Dumpster CPU Upgrade on Shipping PC
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- Опубліковано 8 тра 2024
- Dumpster CPU Upgrade on Shipping PC
Intel G3220 to i5 4950
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#ElectronicsCreators #Dumpster #Intel - Наука та технологія
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The flatflex that says "ATTENTION40 PIN" is a lvds connector for 15" screens !
I'm pretty sure, these motherboards are also used in industrial PC's and all in one's hence the lvds connector on the board.
Dave working on computers is like watching a Plumber Paint. Sure the room ends up some color, but ohh man the edges...
So how would the result be different if a "pro" did this?
It works fine. No worries mate
8:30 Best part of the video, especially your anticipation of us all complaining. Spot-on. Hilarious.
Oh no - the thermalpaste application is completely wrong. You have to wait until full moon. Then apply 11 dots and 4 squares of paste over a period of at least 7 hours. And of course dont forget to squint and hold the tongue in the right angle during the process.
I hope you are talking about imperial dots and not metric ones?
ROFL!!
Everyone knows how critical the thermal paste application is! Dave is such a noob!
You haven't put enough on until it's squeezing out everywhere.
You screwed up by forgetting the bearded virgins😆
your shipping computer is better than my main pc
That CPU is better off in a PC that you use daily than in a landfill somewhere. It's still a perfectly fine CPU, it's not like you're playing the latest AAA game releases or doing simulation work on it. Older CPUs still have tons of life in them, I even built my first home server out of a system with a 4th gen Intel CPU.
And the HS is fine not crunching numbers all day and even then it throttles anyway
I've still got 2nd and 3rd gen i5's that I use regularly. They work perfectly fine with an SSD upgrade to speed up overall response.
An 8th Gen micro Dell PC is my newest machine.
@@volvo09 SSDs are one of the best upgrades to older PCs
Still running an i7 3770k in my main PC, roughly 11 years from new.
Great show!
The bigger question is if the external PSU can handle this at full load. If it does not you risk it shutting down at random when the CPU is loaded. try running prime95 stress test
Why? He's only doing some shipping with it.
@@MrThomashorst Because if for some reason that CPU decides to go full throttle (Windows update, some web page) and the PSU can't keep up, the voltages will go below min spec and the PC will turn off. You don't want instability in an appliance PC like that, the whole point this is a "shipping PC" is because it must work reliably because it's controlling the printers
This model could be bought with a 4th gen i7 and came with the same power supply. Google "ProBox23 specifications". Though reviews for it say it comes with a custom cooler which this one clearly doesn't and that custom cooler only supports 65w TDP anyway.
Edit: Saw a photo of this custom cooler and it is the one in the video....looks like a regular intel one to me lol. Anyway as per MSI's documentation this CPU isn't supported at least from a cooling perspective but 65W i7's from the same family are.
There is a default hidden powerplan setting with which you can disable the Turbo Boost, search for "Processor performance boost mode" option.
Next time to remove heatsink, turn this black things with arrows on it...
Goodram drives are made by Wilk Elektronik in Poland. BTW I have their RAM modules, after 12 years they still work like a new one.
My previous Corsair ram sticks had like 22 years factory warranty.
I remember Wilk Elektronik's advertisements from the 1990s in the "Radioelektronik" magazine. They concerned the sale of various RAM chips. Today it is the only manufacturer of RAM modules in Europe.
I have some tiny HP prodesks that easily handle a normal processor. I have had no issues with any of them. I was really surprised a how snappy fast these little systems are.
There are some pastes (the very thick/dry ones) out there where you can get a couple °C when doing the flat-scraping-thing-method.
Much more important is that you put the "bare" amount of paste onto the heatspreader (or distribute the excess by twisting the heatsink while pressing it down).
But for these couple of watts I think everything is fine as long as it transfers the heat😂
EEVblog store just got the Prime upgrade
Good thing I tested all the popular thermal paste application methods and found absolutely no difference within the margin of error. MX-4 is one of the better TIMs BTW! Great performance per cost.
