about 30 seconds per side. I didn't have the benefit of any hindsight when I made this video, so it was an expedition... now that it's been done multiple times, it's much easier.
As for the Cub's serviceability, I'll say that it's definitely harder than the older Cub's and Passports. The new plastics and highly-complex leg shield fitting make simple tasks of yesteryear exceedingly difficult. You can watch my partial teardown video here for a taste of that chaos: ua-cam.com/video/k1ri2ZEX9JI/v-deo.html . Cheers! 👍 --QM
Thanks for the video, I am buying these mirrors. I guess when I get old I might have to get one of these cute little scooters but I aint there yet>
The patience of a saint.
The bar end weights are a very similar design to those on my Royal Enfield GT 650cc. I got mine out by using a slide hammer. That works OK but it is a bit brutal. Vice grips with a 3/16" diameter rod welded to each jaw with 1/8" projecting beyond each jaw face would probably be a better solution.
I was trying to get the bar weights out with the least amount of damage to the parts. In retrospect, I probably should have just removed the grips entirely, but I didn't want to destroy them in the process. I was working without the benefit of a shop manual or exploded diagrams, so I was flying blind. Now that I've seen the inner workings, it wouldn't be as difficult to do it again. 😉👍 --QM
I got the cheap Chinese knock off CRG mirrors, they are not to bad. I pulled the bar ends out a little but and attached them there. They fit pretty good! It gives you the best of both worlds, a mirror and no vibration!
Once again, Thank you! Very helpful
Thanks for the feedback! 😉👍 --QM
An air compressor sprayer and a quick blast under the rubber and it floats right off. Ask any bicycle shop and they can demo it.
Yep, that's an easy trick. I didn't want to remove the grips completely because Honda glues these on with rubber cement.
The updated procedure (trick) to removing the inner bar weights is actually much simpler: use the original bar-end screw, a pair of pliers, and a hammer as a makeshift slide-hammer to whack out the clips! The retaining clip is damaged in the process, but I'm not reusing that clip anyway: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The best way to remove rubber hand grips like that is to pry up the very end of the grip and squirt some soapy water between the handle and grip. Start twisting the grip and the soapy water will penetrate and act as a lubricant to slide the grip off.
or maybe squirt WD40 ....
Just installed a $16 pair of the "Chinesium" variety. I used opposing 3mm flat bladed screwdrivers to actuate the clips with only minimal swearing. Had to be careful on the right side as I didn't want to break the throttle sleeve.
Much appreciation to you for the videos. Probably saved me an hour of misery.
@@QuasiMotard Let's stay in touch. I'm going in the same direction as you, setting the bike up for long distance travel. I plan to sign up for the 2020 Scooter Cannonball but will be doing several weeks of touring this fall. Plan is to hit a good number of National Parks and possibly do the Continental Divide ride as well.
@@rickgermain7802 Absolutely! That sounds like a fantastic plan, sir! I don't know if I can take too much time off of work and family, but I certainly plan to get out for several week-long journeys and lots of weekend motocamping. You can reach me at my Gmail account anytime: quasimotard@gmail.com --QM
Beautiful Honda Super Cub C125, good video, I watch a few episodes, I'm impressed by your work :) I greet straight from Poland ! :)
Greetings from Texas! Thank you for the feedback and the compliment! I think that your Super Cub in EU/Poland looks much better than the USA model... much better indicators and tail light assemblies. --QM
you welcome :) Yes, in Poland the available Honda version of Super Cub C125 has different rear light and direction, the same as in the version in Japan, only there is no original rear carrier, you have to buy yourself and probably not the original as in Japan ... Regards !
Got my c125 2 weeks back and already racked 350mi on it. I love it and can't wait to add aftermarket parts to really make it my own. Thank you so much for posting these videos. This is my first bike so these are incredibly helpful for when I hit the shop. I do have a question. I am looking to add some parts to my bike such as a new suspension. Seems the ones I want are only available from WeBike Japan and I am wondering how compatible they are to the US model. Thanks again for the awesome channel!