Arctic makes long lasting pastes (lasts 10 years) but I remember reading MX-4 was discontinued and Arctic said MX-5 has issues so to switch to MX-6 as they aren't making MX-5 anymore as well. (You can still buy them because they are either old stock or fake)
Or, you can try Honeywell phase change TIMs as they are usually "automotive grade" as in 10 to 20 years. Just be careful as you either need to cure them yourself or buy pre-cured ones though pre-cured ones can't be stored for long if you bought more for spares.
My 4590, to do internet on my old/non-smart TV, uses about 39W.
Open HW Monitor has a small configurable widget you can leave in the corner of your screen that can display temps, etc, at all times, ie, you can see when your paste is drying out - lol -.
You got a message about the memory because the memory controller is on the CPU chip. You probably want to make sure the memory timings are set correctly. The (BIOS) can read this from the SPD (serial presence detect) chip although they call it XMP now. It stores the correct clock frequency and timings for the memory module.
these coolers are also there with a copper puck on the bottom for higher wattage models but should still be fine with this
No worries mate. Free upgrade to a banger PC. All good.
Intel heatsinks from that era were all the same except Core i7s were sold with heatsinks with a copper base. Otherwise same size.
I replaced Celeron-1800 in some mini-desktop with P4-2400 and was happy with it's speed until it shut down and one of the MOSFETs near CPU got shorted and hot as hell, I even fried my finger when touched it. It was not intended to run this power.
If you're playing along at home and ordering a processor. Get a Xeon E3 1226v3 (If you need graphics), or a Xeon 1240 or 1241V3 if you have a GPU or don't need the iGPU. They have nice features like 8 threads, more L3 Cache (E3 123x and up). The xxx5 and xxx6 are the ones with GPU. 1241 is a really good value, its basically as far as I can tell a 1270 as far as clocks. I had a Z97 board that would run it at almost 4Ghz all cores too.
Nice to see the pea method for applying thermal paste, may not give the best result but it is the easiest way and who cares that it runs 1 degree hotter.
get over it man, its just lazy.
Besides, you risk hotspots with it.
Just do a thin even layer across the whole top.
The motherboard form factor is a variant of the Mini-ITX that was known as a "Thin Mini-ITX" motherboard. There are a few characteristic differences between the Thin Mini-ITX and the regular Mini-ITX motherboards.
One easily noticeable difference is that the Thin version is configured to use an external power supply that is essentially a laptop power brick rather than a more conventional desktop power supply with a 24 pin ATX style power connector. Another difference is that the Thin Mini-ITX boards locate their CPUs further to the left (if the board is laid flat and you are looking at it from the front) and use laptop memory that lays flat against the motherboard rather than desktop memory that is upright.
The Thin Mini-ITX boards also incorporate LVDS and some eDP support for use in "all in one" type systems. Those connectors on yours are the bright red connectors in the front right corner.
One limitation of many of these boards is that they are limited to CPUs with TDPs of no more than 65 watts. In case you might be wondering, that Pentium G3220 that came in the system happens to have a TDP of 54 watts. The i5-4590 you chose is rated at 84 watts TDP, but it looks like it'll be fine anyway. You may want to keep an eye on the processor temperatures for a while when you have the processor under load to make sure the CPU cooler is up to the job of cooling the hotter chip. I doubt the shipping software will load up the CPU all that much for more than very short bursts, though so it's likely to be just fine.
I do this type of "hardware-hacking" a lot;
It gives a 2nd or even a 3rd live to an older computer by a relative simple replacement-upgrade of the CPU.
Even older NAS-machines and Servers can often be cpu-upgraded.
And such CPU's do not have to cost a ton anymore (as they used to), it is just a matter of finding one.
So, save your old CPU, take out the CPU's, memory and powersupplies, safe them from the landfills.
In fact, consider that old PC, maybe you can repurpose it as a download-machine, start playing around with Linux, start some project that you do not need a top-of-the-art expensive pc. Have enjoyment that an older pc can still have value to you.
And do not forget, those older pc's can sometimes be way sturdier than their modern-day counterparts!
I gave a mate my old 1150 system it has a I5 4460, he still plays games on it but it runs .2 ghz faster than it should im lucky when it comes to getting good binned cpu's.
I was laughing since I just used a leaf blower to clean out my fridge and old computers too!
Look at your memory, it does affect speed and your bios and cpuz both read 1 stick dual channel
3:10 I'm surprised the north/south/whatever-bridge has a heatsink. My Dell PCs from this era all just have a bare chip with no sinking (that gets 45-50C).
the psu for that system seems to be 65 watts and that cpu can use up to 84
it too bad you don't have a Intel i7-4770 CPU. It would fit in that same socket and uses the same power as the Intel i5-4590 but faster.
I don't think he's trying to compete with Amazon Prime for shipping efficiency.
That cooler is too small if you intend to run prime 95.
Everything else looks good.
I would set short and long power intervals to max if you want the beat office speed out of it.
Will let it turbo for a bit longer.
I'm totoally running Prime 95 all day long, it's my favourite game.
Nothing like heating up the shipping area with Prime95
8:00 That's what she said.
100% lol
BIOS limited obviously, but if TDP is an issue you can both totally disable the TurboBoost and/or manually set the clock down effectively limiting the base speed. Not sure on 4th gen, but on 2nd and 3rd it makes some difference in terms of thermals. And for that PC, you're probably benefiting more from the extra cores/threads/cache than the "top speed".
Free faster shipping then ;P
that is ecological friendly. i realy love to see sh.t like this!
Nice job.
Dumbster dive lite 💪
Huh? That CPU consumes more electricity than his previous one and than comparable current ones.
Yes indeed it,s also mutch faster and if you can use is for 2 more yeas is less e-washe power can be created without mutch washed (nuclear-power).
E-waste still a problem and all the harmful effects of creating a new pc don't compare to the electricity
@@ottoplichters Are you saying that nuclear waste is less harmful than e-waste?
Nuclear washed is recyclable plutonium is harder to rerecycel .
For uranium and thorium is recycling a option .
thorium by product of mining Rare Earth Minerals and is already treated as nuclear waste .
@@ottoplichters There aren't any thorium reactors producing electricity in the entire world.
Dave im about to retire my server that has a 4590 the board still works except for one USB port i plan to keep the board thogh incase the new board i do get later this year has a fault in it
2:30 we all could do with a good one lol
Those intel stock coolers are just generally garbage quality, it's normal to struggle with the pins, at least they didn't break.
As for the cooler, it should be completely fine, at worst the cpu will throttle a bit, but considering your usecase it will not be under any serious load anyway.
I have had pc's where the intel stock cooler decided to fall off and it still ran, just rather slow.
Dave agree, with the cooling, also i noticed the USB1 is usb3 but with usb2 connected.
Also with you giving the blow jobs to the computers when the A,I take over they will thank you for it.
Take care brother.
Also upgrading ram could help as Windows is a hog, but cpu was a great start especially for the huge price you paid....... Sata drive clean might be a worth it as windows still uses page file just the windows disc clean up make sure you select system files as those are old updates that windows does not delete..
Those MSI SFF pc are not bad at all, and i do believe its miniITX or MicroITX
If it's still slow, might be that small drive too.
I have a hp with a i5 569s in a few more up
I better check the thermal paste on this 11 year old PC now.
For what you are doing with the computer that cooler will be fine. If you wanted to game on it or get performance out of it, then sure a better cooler would be ideal.
I'd turn the target temp for the fan curve down to 80 or 85 if it was me, 100 is too hot for my liking.
"Assembled in UK". I hope you have a fire extinguisher nearby.
I don't really see any problem with this honestly list of the issues that people would complain about are very power-related that's not a high enough power draw do matter what he think what fan even like it yeah that pc is so passive that's fine there are quad core laptops that have more powerful CPUs and about that same size of cooler roughly it's a little bit smaller itll just restrict power they have heat sensors
Looks like you have Windows 10 installed in BIOD mode, and not UEFI mode.
trap for young players... check the motherboard specs AND bios can accept the upgraded CPU before you take it apart!..not all boards can take the cpu even if its the correct socket... and alot of the time you need a bios update for newer cpus... id suggest upgrading bios FIRST!... then check the supported CPU list for the motherboard via its manufacturer's website...
Or just whack it in and see if it works.