Congrats on your new Super Cub, and thx for the feedback! All of the new Super Cub parts (C125) should be interchangeable across the markets, so purchasing from the foreign suppliers shouldn't be any problem. I have purchased several items for my Cub from overseas because we don't have any established aftermarket for the Cub here in the USA... yet. Hopefully the Cub will become popular enough in the USA so resellers will stock aftermarket parts. Cheers, and keep pounding out those miles (smiles)! I already have over 2.2K on mine and the numbers are steadily climbing. 😉👍 --QM
I rode for 1yr with these mirrors and took them off. The mirror riser extender is a MUCH better solution which gives you complete rear view at eye level. Don't waste your money on bar end mirrors..
Great video thank you
Thanks for the feedback! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for sharing,could you please show me the way to do with the other side,thanks.
What’s your opinion... if you didn’t buy the right hand mirror would you have!! You said something about one mirror in on of the Video’s! every time i Ride this bike what a kick!!!
I have a couple of commute vlogs on the Cub that I haven't edited or uploaded yet. I finally decided that I wanted the mirror on the right side because I kept looking over there out of motor memory. There were a couple of occasions when I looked back and there was a car just over my shoulder in my blind spot on the right side (my torso blocked the view in the left mirror).
With both CRG's on this thing, you can see everything all the way around behind you, it's fantastic. I am really enjoying the cub so far, and the fuel mileage is astonishing. My last couple of tanks have been over 140 MPG! --QM
did you do a video on using the stock bar weights with the bar end mirrors? I'm looking at these mirrors but really don't want more vibration -- thanks
Yes, the handlebar vibration was noticeable, so I remounted the mirrors again with the inner weights attached. You can see that procedure here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard thanks -- big help!
I wonder if you used i thin sheet of stiff plastic, like a flexible cutting board, and used it as a shim would help sliding the bar piece out??
The inner bar weight is held in place by a spring clip that has two small pins that interlock with indentations in the handlebars. The only "easy" way to depress both of those pins at the same time is to remove the grips. Unfortunately, Honda secures the OEM grips with rubber cement, so they don't like to come off gracefully. 😉👍 --QM
Great videos 👍🏻
Thx for the feedback! It really helps to know if the videos are useful, or just blather. 👍 --QM
I believe that I’m getting one like yours I just got rear ended on my 2018 Honda Grom I only have 605 miles it has frame damage. If the insurance totals the bike the c125 that’s on my list
@@aquaazul69 Eww... sorry to hear about your mishap. Hopefully your frame fared better than the bike did. I haven;t owned a Grom personally, but I have ridden them many times. I prefer the Cub's feel and aesthetics much better over the Grom. The larger wheels certainly help it to handle and ride better. --QM
Looks great! Do you have any recommendation on how to move/slide the left side grip a bit further to the right? For whatever reason there is a 1” space between the edge of the grip and where it contacts the headlight switch area. I haven’t had any luck, thinking of just cutting it and buying a new grip if i can order an oem one.
That's odd... my bike doesn't have any gap between the grip and switch assembly. If it is an OEM grip, then it's probably glued to the handlebars with rubber cement. You can use a thin flat-head screwdriver to work all the way around the grip (and full-depth, from end to end) to break up that glue and re-position the grip to be flush with the switch assembly. If that doesn't work, replacing the grip might be your only option... just use a box knife or razor blade to cut the OEM grip lengthwise to remove it from the bars.
Alternatively, if this is a new Super Cub, then I would take it back to the dealer and ask them to figure it out... the bike shouldn't have been delivered that way. --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks! Likely an assembly error/not enough glue i'm thinking. I'm wondering if it somehow got shifted during transport from the dealer. Never had this happen on a bike, but the OEM part/replacement grip was $2.50 + tax so I just ended up ordering it. Going to go that route vs. the dealer. Don't want to miss out on any prime riding time!
Is there a reason why one could not simply leave the damper in the handle bar, and screw the black round bar end mirror adapter to it using a stainless bolt/screw that had the same thread pitch as the factory bar end?
Yes, that's what I eventually did a few weeks later. The only caveat is that you still have to remove inner weight and take off the locking ring/collar because it doesn't sit deep enough to allow the bar-end adapter to fit into the bar. The screw for the bar-end only gives a few threads to grab the weight, but it works. I added a few turns of electrical tape on the joint to keep them from separating too easily. --QM
@@QuasiMotard Gotchya, thanks! My thought was at 1:08, some small diameter washers (matching ID/OD as inside the hand grip) could be stacked on to the the of the inner bar until the washers sat flush with the end of the hand grip. Then you could just the the factory bar end screw to attach the mirror adapter; just like you were reinstalling the factory bar end.
@@rerock826 The original bar ends are a much larger diameter than the 7/8" needed for the CRG mirrors, and the odd thing is that they rotate freely even when tightened down. The inner weight is damped by rubber collars and spins freely within the bars, so that wouldn't make a good perch/base for the mirrors. Here is a good breakdown of how I reinstalled both of the CRG's and reused the OEM inner bar weight to reduce the bar vibrations: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html
--QM
I just left the stock ones and used couple of washers
How did you use the washers? Did you put them under the OEM mirrors to raise them up? --QM
QuasiMotard yes I used like 3 on the left and 4 on the right on my Honda Grom but i believe that are the same
@@aquaazul69 Excellent, thanks for the tip! That could be useful to other Cub owners that don't want to go to the expensive route of replacing the mirrors. --QM
Hi, did you do a video for the throttle side for the mirror?
Yes, I needed to replace a broken CRG mirror on the right side after my son wrecked the Cub. I showed the process here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . The easier way to remove the factory inner bar weights is the following:
- remove the outer end weight and screw
- reinstall the screw about 1/4" into the threaded inner weight
- grab the screw with a pair of pliers sideways (perpendicular), and strike outward on the pliers with a hammer
The little clips that secure the inner weights will pop loose and the weights slide out of the handlebars easily. The clips might be damaged in the process, but you won't need those if you are using bar-end adapters and/or pushing those factory weights further into the handlebars (clips wouldn't line up with the original holes). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I'm also from Houston...this and the Ryker are the 2 bikes on looking to buy...which one is more fun to ride...this or the Can Am Ryker?
Hmm... that's a hard question to answer because each one is a completely different riding style and each has different qualities/expectations. The Cub is definitely the winner on the cool and retro factors, but it's not as capable overall as the Ryker (e.g. commuting, long-distance rides, etc). The Ryker is certainly a conversation starter (just like the Cub), but I still have my complaints and reservations about its handling characteristics... the high-speed stability still leaves much to be desired and it gets very tiring/annoying to fight it to stay in a single lane over long rides.
If you're a seasoned 2-wheel rider and you're currently riding motorcycle, then adjusting to the Ryker can be a little bit of a learning curve. The Cub also takes a little bit of re-learning how to shift it smoothly (slow release with the foot instead of fingers on a clutch, timing is different). Both of them are a blast to ride as long as you have clear expectations of what they can (or can't) do well. You can email me at quasimotard@gmail.com and we could set up a meet somewhere so you can get a look at both of them in person. --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks for the info!
Can you lane split in Texas? Some places in country you can and some you can’t!
No, lane-splitting is not legal in Texas. The only state that I know that it's legal for certain is California. Many riders here will do it anyway in heavy traffic just to avoid overheating or being rear-ended by other traffic. I will ride the shoulder sometimes in extreme circumstances, but I typically don't split lanes here because the cagers are very aggressive and unpredictable (e.g. rapid lane changes without signaling, intentionally swerving to block your path, opening car/truck doors to block, etc). --QM
QuasiMotard thanks for the reply!
where did you get this do you have a link of it
You can find the product links in the video description. 😉👍 --QM
Love your cub video's. I have a Question, what's de handle on the richt handle bar that moves with the throttle?
Thanks for the feedback! That black plastic lever is a Go Cruise throttle lock (cruise control): amzn.to/3P11KXD . It's a simple tension lock that rests against the front brake lever to hold the throttle in a certain position.
To set it, you roll open the throttle to a desired position and then press down on the lever with your index finger. To cancel the cruise setting, you simply roll the throttle down against the resistance of the lock lever. It's a real sanity saver on long road trips. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
What size is that end thread? I need to go to the HW store and grab that bolt to use as a grip...