@@EEVblog2 been there done that... its not a good idea when youre working on PC hardware on the daily... complete waste of time... ya better off checking first before doing anything...it takes all of 5mins... where it takes like half hour to tear down the system, replace the cpu and then rebuild it.... only for it to not work and require you to tear it down again just to put the original CPU in, and update the bios....wasting another hour in the process... ... great if ya paid by the hour... but not when ya paid by the job!
@@WacKEDmaN Dave has all the time in the world.
@@Okurka. Dave does...sure... thats why i said "trap for young players"... not everyone is Dave!
I'd say that a bios update may be required if the cpu came out some time after that mobo was produced. Edit add-on: I might do a bios update right when I get a new pc put together, but after that I tend to leave it alone. These days you might mess up the secure boot, have to turn on legacy mode, and watch your TPMs. That has burned me before.
The worry about TDP is that the VRMs might get overloaded and blow, as the new CPU has turboboost and might actually reach that TDP limit while thermals are ok.
I've had mixed experience:
- a Dell OEM system with i3, I broke it with an i7 (65W TDP -> 80+W TDP) during stress test (no overclocking involved)
- HP Microserver Gen8 I replaced G1620T (35W) with a Xeon v2 (65/77W TDP) - still works, but I don't recall if I did a stress test, as I use it as a backup NAS and just wanted full HDD encryption performance.
Wow, no heatsink compound comments yet. I'm a "thin coating over the top" guy myself. I think that a dab in the middle would probably end up close to the same thing. No worries.
I know this was a free upgrade but maybe consider going with a newer platform? I’ve been looking at mini pc’s with integrated N100 processor (x86 architecture, 4 cores) with 8gigs of ram and 256 ssd for around 150 usd! It only consumes like 30 watts on full load!
Dude, he has a freakin' heated pool.
I spat wine all over my monitor @2:31
You must be French.
@@Okurka. Australian
We make better wine than the frogs
@@jaromanda Ah, descendant of criminals.
Haters will hate. Potatoes will potate.
or course its a ryobi :P
Passmark is terrible for CPU comparisons.
Every benchmark is using different cpu instructions. So it depends how You are using computer. Using opensource (GNU Linux) You can use better optimizations for different CPUs.
I found that the CPU mark value is indeed useless, but the single thread rating gives a very good comparison of the raw processor speed. Of course then you need to evaluate the number of cores, cache sizes, TDP etc. according to what is important for you. And almost all of this data is listed at Passmark.
@@kralg maybe it use very basic cpu instructions.
That's a cute little pc and I would never buy new these days. I wonder if you can add another drive for a RAID 1 setup as a backup.
Has 2 SATA sockets on the board, and also internal USB headers, so you can put a second drive in there, and the USB headers can be abused to get some extra memory in to have a boot USB drive, so the 2 drives can act as a NAS raid pair.
RAID IS NOT A BACKUP SOLUTION!
@@Okurka. Sure it is in a RAID 1 configuration, when 1 drive dies the other can take it's place. Why did you need to write that in full caps you dick?
@@Okurka. How about not shouting; You seem to take offence with people
@@TradieTrev How about not saying to use RAID 1 as a backup? I take offense with dumb ideas.
How do you cut the first part of installing the heatsink.... The irony is strong with this video.
It's a Thin Mini-ITX board.
8:00
Should've made an E for EEVblog instead of a . on the CPU 😂
dawid does tech stuff, and i think ltt blur out the TIM application becasue people whinge
People treat it like it's rocket science and "their method" is the best.
There are already comments here about "that's way too much" "you didn't spread it" "you apply it to the cooler first" "it's going to get on the VRM's" and so on...
I know why people blur it out.
You need to slather thermal paste on the heat sink, not on the CPU!!!
It's been a while, but don't you twist those cpu fan clips to release them, instead of just yanking harder?
I did twist them. Seems to be twist half turn an pull up.
I was gonna say, first thing he did was the twist! The next step is indeed just to give it a bit of a yank. During installation, they first click in and then the twist locks.
Geez, you have such a negative attitude to comments that I am sure your viewers never give. You seem to think that we all have our opinions and will voice them. Where's the Drama if we don't?
Stop saying BlowJob 😂
Miles too much of the ARKTIC Blast wankery paste. VRMs cannot swim!
Boomers and PC's