Hrm... Looks like it's easier to just remove the whole grip first ua-cam.com/video/U_ufQ3IW72o/v-deo.html
Wait... so what is the point of the weighted bar ends inside since you don't put it back? Does it make that much difference?
If I recall correctly, it's a M5x1.0mm pitch. You can pull one end weight and use that screw to match it at the hardware store. I think that the screws that came with the CRG bar-end adapters were 35mm long. --QM
@@torokun YES... you NEED the inner weights or the bars will be very buzzy. I went back into my bars a few days after this video and posted an update here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . The threads on the CRG bolt are just long enough to screw into the inner bar weight. I wrapped a couple of turns of electrical tape around the junction just so they wouldn't vibrate apart inside the handlebar tubes. 😉👍 --QM
Hello, Can't I just leave the original bar weights and boult the mirror on? thinking of buying the oberon streetfighter mirros
No, unfortunately, that won't work. The outer bar weights are secured to the inner weight, which is suspended by rubber bushings. So the exposed end cap is free to rotate. A new bar-end that secures to the inner diameter of the handlebar is needed to provide a secure mounting point for the bar-end mirrors. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard thx. when the bar weights were removed, do you have any issues with vibrations?
Yes, the handlebar vibration was noticeable, so I remounted the mirrors again with the inner weights. You can see that procedure here: ua-cam.com/video/3h0DozndoJU/v-deo.html . Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
What is the “thing “ on the throttle?
That is the GoCruise throttle lock (cruise control): amzn.to/2VUkEsb . I have these cruise controls on most of my bikes and scooters for highway & touring duty. It just clips over the grip and you rotate it with your index finger to lock the throttle position against the front brake lever. They work extremely well, and they allow you to completely remove your hand from the throttle (unlike the palm rest types) so you can relax your hand/wrist. Cheers! 👍 --QM
are the handlebars 7/8”?
Yes, the bar ends are standard 7/8" diameter. The switch clusters and top plastics cover all of the other usable space on the handlebars, so the bar ends or the original mirror mounts are the only useful locations for add-ons. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
How to painful to watch, there is a simple method with a short length of 3/4'' x 1.5 " ( 20mm) copper tube, a washer, a bolt with a nut along its thread. Screw the bolt in a few threads, and the insert will pull out thru the copper spacer. Just need to think about :)
Hindsight is always 20/20. There were no other Super Cub owners or customizers when I made these videos back in 2019. This was the first registered Cub in Texas, and the service manual wasn't available until several months later.
The easiest method that I found (later) was to use the original bar-end screw: remove the bar end, thread the screw back in about 1/4", grab it with a pair of pliers, and whack the pliers outward with a hammer. This destroys the retaining clip, but I wasn't reusing them anyway. --QM
Don't have to press anything, just screw the bolt/screw in halfway then grab from side with pliers then take a hammer and tap them out. 30 secs
That sounds like a good solution if it doesn't tear up the rubber dampeners behind the spring collar (assuming that you plan to reuse the inner weight assembly). That method will certainly destroy the locking collar, so it's a one-way operation. In retrospect, I didn't need the collar after my mod because I removed them anyway. Have you done this on one of your Honda's? I'll have to give that a try on my next bike, for sure! --QM
@@QuasiMotard Yes it will pop right out and funny enough it didn't ruin it, I reinstalled it to see if it would go back in correctly.
@@nvq Sweet! I'll definitely add that to my bag of tricks for the next go-around. I had a similar problem with my CB500X and CB500F, but those locking tabs are much thicker/stronger... not sure if I could convince them out like that or not. Thx again for the tip! --QM
Thanks did you plug the old holes where the stock mirrors was if so what’s the part number???
I used longer 10x1.25mm bolts to secure my RAM ball mounts in the place of the mirrors. If you just want plugs/fillers for the original mirror holes, then you can get something like this: amzn.to/3e53DAO . Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard aloha from Maui thanks alot
@@JahR96732 Howdy! (that's "aloha" in Texan 🤣) Thanks for watching! 👍 --QM